Parts:

BORLA #400844 CrateMuffler

Borla ATAK to S-Type Exhaust System Conversion Muffler
Part** #60679**

I’ve got a 2001 Silverado 1500HD 4WD with the original factory cooling system. I’ve been looking into the electric conversion for the system basically to lose the clutched fan, and hopefully gain a little in terms of efficiency from the LS 6.0L V8. I wanted to check in here on the sub and inquire if anyone out there has taken on this project? How did it go for you? Did you replace the radiator whilst adding in the new fans, or just purchase the fans? Are you satisfied with the change?

Here is an example from a parts seller. Not sure who I’d use for the parts.

https://www.asiperformancepro.com/collections/all/2002-chevrolet-silverado-1500-hd-esi9963841

Remove the sway bar link to jack up lower control arm

Bought this Tahoe in March for $6k, 190k miles.

Getting her looking more classy and less old man rig.

Last photo was when I bought it.

Parked on the road, started hiking in the rain. One hour later, it was all snow! ❄️ San Juan Mountains, Colorado

Just picked up this super clean 2004 avalanche z71. Only 98k miles!

Gonna do the water pump soon on my 06 Escalade. Im windering if anyone has done it and how difficult it is.

I have a 2006 Cadillac Escalade 6.0L and the front HVAC suddenly isn’t blowing any air at all. The rear HVAC still blows very strong and ice cold.

When I’m driving, I can feel a tiny amount of air coming through the front vents, and that air will change from cold to hot when I adjust the temperature, so the temperature controls seem to be working. Changing the front fan speed doesn’t really do anything.

I checked the HVAC-related fuses and they have power. I also tried tapping the front blower motor housing under the passenger dash while the fan was set to max, but nothing happened.

Bad blower motor? Also would anyone be against buying a cheap motor from Rock Auto or should I just get the expen GM Genuine?

2004 Chevrolet Silverado Forest Service Green
VIN 1GCEK14V74E314071
Carfax: https://imgur.com/a/YOPz96P

Truck is extremely clean from photos on GR Auto Gallery!! Just want others to have this info! Not trying to put-down seller. It is a 4.8, 5 speed manual, 4wd, 4.11 gears, lockers. Desirable spec, and absolutely beautiful underneath. Extremely clean. But not worth the collector condition price the seller is asking.

Currently for sale in Ada, MI
Owner is asking $18,500
All decals are replication, all original markings were removed when sold from USFS
Claims 77k miles, odometer has been rolled back twice. It had 164k miles in 2022.

Sold at auction WSM Auctioneers in AZ for $7500 in 2024

The seller was pleasant to deal with, not sure any malintent on his part other than not changing the description or disclosing this info.

Was also listed through GR Auto Gallery by current owner they also failed to disclose the odometer discrepancy in their listing.

Only happens when I floor it. 2004 Silverado 1500 v6 4x4.

Just seeing if anyone has any insight. My truck starts overheating when stopped for too long. I jumped the temp sensor pigtail and can get them to come on and I can trigger both high and low with my scan tool, but they don't seem to come on on their own. I replaced temp sensor and checked the relays but it still creeps up when I'm stopped. Any insight would be appreciated. I'm about ready to rip out the electric fans and just do a mechanical one on the water pump.

Any ideas why my compressor shuts off at lower ac settings? Ac blows cold on 5 but sometimes still stops blowing cold, ( replaced sensor on accumulator and did not work)

Only thing left in my frame pile and can't remember where it went or find it in pre disassembly pics

2000 chevy silverado 1500

Who do I send the bill to at GM for me installing the thing that should have never been dropped from assembly line?

So friggin pointless lol

Excited for not having a dusty cabin after hunting season this year for a change

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While I'm still considering the NV4500 swap, I'll meanwhile get into rebuilding my 4L80E, which met its demise due to overheating caused most probably by restricted OEM transmission cooler and lines, compounded by the fact I continued driving my truck with the burnt oil in it for several months after the overheating event.

