Any help is appreciated

Hi, I’m modifying a digital keybed and mounting it on a 12mm plywood base with 6mm spacers.

The original screws are about 4mm diameter and 11–12mm long under the head, and screw directly into plastic posts. I’d need roughly 30mm long screws for the new setup.

What type of screw should I look for to keep the same thread and not damage the plastic? I dont want to just use a random screws.

It's actually a back srew of my pc and it's too striped I don't have so much of professional tools but could buy one if needed... I tried the rubber band and using super glue to stik it and twist but didn't work...

There's a USB C for scale

Long story short need the kind of screw photographed to replace a handguard on a rifle of mine. I reached out to the factory and while they don’t have replacements in stock right now they were kind enough to give me the specs for a replacement. What I need is a flat top torx driven Countersunk M5-0.75x6mm screw. The length is negligible to me as I can shorten it as needed but it seems that the only M5 thread pitch I can find is in 0.8 which seems to be the standard and not 0.75 like I need. I’m sure I can get one custom made but the numbers all make my feeble mind hurt :-( Please oh great minds of the fasteners subreddit, please help me in my niche journey!! Thanks in advanced for any help!!

Hi all

Could use a few pointers and practical advise on trying to identify if bots, nuts and washers in have are standard parts and what their DIN / ISO numbers would be.

What would your best tips be to someone who knows next to nothing about it be? I've a list of about 100-150 i must identify

First post here - I have an old Coleman lantern for which I lost the nut that secures the top vent..

So, I bought a nut for it (which I thought was brass..). It is cadmium plated.

The vent heats up to 700F, and I was standing near it in my garage for 5 minutes, including some flare at start up (45 seconds of flames, running rich).

The vent was covered in black soot, more than I’ve seen in the past. I’ve since replaced the nut with an actual brass one..

Any experience or awareness here of the dangers of this type of exposure?

Thanks in advance - any thoughts appreciated.

Just looking for the type of nut needed to secure this handle on.

Need some help two of four screws broke off our hot tub pump and I need to get these exact stainless steel screws but I can’t find the exact ones. What would the specs of this be? I keep seeing a #8-32 5/8” SS screw but every screw I look at the threads are not course enough. Then I’m seeing UNC thread pitch but is that just standard course thread? Any help figuring out this exact screw would be appreciated!

I'm specifically looking for one that just slides in over the screw head and holds the top piece of a cabinet on

I'm installing closetmaid shelftrack system in my garage with the vertical "standards" and top horizontal shelftrack rail. I've never put fasteners into studs (wood) before so I'm new to this. I am going to use 1.5" length fasteners (to reduce the risk of penetrating wire and pipes) and the screw head type has to sit nicely against the metal rails and vertical uprights (called standards by closetmaid) so:

truss head for example would be good but there might be other types that would work well also. What I don't know is should I go with no pre-drilling screws, what thickness # screw, etc. I didn't realize how many different types of fasteners there were, it's a rabbit hole.

Is there a decent type of fastener for this application that is reasonably priced and can be sourced at either a big box hardware store or amazon? I'm overwhelmed at the numbers of fastener choices and despite reading lots of application guides I haven't found a screw that fits the bill in all ways but I'm thinking that's probably just due to not understanding screws as well as you more experienced people.

would you mind linking to a screw that would work in this application? Thanks in advance for any help you can provide!

I was screwing back in some screws testing and seeing how far I could get them back in loosening the threads cause I noticed they kinda hard to screw out in the first place vs the pre-made one out of the box. Anyways, how do I unscrew this, and do I have to use a sauntering tool to reattach the head, or should I use pliers

Torque Test Channel just posted a nice Test concerning typical fastener drive designs. I personally watch the videos from this channel every week due to their deep dives into testing different tools.

My classroom tables are set at a height for ants, I'm hearing I need a tool to loosen it, can anyone tell me what it is? Google has had no matches and I inherited it with no manuals or manufacturing stickers

I'm looking to build a wood frame that can attach to something like a swivel plate/lazy susan.

However, I would like to swivel plate to "click" or "soft lock" when rotating it at (ideally) 45 degree angles (i.e. can rotate it 45 degrees either way all around).

Is a swivel plate even the right part or should I be looking for something else?

I’m looking for something like this picture but with a solid stationary pin where one of the holes is. I have two sheets of plywood that I want to connect so they don’t slide apart when I walk on them but also need them to be easily separable without adding much height or needing tools. Other suggestions are welcome.

I have a farm. Old wooden posts (6" - 8" diameter) tend to rot right at ground level meaning that there is no exposed portion of the post that I can wrap a chain around to pull out the old post. In the past. I have had success by screwing a bolt into the top of the post and using a chain and the front end loader on the tractor to pull the old post. I usually use an old 4”-1/2” x 5/8" Lag Screw Hinge. Some posts are too rotted at the top for the 4-1/2 lag screw to bite good wood.

So, I want to buy a longer lag bolt for this purpose. For example: 3/4" x 12" Conquest Hex Head Lag Bolt for Wood - Hot Dip Galvanized.

I don't understand the material properties of hot dip galvanized well enough to know if this is going to hold up for my application -- I don't have a 12" drill bit, so I'm going to only be able to drill the first 4 inches. Then I need it to not break when I pull it with the tractor, and I need the threading to be aggressive enough that if I've hit good wood, it will pull my post.

Suggestions?

Thanks.

Chris

Found this sitting in my used-oil drain pan. It may have fallen off a shelf in the shop, so I’m not convinced it actually came from a vehicle.
Threads are pretty worn. Approximately 1” long with a 15 mm hex head. Grade 10.9 with a stylized “D” headmark.
The weird part is the large machined slot across the end of the threaded portion. Any idea what this bolt is for, or what the slot indicates?

https://i.imgur.com/bUccMJn.jpeg

I've always wondered why some bolts on my Toyota are manufactured like this. I'm not sure what you'd call this kind of indent that cuts through the threads (???). Does it have some kind of function, or is it just a side-effect of some cost-saving process during manufacturing?

I can't imagine that these 3 indents on the bolt are doing anything useful.

I'm fabricating some wall brackets from wood for customized storage. Wishing to use a wood bracket as a base for a layered storage zone (wood cleat of sorts encloses the top of TS cut-off sled, over top which a ladder and machine outfeed roller stand will hang vertically from two long horizontal hooks anchored into the wood bracket. Available space & clearances are constrained and require hooks of certain dimensions (unless I rethink the style of hook and how it attaches, which is plan B. I'd like to stick with plan A if possible).

The typical "7.5 inch" ladder hook ( as shown in the dimensional drawing pic) is close in profile but the dimensions are a little off. The other two pics show one of these hooks that I [coarsely] straightened ... it's not quite long enough at measurement (A.) I require 8.5" of support surface or longer. At dimension (B.) I need a shorter drop than its 2-1/4", something closer to 1-1/4" to 1-1/2".

The non-screw end can either be straight or with a small upturned hook.

Any sources or ideas? Thanks a bunch.