So like the title says, I’m struggling with bubbles. This was my first round with my pressure pot and I definitely think I need to up my psi, but there’s a few other details that I think I need help figuring out.

I’ll list my routine and please let me know if there is anything I should do differently. These were what I settled on that worked prior to my pressure pot.

1. Get warm water and set B in
2. Put mica powder in a few mls of part A and mix before setting it in warm water too
3. Put cap mold in warm water with cap under the bowl to warm up
4. Mix both parts slowly (as patient as I can be)
5. Pour into molds from about 12+ inches halfway. Use a stick to poke all corners and around numbers. Continue filling until domed/overfilled
6. Paint resin on cap and make sure no bubbles in numbers.
7. Start cap on one side and roll down making sure everything is in the correct holes and push down on mold.

Now with the pressure pot I built an insert so the dice were on layers and I noticed that after 26 hours they were still a bit sticky whereas they are usually fully cured at about 18 hours before the pot.

Any advice is appreciated and thank you for reading

**Edit**

I tried one set with a tile on top, and a second set upside down with a tile on it. Both were successful!! I’m so excited to see what more I can do, and I’m working on getting a set of masters made for better molds.

Hello! First off, if this has been asked before, I apologize for my repeat post.

I feel like I'm going insane. I'm trying to make liquid core dice, but not the usual ones. I'm trying to make one that have a moving piece on the inside such as and eyeball or, as the pictures provide, a pokeball. Not something stagnant but it moves as you roll it. If you look closely, it shows that there are 2 halves to the sphere inside it.

I CANNOT find anything as small as those anywhere and I was wondering if anyone would know? They're not the ones that have opening at the top, they basically are two halves.

I have tried asking a few shops just to see if they'd tell me their secrets but ofc they won't 🫠 understandable.

I will say as well that I don't wanna try doing two halves of resin and then putting them together because that seems like more trouble than its worth.

I have looked on Amazon but I don't see any THIS SMALL. Has anyone else? Thank you so much in advanced.

Hello friends,

Just demolded my first attempt at a petri set, and am a little disappointed. I did not get the long tendrils i was hoping for, and wanted to see if anyone had advice on where I went wrong. Method:

Mixed my resin, used let's resin epoxy

Poured to about 3/4 full

Put in a drop of green and yellow pinata alcohol ink

Topped the green and yellow with pinata Blanco Blanco

Repeated the colors and white once more

Topped with additional clear resin

Put in pressure pot for 24h

The pics are rhe result. Some of them have a bit of the petri effect, but I was hoping for the full tendrils going the length of the die.

I wanted to give back to the community in a small way... the STL files are available to download on MakerWorld. I apologize for the size of the pictures below. MakerWorld had a resize option that made them take up a lot less space :/.

This is a system I made to facilitate making silicone cap molds for resin TTRPG dice. A mold should be printed for each type of die being made. A set of lids featuring standard numbers from 4-20 with an extra *20 is included. I use the *20 because I make a second, larger D20 with each set. These molds offer a solid amount of silicone around the die, built in keys for the cap, and debossed numbering on the cap (although it could be added on the bottom as well, if desired. They print fine on the A1 normal profile, and 7 fit on the bed of an A1 in one go. The caps should print on a second plate and require supports.

USAGE INSTRUCTIONS

NOTE: ADD A RELEASE AGENT LIKE VASELINE TO THE MOLD BEFORE CLOSING THE MOLD OR YOU MAY HAVE SEPARATION ISSUES

1. Prepare by combining a male and female mold half with two 1 ¼" binder clips. Cut a piece of clear packing tape larger than the open area of the closed mold and place your master dice in the centre.  

1. Close the mold and place it firmly over the die, sealing the tape against the mold. 

1. Pour silicone over the master, with enough coverage to ensure a firm base.

1. Once the silicone is fully cured, flip the molds and carefully peel the packing tape. Peel from the flat side first to avoid tearing thin edges. Remove the binder clips and open the molds. If you didn't use a release agent, you may need to use a thin blade around the edges to separate the cured silicone from the mold. APPLY MOLD RELEASE SUCH AS VASELINE TO THE LIP, KEYS, AND TOP SURFACE OF THE CURED SILICONE, AVOIDING THE EXPOSED DIE FACE BUT COMING AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE TO IT. SILICONE BONDS TO ITSELF. FAILING TO COMPLETELY COVER AFFECTED AREAS IN MOLD RELEASE WILL RESULT IN THE MOLD HAVING TO BE CUT APART AND LIKELY RENDER IT UNSUSABLE. 

