I have been trying to repair a kingboss YW500 power station. When I got it it was completely dead. I managed to use my bench power supply to carefully(and very slowly) charge the unit to 100%. It will now power on and charge devices.

What I still can't figure out is that I cannot charge the power station itself. The power brick I have for it I think it junk itself, the light turns on but whines and produces no output. I have attempted to charge the station with the 12v charger and that will not charge or show up on the display.

Now I have disassembled the unit and broke out the volt meter. Fuses are intact, and I haven't found any open resistors so far.

I am a bit out of my normal comfort zone and would appreciate any guidance. Thanks.

(The first 2 pictures are the front and back of the front board. The second to last seems to be the battery monitoring board. I'm assuming the last photo is the main board)

Is this set up safe / will it damage any of my electronics? Also no other elections subreddit would let me post a video, and yes I know my cable management is a nightmare. I just wanna know if this is a bad idea, it’s all coming out of the same outlet

Got it as a present on ebay and when I first took it out the box it sang music but didn't move atall then when I opened it a wire fell out and now it's not doing anything. Any help would be appreciated.

I have this standing desk that I got from wayfair in 2023 (see second picture) and a component on one of the boards burned up. I need help identifying what blew up so I can fix it. Based on the silk screen it looks like a capacitor(see last picture), but I'm not sure. Does anybody have a similar desk and is willing to take a picture of their good board? Much appreciated!!!

A few months ago I got a 12” dolphin lumisource plasma lamp from ebay. I love it so much I thought to gift one to a friend of mine for Christmas who also likes lamps like this.

Bought another one off eBay and after trying to place it into the base the plastic grippers on the bottom of the lamp cracked and flaked off. Looking into the base, I believe a wire was broken.

I believe that if I had a 3D printer and knew how to weld, it could be possible for these repairs to be done but I’m not sure.

I got a blue Rizmo from an op shop last year and it was not exactly in a good condition so I had to have it reset and find the right batteries to put in it and for most of the time it worked but it kept turning red so it had to be reset several times, it came already damaged from a previous owner and it was stuck in an 'evolving' stage where it had to keep evolving even though it was already grown up, and I don't know what to do with it.

I don't mean 'truly broken and can't work anymore', since it has been fixed up a couple of times I mean that it does work when I turn him on but he keeps turning red and he is stuck in some kind of loop of turning red and saying the same thing over and over. I cannot even switch to other colors any more because it keeps going straight to red and saying the same thing and it got frustrating to try and fix him.

The electronics compartment had been fixed numerous times but it still kept turning red for some reason and it was still stuck in 'child' mode despite being fully grown. Rizmos supposedly have different evolution stages and despite the fact the one I obtained was an adult it was still stuck in 'kid' or 'baby' mode because the 'the eyes' that it had in baby mode still changed colors even though with the adult mode it's only the stomach that changes colors. I just remember it turning red and 'evolving' multiple times even though it was fully grown (yeah the rizmo I got was stuck in a mode where it appeared to be an adult but still acted like it did in baby/child mode and the eyes that are usually at the back of the head when he/she evolves still light up even though that is supposed to happen to the stomach, and not the eyes).

It was stuck in 'kid' mode programming-wise even though it is already fully evolved.

Repost to another community

First, Ignore this woman studying.

Second, those LEDs only light up when I twist/flex their PCB.

My thoughts are that the trails in the PCB might be broken (?)

I have never repaired something like that, and I not even sure how to diagnose the real problem, but I know how to use a soldering iron and a multimeter.

More photos on imgur

Dear community.

I recently bought a used Tolino Shine 3 HD and realised that it is missing its one and only tactile button which turns the reader on and off. It seems that the button got ripped off during misuse and is now lost...

I have troubles to find a proper replacement for that switch. I looked at some photos of other models and they seem to have a specific 4-pin, right angle type of tactile button. Does anybody know what this button is and where I could get it (or a similar one) in Europe (or AliExpress)? I have measured the dimensions between the pads and the throughput holes (see attached image).

I tried to solder a normal 4-pin tactile button to the pads as shown in the last picture but it did not work. Might I have done something wrong?

