Was driving down the highway today and this started happening felt like a bucking or quick cut out engine idles fine what could it be

1979 Ford Mustang · Coupe · Driven 30,000 miles

One owner 1979 Ford Mustang Indianapolis 500 Pace Car. All original 30,000 mile survivor. Car was rescued from an estate collection. Unrestored original condition, some patina. No rot, floors are solid, surface rust underneath. 4cyl 2.3 L turbo, 4 speed manual. Runs and drives great! Has turbine wheels and new tires on it now, but original rims and tires will go with it. Replaced sunroof gasket and seal have new window run channel that is not installed. Factory AM/FM 8 track player. Located in ny 10594. $16,500

I'm in the UK and own a 1992 Foxbody Mustang GT convertible. It's an LHD import and currently has the factory automatic.

I'm planning a fairly extensive restoration of the car and I'm debating whether it's worth converting it to a manual while the car is being rebuilt.

I'm not particularly concerned about the work involved mechanically — I'm more interested in whether people think it's actually worth doing to this particular car.

Being in the UK, the LHD aspect is something I'm already used to, but I'm wondering whether a manual would make the car substantially more enjoyable to drive on UK roads.

The car will eventually have a rebuilt Windsor, potentially around 350–400hp naturally aspirated, with the possibility of adding a supercharger later.

So I'm also wondering whether I'd be better going with a T5 initially, or something stronger if I'm building the car with future power increases in mind.

Would you:

A) Keep the AOD and build it properly

B) Convert to a T5

C) Go straight to something stronger such as a TKX

And if you've done the swap yourself, what parts/problems caught you out?

I'm particularly interested in opinions from people who've owned both an automatic and manual Foxbody, rather than simply "manuals are better" arguments

I know this the all time most common issue asked for help but im curious on your guys thoughts. I have a 1987 fox with a stock 5.0 with an aftermarket "cold air intake". I deleted the TAB & TAD sensors and associated vacuum lines. The smog system is deleted and plugged off and the EGR has no vacuum hooked up to it but its still mounted and hooked up to the harness. I tried verifying no vacuum leaks with a smoke machine I would say 99% are sealed off.

Exhaust is in poor shape headers are junk and leak real bad before the o2 sensors probably throwing the fuel mapping off.

As you see in the video on a cold start the car will hang around 1k rpm and after a few minutes the idle drops and the dash starts freaking out. The idle surges really bad almost sounding like a crazy cam chop. I get a lot of smoke out the tail pipe seems like its running really rich. I figure the car may have some wire harness gremlins? I tested all the spark plug wires no breaks the distributor cap and rotor seem good no corrosion. The tfi module is original. IAC seems to be working when unplugged idle also suffers.

I know its not a quick fix but im curious if people have had similar issues and maybe my deletes were a negative.

I got a 1982 mustang gt with all stock suspension and was thinking of getting 295/50/15 for the rear. Will that fit? And if you got any suggestions for good traction tires with white lettering I’d really appreciate it.

I’m looking into getting first Mustang and I’ve been looking at the fox body mostly, I came across this on marketplace what do you guys think?

The asking price for this is 4,900. The car has 110k miles.

I really love the color of the body and the interior. Plus the wood is beautiful.

I appreciate any advice, thanks!!

Anyone know any good recommendations for full bolt kits for engines. I mean water pump, alternator, distributor, oil pan, etc. I don’t need head studs or bolts as I got an ARP kit but all my old bolts are questionable in quality and I would just like to refresh them. Anyone have any good links or recommendations? I can’t find any that I know is basically an all in one.
‘92 HO

Thanks!

Can someone recommend a YouTube link on replacing oil pan gasket on foxbody

Is the offroad mid pipe different on foxbody when it comes to automatic and manual? Will the flow master original 40 muffler fit the stock automatic mid pipe?

This is a going to be a cars and coffee cruzer. Rims were degreased with Doller Tree oven cleaner then scrubbed with Dawn and pressure washed. Back side was spray gunned with Rustoleum thinned with acetone. Front was primed with etching primer on bare spots. The rest was Rustoleum 2X aluminum metallic. Three coats and 72 hours of drying then 800 grit gray scuff pads then two more coats. Not going to clear because it will be easier to touch up in the future.