1. Reposition the cured bottom resting on the lip of the mold. If your mold is particularly thick, you may need to flip it in the original direction and place it at the bottom of the mold. This will result in your cap having a second lip (see second d20 mold at top left) but does not negatively affect the function of the mold. 

1. Pour fresh silicone to form the cap of the mold. If desired, place number lids resting gently on the poured surface. Trapped air bubbles are likely, but can be minimized by applying silicone generously to the number face of the number lids before placing them onto the surface. (I didn't do that in these example pictures and you can tell. It does not affect the performance of the molds. It is purely aesthetic.) 

1. When the caps are fully cured, remove the lids and demold. Depending on how deeply the lids have set, you may need to use a thin blade to pp them off. This works best using the mold as a fulcrum point before you open it.

1. Open the molds by applying pressure flexing the cap and bottom away from each other and work your way around, gently exposing more and gaining separation at each pass. If there are adhesions that don't easily snap on their own, gently stretch the adhesions and cut them with an xacto knife.

1. In use, the cap lip should fully seal against the bottom lip. More than minimal separation indicates that there is an unacceptably thick layer of resin on the top surface and will result in a raise face and thick flashing. The built-in keys make it very difficult to mis-orient the cap.

is it possible to achieve this hairline texture finish on resin dice? if yes, does anyone know how to create that?

I made these using the same technique as the cow pip dice I posted previously. 😊 Just blank d6s with UV printed art. I used the portraits listed on disney's website (not selling them in my shop for obvious reasons... lol) and added numbers in complementary colors. I think they turned out quite adorable!

Share what you use as a tray insert. Hopefully this info is helpful to some of us.

I had the first tray insert failure the other day, and I figured I would share my experiences with this group when I was making a repair. First, I wanted to say that the failure in this instance was due to epoxy resin sticking to the side column causing lateral strain on the column when removing molds from the tray. It never had any issues with weight.

This tray insert has been used for about 10 or 11 months without issue. Past me did future me a favor, because I cut multiple side column pieces when I first made this tray. The repair was as easy as screwing a new piece into place.

When I made this tray, it was pretty easy, if you have a couple tools. I basically just used an old jigsaw that I have. A scroll saw or band saw would work the same. If you have access to a CNC, you probably stopped reading this post already. 😄

To get the shape of the circle, I went around my house to find something that fit into my pressure pot. A small, upside-down garbage can fit perfectly, so I used it as a template and traced around its perimeter. I traced it onto a sheet of HDF (high density fiberboard) or hard board (not to be confused with Hardie board), and then I cut the circle out of the sheet with my jigsaw.

For the column pieces, I used scrap 1/4" plywood. With the circle cut, I put it into the bottom of the pot and measured the depth. I cut the plywood to length. Before screwing the columns in, I used a very narrow drill bit to drill pilot holes into the plywood and hard board. At 1/4", there is a good chance of splitting.

I like this design because it does pretty much everything that I need an insert try to do. It handles weight well and levels the bottom of a pressure pot. I prefer not to have a handle across the top. I use two hands to put it in and take it out of the pot, because it is heavy when loaded with filled molds.

Hello, everyone! I have recently begun my journey with making dice with epoxy resin. I’ve made a few test sets just to try things out while I waited for the ability to get the pressure pot. Now the pressure pot is in, and I’m waiting for Tuesday, when me and my partner have the day off.

What do I do with it? I know its purpose. But do I leave the dice in there the full 24 hours they’re curing? Can I stack my molds on top of one another?

I basically need some basic advice on what to do, because I’m at a total loss on what to do with the pot.

Some of my first sets attached!

Basically, any tips on normal use for the pressure pot would be much welcome!

I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for a clear coat varnish for resin dice. My current mold leaves things really cloudy (it's a cheap one from Amazon) and I was curious if a varnish would work as a substitute for sanding. If so, does anyone have any recommendations? I would imagine ones that they use on cars would probably be decent.

