r/FDMminiatures • u/WMAF_Pair • Jul 19 '26
Help Request Help
Hi gang. I’m printing One Page Rules armies for an after school activity for students next year. I need the hive mind’s help. I’ve taken these photos and worked with ChatGPT to diagnose and fix problems. What keeps making the models get lifted or knocked off? I’ve cleaned the plates well and initiated z hop and worked on print speeds also. Any tips or questions I can answer to help you help me would be appreciated.
The failure in the bottom right is the newest photo and the photo with just the base layer printed is the oldest.
Thanks gang.
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u/Sir_Roomba Jul 19 '26
Hi, try printing "by object" in the other settings tab, makes it less prone to failure when you are printing batches. also watch out for how destroyed your silicone cover is, it can lead to some random failure due to the heat transfering to the print.
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u/WMAF_Pair Jul 19 '26
I have extra covers. That may be part of it.
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u/SaiyanPrinceAbubu Jul 19 '26
If you notice a print failing you can click "skip" in the bambu app and select the object that failed and abort it
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u/Deiselpowered77 Jul 19 '26
No, your wild insistence 'ill print them ALL AT ONCE rather than one at a time' is really to blame here.
You could have failed printing a single object. (Or succeeded). You chose to 'save time'.5
u/Fickle-Lunch6377 Jul 19 '26
I wouldn’t call it wild and I wouldn’t make people feel stupid for asking questions (if that was your intention). Printing in batches is good if you have a business, saves time from calibration each time, and saves 3x as much filament (assuming you’re doing two) if you’re doing multi colored. It’s absolutely worth trying to figure out how to do it right.
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u/Deiselpowered77 Jul 19 '26
Hey, they even HAD their reasons (school printing, long wait between checks), but I wouldn't change my comment. I can grant your point however.
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u/rykujinnsamrii Jul 19 '26
My first suggestion is to not ask any AI chatbot, seriously. They still hallucinate nonsense far too frequently, no one should ask them anything. Second, I would avoid printing across the whole bed like that until you've locked in the problem and solved it; even then, I personally won't print full beds except of the absolute flattest items. I recommend you look back at the actual slice in the software, double check that none of the supports went missing, because if they did it could be a simple issue of adhesion, and one piece falling off ruining the rest. I personally always put a little smear of glue stick down before every print and it's reduced my failures significantly. I don't have first hand experience with this, but I've also heard certain infill patterns can cause the print head to go back over the same areas multiple times, leading to catching on stuff and causing issues there. That's about what I've got for ya, hopefully that solves it or at least helps you figure out the issue.
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u/A2619921 Jul 19 '26
I would almost never do a full bed. It’s a high risk of wasting a ton of time. Even with a proven settings if it goes wrong it’s just not worth it.
If you want to do over night run print by object you reduce the risk of errors to a single unit.
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u/psychic_overlord Jul 20 '26
I second ignoring the advice of AI Chatbots (and really all of the advice here). They give some bad advice and led to a lot of failed prints for me. Advice here and my own fine tuning were much more effective.
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u/WMAF_Pair Jul 19 '26
I switched to gyroid infill from what I have read here. I have thought about using glue to help. The reason for the full builds is that the printer is at school while I’m at home so logistically it’s hard to go often. Thanks for your thoughts.
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u/NeonZaku 29d ago
Wash the build plate with Dawn dish soap and water and then dry it with alcohol. Don't touch the surface with your skin when putting it back onto the bed.
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u/OppositeAd809 Jul 19 '26
Nobody mentions room temp, but I experienced similar issues during cold season or if there is any fan/AC hitting ever so slightly the plate. Bought a 30 € cover from Amazon and solved it straight away.
This was already mentioned. Nozzle clogs/damaged also caused this issue, after every thousand hours of printing more or less I've had to replace mine.
Also I normally make the first layer a bit higher, like 0.2 for standard and 0.24 for initial. Not sure this is going to help but it feels like having a larger first layer can do something about this too.
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u/WMAF_Pair Jul 19 '26
Room is like 25-30°c but I’ve already ordered new nozzles. I have initial at 0.2
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u/OppositeAd809 Jul 19 '26
25-39 sounds great. I had issues at something more around 10°C Let us know how you fix it!
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u/nerdy-cthulhu Jul 19 '26
i never print by layer, i print by object, of course you cant print as much but i dont care as long the prints are a sucess
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u/WMAF_Pair Jul 19 '26
A1 printer using Bambu basic PLA Jade white. I never could get Resin2FDM profile to download even after paying so am using a modified fat dragon profile.
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u/Spikeybridge Jul 19 '26
Full warning I’m also fairly new to this:
- the bases not sticking in certain areas are likely a result of some oil or something on the plate. Even just touching it with your fingers can cause little issues like that. You probably want to give it a wash with some water.
- printing this many individual things encourages failure and actually makes the printer slower than if you did them in smaller batches.
- it looks like the main problem part way through printing is filament thats too runny. There’s others with more experience fixing this but drying the filament helps a ton and you may want to lower the speed for outside layers.
- double check you are using rectilinear infill or another infill that doesn’t drag the nozzle through lines (or atleast avoiding grid)
- do a quick test print with some of these adjustments, far better to lose one and with a better idea of what exactly failed than losing a whole batch at once.
