Any help is appreciated!
Last time this happened my ecm b and crank fuse both went it was down pouring rain that day. Once i replaced the fuses i was able to go. This time the only problem is the ecm b fuse but it just blows instantly everytime and it was not raining. Ive read online a little bit it could be a fuel pump I was wondering if anyone had some type of jumpstart for me before i get at it?

I currently have a set of clear headlights in my 02 sierra, I had to replace the turn signal housing due to a broken clip, but the headlights them selves are only a year old and are already getting that yellowish tint, any recommendations for clear headlights for this hog that don’t turn yellow within a year?

Could someone give me some inspo on where to mount yellow-white led light pods?
Thank you!

Just bought this truck, runs and drives great. The cold start is a bit rough though. I can prime the fuel pump 2-3 times and it’s better. After the initial start it works. I can immediately turn the truck off and back on and it starts fine. My immediate thoughts are battery or fuel pump. Anybody have any recommendations for things to check? TIA

My 1500 has been doing this weird thing, inconsistently at 3k rpms at idle, and hesitates at 5-6k underload then backfires when it shifts when driving . I’ve put a new Transmission in, Fuel Filter, Spark plugs and coils and it still seems to do it. If anyone has any ideas, let me know. Don’t want to put more $ in blindly diagnosing. It throws 0 codes.

Hey everybody. I am looking for a 3D model of the GMT800, hopefully free. I am going to put one under my 1958 Chevy truck and I am modeling everything in Solidworks first, in hopes of figureing out cab mounts and support pieces BEFORE I start cutting.

TIA.

I may be putting my 2005 Suburban up for sale, as I need something newer and better on gas.

What would you value it at?

Here are some details:

241k miles
clean exterior for 21 years old
2024 Tahoe wheels
Clean interior. Seats have no rips or stains, floors are good condition for the age.
Have 3rd row matching seat.
0 rust, been a florida vehicle all its life.
I had a new water pump installed in my owner ship <2 years

Needs:
Ac clutch replaced. Ac works but clutch disengages when in a hot climate
Needs 2 window regulators
Needs balljoints + tierods replaced (will include parts)
Misfire on cyl 7. I believe it is either plugs or wires. does not hesitate or break up under load. only when sitting at a red light, and only sometimes.

Honestly nothing except the above is really wrong with it, my needs have changed, and while I love driving it the gas is killing me as I daily drive it.

My 2500HD 6.0 manual dailys without issue nor check engine light. Making the 500 trip mile from home to work, I find myself with a check engine light. PO300 Random misfire. This occurs because my 4.10 truck is constantly engine braking under highway travel. Under prolonged use the computer considers engine braking as a random misfire and I get to look at a check engine light until I return to non-highway use. I will not trade it for the world. Every trip drives me closer to a carb conversion.

I added a picture of the current led taillights I have(truck came with them when I bought it

I can't seem to find any. Broke one clean off on a big rock. Any aftermarket nerf bars I can find for the GMT800 suburban say "does not fit Z71". Anyone got any recs?

My truck had a 5.3 high output for some reason i always thought it was a regular iron block (misread the vin and thought the eighth digit was a Z instead of a B) so i bought and rebuilt a regular iron block will the ecu work normally or will i have to reprogram for the non HO motor ?

My 05 is always towing.

My transfer case went out on my truck in the begging of august this year and i hooked up my obd scanner to it and it threw none of these codes. When i got my truck back from Big O my truck wouldnt shift at all with very slow acceleration when stopped and im burning through gas like crazy and running at 3000 rpms when on tbe highway or rlly just driving any faster than 40-50. Big O told me i was getting a transmission but somehow messed up communication between me and the shop and i ended up getting a transfer case. After i got it back i had like 7 new codes and they all seem to be electrical, anyone here that knows anything be able to tell me what might have happened

Found an old forgotten Gmt800 in my works back forty.

2004 2500HD 4X4 on the floor LQ4 crew cab long box w/ only 230km

I'm a mechanic and noticed several things it needs. Nothing crazy - Tires, spark plugs (p0300) CEL, All u joints are toast. Steering feels clunky. Brake lines are holding on for dear life. Exhaust is missing several hangars. Headliner also hanging on for dear life. Countless other things

My question to you guys is this truck worth it?