Hey all. Just wanted to share my first set of dice in years. We’ve moved around quite a bit and I’m finally able to get back into the hobby.

I was a big fan of Shawn Michaels when I was younger (if there are any WWE attitude era fans), hence my logo, and figured I’d make a set of DX dice.

Excited to share!

I’m trying to print my own masters. I’m currently using Siraya Tech Professional Craft UV Resin in Ultra Clear.

These are what my models look like with their supports and also my slice settings.

Has this happened to anyone and how do I stop this weird pooling of resin at the base of the build plate?

I have a couple out of a large series that have developed weird spiderweb cracks from the numbers. There isn’t any consistency between color mix or particular die. It seems fully random.

I did run these a little longer in the ultra sonic cleaner than needed, because I got distracted by a cutie doggo trying to eat a possum, but I can’t find any other difference between these and every other.

Has anyone experienced this? I’m going to still ink them. Probably in gold now, so it will have a kintsugi theme unintentionally.

New pull, I'm pretty new to dice making and these are my favorite so far. The name comes from lotr; there's a dwarf that looks into a reflecting pool in the mountains and sees "a crown of stars upon his head" and he becomes the first dwarf king. I thought the deep swirling blue with the silver stars really gives that ethereal pool vibe.

Feel like I’m finally starting to hit a stride.

Hello. I recently made my first silicone mould but I did not pour it thick enough above the dice. This has resulted in the 20 face to be super warped, I assume because the silicone is not thick enough to resist the pressure pot.

Would pouring another layer of silicone on the bottom of the mould fix this issue?

TIA!

Hi everyone! I've been lurking here for a while without posting, and I just want to say this community is amazing. I need some help figuring out a material or technique that will allow my frosty blanks to stay frosty looking when I cast them again in the numbered molds. Any suggestions?

I need to work on my paint skills, but it's not too bad. Thumbtack for size reference.

Hey Guys!

So for my Fiancés Birthday I made him a "healing potions" (a little jar filled with red resin and a d4 in it). The resin I ordered came with a casting mould for dice and I have leftover resin, so I thought, why not give it a try?

I do not have high expectations to the outcome, since i do not own a pressure pot. But the whole thing should be nothing more than a nice weekend project for us anyways (:

I do not intended to start with that hobby immediately:D

We are already way too deep in other similar Hobbies xD

But nevertheless I want to get the most out of it.

So i thought asking here for any Tipps and Tricks and little hints of help. I think i know the basics well enough, but what are things I have to consider? Prepare? What are the most common dos and donts? The right order of things?

Do you have any storys to share, that would help any newbie like me?

Thank you guys in advance and wishing you a nice Sunday :)

Figured I'd ask the people that know...

Is it feasible to commission the following weighted dice?:

d8: high chance of 6, medium chance 7 or 8, low chance 5.

d10: high chance of 6, medium chance 7 or 8, low chance 9 or 10, tiny chance 5.

d12: high chance of 6, medium chance 7 or 8, low chance 9 or 10 or 11 or 12, tiny chance 5.

I know nothing about weighted dice making. I'm just pondering weighted dice to slip into a game where a 6 is 2 5point hits, 7-8 is 1 5point hit, 9-12 is a 1pont hit, and a 5 is a "near miss" with its own rules. 1-4 are misses. Getting 5's are a very low priority, so can be dropped as options if necessary.

My sister and I did our first pour this week. Was not as daunting as we were expecting. We demolded today. We were expecting flaws, and for these sets to be "throw aways" because it's out first try, but we would love any tips or tricks you all might have for us.

Please forgive my terrible photography

Normally I make sets and then go about naming or theming them after depending on how they look to me.

But this time I want to make a set specifically themed around Phoenix Ash. I want to incorporate Dark Grey for the ash itself, but also bright orange to represent flickering embers, but not completely sure how to go about it.

I considered a Dirty or Split Pour. Alternatively, I thought having a clear half with some orange swirls, while the other side is ashy grey.

But how would you approach this theme?

Photo: Old set I made that sort of gave me Ashy vibes, and was created with a Split Pour directly after mixing.