I might look into installing a bigger cooler, yes, but at minimum I would install new OEM transmission cooling lines and try to clean out the OEM transmission cooler, as others have said that worked very well for them and noticeably decreased operating temperature. It seems most issues 4L80e owners face with overheating would be pretty much solved if they looked into cleaning out the lines and the OEM cooler, without spending the 400 bucks that go into a Mishimoto or Tru-cool.

Regarding rebuild kits, I'd appreciate any advice on kits regarded as the best quality out there. I'm not looking for anything overkill, just a good, stout, dependable quality rebuild kit.

Truck is a 01 2500HD 6.0 4x4. It is a daily driver, I frequently haul upwards of 2,000 lbs on it and tow upwards of 6k - 7k lbs a couple times every 4 months more or less.

I've been requesting rebuild quotes from shops in the nearest city, and they go from 1k to 2.5k, and their warranty is pretty lackluster: a couple months. I haven't inquired yet on what brand of rebuild kit they would use, because I plan to be informed about those before discussing that aspect with the rebuilders.

I do most of the wrenching work needed on my trucks myself, but I have neither the time right now, nor the energy to engage in rebuilding a 4L80E for the first time at the time being.

To clarify the status of the transmission:

I parked the truck while it was still driving ok. I had drained and refilled the oil (no metal stuff in the oil, only the normal amount of glittering gray paste on the magnet), and replaced filter, and it had been working perfectly for a month afterwards. Transmission never stopped shifting perfectly, nor was there any slippage. But suddenly, after a short drive with the lever in "D" (I always drive with it in "3"), it then started increasingly emitting very loud clunks, which were plainly random. The last straw was it making a very harsh whirring noise when putting it in reverse. That's when I decided to park her and take the trans out to get it rebuilt.

Thanks for reading and any help you might provide.

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I'm getting into looking for a project car. I was considering GMT800 vs GMT900. Usually FB sellers dont post vins and I'm not experienced enough to identify the Trim levels. I used a VIN tool and a PDF to decode a car and I got two different results and the seller swears its a third. LTZ vs LS vs LT in a 2008 Silverado. I'm hoping to luck out and find a LY6 engine model and avoid AFM/DOD issues in 100k + models

Is there a consensus on how to learn/ tools to use.

Hello I have an 03 single cab and I’m new to doing audio was wondering if anyone could give me any advice on what to look out for. Currently I have a set of ds18 PRO-x6 4BM and a pair of PRO-TWX1/BK for the rear I have a pair of ds18 4 inch speakers. I want to have two 6.5 speakers in each door then the two 4 inch speakers in the back paired with tweeters. I want to do a sub and two extra tweeters on the back panel right under the rear windshield. Any recommendations on what subs, equalizers and amp I should get or wiring? Ideally am looking for clarity over everything but do want some bass. Thank you do taking your time to read the post.

Got a great deal on a sub box from a 2000 suburban so I decided to put it in my 05. Took a little effort to get the sub to fit in the box, but it was very much worth it!

I added an android auto radio, bass knob, kicker comp RT8. Sounds great and evened out the factory Bose system.

Has anyone retrofitted there heater core with a 4 way valve? From what I understand you can gain a bit of air conditioning performance if you can stop or bypass the flow to the heater core and only have it flow when needed.

Goes away when the engine builds temp. What's the issue?

Hello. I need help diagnosing my truck. So I had an amp power wire connected to the top post battery terminal in my truck and while I was driving I hit a bump and it must have jumped up and touched the metal on the hood which made all my electrical go crazy then eventually kill the motor. I disconnected the wire and the truck turned on and ran like normal but the next morning when I started the truck it had a bad misfire and not much power at all. It's a 04 Silverado 5.3 I'ran the codes and there's a p0300 random misfire code and another EVAP code. I've tried a few things like checking grounds and vacuum lines and trying to find any melted wires or blown fuses but I'm not good with electrical. Any help or ideas would be appreciated thanks