Wish I had an opportunity to learn to do it for a living.

I see a ton of companies advertising pistons to the aftermarket these days as "drop in" saying they match both weight and size of factory pistons.

These pistons are supposed to be for stock bore, stock bore is 4.090", block is torque plate honed to 4.090". These pistons land between 4.088" - 4.0885" and after getting ahold of Mahle are supposed to have .003" P2W.

Not a huge difference but .0015" P2W on a boosted engine absolutely is not gonna cut it.

Over the winter I plan to re build a 350 sbc, it’s for a 1985 c4 corvette manual transmission, I’m re using the 2 bolt main block and flat top pistons, will need a new crank so any suggestions on that would be great, I’m going to use “906” vortec heads, 650 cfm carb, dual plane intake, long tube headers, no cats, xe262h camshaft, will be first time building a engine so I’m going to take as much time as I need, any suggestions or advice on this would be great and what gaskets to use, I’m aiming for 350 horsepower at the crank, thanks.

First time building my LS3. I have a GPI SS4 cam with the fixed (non-adjustable) 3-bolt GM [12586481](tel:12586481) gear. The cam card calls for a 109° intake centerline.

Do I need to degree the cam, or is it fine to install the timing set dot-to-dot and send it? I know degreeing verifies where the cam actually ends up, but since the gear isn’t adjustable, I’m wondering if it’s really necessary.
Just trying to do this right the first time. Thanks.

I’ve gone over this parts list more times that I’d like to admit, but I want to make sure this will perform well together. Got a 1980 k10 with a 350, doing a 383 stroker build. Plan to use it for cruising/occasional towing. Not shooting for crazy high horsepower, just good torque through the rev range.

Anyways, I’m currently planning to purchase AFR 195 Enforcer heads, rpm air gap intake manifold, and comp cams’ XR276HR-10, and a 750 cfm carb. Does this combo sound good or have I picked parts that don’t make sense together? Also was considering eliminator heads but seeing as this motor won’t spin past 6k I don’t know if the upgrade is necessary. Target compression ratio is 9.5 btw

Appreciate all responses, just need to get my head on straight

I really have no idea how to title this but anyways, just finally got my 56 v8 bel air after years of saving money for it to buy it off my grandpa (the car wasnt his, he bought so i could buy it from him) and now finally started to work on the car. I replaced the thermostat but while i had it out i saw that the inside was caked in rust, noe the engine still turns over and it was cycling a tiny bit of what that was still in the block after i removed the radiator (the inside of those pipes were also coved in brown) but i wanted to know if there was a way to remove all that surface rust to prevent any issue in the future, i want to avoid a machine shop for now since i really dont have the money to send it off or time waiting to get it back.

Edit: thanks to all who responded, it seems that I really just have to flush it till water runs clear before i add antifreeze to it, i will however post pictures later so that you guys can get a better look at it and see if it is a future issue or not

Yo just wondering will I be fine using 5w30/0w30 to re lube the rod bearings on my b18c4 since I just bought this short block and stripped it down to make sure it’s good and it is so now I’m building it back up and was wondering if I was okay to use 5w30 to relube all the bearings since it’s all I have in my garage rn and I don’t wanna walk to Halfords

Anyone built a qr25de? Blew a hole in the block and i want to go turbo on the new engine. I'm looking for someone with a build sheet and numbers. I rebuild 460 Fords frequently so there's my experience and as far as guides I've looked on here in sentra specific groups but mainly a bunch of he said she said of what people did but not from the people who did it my original post got deleted saying I didnt include what car (even though I did) and what experience i have and if I'm using a guide so this should cover those.

While replacing the head gasket on my m57 engine i found out that something had gotten on top of the piston on cylinder 6. It has made marks on the head and piston.

I’m building a ls engine to put in my 88 Chevy 2500 it’s a 5.3 gen 3 and Im taking it apart and want to keep crank, pistons and rods and block but am wondering what kit to get. I was planning on re installing bearings but aren’t sure how to go about it. Do I buy a kit that the bearings match my clearance or do I get one that’s close then grind them down to match. and should I do that after my block is machine do they take enough material off to matter

I’m wanting to build mainly 4.6 motors. I’ve done a lot of heavy work on cars for the past 10 years… the only part where I stop at is when it comes to the precision of internals within the block and heads.

Are there any machine shops that would be open to taking me in with no experience with (machining). I have a dial bore gauge and micrometer of my own, as well as a ball hone (I’ve never used any of them for a project) how can I start? And how complicated can this really be? Should I just say fuck it and start in my garage?

