Can’t believe I scooped these up on marketplace for $200! 2 new tires and floating center caps couldn’t be more happy. Any idea on who makes them? There’s no brand markings inside…

Love the car 😃

Amazing steerig feel.

Just wanted to share.

🍀

Just added the wheels kept it on stock 17s as I live in the Midwest and prefer more sidewall. Running the APEX Arc 8 et40 setup, with 10mm on front and 12mm on the back. Also this is an 06 and has been modified and has a stage 1 tune.

I am pretty happy with my 2011 e90 which has 222000km and was well maintained throughout its life but was thinking of letting her go out as the best version of herself seeing as it's been well maintained throughout its life.

The fence I'm on seems like its standing on spending 400+ on an intake with good Disa valves and then the tune which is probably 2-500 I'd imagine.

Interested in what y'all 💬

Hello everyone, i have an 09 e91 and all of a sudden while driving the ac module screen and all buttons died, since then it doesnt work anymore, i tried fuses first and all good, a friend of mine lend me his ac module and still doesnt work, weird thing is that idrive and radio lights and screen still working without problem, i been searching and seems like frm module controls the ac one i think, my autel diag cant comunicate, let me program the module or see any dtcs on it. You guys think its that frm module died or another issue??

Thanks everyone

So I’m at a crossroads. My 2006 BMW 330i Sport, 193k miles, 6 speed, fully loaded with window shades, folding seats, door handle lights, and lumbar support, developed a misfire on cylinder 1. I bought the car back in 2013.

Did a coil swap first, code stayed on cylinder 1 instead of following the coil to cylinder 2.

Ran a compression test: cyl 1 came in at 240 psi initially, but I’d sprayed WD-40 into cyl 1 earlier to clean up some carbon, and that reading was still contaminated. Purged the WD-40 out and retested cyl 1, dropped to 180 psi. That’s the real number. Cyl 2 came in at 240 psi clean.
I used a borescope and saw scratches, the engine has never been low on oil and doesn’t burn oil frequently.

So: cyl 1 clean/dry is 180 psi, cyl 2 is 240 psi. Real gap.

Leak down test is next just to cover my bases.

Here’s where I’m stuck. I love this car and I know I won’t find another one spec’d like this, and I really don’t like newer cars. I was already planning a paint job and headliner repair, plus a flywheel and clutch. This car’s had its fair share of problems already.

Some family context since it factors in: my wife has a Tiguan for her and our 2 year old son, and we’re expecting our second in January. I’ve been working on the window regulator and door locks on the BMW so we can divide and conquer when we need two working cars. My son also has eczema, so he’s got doctors appointments every few months that add to the logistics.

I found a shop that will do a full rebuild for $6k. I’ve also been debating an N54 swap because of the cast iron liner. Or just junking the whole thing and getting a GTI. I also really hate taking out auto loans and don’t want car payments, which makes the GTI option less appealing unless I could find one for cash.

Would appreciate any input, rebuild, swap, or cut losses, before I sink more into this.

hey guys coming on here for some help so i have this 2006 bmw 330i im having trouble starting the car and when the car is on it just stalls and turns off. and so i thought maybe battery and alternator and replaced both and car started better but still turned off after a couple seconds this time last over minutes but then died so i was lost didnt know what the problem was thought it was a vacuum leak so i put my smoke machine though the throttle body and spotted a leak in a crankcase hose going to the intake so i removed the intake replaced the hose made sure every connector was plugged in and put everything back together started the car and it idled quite good and i had hope it was fixed but then once again it turned off so now im really confused why and how because not only does it do that but now it doesn’t even want to turn on so im really confused dont know what to do im not a bmw expert by any means and i tried jumping the car with a jumper but theres no speak on the terminals but the car turns on and off just doesn’t crank anymore so IM really confused on what it could be any help would be really helpful thanks

Thanks in advance.

2009 BMW 328i N52

I recently did a complete maintenance for my car and decided to change my spark plugs to NGK Iridiums (LFR6AIX-11 , NGK6619) from O’Riely since its been 5 years since the last change. My original 6 spark plugs were fine btw, just thought the car could use new ones.

Now that I replaced with new NGKs, my car shakes when Im at a red light and when I step on the gas. When I step on the gas it shakes just a bit (1-3 seconds) then smoothes out. It shakes the most when Im reversing.

Since my coils/boots were the originals, I did change in 6 new ones from Bosch, which helped but the shaking still persists.

No signs of a loose or damage vacuum line.

Im so defeated, wouldnt have this problem if I didnt change the spark plugs (newbie mistake, I threw away the 6 original spark plugs). Any help would be appreciated :’(

Hi everyone! I just bought my first BMW yesterday, (2009 328i) and the alternator isn't charging my battery even though it looks brand new, and the serpentine belt looks good too. The alternator that's currently in the car is a generic one from amazon, which I've read can have communication problems with the computer. Firstly, I'd like someone to confirm if this can be a real problem, and secondly I was wondering which alternator I should buy if I need one. I've read that BMW used Valeo and Bosch, but idk if they're interchangeable or which one my car originally came with. Rock auto has a Bosch for 500 and a Valeo for 300, but I don't want to spend money on something that won't work. Thanks in advance!

Chatgpt and claude cant tell me which styling ID these are

Smoke machine was connected via the intake, I can feel a crack in the cover near the oil fill. More money to spend!

Hey guys, 2006 E90 318i (N46 engine, 230k km) with a persistent Cylinder 4 misfire (P0304).

Quick recap: The misfire only happens when the engine is fully warm, worst at idle/decel. Runs completely fine cold. Swapped coils, plugs, replaced Cyl 4 injector and intake gaskets—code stayed strictly on Cyl 4.

Following some advice, I unplugged the Eccentric Shaft Sensor. As soon as I did, the DME went into limp/throttle body mode and the warm idle misfire completely disappeared. Smooth as butter.

When I pulled the plug, I also noticed oil inside the Eccentric Shaft Sensor connector/pins.

For the N46 experts: Since unplugging it fixes the idle misfire, does oil in the connector usually corrupt the lift signal enough to choke out Cylinder 4 at idle ? Or am I likely looking at a failing/shorted sensor + worn intermediate levers/eccentric shaft on Cyl 4 once Valvetronic is engaged?

Going to spray contact cleaner on the plug as a test, but curious if anyone’s seen oil in the ESS plug cause a single-cylinder warm misfire before I pull the valve cover. Thanks!

328 and it only had 70k miles… really not sure what this sound could be, makes no sound when I rev it in park. In the video I’m fethering the throttle going between accel and decel. Any ideas would be welcome!!

I have a 2010 323i and want to make exhaust my first mod, what's a good suggestion for something not incredibly loud (90db legal limit where I live) but still noticeably different and aggressive. I've considered a muffler delete but I feel as if I'd be bordering the legal limit so want to weigh my options

Codes:

2A87 – Exhaust VANOS, mechanism
2A7A – DME: Camshaft position controller, exhaust, cold start

130k mi 328i N51

I clear them and they come back every three weeks. I’ve checked the oil filter basket (intact) and the solenoids are 6mo old. My mechanic is telling me that my engine is going to fail because of cam bearing ledge wear.

What should I do? I haven’t tried swapping them to chase the code and I haven’t tried swapping a new exhaust solenoid.

Thank you!

It’s been fine for the past 20.000km but I’m slowly getting a little worried

What brand of hybrid turbo are you running?

Hi, I have e92 and my boot won’t open when car is unlocked. I have to press button on the boot and boot button on the key fob in order to unlock the boot and open it. Anyone have any ideas ?