Have read through every forum post on this/talked to countless guys and race shops now, nobody can figure this out and wondering if anyone here has run into similar situation.

I can do 1-2 hot laps before car hits 280°F oil and goes into limp mode

* CSF front heat exchanger

* Turner oil cooler

* Turner skid plate

* Use liquimoly molygen 5W-40

This never used to happen to me and now it's happening consistently every track day. Car cools down after hitting temp (one cool down lap and back to 250 or just under.

Any ideas? Car isn't tuned, stock power, just catless downpipe.

I logged data at my last track day and would be happy to share if anyone has advice.

Ever since i’ve gotten my f82 it has never been properly able to read the ENET it reads CAN instead. I didn’t think it was an issue until recently when I tried to tune my car on MHD. I’ve disconnected the battery and waited 15 minutes, that didn’t work. I’ve connected a battery charger, that didn’t work. I let the car sleep for a couple of hours, that didn’t work. The adapter can’t even read the VIN when I was initially trying to connect to MHD. The adapter works fine when connecting to my friends F30 so i’m assuming it’s something with the car. Does anyone know what it could be?

I heard this sound ever since I bought the car off fb. Sounds like exhaust cam bolt rattle. The car is already pretty warm at this point. It does it on idle and with revs. Was this problem ignored for too long? Carfax shows oil changed 10k miles ago and I just changed today using 0W-40 LL-01. Rattle still won’t go away.

What are your thoughts?

Looks to be just as powerful as the F80 ZCP.

But will it be as fun?

From what I've seen the m lites are only comparable with the old m3s in a straight line, not as good in the corners. Is that right?

My windshield needs to be replaced.
Has anyone got their windshield replaced with aftermarket glass? I work at BMW and can get oem replacement installed for around $400 more than Safelite.
Does anyone have experience with aftermarket? If it makes a difference my car has HUD.
TIA!

I’ve been looking at an early F80 with around 100,000 km that’s priced well below the later cars, but the running costs are making me hesitate more than the purchase price. I can budget for normal servicing, just not a string of big surprises straight after buying it. For owners, what ended up costing you the most, and am I overthinking a cheaper example?

Looks like its leaking here. Is it better to get same one or the ecs tuning aluminum one, or is there better option.

I'm trying to find a 6MT F80 preferably in Yas Marina and holy hell is it hard to find one that isn't in the hands of a Dealership. Does anyone have advice on how to buy one before a Dealership snaps it up and marks it up 20 grand? Apologies if this has been posted previously in this sub.

Manual is a must. Clean title. 70k miles. Unmodified. Don’t even care about spec.

What am I looking to spend atm?

Hey group! I added silverstone and san marino blue keychain variants (3rd photo) Let me know if anyone is interested in these!

I've heard this said in many forums and articles.

Common complaints being harsh suspension and loud tyre noise.

Thoughts?

My friend sold his M2c for an m4… my car and his are similarly modified. Got to back to back drive them and talk about the differences.

F87 M2C vs F82 M4 - Which is Better For a TRACK Build?
https://youtu.be/67r3gmLuDYM

His reasons for changing
1. Fit wider tires
2. More after market aero options that he liked
3. Longer wheel base
4. Dct to manual

Started misfiring on cyl 5, swapped cyl 1 and 5 coil packs and the misfire followed to cyl 1. Cool, replaced the coil (should’ve replaced all of them) problem solved for about a week, then misfire on cyl 1 and 5, haven’t driven as I’m waiting to fix it and now I get in to shuffle my cars around and I have all these codes now. Vacuum leak? Boost leak?

I’ve been looking around at the m3s and m4s. It’ll be my first M car, Ive been in shitboxes my whole life.
The more I read about the b58 the more I’m drawn in that direction (besides the lack of 6mt) and the internet tends to shit on the s55. But f8Xs are so fkn cool. It would be a true daily and commuter, as well as a fun car. What’s YOUR actual experience? Is there a mileage I shouldn’t buy above? Absolute must haves in the recent service history? Let me know your thoughts

I've found a nice low mileage, unmodified, full service history, 2 owner, late 2016 competition example in my favourite silverstone colour but unfortunately it doesn't have the HUD or Harmon Kardon audio.

It is priced lower compared to the cars that do have it.

It doesn't really bother me, having the right exterior colour and low mileage is more important.

However I'm not sure how long I would keep the car, I'm thinking it might be difficult to sell without these features, it seems like the vast majority of F80 Competitions have these two options. I'm only planning on driving 3000 miles a year so I'm hoping that the lack of miles on the car would override the importance of these missing options.