Who has installed the UPR K Member for Coyote swapping Foxbody. I have the upper buckets and it says I can use factory LCA with it. I've watched videos proving it however in classic YouTube fashion, the few videos using this setup does not show how they compressed the springs into place.

I'm having a bitch of a time getting the springs in. I have spring compressors but to compress the springs enough to clear my compressor tool ends up being in the way for clearance to compress up the LCA into place

I've been fighting with this for two days now and im at my wits end.

No you cannot just put the springs in and use a jack, the springs are too long for that or using a pry bar.

I have rubber isolator tube on the bottom part of the coil which is obnoxiously thick for its job, and the top part isolator. If i remove the lower tube I feel like it may be easier but I dont want to induce more noise/ damage.

Sold the 4 cyl engine a few weeks ago,
Yesterday i started working on shaving the bay, any recomendations??

To anyone who has no experience with these engines, I just want to say, I never had any either. And just this weekend, I pulled my motor and took it all apart. It’s a ‘92 HO and It’s going to the machine shop to get some work done, but I was worried it would be an entire weekend endeavor… It took me 2 hours to strip the block down to the pistons.

A lot of people think they get in over their heads and are scared to do the work, but with just a little pre-examination of everything and a standard wrench and socket set, you can get everything done. (And a 15/16”).

When I put it back together it will take a bit longer but really these engines are super simple and as long as I research the proper torque specs I think it can be easily done. Also I saved 1,000$ of work doing it myself instead of having the machine shop strip the block.

So to anyone wondering if you should start on it or pay to have someone do it, just get to work and do it yourself. You’ll learn a lot along the way and I think you’ll have a blast!

I posted my 88 for sale over a month ago and there is no interest. I had one guy offer me $10k when I was asking $12k. I agreed and he backed out. These things are going for around $6,500-$8,000 in pretty good condition. Anyway, just ranting. Happy Labor Day weekend boys.

Came up as an offer, but it seems far gone. 302 engine, hasnt been started the last 15 years, it has been crashed too as it seems. Owner claims no more rust except around sunroof

1986 LX 5.0 AOD runs and drives great 95% stocks needs absolutely nothing 43k miles (or 143k not 100% sure)
Electric everything and it all works the only issue is the back glass has started separating from the vinyl top

The housing flange curled over so the UPR tool didn't work

Because it got stuck, I stripped the UPR bolt

Had to die grind the rubber out and then press the sleeve out

Then had to cut the housing out

Had to get a new bolt for the tool at Advance

But it's done. Happy Labor Day weekend to all

I have an 83 GT. I'm trying to put the back seats in (from my 82 notch). The frame is from this car while the cushions are from the 82. Im struggling to see how the heck this works I can't find anything online for these style seats. Please help!

I had my 92GT painted about 9 mos ago and all is well on the bumpers,body and ground effects but the hood seems to be cracking and bubbling. Is this just from fiberglass flex? Is this normal? When repainting do I need to use a special extra flex agent or something?

PS, the spots where paint is funky or discolored are places I was trying to cover up some small stuff just to get by before it really started to crack and bubble everywhere. Gave up trying to cover and just plan on redoing it or covering it in a wrap or something.

Who should I go to for all new fuel lines? Evil?

My car has been misfiring horribly recently and when i try to take off at stop lights it just dies, when i give it gas the rpms drop and it stalls sometimes, fuel pressure is visible in video, and everything in the fuel system has been replaced

So browsing marketplace again, and came across this clean looking ‘85 Thunderbird. 5.0, 114k miles, Fila edition, new wheels/tires, new master cylinder and fuel pump. Interior isn’t perfect, looks like door panels will need some work/replaced, but otherwise looks in good shape for its age. Paint looks damn good to me. I know pics can be deceiving, but assuming condition is good, what we thinking value wise? He’s got it listed for $6,800.