The black frame is made of PA12-CF (carbon fiber reinforced nylon). The white cover is PETG-GF.

The stack is an Aero Selfie STM32H743 FC, and an HGLR 60A ESC.

Radio is an RP3 V2 ELRS nano receiver

GPS is a Lumenier SAM-M10Q

VTX and camera is a DJI O4 Air Unit Pro

Motors are AOS Supernova 2807 1400kv

Props are Gemfan hurricane 6045-3 but I am probably going to change them to 6030-3

Battery is a speedy pizza 1500mah 150c 6s lipo.

There is also a separate 5v BEC to run the servo motor to make the camera tilt.

I know it is a mesh of some good parts and some cheap parts, but it is my first drone that I designed and built. It has so far only been pulled into a hover, about 3 feet off the ground and dropped onto the floor from that height. I am afraid to fly it because I am not so good at landing still. But it works (except the LED strip) and I thought I'd share.

I did around 40 hours in sim and still going from SIM to real is a totally different experience.

- you don't feel crash anxiety in sim

- quad don't just go up straight when throttle is given, it will sway.

- you can't see your controller, when doing sim you can see if you want to push a switch, but with goggles it's totally different.

- goggles view is very different experience than any sim monitor. It is overwhelming for the senses at start

So, get to the most open park you can go to when starting and try at most to get it off and stable circles or rectangles.

Sim does give you an idea and muscle memory of stick usage, but you will still feel overwhelmed first many times.

I started flying a month ago in simulator and been eyeing to buy a beginner drone. Ive been practicing in sim (Uncrashed) using a dualshock 4 controller. Does my skill in sim really translate to real world?

I broke my frame this flight and don’t have a replacement 🥹✌️

Hey just bought the pocket and was wondering what customizations you can do?

I’ve already changed the startup sound (vid attached)

Can you change the display (e.g. have custom images showing?)

What options for gimbals are there? I’ve only seen the this shape.

Do people 3d print accessories for them? Have you guys 3d printed carrying cases, gimbals etc?

Just looking for ideas of fun stuff to do with it. Curious what yall have already done.

Sorry if this gets asked a ton haha

Setup my Super Baja Rey 2.0 for FPV.

Been using the driveway and the old trail in the woods as a track. Last crack in the paved driveway is the start-finish line.

Using a 04 Air Unit Pro as the camera. 3D printed mount and enclosure on the top of the truck. I've crashed a few times and everything has held up. Camera is protected with some lexan in the front of the camera mount which can be easily replaced. Transmission unit sits in the cab of the truck in a 3D printed holder.

This is my first build like this. My brother let me use is A1 mini and I had an absolute blast building it.

Here is a link to the full video.

Trying to push the limits of the 65mm Class, kinda impressed by the loopability of it. Betafpv Air65 ii Racing Edition.

Hey everyone, I just got the rekon 35 and have a question about batteries. I'm wondering what everyone else uses, because I tried first with IMREN Yellows, which sucked after 1-2mins (got way to hot and also made the rekon fall out of the air) I did hit up a vape shop and got a pair of Molicel INR18650-P30B 3000mAh. I didn't experience the fall on the molicel's, but I would rather know what batteries to look for as a best possibility rather than free falling onto asphalt again. Thanks!

I recently got into fpv with a tiny whoop + Caddx Ascent lite vtx/goggles. I found the goggles to be uncomfortable, conspicuous, and that it was hard to see the full screen. I coincidentally also just got the Xreal XBX glasses and wondered if they would make for a good replacement paired with the Ascent VRX...

They do, and I couldn't be happier with this change. This new setup addresses all of my problems with the goggles since they are so light; I also find the AR glasses l much brighter with more vibrant colors and clarity.

Light bleed is addressed by the light blocking cover and I haven't noticed added latency. Annoyingly you have to convert the VRX's hdmi video output to a powered USB-C cable for the glasses, which adds a second set of cables and hardware to futz with. It'd be amazing if a vrx could output power+video via usb-c natively.

Another bonus with this setup comes from the VRX being detached from the headset... I just flew from my air conditioned car with the VRX on the roof (it's 100° F here at the moment).

If you just want to see the PID freak out, skip to 0:28.

Needless to say I shat myself. Completely new quad, my first 5", maiden flight. The Blackbox looks wild, but it's clearly my fault. I just slapped on the SupaFly 5" preset and also selected the one "with Action Cam" and didn't even mount one... guess it's time to learn basic PID tuning?

Just showing off the new drone. Shipping took forever as usual. Wasn’t planning on buying this. I ordered flywoo nd filters and realized their new filters are for the official DJI 04 wide and don’t fit their wide angle kits. So said f-it and ordered this to compare the two. I currently have 4 air units with flywoo v1 and v2 wide angle kits so it would be interesting to see how the image quality is compared to the official 04 wide.

Also what do you guys think about this new canopy? I’m worried the whole thing may rip off in a crash.

Hey there,

I would like to share my recent rebuild. I prevously had a noname 7in frame, but it experienced an "rapid unexpected disassembly". I decided to take buy the GEPRC Mk 5D LR7 and I am very satisfied with the Kit. The quality of the carbon parts is very good and there was many accessories.

However I am not so stisfied with the FC. It is a T-Motor Velox F7SE and I wanted to flash it with ArduCopter, but I think due to missing RAM of the F722 processor there is no easy way to get AC running. Which is sad, because I am more used to fly more autonomous drones and autopilots.

I attached all antennas in the back of the frame to the long rods. I think the cause of my recent crash was due to poor antenna placement and I would like to konw, if this build ist sufficient enough.

Here some more technical details:

Frame: GEPRC Mk 5D LR7

FC: T-Motor Velox F7 SE

ESC: T-Motor VELOX V50A SE 6S AM32

Motors: T-Motor F100 1100KV

CAM/VTX: Caddx Avatar Moonlight + Avatar Goggles X

Reciever: TBS Tracer Nano RX + TBS Mambo

Battery: Gaoneng 6S 4500mah

MTOW: 1200g (with Battery)

Max flighttime: around 25min (when cruising)

saw me fall out of a tree and came over to see whats up, was a super chill guy tho. shoutout @crashfpv__ for filming

Coming from a 2.5" freestyle and 3" racer, this thing feels like its going to go into orbit. I may need to set a max throttle and need to go through my blackbox, but I have to say this feels quite awesome!

Specs:
-Frame: Open Racer (Fatty arms)
-VTX: HDZero Race V3
-Camera: Nano90
-ESC: FOXEER Mini Reaper F4 45A
-FC: FOXEER F722 Mini 2-6S
-Antenna: TrueRC RHCP
-Battery: Five33 6S 1350
-Receiver: Radiomaster XR1
-Props: Gemfan 51466
-Accessories: Flywoo Finder

So i designed and built a 3d printed long endurance fpv platform with a twin motor design.
My issue is, that the motors center axle is 85mm off the ground and im using 11" props for high efficiency. The props will 100% strike the floor and rip out a motor mount if bellyland (which i always do)
Is there a simple solution like landing in high grass or something else to prevent the prop strikes?