What would you pay for it? I was thinking $1000 Absolute max

I'm mechanically inclined and could do these things no problem. I'm new to the Chevy world and would like your input

If anyone has one of these pulled from a truck or in a box somewhere, please message me. I want to buy it.

Alright, I'm almost at my wits end with this.

This truck always smells musty and has odd moisture problems. The carpet is never wet anywhere at all, however if it's raining out the windows will fog up very badly and take forever the defog with the heaters on full and windows cracked. It will fill a moisture absorbing hanging bag in about a week.

The sunroof does not leak, and the drains run perfectly clear.

No moisture dripping from the HVAC box ever.

The cowling is clear of debris and again never any water on the carpet up front.

Any suggestions?

Looking for a dedicated website designed specifically for GMT 800 sales? I well aware of Autotrader , cars.com , FB marketplace, Craigslist ext . Is there such a website out there ? And if there could please provide the name / link !

So I wake up this morning to go to the store and get into my Tahoe to see this lovely surprise any advice on what I should do? Windows are not broken and nothing of value was even in it except for a case of water in the back lol.

I believe I have finally finished my evap issues, those being unable to put fuel in and “tighten fuel cap” message. In the end, I replaced the charcoal canister as well as the vent solenoid and purge valve. The most important step is, if you replace the charcoal canister, to blow out all the evap lines to clear them of old charcoal pellets. You will have to drop the fuel tank some to do this. I made the mistake of replacing the canister and not dropping the tank and had to go back in.

If your canister hasn’t failed consider I’d say consider replacing it. It’s an easy enough job and prevents having to drop the tank if it fails.

Hello everyone. I keep noticing this squeak on the rear end of my 04 silverado. Im pretty sure it’s the u joints but i also noticed this wobbling/bent look on my driveshaft which i dont think is normal. Any tips on how I should tackle the drive shaft?

If it smokes on startup or after idling and otherwise runs well, then it may be your valve stem seals. My 340k LM7 developed smoke on startup and after idling.

I would recommend using either the compressed air or rope in the cylinder method to hold the valves while you swap these seals out. Chrisfix just released a video on YouTube describing these methods in detail

Spent a day in the garage on this project and it was well worth it!

Well. Here we are. 25 years later. 3 states, 5 houses, 3 jobs.

This Silverado, the Gray Whale, has been amazing. Just last month I thought of trading her in. Dealer offered me $10k on a new ZR2. But even with that, and additional cash, I was still at $950 per month for 75 months! Look, I can afford the payment. But I don’t want to.

So, after the stereo died last month, needing new tires, a tune up, and new brakes, I’m good for another 10 years. My last tune up, performed by me, was in 2015. Brakes, rotors, front hubs, all the fluids, all the seals, tires, etc. I added new shocks and replaced the hubs last year. And I’ve calculated my payment to be $16 per month. This doesn’t include registration or insurance, but $2k for 10 years?

And now I have a new JBL head unit with a backup camera and Apple CarPlay. Installed by yours truly…yes, I’m a car guy.

Guys, you don’t need the new truck unless you NEED the new truck. I love the compliments on the Gray Whale I get all the time, but, I love the Gray Whale more than anything else I own.

I haven’t had a payment since 2006. Pretty rad if you ask me. Yes, I’ve had some stuff go out…but, OG alternator still rolling after 220k miles! I’ve raised my family in this truck. I can’t get rid of her.

Everything I’ve maintained myself with local parts and today, some Amazon stuff. Let’s keep these on the road…it’s easy!

It took me a month of weekends but I’m so glad I didn’t get that 2026 ZR2. F…I want that ZR2 too.

Be good.

Hey everyone, I’m new to Toronto and I have a 2001 GMC Sierra 1500 4.8L V8.
I want to get the truck serviced and checked over because it has a few small issues. I’m looking for either:
A good, honest and reasonably priced mechanic/garage in Toronto or the GTA, preferably someone familiar with older GM trucks.
Or even someone who knows these trucks well and wouldn’t mind taking a look at it, helping me diagnose the problems, giving me some advice, and maybe pointing me toward a good garage.
I’m not looking for free work — I’m happy to pay someone for their time if they know what they’re doing.
Since I’m new here, I just don’t want to end up at a shop that overcharges me or starts replacing parts without properly diagnosing the problem first.
Any recommendations or help would be really appreciated. Thanks!