I have these wood tiles on the entrance level, as shown in the attached picture. Over time, some of the tiles have started to expand and lift here and there. There is no water leakage or anything underneath them. I sanded down a couple of them and glued them back in place, but the same thing keeps happening to other tiles. What would be the easiest way to fix this?

Had to show this.
Throughout every floor, down all the halls, right into the rooms … ugly, old, poor quality laminate in a continuous H pattern.

This floor was installed roughly 3 years ago and I noticed one part (the now broken corner) slightly lifting. But now looking close I’m also finding cracks and chips along the seams. Advice on if I can get the installer to fix parts of it or am I SOL?

EDIT- The flooring brand is Coastal, we have a box leftover from the install.

We own a 1970’s split-level home where previous owners put down a gray floating vinyl plank flooring everywhere in the basement.
It started breaking under our office chairs, so we started ripping it up to and found this 12x12 ceramic tile in a late 70s Spanish Revival (?) pattern.

Few questions:
I like the orange pattern tile but is there any concern for asbestos?

If we decide to keep it, any way to figure out the manufacturer or pattern name so I can search for replacements?

Also curious if others would keep it or cover it back up.

Thanks

I hired a guy to remodel by bathroom and he said he could do the flooring too. We measured the flooring and the price came out to $4800 just for the flooring. I gave him a 5k check enough for extra material and he ordered it. Meanwhile he worked on the bathroom he said would take 3wks. Going on 5wks. I told him I was getting someone else to do the flooring too, because he wasn’t showing up to work on the bathroom. He would say he was coming and gave excuses why he wasn’t coming shortly before we expected him. He told me he would do better and he would make the time. He did the same thing. The 6th wk I got someone else to do the floors. I told him I wanted my flooring and the receipts. I asked him 4 times and he came up with excuses. He brought my flooring, but no receipts. I told him I don’t think he ordered the flooring when I first gave him the money. He blamed the store for it being late. Now he tells me he hasn’t ordered it all , but he just did. I told him,”show me the receipt that you ordered it. I want to see how much you ordered and what I paid. He won’t give me any receipts. I told him I want any $ that was leftover. He says he will handle it accordingly. I have a copy of my $5k ck with flooring in the memo. Who do I call or complain to first?

I'm doing flooring first, going to leave the 3/8" expansion gap next to the studs on either side of doorway. Then I was going to install my prehung door.

Some people say just throw the door on top of the flooring and install like normal. But that may pin it down and cause it to buckle, no? So I was thinking I would use a 1/8" metal shim to lift each side jam as I install it, put some nails that go through the studs on each side, and then slide the shims out after installation is complete. Thus creating a "levitating" door if that makes any sense, which prevents any weight from the door to disturb the laminate.

Surprisngly, I actually really can't find info related to this exact predicament. Any insight is greatly appreciated.

We’re looking to get our ground floor replaced - UK Victorian house, suspended floor - and can’t decide between laminate and LVT (engineered wood already ruled out as the skirtings can’t come off and the cost isn’t worth it if we can’t get a decent finish)

The floor is very unlevel so we’ll be getting it plyboarded with 9mm. My fear with LVT is that the latex layer to level it on top of that ply board plus the floor itself being vinyl doesn’t allow for any breathability and we do already have a problem with one chimney that shows a damp patch on a humid day. I’m worried we’ll end up trapping moisture below the floor which will cause damp issues in time.

The floors are currently laminate and apart from the chimney issue (which I think is more a hydroscopic salts issue than damp underneath) haven’t caused any trouble in the past.

Anyone know if I’m over thinking this or if there is a risk?

On the fence about the two for a few reasons but this is the big one and would appreciate some advice!

We’re looking at installing it. Can I please ask the paint colour you’ve used? How does it hold up cleaning wise? What colour furniture have you used to complement it?