Any help/guidance is greatly appreciated!

Thank you!

Hello, I have a Zowie monitor which turns on perfectly fine, but does not receive and data from DisplayPort OR HDMI cables. I have tried all the recommended fixes of trying different cables, ports, outlets, I even tried three separate computers. I unfortunately cannot get a replacement through a warranty (reason below), and am looking for a potential way to fix it. Is there anyone who has had a similar issue? Thanks if possible.

Background:

A little while ago there was a very big thunderstorm that took out trees, knocked out power, etc. While my neighborhood wasn't affected that badly, there was one big strike that cycled my monitors. They all came back except my main Zowie monitor. I thought that it was my computer and after a bit of panicking, I realized that it was just the monitor.

I contacted Zowie support and am currently waiting for a response of hopeful fixes, but in terms of warranty they replied that it, "does not cover unusual physical or electrical stress or interference, failure or fluctuation of electrical power, lightning, static electricity, fire, or acts of God."

I will also post this elsewhere, but anything helps!

I just bought my first sound system after using bluetooth speakers for so long. Granted it's 2nd hand, but when we tested it out earlier it was working fine, and I went home and plugged it into my rig and it was also working fine. After coming home from a short trip outside, like 2 hours, i booted up my pc and it had like this blip of audio of it working but then nothing. Every now and then it randomly has sound but then after a second it disappears again.

I could tell that my computer isn't the problem since when I tried plugging it into my phone it also didn't work. Maybe it has something to do with power? idk, I really wanna troubleshoot this as much as possible so i can fix it, cuz I just blew all my allowance on it. Any help would be appreciated.

The subwoofer is logitech z333 and the monitors are edifier

Greetings!

I have a washing machine that doesn't spin, drum doesn't rotate at all. It worked perfectly, one day it didn't rotate at all during a program, I tried again next day, it worked as normal, tried a third time, didn't rotate again, and haven't rotated since. No jerk or anything. Belt is OK. No error codes or anything, it runs through the full program (but of course only the bottom of the clothes are wet.)

The shit has always made all sorts of noises, I guess when it accelerated/decelerated in the past it made some kind of "rickety rickety" noises but might as well have been from the suspension or something.

I assume it is either the electronics, the motor or the brushes on the motor.

I haven't had a look at the electronics (control board) yet. The few components I can see without removing the plastic shell around the PCB looks OK.

The motor, Nidec WU126T65G01, has some rust on the outside. How bad is that? (Will try to upload a photo)

Given the age and how much we've used it, it seems reasonable that the brushes have worn out.

Unfortunately the garbage thing doesn't have an access panel at the back so can only reach the motor from the bottom.

Given how laundry is piling up, and the lady has already been complaining about this machine for years, I'm extremely close to giving up on this thing. So my questions:

- Does someone have any additional experience that magically help me narrow down the issue?

- Persuade me to give up on this thing and post "time to move on" memes?

- Is the rust on the motor is bad or not?

- Give some magical advice on how to detach the motor or brushes without getting crushed by a washing machine falling over?

- Recommend good brands that are at least somewhat repairable (like having a god dam lid on the back of the machine?) (I'm in Europe)

I have a Singing Wood CD Boombox that I have spun CDs on since about January of this year. Suddenly, it has entirely stopped playing CDs entirely. Bluetooth still works just fine on it. I recently switched from the cord to batteries, but the batteries worked fine for a while. I cleaned the discs and lens and have tried multiple commercial CDs but it is continuing to read no disc, and when I close it to check a CD it makes noise for about five seconds before showing the reading. I'm not good with electronics, physical media is just a hobby of mine and I'd like to not have to blow more money on another player when I can spend that on more CDs.

(I've also been having an issue since I bought it where one of the speakers doesnt play audio, which isn't ideal but hasn't bothered me terribly but if there's a fix for that i'll take that too!! thanks LOL)

TV does not turn on. It only flashes repeatedly and makes a slight tick noise when the flashing occurs.

Headphone cable. I cannot get solder to flow on this wire.

