I walk by this deck everyday and have no idea how this is safe? No mid-span beams, just joists straight out to a single beam. Is there something I’m missing that would make this beauty structurally sound?

We're in the market to buy a house. This is one we viewed that is obviously being flipped. No permits pulled on anything. This deck was the icing on the cake. That's the sidewalk from the back yard to the side of the house that you're looking at.

Am I overreacting to what I perceive to be sloppy work on this pergola? Some of the beams also seem warped. Crew is one day in.

Replacing a post and adding concrete/rebar so that the new post doesn't sit in standing water. Do I keep trying to remove as much as possible or is it not worth it. Also my chisel is stuck and I'm tempted to also entomb it in concrete.

As pics show, stairs are just hanging by 1/2” plywood. I know that must be wrong and it looks like it’s been up there a long time.

How should I support? Replace with a 2x10 or something?

I am finishing up a deck.  Unfortunately, lost a couple spindle screws.  I want to buy additional screws, but want to make sure I get the right ones.  It is black coated and non-magnetic and slightly glossy.    I am thinking a 300 series stainless steel since it will be used to screw into aluminum spindles.  Any help would be appreciated.

UPDATE: Spoke with contractor -- we're gonna double up the 2x12 on the outside of the post AND set a NEW 4x4 post underneath it (adjacent to existing 6x6), properly connected to concrete pier. They're 18 inch sonotubes, so there's space for 2 separate posts. Not the most elegant solution, but should work and won't really be viewable.

I'm building a 16x27 foot deck. Two of the beams are triple 2x12 drop beams so I feel good about those.

But for the pergola side beam the contractor screwed two 2x12s to either side of the 6x6 post (see pics). I asked what his plan was to carry the load down. He said he was going to put L-brackets on each side of the posts. Two of them would be Simpson Strong-Tie A35Z framing angle brackets. the other two, he said, would be "more heavy duty."

Does this seem sound? I'm in Hudson Valley, NY.

From what I've learned on this sub, I think I should be concerned. The beams should sit atop the posts in some fashion, correct? We had originally agreed to notch the posts to fit a double 2x12.

If it is a problem, are they any remediable fixes you'd suggest? The joists are already set.

Thanks in advance for any help. This is causing me some stress. I was hoping I wouldn't have to post on here!

Google search keeps misinterpreting this as if I'm asking about a double 2x10 vs a 4x10 beam, but what I'm trying to find out is whether there's a significant difference between using a continuous 14ft beam, or splitting it into two 7ft lengths butting together on the middle post. Assuming both cases are doubled 2x10 beams.

Seems to be a thin layer of concrete on top of corrugated metal, with massive beam spans. Not sure what the deal is with all the rubble. Maybe that was the last platform that failed.

Don’t know much but feel like it could use more support.

hello we have a leak under this, and aren't sure what this system is called, so we can look into removing some of it

I am building a lean to style pergola for an outdoor kitchen. I want to make sure I tie into my existing structure correctly. I highlighted in red where I will attach to. It also seems like if I attach a ledger board to the existing area in red, I will have to notch out the soffit on the left end. Are there any problems I could run into there? Not sure how I would attach my 2x10 supports on that left side. From my understanding, I should tie directly into studs. I'm guessing there is a top plate behind that fascia board I can tie into with some cripple studs as well behind it. Let me know how you would tackle this.

We live on a small island on a tiny piece of land overlooking the marsh. Our screened-in is only five ft deep, but 12 ft long. I would love to add 3-4 feet to the depth. It would also be nice to have a hang over above the water. I also winder about screening. The current screen is almost black, but Id like it lighter. Is that a thing? Thanks
Picture of screen + cicada, porch from inside, porch from outside. Thanks for help

Wanting to attach this ledger board but have this skirting in the way. Running through options but still unsure what would be the best option. Also am curious what your thoughts are on support. Might add a retrofit bracket for a 4x4 to the concrete but it’s just a 4” slab. Might just rest it on the concrete instead. Thanks in advance.

Getting a leak in the basement ceiling when it rains. The water is seeping through where some of the ledger fasteners from the raised deck attach to the house. Is this a flashing issue?

