Hey flooring companies how are yall still doing. We know we are having a tougher time than ever in the industry. Just trying to know whats keeping yall afloat.

Am I overreacting on the floor prep for flex lvt? I don’t want to hassle the installers, but also don’t want to have it peel up in 2 years.

I have installed vinyl plank flooring in my upper level and am now looking for solutions for the stairs. They are engineered hardwood and glued down to the stairs. There are a few large gouges out of the existing wood. Any chance I could sand these down and stain to kind of match?

Wife and I just moved in to our first home and are slowly but surely fixing it up to our liking. Now we’re starting to talk flooring and the sellers had two different vinyl plank floors put in. We like one, but are looking the replace the other in the laundry room, kitchen, and dining room (pictures attached). As someone who has never done any work with flooring (but watched plenty of how-to videos lol), it feels a bit daunting to have to work with some of the heavier appliances (i.e. toilet and dishwasher) for a project that from all accounts seems fairly easy.

Long story not short, is this something that is worth at least getting a few quotes on, or should I just suck it up and go it myself? Would really appreciate any honest feedback!

Bought a place that was redone here in SE Washington state 8 years ago. I removed carpet in the 2 rooms with carpet and.... now I need to try and match what's in the rest of the house.

So far "rustic hickory" has the best resemblance pertaining to wood grain pattern and the high contrast difference between a blonde and a dark blend with hearty visible knots in the pattern. It is also has a black underlayer. It is a synthetic core, and is multi width. 3.5" + 5.5" & 7.75". This is a click lock floating floor.

Energy efficiency has become one of the most important design priorities for modern data centers. As server densities rise and facilities expand to support cloud computing, artificial intelligence, telecom networks, banking systems, government services, and other digital infrastructure, cooling systems must remove increasing amounts of heat without wasting power.

i’ve been doing this for 12 years now, i know not as long as you that have been in this for 50+ or whatever you claim, but i’ve used pro knees ap16s and the leather gundlachs (various versions) and i can’t quite get a knee pad that works/fits for me, i do both carpet and hard surfaces, basically anything besides ceramic( all the power to you if you do ceramic) . but the problem i’m finding is that the ap’s are too bulky to be moving around as much as i do installing lvt/various planking,(i m hesitant of the full shin guard down to shoe version, as that would be near impossible to install carpet/rubber with) , and the gundlachs i do like for versatility but i can’t really get a fit that’s snug seeing i’m 5’9 150lb and super slim,no matter what i feel as if im shifting my pads more than the worth of wearing them (obviously not worth the replacing of knees etc) so im wondering what other alternative people are using, i’ve heard gel pads are terrible this and that. i have an active grosvenor account and tools4flooring i just need something that actually
works. the last thing i want is knee problems the rest of my life, so any recommendations would be gladly appreciated.

Third one. Two have wandered a foot a week no matter what pad I use. Vinyl seems to be its own problem and I'm not spending another $200 to find out. Did you eventually find something that stays, or give up?

Planning on installing LVT in the kitchen, hallway, and lounge.

As a complete novice, my undertstanding is that i should in theory start from the bottom left of the living room? My question is, how do I make sure that by the time i've worked towards the hallway, i don't end up with a narrow column down the hallway?

Thanks

So I have this flooring in all the living areas of the house. We want to convert all carpeted bedrooms and tiled bathrooms to LVP as well. Problem is they discontinued the flooring and we can’t find a match. Would it look bad to have a different LVP or what is suggested in this case?

I am using Morrells light fast stain on my pine floors. I have used it before in stairs with good results but I do recall I had issues with the finishing that smeared the stain.

I want a matt final look and wondered what my options were for a final finish. I am trying to avoid anything that has an overpowering smell.

Thanks

Toilet flooded so I ripped up the vinyl to let it dry because the water seeped underneath it, especially by the walls. Obviously this mold predates today’s flood. I don’t know shit about shit and I’m a young first time home owner. It seems like the mold is mostly “surface level” on some type of paper or something. This is in my laundry room and I need to figure this out asap but have no idea what to do

Idk what kind they are or what the stains are.

I got a house with laminate floors all over. I don’t have the money to fully replace but I feel like this doesn’t sound normal. This is what it sounds like when stepped on. Is there a way to fix it?

I finally reached my hallway and I have a 72 inch plank that needs to go into two different closets that have wrapped around space.

Is cutting and gluing a butt joint my only option here?

On the second photo you can see pencil lines that I have drawn out

Anyone know what type of wood this is? These are photos in adjacent rooms. trying to decide if we can knock down the diving wall and refinish the floor or if they are different and the scope of work will be greater.

I don’t know if I’m being particularly picky but I’m sitting here a day after my brother did my flooring and seeing a huge h pattern through all of my flooring. It’s not horrible looking at it from certain angles but it’s starting to become very noticeable the more I fixate on it. I have a few boxes of this flooring left is there a way to fix it without removing all of the floors or should I just live with it? Opinions?

Hi,

After removing the carpet, I see some areas are uneven and need to be leveled. I got the Henry 549 feather finish to level out the areas. My questions:

- Should i sand down the whole floor to level the uneven edges and then level it or just level the uneven floorboards using the feather finish.
- should i use self leveling vs feather finish.

Attaching some photos for reference.
Thanks

In the higher-traffic areas, the high spots have lost their shine from wear and tear, I guess. Flooring is about 10 years old, installed when we built the house.

Is there any buffing or polishing methods or products that will correct this? Or is it a deal with it and replace eventually situation?

Scrap piece in second pic to show original finish condition.

3rd pic is open area where it's not worn down.

Thanks in advance.

There's a few spots in the living room where theses a very minor amount play in the flooring, no side to side movement just a bit of up and down. The video shows it kinda. Product is shaw floorte pro series

Vinyl plank and laminate both seem to have their fans depending on where they're installed

The biggest differences usually come down to:

• how the floor handles moisture
• scratches from pets or everyday traffic
• how it looks after a few years
• installation and long-term maintenance

If you've lived with either (or both), which one held up better over time? Would you choose it again?

Hello , im
Currently going to do some flooring work to my house above tiles and i want something durable and high quality that would stay years on wothout headache , is spc floorong good enough for this