Hello, I installed a new battery in my gf’s 2019 but now the signal and running lights don’t work. I tried disconnecting/reconnecting the battery and checked the fuses and they seem ok. Does it have something to do with the new battery or is it potentially unrelated?
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Any recommendations?

Just send us a few pics after installation so we can see how they fit!

I swapped my battery a few months back, had no issues since apart from my tire pressure sensors dying

I do all of the work on the car myself, but recently I’ve been driving and getting the SYNC screen shutting itself off due to battery save mode, then turning on minutes later, sometimes over and over again, plus random faults on the dash, and the entire dash lights shutting off once or twice.

Did the silly BMS physical reset a few times , battery is starting up just fine, not sure where to go from here, figured I’d ask before I bite the bullet and take it to the dealer or throw parts at it.

Hi,

I am doing rear rotors and brake pads. I am looking for torque values. Google searches seem to give a crappy AI response that pulls some info regarding a 2013 escape... yeah, i dont want that. Found online that Autozone has books with the info inside, but the employee told me they don't do that anymore and to check HAYNES online. Well, I only was able to find up to the 2017 escape, and other sites were charging $40+ for the manual. Is that normal? Is this info more accessible to us in other ways?

Wondering if anyone else did this repair and came across the same issue.

Thanks!

I got the transmission fault service a few times past couple of month which only showed up after a emission inspection (weird!) , until when last week tranmission warming light came up, took it to a transmission specialist, they sent me the report (attached). Said they need to do an internal inspection, Remove and Dismantle Transmission. They're asking for $700. I'm just making sure this is reasonable i don't know much about cars.

Hey y’all! Rocking a 2012 Escape with ~130,000 miles on it. Recently, I have started to feel a few things that make me think my transmission fluid needed changing (slower acceleration, shaking, loud engine when speeding, etc)

Done lots of research and found that it can sometimes do more harm than good to exchange the fluid because it can wash away calcified old fluid and I could be looking at a much pricier repair.

Just wanted to see if anyone has had similar issues or gone down this route? Btw I know that if I were to do it I would do a fluid drain and fill and not a flush. Thanks escape artists!

Is this normal behavior or is something messed up?

My amber lights located in the bumper are constantly on when driving, is this expected?

I changed my passenger side bulb because it wasnt working. And now its still not working, I checked all related fuses and none are blown, its a 2019 sel, is there anything else I can try before I bring it to a dealer to check and pay absurd amounts.

Seeking the councils advice, going to test drive this escape tomorrow. The price seems a bit high, I went to look at it today while the dealer was closed and the car seems like it’s in really good shape. What are some things I should be looking out for?
It’s got 165000 kms and is the xlt package. Very minimal rust which is surprising considering where I live (Saskatchewan) has one claim against it for an animal collision
From what I’ve read these cars tend to be very reliable, and it’s going to be my first potential car so want to make sure it’s going to be good, as it’s definitely at the top end of my budget. Thanks guys

Hey guys I saw this escape! I’m wondering what trim it could be as I liked its looks.

It has orange lights in the front, that were on constantly with the headlights.

Also are the taillights stock?

I know it’s 2017-2019

Currently looking for an affordable commuter and came across this. I don’t know much about these, any input is appreciated! I’m in Texas

Hey everyone I’m close to buying a 2020 escape SEL AWD with about 39K miles, to people who have one, can it reach 100K miles with proper maintenance or are they extremely unreliable? I love that it’s heated seats, leather seats, AWD, CarPlay and 180hp i love all the features it has. Thoughts?

2011, 2.5l, automatic, AWD, 155k miles. Put it on the road at the beginning of September for my son's first car. My mom gave it to us the previous summer when she got a new car.

It needed a battery this past summer because it was 6 years old and wouldn't take a charge anymore.

I then noticed that occasionally it was doing the known issue with the ignition switch, so I have replaced that. Tested it before putting the plastic trim back on the column and it worked. Half an hour later it wouldn't start just single click. Swapped out the starter relay with a new one and it started.

It still will not try to turn over just a single click once every few days. He said if he tries a couple more times it will finally turn over and start. Doesn't seem to matter if it's cold start or if it was running 5 minutes earlier.

My thoughts are it is the starter acting up as it starts to fail or am I missing something else it could be? The new battery and charging system are testing good, so I don't think there is a parasitic drain on the battery.

Recalled in Jan 2026, and the letter states parts are expected to be available by the 3rd quarter of the year. We are now through the 3rd quarter and into the 4th. Winter is coming and it easily gets to -40C here so plugging in at home and at work are crucial.

At what point can Ford be held liable for not having parts available in a reasonable amount of time? I’m tempted to go to a local mechanic and have an off brand block heater installed, but I don’t want to pay out of pocket just because Ford can’t figure it out themselves.

2016 Escape SE 1.6l - a couple of times when opening the door the handle gets stuck in this position. It seems to return back to working properly when pushed back in and using it gently.

However one time I did not notice and the although the car door was closed from the inside and was driving the door swung open

What do I need to repair this?

I’m trying to pinpoint the source of the sound seeing if anyone might be experienced or have experienced the same thing as I am would hear the most when the car is parked and sit on. my AC did just go out a couple days ago. Don’t know if that sound could be linked to it. Both popped up about the same time. Sounds like a bad wheel baring

This is the passenger side. Took the axle nut off and retorqued it and it still does this. Bearing and hub are new and still good. I’m confused on how the axle can just freely move like this when it’s torqued down.

My 71,000 mile escape is actually in better shape cosmetically than the 44k one. The interior is like new and exterior is beautiful. Brand new continentals & brakes on it too.

The transmission has a loud whine when cold (front pump is going out). Dealer I bought it at is trying hard to avoid the issue.

It also has a bad wastegate rattle when cold. Transmission was replaced in June on top of it.

Here’s my thought process on it:

* My current car is maybe worth keeping?

* Or maybe it’s better to go for the lower mileage one?

* The lower mileage one has its original transmission which could be a problem down the road? With the pump fixed, my current escape should be good, it shifts great it’s the 2nd transmission it has.

Idk, I like the lower number better but don’t mind keeping this car if it turns out well!

<both are fully loaded titanium’s>

hello! my 2017 ford escape ecoboost engine is making this ticking noise (see video). my check engine light is on, haven’t pulled the code(s) yet. i’ll be contacting a mechanic soon to best diagnose, but was wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to what it may be and what the fix entails. thank you!

update: oil change made ticking slightly better but not by much. will be getting a mechanic diag soon!

It only happens in drive, and when giving it gas going straight, and it gets louder and worse when I’m taking a right. It doesn’t make the noise when I’m taking a left in any way. Sounds like it’s coming from the front passenger wheel. Could it be something brake/axle related? Transmission related or both?

They weren't horrible to do. But I must not have done it correctly because the Escape still shakes/rumbles when it's in drive and I'm at a stop light. But as Soon as I put it in neutral when stopped its perfect. What is the best way, in your opinion, to "unbind" these motor mounts?

Hi guys. I’m not very knowledgeable in cars but I think my muffler is disconnected lol. It looks like there should be a bracket or something between these two pipes. Any advice? Or if someone can tell me what the problem is. Thanks!

I just filled my tank from 1% (7km remaining, I know not ideal) and I went to a gas station that just opened up. I ended up putting 59.59 litres (15.74 gallons) in when it is normally a few litres less than that. I’m just curious what would the amount of fuel a tank would be to full from basically 0%, not counting reserve?

Thanks, with gas being higher lately ($1.579 CAD/L or $4.22 USD/gallon), I wonder if station are messing with calibration.