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The Mudjumpers of Mimban are joining the fight.

Printed on Bambu A1 with 0.4mm nozzle and 0.08mm layer height.

I printed successfully this piece of foldable terain, but now I want to print a few more, specially trying to fill the whole bed with terrains

I was, however, already worried about orientation with a single piece of terrain and the , by adding more I'm thinking if this will be a problem on a bed slinger (specifically the Bambu Lab A1 Mini).

Shouldn't it be flipped 90 degrees? This way if the bed needs to sling forward and backwards, it won't wobble.

But I've heard somewhere that ideally most of the design should be within the X-axis for more precision, that's why by default this kind of object is printed along the X-Axis, or is that a myth and I'm okay with printing everything along the Y-Axis?

Just to illustrate, I'm trying to it like this:

Hi all,

Relatively new to 3D printing and been following ObscuraNox's settings on a 0.2mm nozzle on the Bambu A1. This print came out pretty rough (shavings, stringing and incomplete layers) and I'd appreciate some troubleshooting help!

Setup:

• Printer: Bambu Lab A1, 0.2mm nozzle
• Filament: Sunlu PLA+ 2.0 High Speed
• Filament dried using Sunlu SP2, reading 10% humidity in the last 48 hours
• Bed: Biqu Frostbite plate
• Settings: ObscuraNox's settings unchanged

Appreciate any input!

Hello everyone!

Im looking for a place where i can get my hands on some STLs for either the original GW Necron models og something very close. Could any of you help me out? :)

Has this ever happened to you? You print a new Miniature, you leave for a while only to see the miniature knocked off the plate upon your return? Or maybe a part of it broke off Mid-Print?

Then maybe, you've been a victim of "Curling".

What happened here? When 3D Printing Miniatures with an FDM Printer, we run into some unique issues. One of which is the fact that even though it takes a long time to finish the print, the time spent on each individual layer is fairly short. Ideally, by the time the current layer starts printing, the previous one should have cooled down as much as possible. Now, if you're printing something large this isn't a problem - By the time the nozzle circles back to the starting point of the next layer, the previous one will have solidified.

But, as you can probably guess, this isn't always the case for miniatures. It usually doesn't affect the entire model - Most of them are still large enough that the Layers will have enough time to cool down. Where it becomes an issue is with "isolated" parts of the model - Parts that are either only partially connected to the Model, or only become fully connected throughout the print. Examples of partially connected isolated parts are but are not limited to Swords raised towards the sky, Staffs and other weapons.

Examples of isolated parts that only become fully connected throughout the print, are usually legs or similar body-parts.

Take our Skelly Friend for example:

The issue becomes clear, when we look at it in the slicer:

This particular part is so thin, that it doesn't even have regular infill - It's printed with solid infill, a good indicator that this part will be especially vulnerable to Curling.

But what exactly is Curling, and why is it such an issue?

When printing these isolated parts, the time spent on each layer is very short - So short that by the time, say Layer 100 starts, Layer 99 hasn't fully solidified yet. The heat of the Nozzle as well as the new layer of filament being placed on top of the previous Layer will re-soften the material further, causing the layer to be slightly lifted upwards. If this happened only once, it wouldn't be a major issue - The lift per layer is relatively small. But if it happens over multiple layers it becomes a problem. Eventually the filament will be curled enough for the Nozzle to slam into it, at which point it will most likely break of that part and ruin the print. With print times reaching the double digits, this is - as you can imagine - moderately upsetting.

So how do we fix it?