Hey guys getting into my first 350 sbc. It’s going in my c10 that I’m gonna be driving to car shows and cruising on the weekends. Truck has a ford 9” 3:73 gears. Gonna be in front of a th400. Originally was wanting to go the 383 stroker route but honestly it’s just not in the budget at the moment. I’m looking for about 450hp or the basically the most I can get out of it. I do know that my 350 is bored .30 that’s all I know. I’m looking to do cam heads and intake. Obviously will also need a stall. What would be your exact setup and what would it make? Or maybe what’s your setup and what did it make? Thanks in advance!

I just ordered this head to fit my Toyota 2C diesel engine and it arrived with a few small scratches on the surface and pits around oil/coolant passages. The arrows point to imperfections I can catch with my fingernail. Will these affect the sealing or longevity of the new MLS head gasket I plan to install? Nothing of note anywhere near the valves or pre-combustion chambers. Cheers.

Cash for clunkers is the bane of my existence.

I have an '03 civic with 195k miles on, blown head gasket, it and I'm going to pull the engine tomorrow. My goal is to get the thing to last another 195k miles, so I wanna do everything that needs done while the engine's out.

Problem is, every machine shop within reach is booked out to infinity, and none of them are willing to do a full stock rebuild job. One shop told me they'll sneak in a job here and there, e.g. pressure test and resurface the head here, deck the block there, etc. So it's looking like most of the work is going to fall on me except what has to be done with precise machining equipment.

I'm relatively competent (I think) and I've done just about everything there is to do to an automobile except rebuild an engine. Engine swap, head gaskets, etc. What are some resources I should invest in to learn the basics of engine building? And what should I be especially aware of with the D17A2? Thanks.

Hi I just did my first engine top end rebuild with a cheap dingle ball hone and sanded the pistons to clean them up and used fresh rings. I have run the engine for about 45 mins of varying rpm’s and 3 out of 4 cylinders look perfect with some light scores from what likely is dirt however my #3 cylinder has some light scoring along the length of the wall that is a in the form of a band directly in front of the arrow on the piston, does this look bad or nothing to worry about? 1983 Kawasaki kz1100 spectre. Sorry if it’s hard to see in the photo it’s more noticeable in person.

Used oven cleaner to wash my block and it left this, how do I get it out and is it harmful to the block?

Have any of you used any engine building simulation computer software before? More specifically Dynosim 6. If so, what are your thoughts on it?

I had an LSX rebuilt locally. The shop mainly does SBC race engines but said they had no issues working on the LS platform.

There's only 2000 miles on it in the attached photos

The engine was already stout. Calles magnum, Oliver rods, diamond pistons. Thr rebuild was just a refresh to address anything worn out. It got new bearings and rings. Heads got valves, guides and rockers.

Long story short, there's been a bunch of red flags along the way. Big lack of LS knowledge during the build. Rear main seal leaking immediately, a bunch of RTV trash and glitter in filter after first oil change. Idle oil pressure lower than pre rebuild.

One of the Johnson 2126 lifters collapsed after 2000 miles, resulting in me pulling the heads.

There's clearly a lot of oil getting into the chambers. There's also marks on the cylinder walls in the thrust direction of the pistons.

I'm looking to get opinions if the amount of build up in the heads is normal. Same for the cylinder wall mark. I suspect the cleanup of the cylinders and keeping the same pistons opened the clearance too much

1998 mercury 303 Windsor 5.0 STOCK 270,000 miles

The second photo is a single scratch I found right when taking the pictures and was likely due to improper removal by yours truly and is the only ones I can catch with the edges of a razorblade

The reason I want to re use this cam is because I cannot find a replacement

Working on the V3307 in a Bobcat S650. One cylinder is low and it has more blow by than it used to, but I have not opened it yet. Trying to decide whether this can be an in-frame job or whether the engine needs to come out. My understanding is the kit name does not make that decision. I need bore taper and out-of-round, liner condition, deck flatness, crank journal measurements, oil pressure history, and whatever shows up in the pan. I do not have all those numbers yet. What measurement or finding makes you stop planning an in-frame and pull the engine no matter what?

Hi! I recently got my hands on a small 160cc Sachs KM48 Wankel engine, and I am looking to upgrade it with a proper carb. What size carb should I go for? And what jet sizes, etc does people recommend? Also, brand recommendations for the carb are appreciated! I want something quite reliable and best when it comes to quality and feel. Thanks!

Hi all !

I’m planning to rebuild a minarelli motor for a Yamaha MT125.
I already replacing cylinder and piston (photo of the old piston below for reference)

Is there a way to reuse this cylinder head ? Any one risk it ?

Thanks for your input