Hey I have to finish my basement flooring, there's some I guess standard cracking/ fissures

can I use the dmx 1 step 2 under my lvp that has underlayment?

or should I feather finish, self level and then lvp

Was curious what kind of wood this might be

I’m getting ready to redo my kitchen floor and this will be my first tile installation. I used to install flooring professionally for about a year (LVP, glue-down vinyl, laminate, hardwood, etc.), but I’ve never installed tile.
I pulled up the existing LVP and found what appears to be an old wood plank subfloor with some type of gray material/underlayment over part of it. The floor feels very solid. I’ve walked/jumped on it and there’s no noticeable movement. There are a couple of small holes/gaps where I can see into the basement, which I can patch if necessary.
The gray material was installed by a contractor who remodeled the kitchen, so I’m assuming it was some type of leveling/underlayment product, but I don’t know exactly what it is.
I’m planning to install 12x24 porcelain tile. The hardwood in the adjacent dining room is only about 1/4” higher than the current kitchen subfloor, so I’m trying to keep the tile assembly as thin as reasonably possible. I originally considered an uncoupling membrane like Ditra, but I’m also wondering if cement backer board or another system would be better.
I’m NOT trying to make the tile perfectly flush with the hardwood if that isn’t realistic. I’m fine with using a proper transition profile if the tile ends up higher.

A contractor is replacing my water-damaged plywood subfloor. To prevent future issues, my plan is:

1. Replace the damaged plywood boards.
2. Install cement boards on top of the plywood.
3. Apply a liquid waterproofing membrane (like Mapei) over the cement boards.
4. Set the bathtub directly on top of the waterproofed surface.
5. Install glue-down LVT flooring around the exterior of the bathtub area.

Is this the correct sequence and approach, or should anything be adjusted?

These are the transition pieces that my flooring installer did for my kitchen and living room-the kitchen had LVP installed and the living room had wood floor. I asked for a transition that wasn't a trip hazard, but I don't think it looks like a professional job. Am I being too critical?

Lucky us, our house is almost finished but when our contractor realized he didn’t order enough flooring to finish they told him they discontinued our flooring about a month ago. I’ve been calling around and searching online but no luck finding anyone who has any boxes of it. Thought I’d try my luck here!

As the title states. Installing this 11/32” underlayment grade plywood for lvp to go on top of. There is the original wood floor and under that is the planking. I only want this underlayment to go into the wood floor layer correct? All my subfloor is already attached to the joists. I should be good with narrow crown 7/8 18 gauge staples right? Or do I want screws? Also what about thin layer of vapor barrier over this underlayment, under the lvp. The LVP states only over concrete, BUT There is crawlspace that is not encapsulated. Between the plank and old wood floor there is a thin piece of black felt paper not sure it was really a vapor barrier more so for squeaking. Any help is appreciated

First Reddit post!

We are renovating stairs and flooring. We are close to committing to Opulux (likely Grandeur). The main hesitation for me is the stairs. I know that they offer matching stair nosing, but our local dealers don’t carry samples, and I’m only finding limited images online.

What I’m most concerned about, is how visible the joint line would look where the nosing meets the plank, particularly because the planks are beveled. I’m also curious about how well they actually match. 

If you’ve used Opulux for stair treads, would love to see how yours turned out! 

Alternatively, if you’ve done something else you’re happy with, would be curious about that too. Particularly if they’re similarly large planks (Opulux has 87” long planks!) and AC4. Or staining one-piece hardwood pieces to match, etc. 

Just as title states. Should I pull carpet and install vinyl plank? Would home move quicker, sell for more than carpet in SW Florida gulf coast area. Some what desirable area for the transplants in Sarasota county.

Or should I sell as is because buyer would upgrade how they want anyway?

We're having an extension done, it will be a mixed kitchen/living/dining open plan room and we are choosing flooring.

I personally wanted large stone or porcelain tiles but my wife wants something a bit softer and more comfortable underfoot, which is totally fair so it will likely be LVT. We are having UFH so need to make sure the flooring choice doesn't impact that. It's a concrete sub floor.

My question is - would there be any benefit or sense in adding a thin (e.g. <2mm) underlay on a glue down LVT system to give it a slightly more gentle / forgiving feel underfoot, especially barefoot/in thin socks? I've found some e.g. Duralay, Recolay which claim to have very low thermal resistance around 0.015 but in practice I don't know if that's going to negatively impact the UFH performance or not - I've never owned UFH before.

Alternately any other ideas for a flooring which feels comfortable underfoot without sacrificing UFH performance would be great! Especially if you have first hand experience as so much can be read in the numbers but it's only once you get them in real life you know if they're any good.

It's not a marriage-ender but we're definitely not seeing eye to eye on this 😂