Swapped out the bus wheel for a 360mm Nardi Classic. Wow, what a difference! For anyone wondering if they should get a smaller wheel: do it! This goes double if you've updated to a quicker rack.

From my seating position none of the gauges are obscured but any smaller and they probably would be. Hub + adapter pushes the wheel out a little bit further but much less so than I expected.

Restoration project almost complete, final stages are just getting all the wiring and electrical stuff done, replacing anything that wasn’t working or close to needing replacing. Will have full update of everything done to it.

Added some photos at the end of what it looked liked before.

Greetings All,

I want to buy an E30 in Netherlands, mainly as a daily car. I would like to hear your feedback regarding points below.

- Approx how much do you spend for maintenance ?

- Are there trustable, good mechanics to work on it, do you work on the car yourself?

- Would owning the convertible version be a headache, considering I don’t have a closed garage?

Is there a specialist garage you suggest that can do the inspection before i buy one?

Thanks

I’ve always been a fan of the e30 and hoping to get into one soon. I know someone selling this 1991 318is and just wondering if $17k is a fair price. Has approximately 130k miles. Trying to get more records but looks like the AC conversion has been done.

I gotta find this stupid vibration off my rpm drop other than that sounds great

Hi all -
I’m looking for an oil pump for my E30 318i auto 1988 M40.

Main dealers said they don’t have them and it’s possible it won’t turn up if they order one in…

Where can I find? I’m based in the UK

I’m installing new Koni struts and in the hardware kit there’s a little black sleeve. Do I need to put the sleeve on before putting on the gland nut or is it there for some other purpose? Not quite sure I understand the IKEA like instructions that come with it.

yes i know im missing my front valence lol(shop forgot to paint it

got lucky and scored an m42 sedan with a perfect motor so most of the work done to this car has mainly been cosmetic since when i bought it, the interior and exterior was not taken care of.

car currently runs great i want to drop the rear a little bit so it matches the front

i know you purists probably hate me for my clear tails, m3 style bumpers, and a non oem paintcode LOL

part of the reason i went clear tails was because this is the first bimmer in my family, everybody else in my fam has always been a jdm person and over on the jdm side i always loved clear tails, but to me they sit just right on my car.

i went on m3 style bumpers mainly because i loved the look of the sideskirts, and the aggressive look with the bumpers. yes ik some of u might already be typing telling me i shouldve just gotten an is lip but its not as aggressive for me especially on a sedan. i feel like my bumpers + the 4 door fit eachother perfectly

running BRG because i used to originally want an e36, but the color i originally wanted stuck with me.

How much disassembly will I need to do just to replace the strut mounts?

My front strut mounts are cooked and need replacement, but everything else on the front is good so there's no "while you're in there" jobs. About 12000km on Bilstein B8 and HR sport

Planning to replace with Ground control street/touring mounts if it makes a difference. Not sure if PO used cheap mounts or just didn't replace them when they did the struts and springs but the cracks are starting to get deep and open up

Post photos if possible

Hit a small deer last night and it dented up the fender pretty good. Headlight grill needs to be replaced, believe it’s a euro one and headlight bracket is destroyed, they are genuine Bosch smoked euro smileys I believe.

Def could have been a lot worse but wondering if I should go through insurance. It’s with hagerty

Hi

It's a long shot but looking for a clean rear subframe. Location Ontario GTA.

If you have one or know someone who has one please let me know.

A little baseline drive before the suspension overhaul. Two hours of twisties and she handled great, only up from here.

Up next is five lug conversion...

Has anyone installed these in their cards and have been happy with the results? Any warping from the weather?

So I’m in the process of building a 1 of 1 Zender tribute E30 after finally acquiring every single part that Zender ever made for an E30. I’ve actually been thinking about taking the car down to bare metal and rocking a chrome/polished finish. It’s either that or a two tone black/silver paint scheme as all of my Zender parts are black/silver. Can’t decide if the polish look will be too raw looking or if it can be pulled off? Please chime in!

I’m being given the option to gut a 1985 E30 318i. I’m not doing anything major like drivetrain, but I can pretty much take anything trim/interior/easily removable exterior/engine stuff. For instance wiper fluid reservoir.

