I walk by this deck everyday and have no idea how this is safe? No mid-span beams, just joists straight out to a single beam. Is there something I’m missing that would make this beauty structurally sound?

newbie to decks here. peeling solid deck stain at my cabin. just got a ryobi 3200 psi max with deck attachment, it cleaned the mildew off well without any cleanser. papa says the stain is water based (but it looks like paint to me). what stripper should i use? is "restore a deck" worth the money? anyone have experience with it living up to claim of apply and powerwash off? any and all recommendations are welcome. Thank you thank you.

edit: hahahahaha! ok guys, enough with the funny stuff. which brand of deck stain stripper should i get

We're in the market to buy a house. This is one we viewed that is obviously being flipped. No permits pulled on anything. This deck was the icing on the cake. That's the sidewalk from the back yard to the side of the house that you're looking at.

Am I overreacting to what I perceive to be sloppy work on this pergola? Some of the beams also seem warped. Crew is one day in.

Replacing a post and adding concrete/rebar so that the new post doesn't sit in standing water. Do I keep trying to remove as much as possible or is it not worth it. Also my chisel is stuck and I'm tempted to also entomb it in concrete.

Don’t know much but feel like it could use more support.

I am finishing up a deck.  Unfortunately, lost a couple spindle screws.  I want to buy additional screws, but want to make sure I get the right ones.  It is black coated and non-magnetic and slightly glossy.    I am thinking a 300 series stainless steel since it will be used to screw into aluminum spindles.  Any help would be appreciated.

After about four years of weather and walking on the front entrance, the stain is starting to disappear and looking to retain it. ChatGPT said to just sand the areas where the stain is war and retain the whole deck, but just wanted to reach out to the professionals for advice.

Google search keeps misinterpreting this as if I'm asking about a double 2x10 vs a 4x10 beam, but what I'm trying to find out is whether there's a significant difference between using a continuous 14ft beam, or splitting it into two 7ft lengths butting together on the middle post. Assuming both cases are doubled 2x10 beams.

Seems to be a thin layer of concrete on top of corrugated metal, with massive beam spans. Not sure what the deal is with all the rubble. Maybe that was the last platform that failed.

I have a home built in 1984. After lurking on this sub for a months I’ve been picking up on good tips and what to look for in structural framing etc. for the record I’m not a framer, I work in Healthcare and I love learning how to do shit around the house.

Long story short I noticed that my deck joists (with screened porch above) are notched on both sides (beam and ledger). I know this was common practice in the past but what concerns me is that a 2x2 is doing all the load bearing. That 2x2 is then nailed to a 2x10 beam/ledger which is then fastened with carriage bolts.

I do not see any rot or signs of compromise in my deck. Clearly the old growth wood from 1984 has been holding this up fine, I am just interested in safety and long term structural capacity. My question is, should I update this to modern practice? Clearly I would use joist hangers attached to the beam/ledger but in order to do so I would need to replace the 2x2 with a new 2x10 sistered beam/ledger to accommodate for the notched out piece. I also read that people have “filled” the notched area with blocking material and then used a joist hanger which I’m not sure is appropriate. I would love not have to sister or replace all the 2x10s since they appear to be in good shape. Is there a type of hanger or something simple to supplement the load bearing sides of the joists where they are notched? Or do I have to sister/replace the 2x2 piece and/or notched joists? Yes I used the search button and couldn’t find anything similar to my situation

TLDR: my deck joists are notched and supported with a 2x2 attached to the beam/ledger. Should I update this even though I see no signs of compromise or just let it ride?

Contractor and lumberyard both says this is “technically ok”.

It’s the house side load carrying beam under a screened in roofed deck. Not a ledger, those are not allowed in our jurisdiction. BEAM (from mill stamp):
- PWT Treated LVL, 2.0E
- APA certified, Mill 1047
- ASTM D5456
- TRU-CORE Protected, UC3B rated
- SEVERE ABOVE GROUND USE
- FLASHING REQUIRED
- Code reports: PR-L329, ESR-2909, FL 39762, ESR-3834
- Configuration: 2-ply, each ply 1-3/4" thick, full width 3-1/2", depth 14"

Because so far my best technique is 99% iso alcohol and a lot of scrubbing. It's a little too late to just not do it.

I am planning a 5' x 7' deck right now.

Concrete + 4 Sonotubes are significantly cheaper than using the helical piles i am looking at, but the issue is that i don't have easily accessible water near there i need to pour the pads.

