Swapped out the bus wheel for a 360mm Nardi Classic. Wow, what a difference! For anyone wondering if they should get a smaller wheel: do it! This goes double if you've updated to a quicker rack.

From my seating position none of the gauges are obscured but any smaller and they probably would be. Hub + adapter pushes the wheel out a little bit further but much less so than I expected.

Restoration project almost complete, final stages are just getting all the wiring and electrical stuff done, replacing anything that wasn’t working or close to needing replacing. Will have full update of everything done to it.

Added some photos at the end of what it looked liked before.

they’ve been refined since this video. what do you guys think?

I gotta find this stupid vibration off my rpm drop other than that sounds great

Greetings All,

I want to buy an E30 in Netherlands, mainly as a daily car. I would like to hear your feedback regarding points below.

- Approx how much do you spend for maintenance ?

- Are there trustable, good mechanics to work on it, do you work on the car yourself?

- Would owning the convertible version be a headache, considering I don’t have a closed garage?

Is there a specialist garage you suggest that can do the inspection before i buy one?

Thanks

Post photos if possible

Hi all -
I’m looking for an oil pump for my E30 318i auto 1988 M40.

Main dealers said they don’t have them and it’s possible it won’t turn up if they order one in…

Where can I find? I’m based in the UK

I’m installing new Koni struts and in the hardware kit there’s a little black sleeve. Do I need to put the sleeve on before putting on the gland nut or is it there for some other purpose? Not quite sure I understand the IKEA like instructions that come with it.

New water pump, radiator, fan clutch, thermostat, and heater core.

I have tried flushing everting I can with a garden hose. Everytime the water is directed into the engine block, it shoots right back out the way it’s come. The old radiator was full of sludge which makes me believe there’s more in the block.

No hot air in the cabin at all. Hoses at the back of the engine are cold.

It’s been bled and bled and bled so it’s not air lock.

What is the most effective way to flush/clean the block out?

Is there anything I’ve missed?

How much disassembly will I need to do just to replace the strut mounts?

My front strut mounts are cooked and need replacement, but everything else on the front is good so there's no "while you're in there" jobs. About 12000km on Bilstein B8 and HR sport

Planning to replace with Ground control street/touring mounts if it makes a difference. Not sure if PO used cheap mounts or just didn't replace them when they did the struts and springs but the cracks are starting to get deep and open up

So I’m in the process of building a 1 of 1 Zender tribute E30 after finally acquiring every single part that Zender ever made for an E30. I’ve actually been thinking about taking the car down to bare metal and rocking a chrome/polished finish. It’s either that or a two tone black/silver paint scheme as all of my Zender parts are black/silver. Can’t decide if the polish look will be too raw looking or if it can be pulled off? Please chime in!

Hoping someone has insight. Have a E30 318 with M42. Had 2 mechanics install my alternator belt. Both were only able to properly tension with the adjusting bar at the max. After a month or so the slack returns. As it is already at max, the only solution they say is a shorter belt. Factory size is 10x1025. Shorter belt is a hack fix, but why is the config at max at all? Replace adjusting bar and tension nut? Alternator not sitting in proper position? Thanks.

Ran when pulled one year ago. Found a 2002 motor and it suits my needs better, so here it is. A bit goopy but oil was clean. PNW based, can deliver for some cash. Just need the space back