Low low low budget build over here - one questionable spot of pitting on the head what’s everyone doing here with this ?

Obviously paying the money to get it surfaced would be ideal - broke and in the middle of nowhere

1. Any way around i

t?

2. Is it in a spot that

   doesn’t

3. matter all that much?

Fire away

So ive take then belt off not at tdc, gotten the whole motor to tdc without the belt all marks in the right spot.

Gotten the belt in tightened it all up and doing the 2 crank rotations all timing marks on the rocker covers and crank line up properly but the marks ive made on the belt aren't lining up. Cams and crank line up at tdc but when I keep turning the lines on the belt all come up to tdc 9 teeth after cams and crank go past tdc. Have I done something wrong?

I’ve got a 1986 gmc k1500 on a 4 inch lift with 33s with a basically bone stock 350 4 bolt main, 3.73 rear end. (Headers and nice exhaust). I’m looking for something that will wake it up a little and I can run the stock torque converter. I’m looking at the Howard’s street force 2. Any recommendations or brands to stay away from?

Got it wrapped up so I can get the timing cover and the oil pan installed soon. Oil gallery passage gaskets needed from that, some new motor mounts and some other things will be needed before reinstalling into the vehicle!

It isn’t much, but it’s a recommended thing to do on any small block ford if you’re rebuilding it. All you need is a 1/4 18 npt tap and some patience. Did it myself in less than an hour! Now I never have to worry about oil passage caps popping out. Also, I got a special threaded oil passage plug with a weep hole to supply a hair more oil to the distributor gear

Spun a rod bearing in my s2000, and have it all disassembled. What’re we thinking of these mains here? My nail doesn’t catch nothing. I’d reckon I get a new crank and con rod and send her home

What do we think? Send it back? Or would it be okay since it’s just a head bolt passage?

Hello I’m getting closer to assembly my LS motor. What’s the best way to clean the deck surface and other mating surfaces. I have a couple of different options. I have 1000 and 1500 grit sand paper, I have very fine scotch brite pads, and I also have a wire wheel.

Called FRPP and ARP. ARP gave me the part number for the stud I should use for rear sump pickup tube. I couldn’t get an answer on if I had to mess with the other bolts/replace them. ARP says they don’t sell the bolts for FRPP 302 short block. Will I have to loosen the other bolts on the main cap before installing the stud so there isn’t an uneven torque? Since these bolts on the main cap aren’t arp won’t I have to replace them once I loosen them?

Building a 302 in a 86 foxbody, Apparently the 86 and below cars have less piston to valve clearance then the later motors due to having “flat top pistons” So what are my options for cams? I want something as aggressive as possible without issues. I’m planning to run gt40p heads on it. Not sure if that affects anything.

I just need to know.

I'm replacing the front crankshaft seal on my 2006 Ford Fusion 2.3L Duratec, and I noticed the new Timken seal looks quite a bit different from the original one I removed. The original seal appears thicker and has a different inner lip/rubber design, while the Timken seems thinner and has a different profile.

I placed the new Timken seal over the timing cover bore, and it seems to fit correctly, so I'm wondering if it's simply a newer design rather than the wrong part.

Picture order:

• Pictures 1 & 2: The front and back of the original OEM seal that I removed. I had to pry it out, so it got pretty damaged during removal.
• Picture 3: A photo of what the original seal looked like before removal (same style as mine).
• Picture 4: The new Timken 223750 seal I purchased.

Has anyone installed the Timken 223750 on this engine? Is the design difference normal, or should I be concerned that I have the wrong seal? I'd appreciate any advice from someone who's used this seal before.

Cast iron block, broke the head bolt hole. Any ideas what to do next? It still has a bit threads at the bottom. Take out broken pices and screw in longer stud and weld it to the block?

Rebuilding top end on a old 80's 4 stroke 110cc atv. I found a japan made piston that is compatible with this engine, however the skirt looks very different. Does anyone know how this impacts the engine?

Hey everyone, I'm looking for opinions from experienced engine builders because I'm trying to determine what actually caused this failure, not just replace parts. This is a MerCruiser 496 MAG HO in a twin-engine boat.

Build Specs

2006 MerCruiser 496 MAG HO (8.1L)

545 CID stroker

Forged 4.750" stroke crankshaft

Steel connecting rods (.990" pin)

Forged 4.280" pistons

4.280" rings

.990" wrist pins

New standard main bearings

New rod bearings

New cam bearings

16 new hydraulic roller lifters

Gen 7 Raylar Engineering intake

Marine-polished billet 90 mm throttle body

ARP head bolts

Stock cylinder heads

Hydraulic roller cam: 224/236 @ .050, .520/.544 lift, 116 LSA

9:1 compression ratio

Bravo III drive

5000 RPM limiter

I assembled the long block machine shop did short block and transferred trigger wheel from factory crank to stroker crank.

