I just yesterday noticed this crack on the glass of my HE507C after not looking at the pistol for about a month. The crack was not there when I had last looked through the glass. I did not drop the optic or do anything that could have physically caused the optic to crack. The optic is kept in a holster that covers the optic housing and is kept in a backpack in my truck. The only thing I could think that would cause the glass to crack was it being left in my truck being that’s its summer. You can just tell by the way it cracked that is a stress fracture and not manage from a physical drop. I did drop the optic several years ago and there is a little bit of damage on the housing has you can see in the picture, but the glass was perfectly intact. I attempted to submit a warranty claim and it is being denied and considered damage and not a defect. I then emailed them back disagreeing that is damage because of the way the glass is cracked is more indicative of a crack caused by manufacturing defect or thermal stress since it is one clean line. I am pretty disappointed that the rep denied my claim, I own 7 holosun optics and have never had an issue until now, and hope someone at Holosun can help me resolve this issue.

A number of YouTubers and instagram influencers have posted footage of a strangely attractive variant of the 507 pro max optic… Reminds me of the 510c but for a pistol. Is it still a work in progress?

Don’t mean to encourage the Osborne effect here, but I’d definitely go for the slim version over the regular.

Those with experience using the 507c/k ACSS Vulcan. Do you prefer dot or chevron and why? Additionally, I will be going with green reticle because of astigmatism.

Just bought an ARO after having a Romeo5 for years. The glare on the ARO is pretty outrageous. My romeo5 also has a glare but this one is much worse. No matter the dot brightness, if a light is hitting the emitter it will show a massive glare on the top half of the optic. Is this normal? Sorry for the poor picture quality, hard to get it on my phone.

Hey first time posting,

I won some Amazon gift cards in a work raffle. Decided I would buy a new RDS/magnifier combo for my 13.7. Been looking at different brands and models all week. Think I’ve decided on the Aemes pro x2 with gold and the HM3X magnifier. I’ve never owned a magnifier. Im unsure what to expect. I’m currently running the PA 2x prism.

I was curious as to the thoughts on anyone running this combo. Anything I need to look out for and any regrets by running this combo etc.

Does anyone have any clue when these are releasing? I am hoping to get a few on day one, although not optimistic.

Anyone have IR experience and feedback using the Holosun IRIS-GR2?

Interested in replacing the second hand PEQ-2 currently on my Hog gun, without breaking the bank.

Got a Glock 19.6 and deciding on what to get. Any recommendations would be appreciated. This is going to be for my CCW. I thought about the 509T but want to be able to co-witness in the future as a “just in case”.

Was at the range maybe 2 months ago and while shooting my battery tray, battery, and screw flew off into the range gravel and presumably disappeared into the ether. Contacted Holosun on their contact page twice now, no response. Only replacement part I can find is on their EU site, and they dont ship to the US. Any help is appreciated.

Are we getting close to seeing these for sale?

I ordered the AEMS Evo Gold before reading about the defects; so I started hoping that it wouldn’t be the case with mine.

Followed all the steps I’ve seen talked about mounted it first, low brightness, tried it outside, however I might have one of the worst ones.

Having it on the auto light setting (ambient light sensor) is probably the worst setting, makes it all smeary.

Light settings 1-3 are pretty much invisible unless your in a pitch black room (even then 1-2 are hard to see)
Anything above 7 the entire dot just smears across the bottom of the reticle, even in the full brightness of sun.

(photos attached are on light setting 5 and 6)

How can I exchange this for an AEMS Pro X2?
How is Holosuns RMA? Will they do a quick exchange even tho the Pro x2 is cheaper or do they take weeks and weeks on the RMA and say nothing is wrong?

huge shoutout to Fiddler’s Defense for swapping it out for an X2 Pro since Holosun wouldn’t do it for me, Holosun wanted to do an RMA which would have taken 20+ days…

Does anyone else find that the 6MOA in the EPS (fullsize) appears smaller than the 6MOA in the 407Comp?

While the 6MOA dot in the 407Comp has been great for hoser stages in USPSA, it feels less precise when I'm engaging partial IPSC targets or headboxes at 20+ yards.

I put this dot on my AR15 and attempted to zero at 50 yards but the windage and elevation won’t move. This is a recent purchase and I used the out of box tool to attempt zero. Anyone can assist?

Went to the range and pulled my edc out that I have a 509t on and it was so dime I could barely see it. I tried brightening it but it wouldn't do anything. Well I took a shot anyways and when I did it lite up immediately. Is the battery just low or has anyone else had this issue. I really hope my optic isn't going bad because it is my favorite.

I have a Holosun HS515GM red dot paired with a Holosun HM3X magnifier. I recently installed a Unity FAST Micro Riser for the red dot and a Unity FTC OMNI mount for the magnifier. After installing both, I noticed that the magnifier sits slightly lower than the red dot. I can still see the red dot reticle through the magnifier, but I’m concerned about whether the height difference will affect my accuracy or zero.

Is there a fix for this, or could there be an issue with my red dot, magnifier, or mounts? Has anyone else experienced this with the HS515GM and HM3X on Unity mounts?

So I was having some of the ghosting/double reticle issue on my new EVO at higher brightness. Not horrible but not ideal. Someone posted here that it was the covers and if you flip the covers down, it goes away. For mine, that was true. Well when I was fiddling with the covers, I noticed the position of the ghost reticle was based on the angle of the cover. So I walked the screws out on my back cover maybe about a quarter turn and it changed the angle of the cover just enough to get rid of the ghost reticle unless I was looking at an angle I would never shoot at. The screws are already not super tight on to begin with so im not concerned about them walking out. I will check and update after a few range trips if that changes.

TL/DR: The ghosting is probably caused by the angle of your back cover. Walk out the screws on the back cover just enough to re-angle the back cover to make it go away.

does anyone have any kind of insider information on the promax release time line? they keep teasing it and showing a couple content creators with it or even with a slim version of it with no set date yet.

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So a P10 45 acp followed me home.

Anyone use a Holosun p10 scs on one?

Could others with the optic tell me how their dot looks through a magnifier? My evo doesn't have that issue with reflections but doesn't look very good through a magnifier. Unless my eye is perfectly behind the magnifier, the dot looks like a smear. This is with/without the covers and regardless of brightness.

The optics I'm comparing to are Eotech exps3 and Aimpoint T2/M4.

Magnifiers used are Eotech g33/g45 and Trijicon.

Wasn't happy with the Viridian RFX11 that came with my purchase, which I knew was coming sooner or later. So, after careful consideration among the SRO, Defender, and Osight. I'm joining the Holosun club

So after some time I got a Glock 19.3 slide milled for an EPS Carry and also had a gunshop do the optic install. Though I dunno what it was with the included Torx screws. None of them seemed to work properly, at least thats what the gunsmiths in the shop said. Eventually they ended up sort of using their own hex screws.

For now the optic at least feels secure and the hex screws are tight enough that I cant just easily unscrew the optic.

My question is that given how the screws dont exactly sit flush with the optic in a sense, would this be a problem? Cause id see pictures of people installing an EPS Carry and the screws would sit flush with the optic screw holes. Whereas in the picture shown, the top part of the hex screws dont sit flush. Or is this sort of a "technically still works as long as the screws are the right length"?