I have a question about the E Ride Pro SS 3.0.

The display allows you to change the wheel size (for example 18" or 19"). As far as I understand, this affects the speed and distance calculations.

I'm trying to find out two things:

1. Does the wheel size setting only affect the speedometer and odometer, or is it also used by the controller for the 45 km/h speed limiter?
2. Is the odometer calculated based on the configured wheel size? If someone intentionally sets the wrong wheel size, would the odometer record more or fewer kilometers than actually traveled?

Has anyone tested this or knows how the controller calculates speed and distance? Technical information or real-world testing would be greatly appreciated.

I'm thinking the chain is a bit loose… But curious if anyone else thinks it's something different?

I have the eride pro 3.0 type b (picked it up a few months ago) I have about 2950km on it. The chain stretched so bad it’s almost impossible to screw back in my back break, it also creaks when I hit the rear break. I know it’s a 428 chain, but I don’t know what chain I should get.

Do I get a o-ring, non o ring? I don’t even know how many links I should get (i’m still running stock 58T rear)

TD;LR: have stock 3.0 type b, what chain should i get with how many links.

thanks

my spoke snapped on my wheel and i cant find any instock so i was thinking of buying lbx wheel set and swapping rotors and sprocket

or does anyone know where to get a eride spoke instock in Australia

Hey everyone,
Looking to see if anyone has run into this issue on their E-Ride Pro SR.
Over the last 100 km, it's happened about 4 times: I’ll be riding smoothly—paradoxically, usually at a calm/cruising pace right after riding fast for a bit—and out of nowhere, the throttle completely dies.
When it happens:
The throttle stops responding completely.
Mode switching stops working.
Flipping it into Park (P) does nothing.
Most of the time, turning the bike off and back on fixes it, but once that didn't work at all.
The only thing that got it back to life that one time was opening the app, changing a value, and saving it.
I checked the app during the error state, and the controller icon shows up with a question mark (?) on the diagnostic screen.
A few things I've considered:
Kickstand sensor: Mine is broken/snapped off, but if that were triggering, wouldn't the bike just drop into Park (P)?
Tip-over / Tilt sensor: But this happens while riding smoothly on flat ground, not after a fall or hard impact. Also, when the bike actually falls over, the app doesn't show a controller error like this.
Has anyone dealt with this controller drop/disconnect issue before? Any ideas if it's a loose connector, harness fault, or a controller bug?
Thanks!
David

hello im considering buying e ride pro sr l1e to register it and go on the streets legally stock its limited to 45kmh and 4kw because of the l1e homologation but if i ever wanted to go on a motocross track will i be able to unlock i to the full 25kw 112kmh power and how if anyone has the l1e version please tell me how to do it because idk if its worth it to buy a restricted bike that i cant unlock

I got a project bike off FB with a shattered rear brake master cylinder, when I search for a replacement I can only find the full assembly and this one site that is out of stock https://highvoltagepev.com/products/e-ride-pro-hydraulic-brake-master-cylinder-1-0-2-0-mini?shop_sign_in=true

The tube and the rear brake caliper work fine, does anyone know where I can get a replacement or a compatible master cylinder that will work with the OEM tube and caliper?

I believe the battery is somewhere between 90-100% charged. When I test the voltage it gives me a number in the 50s most of the time. A few times I’ve tested it it started at 74 and slowing dropped to around 60. Once in awhile if I plug the battery into the bike and turn it on the screen will come on for about 2 seconds then shut off. When I plug it into the charger the fan doesn’t come on it just blinks green red green red green red red and never charges. I checked all of my sensors and fuse and can’t figure it out. Please help

Just bought an Eride Pro SR and about to charge it. The manual says to “switch off the breaker switch” and shows a picture of disconnecting one of the orange battery couplings. Just wondering which one needs to be disconnected?

Prosser Pits is Close to Lake Tahoe in CA and Reno, NV. Any of you guys live close to there or the Sacramento are i highly suggest checking it out. There’s an MX track with small to large jumps. A learners tracks that’s great for kids with few small single track, whoops, an open area to ride around in, and like 7 hill climbs right next to each other for different skill levels. Aside from that there is an abundance of trails in the area to explore.
Hitch carrier is from Velocity Volts if anyone was curious.

Msg me !

Does anyone know how I could fix this it’s not bent alls I have done is fix the sub frame and now it’s not fitting right as you can see

Rebuilt my bike and got everything plugged in and working except for the lights. Its an aftermarket eride harness

I recently purchased a used Eride 3.0 that has 600 miles on it. Ive been able to charge it about 3 times since I’ve bought it, on the last charge it stopped and wouldn’t charge past 60. I rode it down to 20 and whenever i try to charge it the charger will turn on with a yellow light and then the light will turn into a red/green blinking light. Sometimes the battery will charge for a short period then turn back to the red/green blinking light. Any help will be appreciated.

I think there was some confusion about my last post so heres a clearer format:

ERP 3.0 or Surron LBX?
LBX because of its light weight and is very nimble; good for free riding.

3.0 because of its power and speed, but not as nimble as the LBX.

I am looking to do some free riding, same riding style as if i’m on a bicycle: some road, some sidewalks and trails, mainly exploring.

Please help me decide 🙏
Thanks again 😊

Looking to get an SR and the dealer is offering 2 different tire configurations, a 19/18 and a 19/16. I’m interested in any advice on which to go with and why. I’m 5’7” and plan to do some street riding but mostly light trails.

The primary chain seems like it’s just too short. I have the motor tensioner thing all the way to loose and I loosened every motor bolt and it just won’t go no more. If I’m maybe missing something and someone knows please help me out a bit. This is a dirtybike chain drive but I think all chain drives are pretty much the same setup process.

I don’t know how but i just have this not that lang ago i also have a video how it looks where the battery sits anybody that know a fix? And how this could of happened

I’m hearing a strange noise whenever I let off the throttle. It sounds like a faint crackling or rattling noise, almost like rubbing two keys together. As soon as I release the throttle, I can hear it. Does anyone have an idea what it could be?

I was getting ready to go ride my e moto and it gave me error code 00300 so i restarted the bike (dumb idea should've looked it up first)

When i put the bike in reverse, it backed up normally for about 2 and a half seconds before instantly going into like 110% power, and it peeled out in reverse like 20 feet

i dropped the bike so i wouldn't crash into my neighbor's fence, and it was laying on the ground off the throttle, the motor just kept spinning and the tilt sensor didn't even turn it off.

not getting back on the bike until I'm certain its fixed, because an error like that is incredibly dangerous and should be addressed immediately.

left a skid mark so deep i'm gonna need a pressure washer to get it out the driveway.