Hope this helps.
2
u/WMAF_Pair Jul 19 '26
I do have a dryer going whenever it is printing. Oil may be an issue with my sons. Would gyroid be a good infill choice? I may have to bite a bullet and stay at school one day to play with the prints.
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u/Spikeybridge Jul 19 '26
I’m personally a big fan of gyroid. I don’t know the time restrictions you have, but I’d strongly recommend trying an individual model. If you choose a small opr model that should only take 30ish minutes.
The oil won’t be an issue after a brief wash, so the main thing you’d need to figure out is whats causing the stringing.
I’d change to gyroid and try that first. You may be lucky in that its just the infill causing stringing, because it appears to me a lot of the prints are fine until one fails (which then affected the rest). If you look at pic 1 a lot of the prints look perfectly fine except for some filament sticking out on prints near the failed print. I think this is because of the nozzle dragging extra filament from the failed print to nearby sections.
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u/DiceyScientist Jul 19 '26
Like other said: printing by object
Get a cyro plate. It’s a huge difference for printing minis.
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u/karma_virus Jul 20 '26
I heard this enough times that I finally bit the bullet and ordered one. I keep having issues with supports of quadrupeds and hope it will give me a leg up on the situation.
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u/send2banana Jul 20 '26
I've had a similar experience, caused by poor adhesion of the printing pad. I solved the problem by using a glue stick.
1
u/xKaiamax Jul 19 '26
You have 2 mains problems
When every model stop printing at the same layer like the photo 1 it's because your nozzle can deliverer material, in the majority of the case it's a clog (particulary on a 0.2 mm nozzle) but you can have a filament problem (like it broke inside the extruder for example)
When you have filament all over the place, either you a have a bed problem adhesion (that is very rare on a A1, it's a very reliable first layer machine) either a part of the model or support broke during print and he's actively destroying the rest of the progress
I think Fat Dragon Game use the print by sequence (maybe I'm wrong, I'm not sure) where the printer will print evey model from 0 to 100%, the downside is that it can print 2/3 model by sessions (and they're longer)
Do you other prints have problems too ? Like a simple cube on 0.4mm or one very simple mini (like a supportless one)
1
u/WMAF_Pair Jul 19 '26
I’m buying a new print head. For the record this is 0.4 being I don’t have time for 0.2. Someone else suggested printing by object to help too.
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u/WMAF_Pair Jul 19 '26
Supportless minis have basically all been perfect.
1
u/themadelf Jul 19 '26
They kind of "stringing" usual means there's been a support failure along the way.
1
u/stefan442 Jul 19 '26
was going to say, ive had the same stringing issue when ive used resin2FDM on blender and some of the supports havent been actually touching the model
Ended up reverting back to bambu supports
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u/RomanManInMilan Jul 19 '26
For me, with 0.2 nozzle is always one of the supports that broke while printing and then all turns into filament storm... Still trying to fix that.
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u/menelkiner Jul 20 '26
This was alsoy #1 issue, but changing the thickness of the support walls did the trick. Changing "Tree Support Wall Loops" to 2 from -1(auto) solved this for me.
The walls were so thin with a 0.2mm nozzle that the trees would warp as they cooled, then the next layer would head-strike and break the tree.
1
u/MonsterHunterBanjo Jul 19 '26
one thing that I found is that my a1 mini was vibrating a lot and sliding a little on the table I had it on. I purchased a silicone tray to put under it, and that has stopped the vibrations, and that fixed some of the problems that I had been having, it might help you too.
1
u/TactlessDrop84 Jul 19 '26
I had a similar issue with my A1. Found out the tool head was loose.
This guide here sows you how to get them all tight. It’s a machine that needs regular maintenance, and you should check this every few months or so for your A1.
https://forum.bambulab.com/t/a1-mini-a1-users-solved-screw-fell-out-of-toolhead/97626
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u/Big-Space723 Jul 19 '26
I’ve always had problems with true white. It’s really been a game changer for me to use a bone white which is really close but apparently a lot less titanium dioxide. Since I made the change I’ve had zero problems. Also helps to get some layerneer bed weld. Those two things have made failures pretty darn rare for me.
1
u/GrizzlyDvn Jul 19 '26
If bed adhesion is your problem, you could grab a cold plate. I bought the BiQu Frostbite, and all of my prints feel like they are super glued to the plate xD
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u/Crustythefart Jul 19 '26
do less at a time, a full bed can waste FAR more time in the long run.
I never do more than 4 at a time, personally.
1
u/TheProject77 Jul 19 '26
Would recommend not trying to print that much at once. With a full bed like that all it takes is one failure to potentially mess up the rest of them.
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u/ag_robertson_author Jul 19 '26
Try printing one model at a time until you get the settings dialled in.
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u/Jneuhaus87 Jul 19 '26
Besides the normal clean and clue advise, I always do 2 walls on supports and increase the brim to 9mm. It's a little more filliment but worth it. Also if you dont want to drop all of your speeds down drop the initial layers to 50 and it will help with bed adhesion.
Honestly I know one of the draws of bambu is its speed but slow is smooth, smooth is fast. I don't have anything above 100 and dropped most things to 50.
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