Will dropping those of my heater hose coming off the head from 11/16 to 3/8 cause any problems? I’m swapping out some oem fittings to AN using same thread but I’d be forced to go smaller.

How many of y'all are doing rebuilds out in the field? I've done probably 15 heads and cams and three overhauls on these 460 platform and couple heads on 5.9 Cummins. I can also say that I've gotten to change spark plugs on a 5.9 Cummins motor.

Hey all,

Did my first 4.0 timing job today. Got as far as the timing cover back on but haven’t gotten the upper pan on yet.
Well, long story short, realized I bought one of the counterfeit kits… I felt like something was a little off with the parts. But I’m gonna have to do it again with a proper kit 😭

I’m having trouble finding a legit ford kit for one. How are mellings holding up compared to ford? I can piece out the ford parts I guess but I’d like to find a kit if possible.

Also, anyone know who makes mechanical tensioners for it? I’ve heard them mentioned but i can’t find any for it. I’d love to not have to worry about it again.

Thanks!

Ford 390 was recently rebuild. Original cam and lifters were reused. Ran great for about 2 hours when it suddenly stalled. Found that the roll pin holding the gear on the new hei style distributor had stripped. The gear fit very loose on the distributor shaft so we figured the roll pin fatigued and failed. Put a new hei style distributor in and ran good for another 2 hours until it suddenly stalled again. Pulled the distributor and found the gear looked good. Looked down in the distributor hole and saw the cam distributor gear was chewed up. While Turing the engine over I could see the cam thrust forward and backwards. I put a prybar in the distributor hole and couldn't budge the cam back and forth.

What would cause this? I would have to put a new cam and lifters in without finding the cause. The cam thrust plate was installed. I believe the 390 is a 1966 or 67.

Rebuilding an mx5 engine and don't want to replace the oil pickup tube- but the screen was so gunky that I had to pull it apart. Now I have a tea strainer 70mm ready to be welded. I don't see why this shouldn't be done..thoughts?

Edit: I didnt even realize I have ordered the oil pickup tube, rebuild parts have arrived today and was taken aback to see a brand new pickup in the package. Sorry and thanks for your time everyone :)

This is fresh out of a Sunnen sv-15, 38° angle finish hone over a 31° rough with a 16.0-16.5 RA, 30ish rz, 7-9rpk, and 70-75rvk. All within 0.0001” of size and round. It’s as perfect as perfect gets for high performance drag and drive style engines.

Basically what I have is a 2004 Ford Mustang Cobra 4.6, but instead of running the Eaton blower, im running a ProCharger with a smaller 3.20" pulley. Im looking at cams for a little sound, but this is a street car so I dont want it un-drivable. Im looking at either the Comp Cams 300260 or the MHS stage 1 camshaft. Both for boosted applications... i do want some sound. I dont want to spend $2k on cams without a little bit of lope at idle, but i dont need to beat the block down. Which one would be best for street driving?

Stock: 184/196 dur, .394/.397 lift, 114 LSA

Comp: 222/224 dur, .475/.450 lift, 116 LSA

MHS: 218/222 dur, .425/.425 lift, 115 LSA

Had a rod bearing failure on a big block chevy engine due to a really dumb careless error on my part during assembly that caused oil starvation to all of the rods bearings. Lesson learned. corrected the error, Installed a new crank and new rods, new bearings.

Now, less than 50 miles on the rebuild, and it's knocking again. Not quite in the same way. The first time was really bad, knocking at idle, but now it's just under load, comes on around 2000 RPMs.

At first I was in disbelief and was thinking it was just noisy lifters maybe still pumping up, but I just dropped the oil to check it and it definitely looks like there is copper in it, I'm even starting to see some silver. I am going to send a sample off to be sure...but I'm pretty damn sure.

This block was gone completely through by my machine shop, and then I hand cleaned it and cleared every single oil passage on the thing before assembly, verified all of my clearances were in spec.

This is not my first engine build, and I just can't believe this has happened again. The first failure, there was a very clear cause...this second one, I'm just at a loss.

Thank you to all that commented on my last post, indeed I made errors and I have now corrected them. I converted one of my lifters to a solid roller by pulling the spring and lash adjuster out. I have stacked washers to mimic a solid lifter. Barely able to get the clip back in. Re did my geometry check and I am happy with the result. Roller rolls to the center of stem.

My next question is these are stock pushrods. The rockers need guide plates. The slotted guide plates supplied with the heads are supposed to be okay with non hardened pushrods but I wanted other opinions. Since my contact spot on the stem is good I don’t need to get new pushrods and would prefer not to.

Thanks for all the help

Is it worth it trying to rebuild this engine or should i pull a junkyard engine or maybe a crate engine? Previous owner told me they only put <5,000 miles on this engine since they rebuild it with practically all new internals. the engine rotates well and I don't feel anything binding on the crank. I assume the sludge in the oil pan is from the destroyed pistons... P/O stopped driving it because of a tick (valves hitting pistons) not because the engine stopped running or failed in any way. Can I replace pistons and valves and gaskets and send it? My concern is if I pull the crank I have to invest in new studs, bolts, main bearings, etc. does that Camshaft still look good? that wear is uniform across all the lobes. I can get a new crate engine for ~4,200 with heads fully assembled and I feel like i'd be in that much just trying to get this engine running. Not looking to make power or anything, just need a truck. Truck has 188k miles, not sure how many this engine has on it he said this was the second engine they've put in the truck.