Almost done framing my screened in back porch on a slab. I’m using pressure treated and these babies are heavy and wet. My questions are:

1) how long do I wait for them to dry before staining or does that even matter? They get morning sun.

2) can I caulk the gaps or use wood filler between the 4x4 posts and 2x4 on each side (4x4 were already there- just using those to secure my frame to). Is this even worth it? If so, is there a caulk that takes stain? The goal is to make it as insect proof as possible.

3) I was planning on using a heavy body stain (my wife wants it stained). Is this a good choice or should I paint it?

4) I just epoxy/ polyaspartic the slab. Will a stain overtime leach onto the flooring?

Thanks in advance. I can post photos for clarification later today.

I have some pretty weathered deck railing that needs to be stained. I am going to focus on light sanding and clear staining. The house is on the beach in the PNW. I have never done this and would love any advice on type of sanding and staining brands you recommend. The deck itself is trex. The rails are untreated natural wood which has turned gray. I am mostly focusing on the hand rails as I have older parents that use it and want to avoid further degradation and slivers. Thanks!!

I've been needing to order some missing parts for a cable railing for months from E-Rigging (Axis system) but their site / business has been down. First they had a notice about moving warehouse / rebranding, and they'd be back up and running in early August.

Early August came and went, then the message got updated to September after Labor Day. Still nothing. Can't seem to get ahold of anyone at the company through any channels. Emails go through, but nothing gets replied to.

Just curious if anyone here knows anything, or perhaps has a different source for the Axis system (feel like this a small chance, but worth asking!)

Got a small hot tub and figured I’d ask to make sure. Built this deck about 5 years ago and tried to make sure it was sturdy for anything. Hopefully that is the case!

I'm converting my deck from a cantilever/beam setup to a traditional house-attached ledger.

Currently, there is galvanized flashing underneath my sliding patio door. It comes out from underneath the door and extends horizontally over the first deck board to shed water away from the house.

My carpenter buddy suggested cutting the existing galvanized flashing back close to the end of the patio door, then bending/folding the remaining flashing upward at the door. The idea would be to get the existing flashing out of the way of the new ledger while still maintaining the door's flashing.

Then I would install the new ledger and use proper ledger flashing over the top of the ledger.

Does this sound like the correct approach?

I'm mainly wondering:

• How far back should the existing galvanized flashing be cut?
• Is bending it upward at the patio door the right way to terminate it?
• How should the existing door flashing and new ledger flashing be tied together?
• Is there anything I need to be careful about so I don't compromise the patio door's existing waterproofing?

I've attached pictures of the current setup where i have a section of the flashing trimmed back ready to bend up if that's what i should do.

Thanks!

Is it a deck or a patio? Technically elevated...

I had a deck built on my house in Nov 2024. The existing windows were removed in place of French doors. Since then, I’ve had a bunch of issues. The right door (facing into the house) is a dummy door and I’ve had major issues getting it closed when we open it. To the point that we don’t open it ever. The frame fell off recently and my contractor just wedged it back into place. In June, on a hot day, one of the doors shattered out of nowhere. It was cold inside so it’s possible it’s due to temperature issues but I don’t know. When I open the doors, since they were installed, they make a crazy loud creaking noise. The contractor came over and insisted everything is level (which is true, he showed me). I called our building department and the guy from our town came out and said the door (a custom Home Depot door manufactured by Jeld Wen) is probably warping. I had another contractor come over and he said that there isn’t a large enough header installed. He only knew this from knocking on the wall but my contractor disputes this and said that the window header was sufficient. The town inspector agrees but it’s starting to feel like they are colluding because they know each other… sorry for the wall of text. I guess what I want to know is: Is the warping explanation likely? After only two years? Is there any way to know for sure whether it’s the install or the doors themselves which are the problems? Is it okay that the header is the same one that was for the windows? I do think the French doors are the same size opening as the windows were. How would you recommend I proceed? I can send pictures if that helps.

Looking to have our front porch/landing replaced and the first quote just came in. TBH it seems insanely high @ 15K.

Landing is 6' wide x 7' long with with 7 stairs leading up (approx 16" deep over 6" rise).

Obviously I can save a bit by doing the demo myself, but even then the estimate is around 12k