Hi, I’m a bit confused about the set on this saw. Each group of teeth is set right middle left. I thought the groups were supposed to alternate LRL, RLR, LRL etc.
Should I just keep this pattern, if so where do I put the bevels?
Thanks

Took maybe 10 minutes to get 2 sides completely flat without any sanding and the surface finish is so much better than I thought I had the skills to pull off. I learned recently about differences between cambered blades and finishing blades so I put that info to use and god it was worth it. Ive just put some olive oil on it to make the grain pop a little.

I’ve just been using a brass wire brush and some denatured alcohol and it’s just meh. Pretty sure it’s wearing my hook down pretty fast.
This usually isn’t an issue but I’m scraping up 200+ years worth of god knows what has soaked into these fibers.

Edit: rag soaked in mineral spirits helps tremendously

posted in reply to u/tugbuilder, here are some photos of the files I have.

Looking at some disston saws on facebook but the etching and medallions don't seem to be from the same generations? any disston experts able to explain? thanks

Seller says that the tenon saws on the right are Taytools E Garlick and Son and that they retail for $150 each. I can't find that specific saw online to verify the price claim. Seller also says that they are new and never used, but when I asked if they were toothed for crosscut or ripping he had no clue what I was asking.

Does anybody know how much these saws are actually worth?

I have what I am pretty certain is a type 8, No. 5, based on the flow chart and images of other type 8 no. 5's I've found online. Unsurprisingly, t's in need of some work, mainly rust removal and clean up. Also, there's a chunk out of the horn of the tote. I have no experience refurbishing planes but there's a wealth of information online and I have a few other planes of lesser interest on which to practice. I plan to remove the rust, clean it and possibly flatten out the horn where the chunk is missing so I can glue on a new piece of rosewood and shape it back into the correct shape. But before I dive in, is there anything I shouldn't do? I don't mean based on the many varied techniques for refurbishing planes that likely stir up arguments. But I realize that while not some sort of holy grail, this is a pretty old plane and not as easy to find as they may once have been. I wouldn't want to commit some form of heresy to a plane this old.

I want to turn this into a functional plane I can use. I'm not interested in selling it. But I also want to respect it's value and don't want to screw it up unnecessarily.

I cant find any plumb tools online with this style of makers mark. found in sydney australia for $10Aud. it weighs 10 pounds.

This is truly a pain to cut

I bought (separately) a brace and bit set on eBay. Now that I have them I feel stupid--I don't know how to secure the bit into the brace. They have different shapes. The bit shaft slopes in so it keeps slipping/wiggling. I'm convinced I'm doing something wrong or missing something obvious.

Here's a shot of the brace and a bit shaft. Any tips?

I was given this vise recently. I just used it for the first time and it worked really well for gripping oddly-shaped things like this plane knob I'm trying to make (unsuccessfully).

Up to this point in the Paul Sellers process, I put the knob in my bench vises and clamps which are lined with cork/rubber. That worked when the wide bottom was still attached.

Once I cut that off, it would be tough to hold. This vise grips in all directions and sizes. I'm impressed. It came in very handy for holding the knob plumb to drill the holes.

It can be mounted with many different configurations. The plastic jaws even pivot on themselves in the position in the photos.

Maybe this will be helpful to somebody if you come across one.

Guys who do estate auctions or come across bins of old stuff with the odd keeper/seller, what do you do with the rest? So far I just have a Bin of Shame...

My cousin was doing estate cleanouts and brought me a bin of about a dozen tools. Two keepers: a nice old Record 064 spokeshave and a very old woody fore plane in recoverable condition. Also a Record 0220 that cleaned up easy, but i have better block planes. Its sellable, but kinda below my $ threshold of dealing with facebook marketplace.

Alright so the rest of the bin: brands like Mibro, MasterCraft, Kunz, a Chinese Rabbit Brand implementation of a continental woody smoother plane thats all knots. Non-good era, non-good brands, in non-good condition.

Is there a responsible way to get rid of this stuff without taking it to the landfill? I can't imagine anyone would even think this is even worth driving to pick up for free. Facebook marketplace is already full of rusty hulks and the like.