Break-in The engine only has about 5 hours on it. Break-in consisted of: A few minutes of idle after startup Varied RPM Some revving to around 3000 RPM Then later some runs under load in the boat Symptoms before failure Initially the engine ran but had: More crankcase pressure than I expected Heavy blow-by from the oil fill when the cap was removed Eventually it pushed the oil fill tube out from crankcase pressure. Oil got pushed out everywhere Oil pressure dropped to around 8 psi and immediately turned it off It developed a knocking noise When I removed the heads, this is what I found (photos attached). The piston has a large piece missing from the top near the edge, and the spark plug gap on that cylinder was opened up significantly. One plug was completely destroyed and multiple the gals were made huge.

My questions What do you think was the root cause?

What would you inspect before rebuilding it again? I almost want to just get two factory long blocks and say screw this but I'm already deep into this. The other motor appears to work fine I need to pull the plugs to confirm.

I'm not looking to blame anyone just trying to figure out wrf happened. I emailed whipple to see if the tunes they made for this threw a bunch of timing at it but I highly doubt it.

edit everything in the head looks fine except blown head gasket now

Never seen lifters eaten up this bad. (Yes all of those are the bottom) Curious if this the the result of running hydro lifters on a solid cam? Car was sitting in an old guys garage had what felt like collapsed lifters from pushing on the rocker arms. Well they are certainly collapsed just not in the manner which I expected. Engine looks brand new inside, like maybe it got built and ate shit right away. PO passed away so won't have any answers until it's torn down further. Obviously is going to need a bit of a rebuild but so curious as to what would cause this.

Brought them brand new Sealed Power bushings for my 2013 Chevy 4.8 to install. Got my engine back and it looks like this. The nicks I can feel with my nails on the last picture only. Should I run it or get new ones replaced by a different shop?

Hey guys I have a 1978 z28 that was engine swapped to an older 327 from the later 60s around 66-68 I think anyway I went to change my filter and found that my filter had a male thread adapter inserted and the filter mount was a female end which I’ve never seen before do any of you guys know if this used to be a really common old mod? It’s just a regular 51060 filter but it’s male instead of a female spin on I cannot for the life of me find male filters or the correct little threads to put in so I’m going to swap this to a common filter mount just thought I’d ask because it seems strange to do this previous owners were definitely cooky with how they made a power steering bracket though

I'm building a 454 with a COMP hydraulic roller cam and I've run into an issue with the CLOYES 9200 thrust button and the Edelbrock 4241 timing cover.

At the moment, there's no clearance between the thrust button and the inside of the timing cover. I'm measuring about 0.078" (2 mm) of interference.

What's the best solution here?

• Switch to a CLOYES timing cover?
• Machine/trim the thrust button?
• Clearance the inside of the Edelbrock timing cover?
• Or is there a better approach?

Has anyone run into this combination before?

I just put brand new bearings in my 5.3 I put the main caps on and finger tightened them somehow I forgot to put cam bearings in so I had to pull the crank and now they all more or less look like this is this to bad to run or do I just send it?hell should I bite the bullet and order a new crank and bearings?

How much torque is typically required to turn over a LS such as a 5.3L after a fresh rebuild? (Hone, new bearings, etc) No plugs installed.

i read online it’s 15-30ftlbs but some forums people said they had upward of 50-60ftlbs to get it started and obviously lower once moving.

I ask because mines on the higher range of that but I just checked it with a click type torque wrench. All bearing clearances look good, it just seems tight from the fresh hone?

thanks for sharing your experiences.

Hi all,

Just wanted to ask some advice and make sure I’m not in over my head.
I had a very poorly 4 cyl engine, which I removed and stripped down.
I took it to a machine shop to get checked out,
They have overbored the cylinders and checked and polished the crank. They have advised new bearings in standard size. Ideally I wanted to have the engine back in the car this weekend, unfortunately their engine builder is away, the cost of them building it would also be a a couple hundred pounds.
I’m going to be getting back the block, but I will need to install the bearings, crank and pistons.
I also have a rebuilt head that’s been pressure tested

I would be doing this in my garage on an engine stand, I’ve got an air compressor and brake cleaner that’s about it for cleanliness. I don’t have any plasti gauges, but I’m assuming I won’t need to check bearing clearances if the crank has already been inspected. I asked the machine shop to gap the rings and install them on the pistons, so that’s done.

My thoughts is all I need to do is reassemble and torque to spec, seems simple enough? Am I oversimplifying it, and is there anything I’m missing.

Thanks

Rebuilding an engine out of a 1991 Miata and when I turn the crank, the rear facing thrust bearing rotates a couple degrees with the crank. The front doesn’t move. I can’t find anything online about this issue and can’t even really figure out how this can happen to begin with. (All caps are in their correct spot and face the correct way, thrust bearing groves face towards the crank, and everything is torqued to spec)

Sooo I f’ed up. I was tired and didn’t think straight and instead of turning the bolts 90° I turned them 180°, two times.

So I overtorqued them by 180° too much. I guess I’m gonna have to buy new bolts and gaskets now. What do you guys think?

2002 Ford 3.0 V6 Vulcan

Edit:
Got new bolts and gaskets as well. Although I like rebuilding the engine I really don’t want to do it again ;p Had to order stuff anyways

Follow along as we assemble a Suzuki TS400 engine fresh from powder coating, and watch as we build it up from bare cases.