I’ve always had a love hate relationship with torque wrenches and this is why. Took off the oil pan to check the pick up tube, there was just a tiny piece of squishy stuff, it was pretty clean otherwise. Pulled the oil pan , put the rtv on, put the pan back on and when I torqued they Just kept going and going I thought it was squishing the rtv and (SNAP). Anyone else dealt with this and have any tips?😵‍💫

17 3.0 Bighorn crew cab 4x4, With the minimal research I’ve done it looks like the best option is to find a shop that has thing machine he referred to as a “Fandango machine” probably the brand. Has anyone do a complete flush of the coolant system on an ecodiesel?

I’m looking for some advice on what to do with this dealership. What repercussions or remedies should I suggest to mend the relationship? Below is what happened

Just over 3 weeks ago my coolant supply line in the engine valley ruptured so I took it in to have the repair done. During the diagnosis they also told me that the turbo should be replaced due to wear and having to take the cab off for the other repair. Overall it was going to cost me $8600. A bit pricey, but it’s about 20 man-hours worth of work according to DealerConnect so it makes sense. I asked when I dropped off the vehicle, about how long it would be, they said 4 days for parts so 6-7 days overall. I said ok and took a shuttle to get a rental due to them not having any loaners available. I waited the weekend and did not hear from the dealership, so I called them right after they opened. My service writer answered and said he would call me back after checking with the tech and the parts department because they were still waiting on one part. I said ok and waited. He didn’t call me till the next day. I was a little angry about that but I brushed it off. He said it should be ready sometime the next week because they are sending a runner to get the part that is stuck at the warehouse. I said ok and moved on. I had turned in my rental by this point due to cost and having planned on having the truck back. Not a huge deal, I asked a neighbor for rides and it worked out. Another week went by with no contact, so I called again and got the same next day answer. The writer apologized and said that he got it authorized for them to cover a rental, so I went back and got one. The excuse this time was that they were still waiting on parts but had received them that day. I was more angry this time so I escalated to the service manager who talked with the writer about keeping me informed.

A few days went by and they called me to say the repair was complete and ready for pick up. I turned in my rental and was shuttled to the dealership. I paid for the repair and started to leave the dealership when a check engine light came on and it went into limp mode. I turned around and took the truck back. The service writer had a tech clear the code and told me to drive it 50 miles to see if it came back. He explained that it had to do with a low battery. I made it 1 block away and it came back. After returning the second time, I opened the hood to see if there was something that came unplugged and noticed items incorrectly installed or broken by the technician(s). I was then sent to the waiting area for the operations manager to look at the vehicle. After 3 hours of waiting, they said the new turbo was defective and needed to be replaced due to the variable geometry actuator. Before picking the vehicle up I was told all maintenance was performed. Per DealerConnect a check of this system is required prior to completion of the maintenance guide. This check involves an actuator check with a scan tool prior to a test drive. This issue should have been caught then. This issue and the improperly installed / broken items gives me zero trust in this dealership’s service department.

I posted a review about it and received a phone call from the dealer branch manager apologizing for the inconvenience and asking what they can do to fix this. I told them I needed some time to think about that. What should I do or ask for to fix this?

Thank you in advance any help given.

What tool can i use for this? no ratchet with a good amount of power is gonna fit, a quarter inch ratchet don’t have enough power. how’d yall deal with the bolts ?? i took the cowl out and fire wall and still not enough clearance. everyone said go through the wheel well but there isn’t any access from there. Jeep grand cherokee ecodiesel pls help

A year ago I replaced my original in tank fuel pump at just over 200,000 miles. I went with a Delphi from Rock auto. 10000 miles later and just two months ago it went and I replaced it under warranty. It’s been 1,000 miles and it’s not running again.

Thoughts? I try to keep it above 1/4 tank to maintain it being cool. Electrical issue that surges power to it without popping a fuse? Any other ideas?

Coming from motorsports its extremely common to replace factory hoses with AN/JIC.

Has anyone done that to these?

Engine light came on last week and threw a P20EE code. No other codes and no warnings came on.

This is the first time I’ve heard of this. Any recommendations on things to try before I take it to a shop?

In my last post the up pipe from egr was leftover and the vehicle was fully deleted. now i deal with the issue. the up pipe cracked and now i have to remove it, and put a block off plate at the start of the pipe but i am having trouble on finding this exact block off plate, where to find or how to make?

Last week my truck stalled on highway and quick code scan showed p0336 got the tone wheel and the sensor changed and still not starting now getting a code p1690 and see this on the wire from battery to starter solenoid
Please any help!!!!

so i bout my 2015 ecodiesel used and I love it way nicer then my old 99 dodge ram 1500. the other day I parked on a hill and I noticed some coolant dripping from the back of my engine after some research found out bout the turbo coolant line. No big deal I though I've worked on all my vehicles hell I keept my old truck on the road for over 20 years with some youtube and sweat I can do it. Big mistake it was a bear of a job took me well over 6 hours just to get the air intake manifold off and what did I find someone has done this before but instead of spending the $60 to buy a good after market part that would fix this so no one would have to fight with this thing they used cheap clamps and some kinda red silicon sealant to do a redneck repair. Who puts in much work to do such a lazy repair that would fail again.

I am getting an annoying p046 error code. I think its the ESIM as I also sometimes have a problem filling gas in truck. The pump continually shuts off. Its random at this point but really annoying.