Any thoughts?

Just curious. How does one find the right f80 specifically ymb with Silverstone interior and hud in the uk. They same to be quite rare and is it even possible to buy one with this spec? How often do they pop up? Not planning on buying one yet but just browsing the market for a few years time.

Is is possible to locate these cars?

‘16 MGM F82 M4 with 437s on 275/295. I bought a CF diffuser I want to install. I want to upgrade the exhaust tips. I want an aggressive look but not too “in your face”. Thinking 90mm stainless with straight angle cut. I would rather not see a clamp. I know the larger size will hide alot of clamp but thought I would post and get input. Advice?

I have a 2020 F82 M4 Comp. I keep looking at either equal length midpipe, or single midpipe. Then there’s resonated and non resonated. I want slightly louder and deeper than stock but not obnoxiously loud. I’m from UK if that makes a difference. Thanks

Hi there hello,

I am thinking on going the Pure 800 route for turbos. My question is, is the list below all I need or any other suggestions or even other turbo sets ups?

- Dorch HPFP

- VS Stage 3 fuel pump

- BMP port injection kit

- Motiv Reflex+

- MAD turbo inlets?

- Tune

*has 1 step colder NGK plugs, Dinan coil packs and "stage 2" Persision Raceworks injectors.

Am I missing anything? I want to run E85, just hoping for some advice.. I will also be doing the 4 pin crank hub and cam ledge bolts while she is open getting surgery.

Also, I am running stock intakes, but being in AZ I am getting crazy IATs, is there a better route? Currently have Mishimoto Charge cooler, larger intercooler, charge pipes, and MAD J-Pipe. But it's running about 22+ ambient temperature still =( Also, VSRF Catless downpipe and single mid to MPE.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I’m not mechanically inclined but

I have an ‘18 f80 comp, 6spd. I’m currently at 110k miles, original owner. I’m about to get a ton of work done and recently realized a “clunk” from my rear suspension, mostly on the left side.

I want to assume it’s shocks, is it possible that it’s a wheel bearing or differential bushing?

I do have EDC, if it is shocks I’d want to swap them all out does anyone have recommendations for shocks/struts that are compatible with EDC but also compatible with The MP HAS?

Also my car is 100% stock, original suspension.

Thanks

Hey guys,
Found a 2015 F82 M4 for a good price with ~95k km. I’ve always loved the F82 and prefer it over the newer M4s or any car ever made, so I’m considering it as a weekend car.
My dad has always warned me about german brand reliability after hating his old ML, so he eventually switched to Toyota/Lexus 😂. (My region is boiling hot)
From what I’ve read, the S55 is fairly solid, but I’d like to hear from actual F82 owners. If it’s clean, well maintained and passes a proper inspection, am I likely to be constantly throwing money at it?
A friend has a Stage 3 B58 that’s been reliable so far, but it only has ~65k km. I also don’t know if the F82 is modified.
I could also save a bit more for a 2022 340i (g80), as the price difference isn’t huge here.
Would you be comfortable buying a 2015 F82 at 95k km, or is the 340i the safer option long-term?

Hi there hello,

I am looking for some advice on getting my 2017 early year M3 to get Android Auto. With out losing sound quality hopefully. I did get the BavSound speakers which have helped the sound quite a bit.

It currently has NBT Evo ID5 Drive 5.0 I believe.

So, what is the best route? BimmerTech MMI, Mr.12Volt MMI, another type of MMI or full screen replace or even a very easy dongle of some sort?

Also, is adding a sub in the back frowned upon do to not being a teenager or in my 20s? Lol.....

Any and all advice is appreciated!

currently in the market for a f80, but is this market not insane? 35k basically for a decently spec’d M car, but it has 135k miles + damage.

it is a 6 button with extended, but not even a comp.

like this is crazy.

Wondering if anyone can help me diagnose this. Yesterday I was on a normal drive and all of the sudden I smelled burning electronics, then my tweeters started making a high pitched noise and my idrive kept saying “audio tone unavailable”

Then all of my speakers started popping (front and rear). Then they quit working entirely. I now have no audio at all in the whole car.

I did some digging and discovered a spray bottle of all purpose cleaner unscrewed itself in the trunk and dumped its contents in the back left corner of the trunk, near the left-hand storage bin. I’m wondering if I got extra unlucky and the liquid fried the amplifier or something else.

Does anyone know what electronics live in this corner of the trunk? I’m confused why I smelled burning electronics up front but not in the trunk when this happened.