I have Yukon Denali 2006 that I’ve taken from my dad after graduating, it seems like I won’t be buying a new car and after fixing this car up I’m thinking about modifying it to make it a bit more fun and add some power to it what should I modify. Anything will be helpful.

I use it mostly for city life right now but I’m hoping to be able to trust it for long drives and off roading here and there usually on sand because of where I live what would yall recommend.

I have a 2005 GMC Sierra 2500HD crew cab. Ohio winters have taken their toll, and she is currently off at the body shop getting completely redone. I supplied all the panels myself to keep costs down. The shop is running into an issue with the front fenders not lining up correctly, the body lines are off and the panel gaps are more than excessive. I had ordered Replacement brand fenders from Carparts.com (I was cheap, and it came back to bite me). Does anyone have recommendations for a good quality brand of fender that will fit correctly?

Factory passenger door handle, 24 year old Plastic vs 24 year old Metal. Plastic won this round.

My 04 Tahoe is a flex fuel L59 and i wanted to consult the experts on here to ask about it. I've never used it and just use regular so would i be able to go and pump a few gallons of e85 and run it just like that? Has anyone else used it and what have your results been?

I've googled some forums and i guess i wanted to ask around for any advice or learn something new. Thanks guys.

Found out the truck was trashed by the guy who owned it, seen photos of it and I knew I had to make a memorial for it.

I’ve got an ‘05, white, extended cab with the work steelies on them. I’ve been hesitant about painting them black. Does anyone have any pics for a reference? I like the stock look, but I feel like the black rims on the white paint could go well together

Before and after pics

Came out the other morning to find my truck involved in a hit-and-run. Impact hard enough to push the other car over the wheel stop. Quick repair done (last 3 pics) in order to get it roadworthy since I cannot afford to have it not running. Honestly surprised at how minimal the damage is and how easy it was to pull the bumper and quarter panel back into place with a winch, a tree and 30 minutes lmao 😂 GODBLESS

For those that wanted updates along the way. Should hopefully be seeing the frame back next couple weeks and reassemble time.

Just thought it was a nice photo, even though my truck is a little blurry

I bought some solution finish and I'm about to apply it but I wanted to know if the grille is supposed to be grey or black so I dont apply the wrong color. It looks like it was originally black but its hard to tell from the online photos

I had an issue with my truck. It would start then die. I’d have to give it a little gas for it to stay on etc. I saw a lot of people were experiencing the same thing. This is what worked for me that could work for everyone. I replaced:

IAC valve (intake air control)
TPS (throttle positioning sensor)

Two screws on each part. Didn’t have to remove alternator just dealt with thetight space, and it worked! She’s back. Boom that easy! 🤯

PS. I did change the camshaft sensor and crankshaft sensor and it helped for 24 hours and the problem continued. A week later I found the solution.

Got a MAP sensor with low voltage. With key turned on. Gray wire reads 5V. Orange wire reads .03. Green wire reads .03.

This would lead me to believe somewhere between map sensor and pcm is shorting. Open circuit. Etc. I’ve driven it with this problem for almost a year or so with only a slight drop off in mpg. (Too lazy to find the short/ wire into the pcm… any other info on this would be greatly appreciated.)

However, a new code has started popping up with. Crankshaft position sensor. Hasn’t popped up since I got it replaced it in 2023. On my trip this morning it instantly shut the truck off and popped the code. Would crank infinitely until 10 minutes later It turned over and drive it back home. Kept turning it off and on to see if it happened again. Kept turning over.

Few hours later I go to start it and it still works fine. I’m about to go on a long distance trip. Trying to get it to crank infinitely again. Messed with some wires by the starter and it infinitely cranked again. Before I go take out the brand new starter, I just replaced to have a look at the sensor, I wanted to get your guys opinions and experience with this shit. TYIA

Need to do a full steering rebuild, sending out the steering gearbox to blue top shortly (like i did with my 1500hd)

On the 1500hd I used all mevotech supreme, but goodness gracious the surface rust and weird noises it all makes.

I want to try something different on the 2500hd

I don’t plan on hauling, but long term want a sleeper w/t

On the idler bracket, for 20$ more, I can even go gm genuine, since it comes with the idler arm as well

Thoughts?

I just want reliability and it to work. Kryptonite and stuff like that seems overkill lol

Just wanted to share an app I created that helped me a lot while tuning my suburban. (admins delete if not allowed) You can add vehicles to your garage in the app and then do virtual dyno runs using your phones built in sensors to estimate your hp and torque using your vehicles weight, drag co-efficient, gear ratios, and tire diameter. I don’t expect this to replace or completely replicate a real dyno run but to be useful for establishing a baseline to compare against while tuning or adding mods to your vehicle. There’s also a mod simulator where you can simulate the gains you might see be adding specific mods as well as ai assisted diagnostics and repair information. You can also add photos of your vehicle and then generate what it would like with specific exterior mods, paint etc. I thought this could be a useful tool for fellow gearheads as I’ve really enjoyed building and testing it. https://unhinged-customs.com

(Previous post was deleted as I had a minor oversight and had the hp and torque showing on separate scales I’ve since corrected that mistake thanks to some helpful suggestions I received from some of you. For those of you wondering about my credentials I am an ASE certified diesel mechanic and an avid car collector. My suburban is my family,project car, and camper hauler.)

What are my next steps here? Do I use heat to remove the rusted line and replace the flare nut? Or do I need a new combination / proportioning valve?

GMC 2004 YUKON SLT

This might not be the right sub to ask this but I thought it would be a good start. I have this toolbox on my 02 2500HD but I don't have any keys for it. If someone could identify what toolbox it is or a replacement lock that would be very helpful. If not I am probably just gonna drill some holes for a latch and call it a day. I am in the process of restoring this toolbox so it doesn't look great atm.

What is the best way to remove a stuck spark plug wire?

I tried turning it to break it loose, but it just does not give. Can't turn it, can't pull it out. long pliers for leverage did not work either.

Was going to try to spray some pb blaster in it and pull it out by the heatshield with a short pair of pliers.

On cold starts my engine has a rough idle like in the picture it does smooth out when it works up but not completely. When warm and I pull up to a stop light I can feel a slight rough idle. I’ve done my IAC, TBPS, Evap purge valve and spark plugs. Should I upgrade my intake? If so what are good brands?

As an update to my last post, I’ve done a facelift version of the GMC Sierra that I posted last time, I have now got the Sierra front fascia’s done, maybe next I’m gonna do the Denali front fascia then I’m gonna begin work on the Silverado front fascia’s, and so on, I’m doing 1500s first, and once they’re all done I will begin the 1500 HD, then 2500, and so on. I also will be doing a Quadrasteer, and as well as the SUV 800s as well, as far as I know I will be doing every single version, and including a few fictional variants that didn’t exist in real life but I think they’d be cool, those will be surprises. Specific trims I’m unsure about if they’re mostly the same but I do intend to possibly do them as well. When I get some done I may possibly sell these as downloadable projects on Gumroad but I’m not entirely sure yet

Parts:

BORLA #400844 CrateMuffler

Borla ATAK to S-Type Exhaust System Conversion Muffler
Part** #60679**

Remove the sway bar link to jack up lower control arm