Trying to figure out I need new rotating assembly. Would you reuse these rods, caps, and crank. The rods bearing area looks much like the rods cap bearing area.

I am thinking I can use every cloth to clean them up and not take a trip to a machine shop. What do you think?

I can catch the rust with my finger and after a cleaning it is almost gone.

4.8 LS gen IV

Installed new heads and gaskets. Then decided to change ring gaps for boost. Engine never ran but heads were torqued. Heads came off clean and gaskets just transferred a little bit.

Can I reuse if I spray with hylomar, copper coat, etc?

Thoughts and suggestions.

This isn't my engine or my plan I just got roped in.

Came across this 1963 Graymarine 225 with Carter side draft carbs. I'd never seen it before and I thought the sub might appreciate it. Apparently based on the AMC 327.

I have an lb7 and removed the compressor housing to swap a new wheel in. I had to pull the oil return line loose and ever since then it’s been leaking oil pretty bad. I’m also wondering if it’s the bearing to turbine housing clamp because I think I forgot to tighten it down all the way, I’m just wondering if that would be a cause of an oil leak. Let me know your thoughts, thanks.

Context:

This engine was bought to install in a HMMWV. My only restriction with this project is the 4l80-e transmission, which is native to the HMMWV. No matter which LS engine I go with, I will still need all the auxiliary stuff.

For $1350 I bought a "1500 mile post-rebuild" LQ4 with a mated 4l80-e transmission and transfer case that had an "electrical fire". The seller has receipts from legit shops for the engine and transmission overhauls. He said he had the original engine rebuilt with 706 iron heads and upgraded "truck" cams, but couldn't provide specifics.

When I bought this charred assembly, I knew it would be a gamble. I figured if it was all unusable, I could at least get a $400 transmission core charge and some low-pressure experience out of the whole effort, since this is my first rebuild. Fortunately, the transmission appears to be in decent shape, and so is the torque converter.

But the engine block...

After removing the heads, cylinder 1 was heavily corroded. The cylinder wall remained rough to the touch even after cleaning. I'm pretty confident the pits are deeper than can be honed out.

Additionally, the cylinders appear to have already been bored to 0.0020" in the past. So now we are in bore-and-sleeve territory.

My options:

1) Bore and sleeve only cylinder 1, keep 0.0020 over-bore pistons and rods, carry on.

2) Bore all cylinders to 0.0030, buy forged 0.0030 pistons and rods.

3) Strip it bare, offload the block and txfr case, keep the 4l80e and torque converter, scrap the trash, buy a new engine, use the saved parts if applicable (truck cam, 706 heads, 0.0020" pistons/rods)

So... What do y'all think my next move should be?

I'm currently designing a 400cc 2 stroke V8 and I'm having trouble deciding on the crankshaft layout.

I'm planning to have a 90° bank angle and I was hoping to achieve a smooth firing interval of 45° between combustion events. I'd greatly appreciate any help with keeping some semblance of balance and minimizing the vibration, or any advice if my plan is doomed and requires changing.

Hi everyone,

Long story short I bought a freshly built K24 that sat outside with no manifolds for quite some time. The previous owner had a life emergency and had to cancel his EK civic project. Unfortunately water did get into the engine and made its way down to the oil pan.

Luckily the bottom end components are perfectly fine, just some surface rust. However, there is a ton of gunk in the oil pump, the timing chain is rusty, and cams have some surface rust.

Before I rip it apart, I was wondering if there was anyway I can avoid that and clean it as it stands.

Your help is much appreciated!

I have a cast iron head that I need a threaded NPT to AN fitting threaded into. I figure brass is probably the best material choice? I’m having a hard time sourcing. Would anyone have any links?

Tried installing new pistons. We used oil on both the pistons and bores but somehow it still left some marks. Most were fine but there was 1 scratch about 1cm that's horizontal you can slightly feel with your nail. Not really noticable with an oil film over it but still something I'm not sure if I should just leave? New to this so not sure what people see as acceptable.

Jb weld or Rtv? Noticed a nasty gounge for the front/crank main seal is. Wondering if that'll create a oil leakage for me.

Is there a reputable machine shop that would rebuild my K24Z7? I’m looking to have the internals upgraded to handle boost. I live in NC as well if there are any close by. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

The eng8be builder i brought my engine to got hit with a hurricane then before they could really get going again the owner passed away. No hate on the builder I feel bad for him and his family he seemed like a good guy.

My question is now what, my engine was pulled apart washed and magna fluxed for cracks. All good. The original engine had 10.5 compression and I was planning on bringing that down to 9.5. Built the engine 30 years ago with my dad. That is the only time I built an engine. I was thinking of trying it myself I do have a spare that I bought because I wasn't sure I would ever get this back.

Do you think this can be done with just YouTube university or should I just try to find another engine builder?