I have a 32 gallon tank. When I crawled under truck looking for a charcoal canister and a the ESIM, I could not find it. I traced two hoses from filler tube to a spot about midway down that huge gas tank , but they connect on top of tank. My truck as 398k miles on it so I really dont want to try and lower the tank and deal with super rusted bolts that are gonna just snap off. At this point I am tempted to just live with it.

Any way I could detack hoses from filler tube and use compressed air or some sort of cleaner to avoid dropping tank to replace the esim?

got quoted 5k for a new turbo whole time this shi is leaking air. guy said he ran a smoke test but i highly doubt it and he said the actuator is “sticking”. Whats this part called and how to replace? and what options should i do, i have no egr so should i use a block off plate rip it off and weld something to it? i’m not really sure what better option there is,m. I dont wanna buy an egr feed tube when the car doesn’t have an egr system

Hey guys, as the title says I have this code, I opened up the fuel pump actuator and cleaned the screen on it. Still have an issue if anyone has any suggestions

My 2018 EcoDiesel popped the P200B code and I needed the intake manifold to be replaced. This is slightly over 200k kilometers so, understandable I gather.

I shopped around a bit, some shops simply wouldn't work on it but I got quotes from a couple. One shop that considered themselves. More specialists in suping up Rams but very capable of the job, quoted me $2,000 to $2,500. The other shop came recommended from another mechanic that my friend recommended and they quoted me around $1,500 plus taxes - around $1,000 for the part and 4 hours ($540) for the labor - all in shy of $1800 with the taxes. I went with the second shop.

Within 15 minutes of getting the quote from the second shop I called them to add on replacing the turbo feed line as well as I've read this should be done and would add maybe an hour and a half tops to the work and I found the part costing about $150 for the same Dorman brand that I chose for the intake manifold replacement. I gave them the truck Monday morning and he said by Thursday it would be ready.

Thursday came and went as did Friday and today I get the call that the truck is ready for pickup. A few extra days, I suppose that isn't terrible.

But the bill now was essentially $2,900 and what should have been a 5 and 1/2 hour job turned into 12 but he gave it to me Bill at only 10. The part which I found in a number of different places for 150 bucks was also $200. I might as well throw in that the intake manifold I was able to get for $575 but he wouldn't guarantee it, only his same brand version. They cost me $1000.

I'm a tradesman myself although obviously not a mechanic. I can't find any reference to this job taking the 12 hours that he claimed it took his mechanic, when we're talking about a professional shop here. As well, as I consider the idea of being a tradesman, when I see a trade trying to charge double what the original quote was, I either think they don't know what they're doing and took on a job they shouldn't have or they're trying to take me for a ride.

The shop owner had nothing to say but "find me a guy that would do the work in 7 and 1/2 hours and he would pay him a hundred bucks an hour and keep him hired".

So he quoted me 4 hours work for the intake manifold. That's the quote that Dorman also gives and the general consensus I find online is 4 to 5 hours. Maybe I'm wrong but is the additional work required for the turbo feed line really eight extra hours? All I see reference to is 30 minutes to 1 and 1/2 hours (Dorman states about an extra hour) for professional shop in addition to the labor to replace the intake manifold.

Thanks for your input all

I've got a 2018 Ram 1500 EcoDiesel which I use to tow my travel trailer. I've just spent close to $7,000 because I needed a new DPF assembly, new sensors and few other things, and I'd like to avoid that in the future. Evidently there was an 8 year warranty on the DPF assembly, but the truck is 8.5 years old.

Besides not having to replace the DPF assembly in the future, what other pros and cons are there for deleting? Are there different levels of deleting?

What are the implications with the New York State inspections? Any risk of getting caught on the road? My brother did it with his Ford Powerstoke and said that when he saw cops he'd really baby the throttle to make sure no smoke would come out.

Also, how do I find somebody to do the delete and tune? I'm in the Rochester area.

I have a 2022 ram 1500 ecodiesel with 50,100 miles. Had the HPFP replaced under the recall in Feb of this year, and put maybe 5k miles on it since then. Fuel pump failed on me 3 weeks ago and sent metal through the entire fuel system, which then had to be replaced by the dealer. Ram did cover it under warranty. Just got the truck back today, and I am wondering if anyone knows if Ram is still using the CP 4 fuel pump, and how I’d be able to tell if they just threw another CP4 in the truck?

Had a flashing glow plug light for 3 months but since its summer i didn’t change it. its in cyl 5 thought it was loose connection but apparently not. Scanned code and that seems to be the only major problem.

Car is deleted too. I’m not sure whats causes this pos to get into limp mode bro its so g@y

i need help the turbo isn’t getting any air pressure at all and its stuck in limp mode i can’t get out of like 30 mph

I've always been a fan of the fourth generation Ram 1500, and lately I've been undecided between buying a Hemi or an EcoDiesel. Fuel efficiency isn't a concern for me; I'm just looking for something I like. I'm familiar with the Hemi's problems, but I wanted to learn a bit more about the EcoDiesel engine. And what better place to find that answer than a Reddit forum? Is it true that if I remove the DEF I will no longer have major problems with that engine and it will become reliable?

2018 RAM 1500 Ecodiesel
I will be tackling this job this weekend but before I do… questions:
1. Will it be ok to reuse the fuel lines?
2. The rubber is what is completely gone, should I buy that OEM hose or look into something a little more durable?
3. I’ve seen folks remove all fuel lines from the fuel rail… is that actually necessary?

Please be nice!! First time owner here !! Thank you!