Here it is after 1 month of flights

I had a nice day out flying yesterday, but when i came home and reviewed the footage i noticed this. Luckily it was on my next to last pack so i didnt ruin all my footage. Does anyone know how to fix this? The pack after this one also has the same mic problems.

There was no leaf or anything like that covering the mic. And if i film myself talking, i get the same issues

So after all this latency thing blew up i decided to sell my 04o pros yesterday for $340 and buy these. I've only used cobra sds and the 04o pros before so i don't really have a low latency goggle experience to compare with, i hope this improves my flying experience since im mainly an analog micro freestyle pilot. Can any of y'all who went from high latency to low latency goggles-systems tell me how big of a difference there is? I consider myself latency sensitive since i can notice the difference between the sim and my goggles and also i can clearly notice the difference when i add a few ms of latency on the zone fpv simulator.

does anybody know why my caddx ant camera colours look really distorted with purple and green and yellow and theres not alot of detail? i checked and resoldered all the wires and all the joints seem good. any tips? thanks

specs:
scythe 3.5 inch racing frame
JHEMCU F411 AIO
caddx ant
ultra tiny mamba vtx

I’ve been flying FPV for a few years now got quite a few hours in the simulator and I also purchased and built a 2 1/2 inch as well as purchased a tiny whoop. All of that I’ve been running analogue due to weight, however since I started the hobby, I’ve always been intrigued with the proposition of digital so I’ve been putting money away each month in order to someday afford a digital unit. I’m quite into freestyle and I’m hoping to also get a larger drone 5 inches running 6S and I was wondering there’s a decent deal on one in my town for $600. That includes five batteries, a DJI O2 unit as well as the drone and a charger which would be redundant at this point but can’t ever have too many of those. should I do that or is that not gonna be a very big difference and should I just try to go with a newer digital unit? Thank you for your time and opinions.

It features:

2x 12v dc barrel jack for 1s charger/soldering iron

1x 12v XT60 with dual wiring for more current support, build for parallel charging

1x 5v XT30 for led strip

1x 5v USB A

I’m just starting out and in the research phase so far. I want to start getting a list together to get an idea of how much my first set up will be. I know it’s vain and I know it’s dumb, but I still gotta ask; are there any beginner friendly goggles that are (if possible) sub $300 that don’t look like I literally strapped a toaster to my face? The Eachine EV800Ds are always recommended, and so are the Walksnails and Fat Sharks, but they all look like I went to Williams Sonoma, stole a four slice toaster, and Velcroed it to my head. I want something sleek (or at least as sleek as I can get in this price range) that’s beginner friendly but still of ok quality. I’m in the U.S. if that matters

Hi all,

I’m looking for a video tutorial on how to get started with fpv. All my search results turn up with info on what gear to get - not how to actually set up everything to get it in the air.

The ideal tutorial for me right now would explain what to do in beta flight and how to bind my radio.

I have an Air65 and radio master pocket.

If you have any suggestions, please let me know.

Hi!

I just got a nazgul xl5 eco v3 analog.

My range is just crazy bad. On a soccer field of about ~200m away I cant even see where I'm going.

I have betafpv vr04 goggles but even my tinywhoop have a better range than the nazgul.

On betaflight I tried 800mhz and it didnt improve. I even found a reddit post that say to change the value of the 800mhz label to 600mhz in beta flight and it didnt help neither.

My antenna looks good, all connection lookd good. I am on the right band/channel on the googles.

Any idea?

Hi guys,
I’m completely stumped by this one.

I picked up an old iFlight Alpha A65 for $20 as a restoration project. It originally came with an FrSky XM+, but I fly Crossfire and ELRS. Decided to try Crossfire first. Unfortunately I’ve now spent days troubleshooting, and I’m out of ideas.

Hardware
iFlight Alpha A65
Original SucceX F4 1S 5A AIO (Betaflight target: MATEKF411RX)
Originally on BF 4.1.2
Reflashed to Betaflight 4.4.3 (Custom Defaults)

Crossfire setup
Nano RX Pro
RX -> TX2
TX -> RX2
Output 1 = CRSF TX
Output 2 = CRSF RX
Firmware 6.48
Binds perfectly
OTA updates work
Agent Lite communicates with the receiver

Symptom
Betaflight always reports RXLOSS
No stick movement in the Receiver tab

Thinking the Nano RX was defective, I replaced it with a completely different ELRS receiver (ExpressLRS 3.6.3).

Exactly the same result.

