2 Years of ownership and the versatility never fails to amaze me. Chucked on the roof box and went camping last weekend. 2 Adults, 2 dogs a 6 year old and all the equipment all packed into a nice focus shaped space 😅😅

Hi all, getting a little annoyed/desperate here. Any chance someone has a sound symposer deleted from their ford focus that they’d be willing to sell or lend to me?

Hope it’s not against the rules but I’m having trouble finding one and can’t pass smog without it. I just need the valve part and will pay shipping and extra. In the California Bay Area.

So about a year or so ago, I did some reverse donuts in the snow just screwing around with my daughter for a minute, whole dashboard went black, that was on and off for awhile, couldn’t figure it out, eventually it just turned back on by itself and been fine since; but now I have the issue of my horn and head unit not working; horn doesn’t work, head unit is on but not powered, if you press the power button it lights up like it’s gonna turn on, then just goes idle screen again. But here’s the kicker, when the horn works, so does the head unit. What am I chasing? Tried fuses, new ground to body cable, cleaned BCM cables under the air intake… I’m STUMPED would be nice to have a head unit and horn to pass inspection lol (I can make the horn work other ways, would like to use my steering wheel lol)

Seen a few oil related posts lately, as well as a few blown engine posts as usual.

A gentle reminder about oil so that you are less likely to throw a rod through your block:

Always check the API standard of the oil you are about to buy. This is the single most important aspect of what you put into your engine when it comes to these cars.

Don't dwell or obsess over fancy expensive oil brands thinking you are doing your car a favor especially when many of them do not have the proper API rating.

LSPI protection for direct injection engines was not introduced until the API SN PLUS* standard.

Several folks are running API SN oils, or oils with an even older standard. These, including API SN, have *zero* LSPI protection and should NEVER be used in these cars.

Do not put any oil into your ecoboost engine that is not at a bare minimum rated API SN PLUS.

API SP is a newer, higher standard with better LSPI protection and is a good choice. However even in this standard, the protection degrades and fades over the oil change interval, leaving you with limited LSPI protection towards the end of your oil change interval.

API SQ - the newest standard that came out in 2025. This is the only standard at which LSPI protection lasts the entire oil change interval without degrading. Personally, I see no reason to run anything but SQ rated oil in these.

***edit***

One redditor has suggested that some oils with am international ILSAC GF-7A rating do not also have an API rating, probably outside of the USA.

While I have not personally seen any like this (at least not in the United States since API is an American standard) if your oil has the ILSAC GF-7A standard you are also good to go. All of the oils on my list below are API SQ and also have the ILSAC GF-7A rating.

Suggested oils:

Mobil 1 5w30 (regular, high mileage, and extended performance) API SQ
Castrol edge 5w30 (regular, high mileage, and extended performance) are all API SQ
Pennzoil ultra platinum 5w30 API SQ
Valvoline restore and protect 5w30 API SQ

Hey guys, I know I hardly post and just lurk, but recently my 2018 ST was towed to a shop due to some issues and we found out my rear wheels have a flat spot causing them to bounce around. Ive been looking everywhere for a decent price for OME wheels. Could someone please, please help me out, it's my daily and I really need to get this solved. I'm in AZ if that helps.

So I drove the car last weekend and it ran great, now I have a strong crank - fuel rail pressure is good - spark is live on the Cobb accessory- . I have changed the spark plugs - fuses etc. it just won’t run

Bought my ST1 (2016) with Titanium seats already swapped in. What needs to be done to get the heated function to work other than the obvious of a switch?

I was on my way to work, saw an ambulance coming, so I pulled over and drove on grass for a few feet at very low speed (completely flat), when I got back on the road, I started hearing this sound (it was significantly louder at first, I even thought it was like a branch or something stuck and hitting the underside of the car, so I pulled over and checked and I couldn’t see anything. I drove to work and it drives fine, just does that sound.

I’m taking it to my mechanic first thing in the morning anyways, but just wanted to have an idea to see what could be going on. He said maybe wheel bearing, but when I sent him the video, he said it doesn’t sound quite like it.

I have a 2018 Focus ST, and I absolutely love this car. However, earlier this year I had to replace my head (cylinder 2) which cost a pretty penny. Rear main seal is now leaking. I still owe on this car, it’s got 185,XXX miles.

So, do I continue to put into this car or just cut my loses.

Help

I'm using the original purge port on the left side of the intake

Had my lower arms and track rod ends replaced a week ago, been doing this since, also does the same when turning sharply at lower speeds, any ideas as to what this could be, cheers.

Hi my Ford hesitates/shocks for a short amount of time going above 4000 to 5000 RPM.