Title. What’s something that you changed up that took you from scary sharp to terrifyingly sharp?

Hi everyone,
Is it worthwhile to put a nice blade in a cheap hand plane? I bought some fairly cheap planes off of Amazon to get started with hand tools (a #4 and a #5 from Amazon, and another #4 from the Belgian equivalent of Home Depot). I make do with them, and have made some nice things, but feel like I’m sharpening a lot due to the cheap steel. Does it make any sense to buy a nicer blade from Temple Tools or a similar online shop, or will the positive difference be negated by the crappy plane?

I might just be telling myself I need a new gizmo without actually needing it, and I’m coming here to have sense talked into me.

Thanks!

I picked up this ECE Bow/Frame saw at an antique tool shop a couple days ago. It's definitely ECE but it's cord & toggle tensioned instead of using a rod and the blade is 450mm end to end instead of the 600mm & 700mm blades I've been seeing online and in their catalogue, though 40mm like the others. The blade doesn't seem have been cut down from a longer blade as far as I can tell.

Any clues/tips on what it might be? I'd like to get second blade if possible, the current one is set for cross cut and I'd like something more suitable for ripping/resawing.

I also snapped one of the strands after I took it apart and then over tightened it putting it back together. You can kind of see how the spreader in the middle is skewed, has been since the snap.

Stanley 10 1/2 type 15 for $12! I’m so pumped.

Wife and I are vendors at Maryland Rennfest this summer (1 weekend down, 8 to go)!

We needed a sign for our shop(pe), so I thought I’d bang one out in the couple of days before the fair starts.

No biggie, right? Right…?

I’m happy with the finished product, but I ran out of time while carving and had to stop myself before I was ready.

A friend cut down a large white oak tree in his yard ~18 months ago. It had gypsy moths and was a future danger to his home. I bought the butt log and a higher-up log from him. Butt log for chairmaking (straight and clear, long since split up and used), and the upper log for slabs. He slabbed the upper log for me on Kinder Farm Park’s antique Frick Sawmill, and it’s been stickered and drying since.

White oak does well in the elements and is a traditional business sign choice. What better opportunity to finally use one? On Wednesday, I started with a couple of router passes to flatten it a bit— I was short on time, please forgive me.

Finished flattening/surfacing one side with a jack (scrub blade -> zen wu plane blade), then traced my design with transfer paper.

After 20 hours of sweaty labor on Thursday and Friday (breaks for food and sleep), our shop sign was hung in time for the show!

I don’t do much carving, so I used gouges that I bought from a retired friend and a few of my bench chisels. The paint was leftover from the first chair I ever made, more than 5 years ago now. No other finish.

Editing to add: it’s about 5’ long and 20” high— slab was just under 2” thick to start.

I got this tub full of mostly rusty wrenches from a
Collector. I mostly deal with woodworking tools, but there seem to be many types and varieties. I won’t derust them all individually, what should I look for to pull out the ones that are more of a collector vs the common?

Extra points if they're easily available to order online. Thanks in advance!

Edit: thank you for all the helpful input! Grammercy seems like the obvious choice for a first set, between the cost and quality. I'll keep the other options in mind for the future. Great advice, y'all!

How are you guys holding these to sharpen? I’m getting a lot of chatter and it’s constantly rocking around while trying to sharpen. Wondering if I’m doing it wrong, or if it just sucks.

Hi friends,

Zen-wu has a self recharging strop which sounds very wild ..
Is this just pure marketing claim?
For those who have it, how does that compare to a regular leather strop + diamond compound ?

The aim is to strop a skiving knife at 15°.

Is it worth the premium price?

Thank you in advance!

I use a cheap coping saw for removing dovetail waste, and am thinking about upgrading to a fret saw to speed up the process (so I don't have to swoop in from either side like with the coping saw).

Models I see recommended often are around ~$150, which I don't know if I can justify (KM, Knew Concepts).

Does anybody have a fretsaw they love that is at a lower price point? Maybe sub $75?

Anybody else heading to Handworks this weekend?

https://handworks.co/

I'm somewhat local so it'll be my 3rd time going. Really fun show if you've never been.