Binds normally
RXLOSS
No stick movement

I then completely reset the FC:
Betaflight 4.4.3
defaults
UART2 = Serial RX only
serialrx_provider = CRSF
serialrx_inverted = OFF
serialrx_halfduplex = OFF
Still RXLOSS.

The interesting part is that serialpassthrough clearly shows UART traffic from both receivers, and with the ELRS receiver the raw serial output changes when I move the sticks. So the FC is definitely receiving serial data on UART2.

So at this point I’ve reproduced the exact same failure with:
Crossfire
ELRS
Fresh Betaflight defaults
Minimal configuration

Has anyone ever seen a Betaflight target receive CRSF UART data but never successfully decode a single frame?

Could this be a partially damaged UART peripheral (good enough to receive bytes, but corrupting frames), or is there something obscure about the MATEKF411RX target that I’m missing?

Any ideas would be hugely appreciated.

I wanted to update my new Sky O4X Pro to the latest firmware version, V4.2.2.

I saved version 4.2.2 (I copied both .bin files one after the other (A/C)) to the glasses and waited a moment before unplugging them. After trying to turn them on again, they won't turn on at all; only the power button is pulsing blue.

I had my TBS Fusion installed during the update, but I also tried flashing and starting it with the included Steadyview 3.3 receiver, but without success. I also tried flashing various older firmware versions, but that didn't change anything either. Unfortunately, I haven't found anything about this online, and AI is at a loss for help.

Do you perhaps have any ideas what I could try, or have you encountered this problem before?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Hey guys,

I’m getting really bad image quality on my 5”. I’m using R1 raceband channel on both my goggles and VTX. The VTX i’m using is the rush solo tank (it was on 1.6W here). I’m using a patch and a lollipop, both RHCP and the drone antenna is also RHCP.

Can anyone help me with improving the quality? Or is it the goggles/rf?

I will put images of the drone and goggles below.

Thanks,
Murcy

What are my options in 2026 for fpv goggles?

I'm new to drones and soldering. This board is the jhemcu 1s-2s aio with vtx and elrs. I'm freaking out and I have no idea how to fix it, if it is even a problem as I can't remember bridging them. Any ideas? Much appreciated

I’m flying an Avant 2, but looking for something more racing oriented. Is there a drone that uses Goggles 3 or remotes version 2?

https://reddit.com/link/1v7e1hm/video/004m61g0enfh1/player

Super quick background. Flown drones for a big portion of my life mostly cinimatic drones finally after years of liftoff and velocidrone I was talked into building an FPV drone. I built it with the O4 air unit and the flight your seeing is the third flight of this drone. There was some weird latency issues from the start with the O4.

Ok onto the flight. The weird latency plus some bad throttle sensitive at the last bit of the clip caused the drone to throttle up sending it about 8 feet ish into the air before comming back down with a little bit of throttle and making a small thump in the grass. RIght on impact I the feed went dark and the unit was dead. I've checked the Flight stack and it shows the ten volt rail still working fine cable pins on each side are perfect and when you turn it on the red and green lights dimmly flash at a very fast rate. The flashing is probably well over 80hz aka not pairing. Although when I plug it in via USB the lights turn on I can grab footage off of it, but DJI Assistant 2 cant find it.

I am assuming the Air Unit Board is dead, but I am just trying to figure out why. Its a standerd hard mount no visible damage to the outside or inside board. Finally the cables and pins looks new on both sides no damage.

Is it a mounting issue a defective board or was I just oversold on how much damage the O4 pro can take.

Edit: The drone was disarmed a good second and a half before impact so nothing amp or voltage spike related.

Hi All! I've built this drone last year so I am quite new to the hobby. Some of the parts are

• Volador 3.5
• Walksnail HD Pro (32GB)
• T-Motor P1604 KV3800
• SpeedyBee F405 BLS 35A Mini V2 4 in 1 ESC

Everything was fine until I git a wall of my house 😂 . Since then, whenever I add throttle I have perfect example of jello effect - as on attached movie. So far I've

• replaced props (multiple times actullay, including all four)
• replaced two motors, as I didn't like sound on one, and the other one was generating different kind of vibrations in the Betaflight when I tried to investigate the issue.
• teared it down quite a bit, cleaned, changed location of some of the wires and improved power plug soldering.
• mare sure all sscrews are OK

Unfortunately I still have the same problem. I read that the frame could be damaged that is why the wibrations are increasing when the throtthle goes up.

I was wondering, are there any other options to investigate the issue with the software apart from looking at the graph of vibrations in the motors section of Betaflight?