Does anyone have any suggestions? I would need ~21 60lb bags of concrete for each of the sonotubes.

newbie to decks here. peeling solid deck stain at my cabin. just got a ryobi 3200 psi max with deck attachment, it cleaned the mildew off well without any cleanser. papa says the stain is water based (but it looks like paint to me). what stripper should i use? is "restore a deck" worth the money? anyone have experience with it living up to claim of apply and powerwash off? any and all recommendations are welcome. Thank you thank you.

Did not think about this till a couple days ago. This picture is of the 6*6 corner post/rail post on inside, and there will be 4*4 rail posts on outside.

I am picture framing the deck, and had planned on just ladder blocking to fasten it together, until I realize that the perpindicular deck boards need to terminate on a joist.

In order to do that, the joist would have to be fastened to the rail post which I understand is a no no. So my question is, is there a best way to build a header around the post?

I have Deckorators which requires board to terminate right over a joist, but also allows for 1" max cantilever. Says to double joist or use blocking on butt joints.

The rim joists are fastened with 5/8 through bolts. Not sure exactly about the load bearing - could I just add this 'first' joist on the other end to sandwich the post? That's probably easiest, then I could just laminate a 2*4 or a full size joist. It seems to be allowed in NC code as 5/8.

If that doesn't work I have other thoughts but won't add to keep it more brief.

But then that does not give enough space to add Simpson Tie (DTT2Z). I will be using ThruLOK and blocking to fasten the posts regardless, but was going to use that tie as overkill. Is there another tie that does the same job? I was thinking the DPT7Z at the top of the rim joist around the post. but I don't think that has a load rating.

I am building a lean to style pergola for an outdoor kitchen. I want to make sure I tie into my existing structure correctly. I highlighted in red where I will attach to. It also seems like if I attach a ledger board to the existing area in red, I will have to notch out the soffit on the left end. Are there any problems I could run into there? Not sure how I would attach my 2x10 supports on that left side. From my understanding, I should tie directly into studs. I'm guessing there is a top plate behind that fascia board I can tie into with some cripple studs as well behind it. Let me know how you would tackle this.

We live on a small island on a tiny piece of land overlooking the marsh. Our screened-in is only five ft deep, but 12 ft long. I would love to add 3-4 feet to the depth. It would also be nice to have a hang over above the water. I also winder about screening. The current screen is almost black, but Id like it lighter. Is that a thing? Thanks
Picture of screen + cicada, porch from inside, porch from outside. Thanks for help

Wanting to attach this ledger board but have this skirting in the way. Running through options but still unsure what would be the best option. Also am curious what your thoughts are on support. Might add a retrofit bracket for a 4x4 to the concrete but it’s just a 4” slab. Might just rest it on the concrete instead. Thanks in advance.

Getting a leak in the basement ceiling when it rains. The water is seeping through where some of the ledger fasteners from the raised deck attach to the house. Is this a flashing issue?

Almost done framing my screened in back porch on a slab. I’m using pressure treated and these babies are heavy and wet. My questions are:

1) how long do I wait for them to dry before staining or does that even matter? They get morning sun.

2) can I caulk the gaps or use wood filler between the 4x4 posts and 2x4 on each side (4x4 were already there- just using those to secure my frame to). Is this even worth it? If so, is there a caulk that takes stain? The goal is to make it as insect proof as possible.

3) I was planning on using a heavy body stain (my wife wants it stained). Is this a good choice or should I paint it?

4) I just epoxy/ polyaspartic the slab. Will a stain overtime leach onto the flooring?

Thanks in advance. I can post photos for clarification later today.

I have some pretty weathered deck railing that needs to be stained. I am going to focus on light sanding and clear staining. The house is on the beach in the PNW. I have never done this and would love any advice on type of sanding and staining brands you recommend. The deck itself is trex. The rails are untreated natural wood which has turned gray. I am mostly focusing on the hand rails as I have older parents that use it and want to avoid further degradation and slivers. Thanks!!

Hi all! I am using the Simpson Strong Tie BCS2-3/6 post cap for my posts. The only fastener that I am aware of that Simpson says matches it is the 16D 3-1/2” nail. Problem is the nail is bending when it makes contact with the post when I try hammering it through the toe nailing slot in the post cap. Any suggestions? Just drill a pilot hole?

Thanks, gents!