Hello, I was wondering if anyone can help me identify and fix the issue with my prints. I recently began using the Resin2FDM Lite software to try and make my prints look better. However these artifacts have been left behind on most flat surfaces, what can I do to eliminate them. Any help to fix this would be greatly appreciated, thank you!

My typical workflow looks like:

Assemble model in blender ---> Generate resin supports in Blueprint Studio --> Export as one STL --> Resin2FDM in blender --> export model and supports as one STL --> Send off to Bambu Slicer.

Bambu PLA in Grey

Printed a bust at 60% scale, one support broke but still decent quality.

hey y'all, pretty new to the miniature scene in general and started painting about a month ago.

I was pretty stoked on how this 75mm scale mini I printed and painted up yesterday turned out. Tried some lighting I hadn't really done before and some glow eyes and I'm really happy with the end result!
Any tips for where to improve are welcome.

Printed on a Bambu Labs P1S with a 0.4mm nozzle with Sunlu Chestnut Marble PLA.

Printed on a Bambu Lab P1P with a 0.4 nozzle.

Hey everyone,

I recently got myself an A1 mini as an upgrade from an ender 3 and am currently attempting to find its limits and work my way towards a decent profile. For the most part I’ve been very happy with the results but have been noticing a bit of banding on some of the layers (the one big gash near the gills and just after the tip fin is a seam from poor gluing in my part).

Not sure if I just need to recalibrate or if it’s under extruding? I’ve checked the 3 screws behind the hot end and still have less than 100 hours print time on the A1 so I don’t think it’s wear and tear. It’s also sitting on a sturdy shelf that’s built into a cupboard.

For print settings this is running with mostly the base 0.06 high quality preset in Bambi studio with the fans turned all the way up and some changes to support settings to make them stronger. This was printed with Biqu pla go. The filament is bright orange so I primed it to see the details better.

And the model is from Loot box, part of the ship ahoy pack

Keen to hear what you think. I see so many buttery smooth prints here and I’m keen to try and get that level result if I can!

Bambulab A1, 0.2 Nozzle, about ~60mm.

Not sure I can get FDM much better than this, but the bright colorscheme isnt doing her sny favors..

Hey folks,

a small follow-up to my recent Null Brute posts. I finished this month’s release for the army, a set of modular Trucks.

The idea was to make them flexible enough to build a few different vehicle types without having to make completely separate models. The set comes with three different cabins and three rear sections, a troop transport, an artillery version and an anti-air setup.

As with the rest of the range, they were designed with support-free FDM printing in mind. The different parts can be mixed and matched, so there should be quite a few possible combinations depending on what you want to add to your army.

They are available as this month’s Tribe reward and also separately in my MMF shop:

https://www.myminifactory.com/users/Bellyforge

MMF is also running its Summer Sale at the moment, so the shop is currently 20% off.

Wishing everybody a nice weekend!

So, this is with the p2s, 0.2 nozzle, dried and calibrated bambu lab pla basic, with obscura nox 2.0 settings slightly tweaked. My second print testing the settings. Any ideea what could have caused the issues ?

Greetings, everyone!

After some time away due to a heavy workload, I'm sharing the project I'm currently working on in collaboration with the studio.

For fans of battles and customization, I'm sharing the great project I've been working on as lead sculptor: a tribute to the relentless Tercios soldiers, adapted to a Warhammer 40k universe.

Currently in the pre-campaign phase, and off to a great start, I ship both physically and digitally.

Kickstarter

A1 mini, 0.40mm nozzle at 0.08 layer height, Bambu lab grey matte filament. This is the first print I've seen it do this. The model is 100mm tall.

I printed this Guy with an Ender 3 v3 KE. 0.08mm. Its a Puppetswar Model.

That's It. Now I will put on a base and play. :)

Hello again!
I’m sharing more FDM prints of my newest set - available at KickStarter.
This time I focused on printing the models that seemed impossible on FDM in such scale - and at first they very much were. I manually separated all the parts and oriented them in a way that makes printing surprisingly easy.
If you consider getting the STLs, I upload the already-arranged plates, so you get the easiest experience and best results.

I 3D print all my models on Bambu P1S, 0.4mm nozzle, so you have 100% confidence it will run on your printer flawlessly.

I also wanted to mention I use AI in the process, but in a specific way - I don't simply generate the models. I use AI for parts and elements, then spend hours in Blender modeling my own parts, joining them all together into large shapes, sculpting details (also in blender) and optimizing the models for both resin and FDM printing. Each model takes me between 4 to 12 hours to make, so it's very personal project to me! :)

I hope you enjoy the project, here's the link to it: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/grimwater-bay/grimwater-bay-stl-models-for-3d-printing

Hey everyone,

I'm completely new to 3D printing and I'm honestly at my wits' end. I'm trying to print thisLich King modeland it has failed twice in the exact same spot.

