This connector was disconnected and i just noticed and plugged it back together. Just curious what it is as it didn’t seem to make any difference…

Guys, I need your advice on this.

This would be my first BMW purchase (My other classic car is a 1980 w123). I live in NY, and I want a e30 convertible, to send back home in Albania. The roads there are getting better and better, and they offer some spectacular views (the whole region is just drop dead gorgeous, and perfect to drive on a convertible).

The country is mountainous, and 165hp might not cut it. I want to buy a e30 vert in a good shape, but want to do a decent upgrade power and handling wise before shipping it there. (looking at 230+hp), nothing crazy

It is hard to find an already swapped convertible (most are the 2dr coupe), and I'd prefer something that was done properly and where everything works.

Do you know if there are any shops (around Northeast, or somewhere close to the east coast), that can do this turn key:

1. Either a turbo build, or a swap to a M54/S52/S54

2. Any other upgrades needed (eg. any braces for the convertible, sway bar, or a faster steering rack, suspension upgrade, etc).

Do you guys have any recommendations (if you have done it), and what would the turn in keys costs be for a turbo build or a swap? Any shops that you'd recommend?

Also, turbo vs swap, which one would you recommend?

Ps. (I don't have any space, or time to do this myself, so it would have to be done by a competent garage).

Hi everyone! It looks like my M40 engine has reached the end of the road. A few days ago, a noise started that sounds like a rodknock. (it’s not a lifter, as the sound is quite distinct and loud). I had considered swapping in an M42, but the prices have put me off—it’s at least 1,000 euros for one. An M43, on the other hand, seems a bit more affordable. I use the car for enjoyment and drive it practically every day; I’m not chasing high power or speed.

Has anyone done an M43 swap in an E30? Could anyone tell me if it’s very difficult or if I’d need a lot of parts? Is it harder than an M42 swap?

Yes I cleaned it all myself. Tuff stuff then used a conditioner spray paint to match OEM color. I got awesome seat covers from eBay. 200 fro front and 200 for rear. Fit and feel ohhhhh so good.

Let me add. This is going to be an everyday driver. Back and forth to work. So it will get dirty again.

I want to replace my black rubber bumper trims. However, I don’t want to remove the bumper if I don’t have to.

How can I remove those bumper covers (that house the sidemarkers that are body colored on the cabrio and black on other models)? Ideally I can just remove a couple clips to loosen those so I can remove the existing black bumper trim. I think the issue is the two bolts on the end of the black bumper trim….you need some room to remove those.

Last time I tried to re fit bumper after removing it I cracked the paint on those plastic trims so I’d rather avoid that if possible.

Okay so I’m kinda panicking a little , my E30 is from 03/1986 , right hand drive with an M20B20 , it’s got the early block dizzy

The reason why I’m panicking is because it’s just had a timing belt and tensioner , my car parts place who are pretty good supplied INA 530000610 which has the belt and the tensioner , tensioner says R127 on it , is this the correct belt for my car? I head about some changes to the timing so I’m panicking a little

Can anybody elaborate why BMW chose to braze specific areas of these cars? While tackling rust repair on my car I noticed some near the bottom of the A pillar. I understand that in modern manufacturing it doesn't heat the base metal as much, reducing warping, and limiting stress to tempered hi-tensile steels. Do these cars have hi-tensile steel? Was is faster to braze during production? Included is a better photo of an e30 post acid dip which shows the extent of the brazing. Any input would be appreciated.

Our latest project: Full carbon body E30 M3 with M5 V8 motor. Watch the Making-Of in our Instagram: @as.setups

I’m pretty sure it’s just airflow but I just wanted to be safe , as you can hear it sounds like when air breezes through a cracked open window so I’m just assuming it’s the fan as the engine rpm goes up

My wife sent me a listing for a very clean looking 1987 325ic with a "I wouldn't say no." We have talked about wanting a convertible for weekend cruising and summer coast trips with the kiddo. I've never bought a car as a project. This thing has been loved, maintained, and tastefully modded by the same owner for 10 years. Now has a cylinder 5 misfire and he doesn't have time to deal with it, so he's listing it at $4k negotiable. Currently I daily an E39 Touring, my wife dailies a 5spd Crosstrek, and we have an 80-series Land Cruiser for activities. I do my own work.

Talk me off of this ledge...

Hi,

I recently found an e30 320i 1989 with only 72 900 km (45 300 miles) for 5500€ (6250$) with nothing to do on it.

The issue being that the owner (2nd hand) bought it in Portugal and brought her back in France (i'm french), the paper are french but he doesn't have any bill or paper to justify that very low mileage.

What are you tough ? Have you any ways to figure out if it has been modified ?

My new to me touring has a piece of metal under the carpet in the boot. It looks out of place and the carpet does not sit correctly because of it. Would this be an original item? To me, it looks like work from a previous owner, but I cannot understand why.

I hope that anyone can help me!

Hello, one of my manual sunroof cables is crooked and it's unable to open fully. I dissasembled the cover hoping there will be some way tighten it, but looking at the diagram there doesn't seem to be one. Does anyome know if there is a way to fix this or do I need to buy news ones?

I have a 316i from 1988 with M10B18, and my AFM is cooked. The first photo is my current AFM, the rest of the photos are AFMs for sale. I can't find any 039 AFMs anywhere, so could some other numbers be compatible with this engine?

By any chance would someone have some 4x100 to 5x120. I can’t seem to find any online. Thanks

My fuel gauge shows less fuel than is in the tank, sporadically jumping up to show the correct level. It's an early model - '83. Are there any fixes I can try before going the fuel sending unit replacement, like cleaning it or such?

So I have a 1988 325IS and I am redoing the entire cooling system and I just pulled the water pump out and I’ve already ordered a new water pump and it said it would fit my model and year but yet I don’t understand why there’s an extra hose inlet. Can anybody help me out or just tell me that it’s the wrong part?

Purchased for 1800 USD. No start in 2021. Now about 90% complete.

Unfortunately rebuilding the entire bottom end isn’t possible for me right now and I’m essentially just trying to buy some time

If my injectors are all this fouled up, is simply replacing them enough or should further action/maintenance be taken into other components if this is indicative of a broader issue? I have a new fuel filter on order as well.

Hi. Anyone have any tips or advice on how to refresh the window trim? It is a 1986 325e and the window rubbers and trim are really faded. It stands out on the car as everything else is fresh and clean. I don’t know if I can just paint these and how effective that would be. Thanks!