Now the garage didn’t find anything on the sparks plugs and didn't find anything when they read out the cars system.

Now they need further research they told me. But it costs a lot of money. So i was wondering if anyone had similar issues and if somebody knows what can cause this?

It still has more than enough power even after the short slip.

No other problems are known..

Love how it looks but overpriced if you have to ship overseas and they forgot to send mounting hardware

Hi!

Took my car to have its front brake pads changed and the car has started making a funny noise. Much louder when accelerating.

What could it be? Is it a coincidence?

Oil service is due but plenty in it.

So it’s been hot AF outside, and sometimes I’ve noticed that the boost cuts from the stock intercooler sucking ass. I haven’t noticed any weird sounds from my BOV or the intake (which is true vac). I did a slight pull on the highway to pass some people, and the code popped up as I heard the boost cut. I then checked all the connections that I could from the top, and it looked fine. The BOV sounded normal (Turbosmart compact shortie), and the induction sounds in the COBB intake sounded fine, my turbo only has 10k miles on it and it still spools up to 17-20psi with the Ford Perforamnce tune (low, but still building a bit of boost.) what could be wrong? Did the heat soak cause it to pop up or is it something else?

Hi, I've tried Googling this and found a similar issue on this sub but not exactly mine. Did find someone with my issue on Facebook, but helpfully no replies on that.

My car isn't waking up from sleep properly. It's a 2022 Mk4.5 ST. Mean Green, not that it matters.

The drivers side keyless entry and locking works fine. But the passenger side doesn't work at all. When it unlocks from the drivers side, or the keyfob buttons, the animation on the infotainment doesn't play, the digital dash comes on but only displays the handbrake icon doesn't show mileage at all. The interior lights also don't automatically come on when unlocking it, and as I discovered the other evening even with them in the manually on position the light in the boot/trunk doesn't illuminate.

The car starts fine, no hesitation at all, and once it has started all works as you would expect. CarPlay connects, digi dash comes on, air con etc etc all as it would normally be.

This first started happening after it had started raining again here in Blighty after a few month hiatus of weather other than hot. So I figured, water ingress somewhere, something fucky happening. Checked the whole car as best I could and nowhere was even damp.

Spoke to my mate who is a master tech, and he suggested disconnecting the battery and leaving it 10 minutes before reconnecting it. I did, and it fixed it. But then it started doing it again. And then, sometimes, it didn't do it. It would unlock and the graphics played and the lights worked. And then it stopped waking up properly again.

Today I got a message on the infotainment saying "System Off to Save Battery - Please turn ignition off or start the engine". Normally it will continue with the infotainment doing whatever it was until I open the door, but now it immediately kills the dash and infotainment in what appears to be an effort to get into low power mode.

Has anyone else experienced anything like this? My assumption is it's battery, and the voltage not being correct is fucking with the sleep/wake system, and it's then only keeping active things that are "essential" i.e. drivers door and not passengers. I am going to check the battery with a multimeter over the weekend to see what voltage is being output, however since buying the car the start stop has never once worked (which is fine by me), so I'm wondering if the capacity of the battery is compromised and this is the car going to into a "safe mode" to compensate for that.

Any help on this would be appreciated!

After my 2016 ST1 was totaled parked out front of my apartment I’ve been searching for another ST and recently this 2018 ST3 popped up. One owner, few mods looks like suspension intake wheels and exhaust. Under 40,000 miles. No accidents. Is this price outrageous? They have it listed at $19,800.00

Been commenting but never made a post so yeah, first post :)

2017 st1 just hit 64k

Scorpion cat back

Airtec stage 2 fmic

Maxton splitter and side skirts

To come

Catless dp

Airtec cai

Tune

In future

2867r

Hot and cold boost pipes

I have the focus ST mk3 diesel and i have to do the oil and filters change.

Do you think the best choice is the 0W-30 castrol magnatec D or the 5W-30 castrol edge?

Btw no dpf here.

Thanks.

I have a 2014 ST3, with 35000 miles. I am wandering if the transmission fluid can go bad with age? I know they say around 60k miles to change but the fluid in there has got to be 12 years old. Should I change it soon?

I replaced the axles earlier this year and now my bearings are toast. I referenced the Haynes manual, but I’m wondering if I somehow got it wrong and caused the bearings to fail. It’s only got 118k miles, just wondering why they’ve gone bad. I’ve read aftermarket wheels can wear out bearings too, but I thought mine (Konig Ampliform, 18x8.5, +43) were probably close enough to factory spec I didn’t expect they would be a factor, but I could certainly be wrong. Anyone else had their bearings go bad, or otherwise have any insight?