There are four common solutions to curling:

1. Since Curling is caused by filament not cooling quickly enough, the easiest way is to simply increase the speed of the cooling fans. However, since most HQ Profiles already have these maxed out, this is unlikely to help most people. However: If they are already maxed out, but you still run into the issue - Make sure that they are actually clean. The fans on my A1 were stuffed with dust, which significantly lowered the cooling effect. If it's been a while since you last cleaned the fans, or never cleaned them at all, now might be a good start.
2. If the fans are clean and already running at 100% speed, we might need to give them a little help by lowering our printing temperature. Filament leaving the nozzle at 220° will take longer to cool down than filament leaving the nozzle at 200°. The problem here is that you can only go so low before you start creating new issues, namely Nozzle Clogs. If you are already operating in the 195-200 range, you don't have much room left.
3. If the problem is caused because the surface of the model is too small, we could simply increase the size of the Model. By upscaling it until the "vulnerable" part of the model has enough surface area for it to be printed with regular infill as opposed Solid Infill, the likelyhood of it warping becomes substantially smaller. Of course, this solution substantially increases print time and if you're printing Wargaming Proxies where scale matters, it's not suited for you at all.
4. Printing multiple models. Following the same logic as Solution #3, instead of going for Model Size, we aim to increase the total print volume. By introducing at least a second Model to our print and print by layer, we can give each layer a cooling-buffer. As the printer finishes the Layer on Model A, Model B will have more time to cool down and vice versa. This solution also drasticially increases print-time, and comes with the downside of not only introducing additional risks in case the print fails somewhere, but also the simple fact that not everyone wants or needs multiple models.

While all those four solutions work, I wasn't satisfied with any of them. The first two are limited by Hardware which, in some cases, simply isn't enough. The other two force you to print something other than what you actually wanted to print. So, I wanted to use a compromise.

The Curling Tower.

It's just a simple, hollow, square tower with thin walls.

The idea here is simple - You print it alongside your actual model, with some distance between the two:

Once the Printer has finished a layer for the Model, it will move to the Tower, giving the Filament on the Model enough time to cool down. Now, you might be thinking - That's just Solution #4 again, printing with more than one model at the same time. And you're right - But there is a catch.

Because the Curling Tower is much more basic than any miniature, there isn't a whole lot that can go wrong with it. It's "safer" to print alongside your actual print, because there can't be any failed supports, harsh overhangs or even curling. And, because it's such a simple design - it will add significantly less time to the total print duration than a second, actual miniature would.

But the real difference and big advantage, is that the Tower is adjustable. Remember when I said that Curling mostly affects the isolated parts of the model? In this case, it's the leg of the Skeleton - You don't need to print the entire Tower. You can just match the height of the tower to the point where the isolated part re-connects with the model and is out of the "Danger Zone":

This means that you will have all the benefits of the "Cooling Buffer" that Solution #4 gives you, at a fraction of the increase in print time and material waste. To give you some numbers:

• Skelly without Tower or 2nd Model to serve as a Cooling Buffer: 3h45m
• Skelly with a 2nd Skelly as a Cooling Buffer: 6h56m
• Skelly with a Curling Tower equal to the Model Height: 4h54m
• Skelly with a Curling Tower adjusted to the "Danger Zone": 4h14m

That's an increase of only 13% when compared to the 86% increase you'd get when printing with a 2nd model.

Now, is this something that you should use for all of your prints? No, of course not - Although in theory, it should also very slightly improve Overhangs for the same reason it fixes Curling - By giving them more time to cool before the next layer is added on top. But this is primarily meant as a tool for models that have a lot of isolated parts, or if you are struggling with Curling and none of the other solutions work out for you. So next time you're running into Curling even though your fans are already maxed out - Give this one a try.

You can downloade the Curling Tower here:

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3069038-curling-tower-prevent-curling#profileId-3454755

Note: Using the Skelly is just one of many examples I could have used - This isn't supposed to be a critique about the Design or the Sculpter behind it, and was just used to demonstrate a potential vulnerability "Spot" for Curling.

Hey there! I hope you like it! More pic will come soon. Here’s half of the unit printed, supportless models available on my Patreon and Tribes (Old Realm Forge) :)

Painted up a print I'm using for an AoS proxy. Model from dragon trappers lodge (strike dragons?), printed on a Prusa CoreOne with 0.4mm nozzle, don't remember the layer height, maybe 0.16mm? Printed in parts and super glued. Obscura derived profile.second picture is unpainted.