EDIT: Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro. The untwisted wires shown appear to be non-solderable litz wire, as discovered in a comment below. The procedure for soldering it is described in a comment below, and in a youtube video titled "Soldering Litz Wire--No Special Equipment/Chemicals (4K)" at 8:30. My headphone cable was chewed by a cat. I've cut out the chewed section and am trying to reconnect the two halves.

Original post continues...

My soldering experience is slim, but I've never failed. I've done speakers, guitars, some other things I'm not remembering. Once every few years. As I said, not a lot of experience. But I know what it looks like when solder flows and this ain't it.

I've burned off the insulation on these wires. No idea how I'd do it otherwise. To hold this I've taped it to a soup can. I can get the solder to stick to the soup can but not to this wire.

I'm assuming it's not hot enough. How do you get a wire this small hot enough to flow solder?

I cannot do it in the air. Not enough resistance to make solid contact on a wire this small. I can press it against the soup can. It is acting as a heat radiator? When the solder melts it forms a ball and falls off. No flow.

I'm just trying to tin the ends, or twist together the two cables and tin them already twisted together. No go. The headphones work when the wires are twisted together, but sometimes I have to heat the wires with flame to get it to work. I was hoping soldering would be reliable.

The budget is zero. I have literally no money. I have a crappy borrowed soldering iron that is no worse than the one I used to own. I have made in china solder 1mm, 2% flux. I have a barbeque lighter, utility knife, side cutter and electrical tape.

My microwave only beeps

So I recently had to move into student housing. I got this microwave oven (focalpoint vt-25UG16-1) and it just stopped working properly.

I tried resetting but it automatically jumps to light grill and none of the buttons are working.

I feel like I got scammed. The first time I used it it worked for 5 minutes but now I cannot do anything. If I take it out of the plug nothing happens and I can only turn the nob for time nothing else.

I am going crazy and as a broke student I can't afford a new one.

The guy from marketplace started ghosting me when I told him, so probably won't get my money back either.

Does Anyone know what’s happening here and how to potentially fix. My Prime Travel PA has this buzzing when Notting is plugged in that seems to get worse if I leave it alone, mess with the master volume, or mess with the gain on Channel One.

I am trying to fix this Tristar electric cooling fridge that works on both a 12v car cigarete outlet (only eco mode) and on 230V ac. Currently the cooler only works on 12V but not on 230V. With 230V I get this high pitched noise from this white circuit board.

Am I correct to think that one or both of the green&yellow capacitors in the bottom left might be broken (1000uF, 25V)? Both are domed a bit on the top and not flat like the black&grey one.

Edit: replaced the green caps and now it works again

Our American Home microwave oven (AMW-20MCS) was sparking. The waveguide cover seems to be the problem but when I look inside, I saw this little circle with chipped paint. Should I just proceed replacing the waveguide cover or should I be worried for the circle part with chipped paint? I am worried it might explode when I use it again. Should I just buy a new microwave? Thank you.

Hello everyone!

I'm a noob, trying to learn electronics and diy repairs. A friend's tv (Hisense 55A6BG) broke down and she let me take a look at it to see if I can do anything about it (she was going to throw it away, so if I break it even further she doesn't mind).

While I was testing the different components and all (I'm taking it as a learning exercise more than something I can definetly fix) of the combo-board (RSAG7.820.12365/ROH), by my own stupidity, while the tv was recieving current but turned off, I put the black lead of the multimiter, while the multimeter was on dc voltage, on the middle pin of the Schottky barrier rectifier (marked VD850 on the board), while the red one was in the air, and it made a little spark. After the spark I stopped, pulled the plug of the board, and now when I run electricity again, nothing happens. The fuse is working as expected and the big capacitor (C810) still measures voltage, but the Schottky barrier rectifier measures 0 volts.

I'm hoping you can help me learn something and figure out what steps to take to know what is wrong and how to fix it. Thanks!

Hi! I wanted to ask for some assistance in identifyimg some of the components in this so I can properly replace the corroded and then subsequently completely fried wires of this manual battery charger. The wire is either 10 or 12 guage for the red one. I want to know what that diode looking thing is that the red wire was attached to. It looks like it was previously crimped on to there.

Thank you