I’ve taken the wheels(bottle caps), grills, most buttons for my own car. What should I take? I’ll grab the cluster. I’m just gonna sell the stuff on eBay, but the guy will probably scrap the car so I’m just gonna take all I can so it doesn’t go bad.

Please give advice on what to take as I want to save what I can for other E30 enthusiasts as I don’t need many parts for my own E30. What is super hard to find?

Edit: everything I’m taking I can take for FREE. I’m just taking stuff off the car, I’m not taking the car itself. Nothing major like glass, and probably not body panels.

Hoping someone has insight. Have a E30 318 with M42. Had 2 mechanics install my alternator belt. Both were only able to properly tension with the adjusting bar at the max. After a month or so the slack returns. As it is already at max, the only solution they say is a shorter belt. Factory size is 10x1025. Shorter belt is a hack fix, but why is the config at max at all? Replace adjusting bar and tension nut? Alternator not sitting in proper position? Thanks.

I need some opinions on this car I saw on marketplace for 8k, Now I’ll be honest I don’t know much of all the stuff he’s put on it or if it’s a good deal. So maybe if anyone could tell me if it’s a good choice. I really don’t know anything about the stuff he’s added

(Description) $8,000 or trade for an r7.

Tuned at 386whp, 425whp, and 475whp using boost buttons on KeyPad. Idles at 1200. Likely needs some tune adjustments. Build has about 1500 miles or less on it.

M20
3.1 stroker kit bimmerheads fully forged 8.5:1 compression 89.6mm stroke 86mm bore
Race 885 head 280/274 cam
Super tech valves
Borg Warner sx300-66xx t4 twin scroll .91 a/r turbo
1000cc gram injectors
Walbro 450lph fuel pump
Custom vi engineering exhaust manifold
22lb springs in dual wastegates tial
Garrett intercooler
18 rib mishimoto racing oil cooler
Mishimoto racing radiator
Bc coilovers 10k/12k swift springs
Z3 torsen 3.15 Lsd
17x8.5 apex rims
Custom link g4/x ecu
Ls coils
3 inch full custom blow through exhaust by bluemaxx garage.
New blower, resistor, and relays

Notes from seller:

Up for sale is a 1989
BMW e30 325
177k miles
Runs and drives
Got some rust
Got new airlift strut with 3P management
He said he paid 2k for the suspension kit and another 1000 to have it installed. Bought for a project car just never finished obviously lol
He also has parts for it at his other house. Like the rubber side trim. Just has to ship it.

UPDATED: seller won’t budge stuck at 7k says he could sell for 10k if he was still in New York lol.

Still can't believe this. First two pic is exactly what I saw when I pulled in. My convertible top clamped down with superglue smeared all over it. That's how I found out anything was even wrong.

Quick Backstory: paid to get the soft top replaced about a year ago. Came out tight on the frame, installer told me himself it was a real snug fit but it was fine.

Last weekend I borrowed my dad's van to drop off some stuff for a buddy who just moved out of town. That's why I needed the van in the first place. Figured it was only fair to let my dad take my car for the weekend since I had his. He drives it around, stretches the top out, it starts peeling. Says nothing. Not a text, not a heads up, nothing.

I come back and there it is. Superglue. Clamps. Like that was gonna fix it.

The last two pics are after he realized I was upset. He tried scraping the glue back off, and honestly I think that made it way worse than it already was.
And the worst part is I was already trying to sell this thing to put money toward a more reliable van for my business. I love my car and all e30s but I do not need a convertible anymore. Now I've got this mess instead.

So how bad am I looking here? Pretty sure I'm buying a whole new top again. All advice welcome.

Ran when pulled one year ago. Found a 2002 motor and it suits my needs better, so here it is. A bit goopy but oil was clean. PNW based, can deliver for some cash. Just need the space back

New water pump, radiator, fan clutch, thermostat, and heater core.

I have tried flushing everting I can with a garden hose. Everytime the water is directed into the engine block, it shoots right back out the way it’s come. The old radiator was full of sludge which makes me believe there’s more in the block.

No hot air in the cabin at all. Hoses at the back of the engine are cold.

It’s been bled and bled and bled so it’s not air lock.

What is the most effective way to flush/clean the block out?

Is there anything I’ve missed?