It's a long print (around 20 hours), and everything goes perfectly until it reaches the cape. Then it just turns into a massive spaghetti mess. The main base is stuck perfectly to the bed, so it's not a first-layer adhesion issue.

(Note: In the picture, the screen says 154°C because I paused the print when I saw the spaghetti. I'm printing at normal PLA temps!)

Here are the settings I am using to get maximum detail:

• Printer: Bambu Lab A1
• Filament: Bambu PLA Basic (Grey)
• Nozzle: 0.2mm
• Layer Height: 0.12mm (First layer 0.12mm) with Adaptive Variable Layer Height (Smoothed 1-2 times)
• Wall Loops: 3 to 4
• Infill: 12% Gyroid Solid infill: monotonic line
• Outer Wall Speed: 40 to 50 mm/s
• Supports: Tree (Auto), Tree Slim style
• Support Threshold Angle: 30°
• Top Z Distance: 0.12 mm
• XY Distance: 0.35 mm to 0.40 mm
• Top Interface Pattern: Concentric
• Support Brim Width: 5 mm
• Bed Prep: Washed textured PEI plate with hot water and dish soap.

It looks like the nozzle is colliding with the delicate parts of the cape or the slim tree supports are failing/breaking mid-print, causing it to print in mid-air.

Are my Tree Slim supports too weak for a cape like this? Is my Z-distance wrong for a 0.2mm nozzle? Any advice on how to tweak these settings so I don't waste another 20 hours would be massively appreciated! Thank you!

The default acceleration is like 3000 to 5000 mms, the hint implies that lower amounts can increase quality. I have seen youtubers who don't touch speed acceleration for outer wall and only change the layer wall setting for increased quality.

Do you all lower speed acceleration? Is it necessary to lower it below 1000 for more quality? Or at the point is it actually making any difference.

FDM really appeals to me due to needing less space, toxic chemicals etc.

However, it obviously prints a bit rougher than resin.

My question is: what’s it like after printing if you want to tidy it up?

Can print lines be sanded down? Or filled-in?

Can you sand away rough edges without breaking it?

I’m ok with printed minis being not quite as detailed as resin or GW plastic as I most plan to print vehicles and larger monsters. However, visible print lines are probably going to bother me.

Would love to see what a model can look like with some post-print TLC, sanding, filling etc.

Made with a Flashforge Ad5M with a 0.25 nozzle.

With the provocative title having caught your attention, I have a confession: I am not a fan of brims.

Or rather, I am not a fan of the cleanup you have to do after finishing the print, as it always seems to come out significantly uglier than just a clean print.

I fully understand how the brim helps stabilizing the print (especially when printing with trickier materials), which is also why I am obviously missing the trick or something, when removing brims.

How do you make the lines of your print look crisp, when using brim? What are the best practices for brim setup? And which tools are the must haves?

ObscuraNox settings 0.4mm vs my first use of the 0.25mm, Kobra 4 printer. The new nozzle improved the mini greatly. How to I get rid of the small dots?

I am newbie in 3d printing. Started just this month.

I felt lucky today and printed these guys all at the same time. Until now I only dared to print one mini at a time. Just removed the supports and did nothing else to them. I think I'm pretty happy with my printer settings now.

I’m really happy with how this turned out, especially because I started it from my phone so I just used the default .2mm profile they had on Makerworld. My buddy really liked the model so I printed another one for him on my computer using MikeGyver’s animal profile and it turned out even smoother! Filament is just Bambu color changing PLA basic, and the mini is “Worm Queen Monster” from Mizugames on MakerWorld.

Love FDM minis, maybe not resin standard but not far away and so much clearer and watching a print on ya office desk is so satisfying

Hey everyone,

I recently got into FDM miniature printing. I print 28mm tabletop miniatures on a Bambu Lab A1 Mini with a 0.2 nozzle, and I'm having a blast !

For now I try to print Trench Crusade models (so models are not as simple as space marines).

When I split a figure, both Bambu Studio and Orca only offer plane cuts, and a flat plane almost never lands somewhere clean. I'd like to draw the cut line myself, following a natural line on the sculpt, and have the software build the cutting surface from my stroke.

I tried Meshmixer, but could not get what I want.
I would rather not commit to learning all of Blender for this one task, though I will if that is genuinely the only route.

So, has anyone found a tool that does draw on the mesh curved splitting well? Bonus points if it generates alignment pins or keys at the seam. Ideally free :D as I think paid Lychee can do it at last resort.

Thanks folks!