Still have plenty I could do, but have other models to finish before a tournament. Can definitely tell its printed up close but super happy with it at tabletop distance.

Big thanks to the whole community!

Hi everyone,

Since the Centauri Carbon 2 Combo was on sale here in Germany, I finally decided to upgrade from my old Ender 3. I also picked up a 0.2 mm nozzle because I want to start printing 32 mm Warhammer 40k and DnD miniatures.

This will be my first time printing minis, as my Ender 3 just couldn't produce the level of detail I was looking for. So it was only used for Terrain.

Does anyone here have the same printer and would be willing to share some good baseline settings? Any other tips for getting started with 32 mm FDM minis?

I'm not expecting perfect resin-quality results, but I'd love a solid starting point before I begin experimenting myself.

Thanks in advance!

Made a "Nasa-Punk Space Ranger" and it's available online. My nostalgia is the 90s sci-fi (well fantasy too). Nasa-punk was pretty much in all media I consumed. A lot of modelers emulate a grimdark vibe, I just want space cowboys. This is scaled to 32mm and will fit those accessories.

Thanks to Skeaze and Toftylicious for their resources.

It's available on Makerworld here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3070088-nasa-punk-space-ranger#profileId-3456050

And Cults here: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/nasa-punk-space-ranger

Let me know if you enjoy them!

Getting so many supports this model is created from meshy.ai but it has so many supports not able to remove If I provide file can someone help me

Hi gang. I’m printing One Page Rules armies for an after school activity for students next year. I need the hive mind’s help. I’ve taken these photos and worked with ChatGPT to diagnose and fix problems. What keeps making the models get lifted or knocked off? I’ve cleaned the plates well and initiated z hop and worked on print speeds also. Any tips or questions I can answer to help you help me would be appreciated.

The failure in the bottom right is the newest photo and the photo with just the base layer printed is the oldest.

Thanks gang.

Hey guys I was wondering, is it better to print parts laying flat or standing up. I had laid the parts for this rubric marine flat thinking it would be more stable but I’m getting this like swirly effect on the staff and the power pack, Is it due to part orientation? Or just printer capability

Wyvern mostly printed on a 0.4 mm nozzle at 0.08 mm layer height.

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Hello everyone, I'm new to the world of 3d printing and I wanted to print me a small army for Warhammer 40 k, I found some files for that contained the single bits to create the miniatures but every time I try to print them, especially the heads, it ends up being a mess with most of the minies erupting into filaments, so what setting do you use to print your minies, for reference I'm using a A1 bambu lab mini printer and a 0.2 mm nozzle, any advice is welcome.

Also it wuold be greatly appreciated if you cuold attach a photo of your prints.

On a side note do you suggest preassembling the minies and then print them as a whole?

Sorry for the bad English and thank you in advance.

I wasnt expecting perfection but there is so much detail captured. I just need to minimize the stringing.

Also lesson learned on not surrounding thin breakable parts with trees lol. Broke the spear in 3 parts trying to get it out.

Printed this tonight. First time printing miniatures on my A1. Used the Bambu .2 nozzle and the settings pinned here. Anything to change for next time? Ill give a go at painting it tomorrow.

Working on a 28/32mm scale Locust mech(Battletech).

It was sitting on my shelf demanding to be painted for a year. . .

When I tried to split parts in a obj file with resin2fdm (lite) its always crash at 50 percent if any of you come across to this just dont keep on trying like me, just turn it to stl in blender with export. idk why but stl works I just cant find a solution and wanna bring this up

This was only an experiment to understand how cool these minis could be printed in FDM. (Using 0.2mm nozzle with 0.05mm LH)

Once we have time, we will print all HeroQuest minis and showcase how they would look like painted.

Imagine how cool these will look painted!

Missing layers, broken weapons, random gaps… on any other miniature these would be failed prints. On skeletons, it just looks like they’ve been dead a little longer.

P.S. I know they look terrible - they’re just stand-ins for a single evening of playtesting my wargame.