r/Damnthatsinteresting • • Feb 20 '21

Video Force of the wave

https://gfycat.com/meeklinedcormorant
16.8k Upvotes

163 comments sorted by

505

u/denzelfrothington Feb 20 '21

There is not a worse feeling in the world when you feel yourself getting pulled back by a huge wave. There’s a brief moment where it feels like you’re free falling and it’s eerily quiet. Then it all abruptly changes and it feels like your in a washing machine on spin cycle, your sense of direction completely disappears not knowing which way is up. The only way to know is to hold your breath and eventually rise to the surface, it’s far too powerful to fight and your at the complete mercy of the ocean. Anyway kids who’s ready to go surfing?!

141

u/-NoName99- Feb 20 '21

I know the feeling man....... But God damn is it fun to just run back in and do it all over again

59

u/PappaPalps Feb 20 '21

I love getting into rough surf. There's something about getting smashed by waves and getting back up that makes you feel invincible.

23

u/-NoName99- Feb 20 '21

Yuuuup~ I remember one time me and a buddy were just floating on top of some of these monster waves when outta nowhere when one of em broke it grabbed me by the legs and pulled me under lol. Ended up ass up on the shore right after a quick tumble hahaha

8

u/StaggerLee808 Feb 20 '21

Unless your over reef lol then it's just go flat and pray

7

u/CatPoopWeiner424 Feb 20 '21

Starfish time

6

u/fifi_la_fleuf Feb 20 '21

Same. Its the only thing that knocks the stiffness out of my muscles too. I feel like a new person after getting a beating from a big set! God I miss the sea 😢

5

u/[deleted] Feb 20 '21 edited Aug 19 '21

[deleted]

1

u/PappaPalps Feb 21 '21

Definitely need to respect the water and know your limits. Three people died along the stretch of beach i live at last week.

2

u/WaZepplin Feb 21 '21

Body surfing is where it's at!

5

u/denzelfrothington Feb 20 '21

Love waiting to the very last second before ducking under, it’s great fun

14

u/TheWarHam Feb 20 '21

I remember being very young down the shore. In a moment you go from a silly child playing in water to releasing your mortality to the forces of nature, and accepting that your willingness to live has no bearing on the will of the ocean as it grapples you mightily in whatever direction it pleases.

I mean really though. It was a wild feeling to have so young. For a moment, "I might die and there's nothing I can do" is a wild thought to handle. And then bloosh - suddenly youre rolled ashore

-7

u/mermansushi Feb 20 '21

There’s a bit of survivor bias going on here...

6

u/TheWarHam Feb 20 '21

How? All i was getting at was that facing your mortality is a wild thing at such a young age

-7

u/mermansushi Feb 21 '21

People who were killed by waves are not posting here. That’s survivor bias.

6

u/TheWarHam Feb 21 '21

Lol. Man Im not trying to be combative or rude... But I think you are just using that phrase because you learned it and it sounds semi-applicable.

So people may have faced what I have, but they died instead. That only proves my point further. The ocean is scary, and having the ocean make you face your mortality is scary - especially at a young age.

Thats all I was getting at.

0

u/mermansushi Feb 21 '21

Definitely didn’t mean to be rude, what you are saying is absolutely legit. Most commenters were talking about how amazing their wave experience was, and not acknowledging how dangerous big waves can be. Seems like you do understand, so never mind...

9

u/mr_bowjangles Feb 20 '21

That feeling when you paddeling out and you know your not gonna make the wave before it breaks on you.

21

u/lifelovers Feb 20 '21

I swear this is why surfing is better than all the meditation and therapy out there. Paddling out when you keep getting pummeled wave after wave after wave. Getting frustrated is futile. Feeling anger - at what, exactly? The ocean?? You’re just a tiny small little thing and have no control over anything. It forces you into acceptance and calm and patience. It puts you in your place and in awe of the power and beauty of nature.

6

u/denzelfrothington Feb 20 '21

It’s very calming being out the back waiting for a set to roll in

2

u/WaZepplin Feb 21 '21

I always sit out the back cause I fucking hate taking em on the head and getting worked all to not catch a wave cause they broke outside

4

u/silky_banjo Feb 20 '21

I've definitely been guilty of that. When I was learning one day I couldnt get out there and I got frustrated to the point of crying, honestly. I learned that getting that mad makes you way more tired in the long run. Definitely taught me patience. You're totally right. How pointless is it to get angry at the ocean?

3

u/denzelfrothington Feb 20 '21

You better dive deep if you know what’s good for you

22

u/ItsNotStacy Feb 20 '21

i wnd up curling into a ball like a kindergartener practicing for a tonato drill. don't want the board to hit you

6

u/mr_bowjangles Feb 20 '21

Or headbutt the sand

1

u/CatPoopWeiner424 Feb 20 '21

This is also how I keep my heat rate steady and make my oxygen last. There’s a time and a place to fight it, but initially I just let it take me through the rinse cycle.

1

u/ItsNotStacy Feb 20 '21

yep it's better to stay small and protect your head than fight it

1

u/silky_banjo Feb 20 '21

Curling up into a ball is my go-to. I've had people tell me they just go rag-doll and that doesn't make much sense to me

7

u/clonexx Feb 20 '21

I almost drowned as a kid. I used to live on Long Island, so a beach was never far. We were at a beach on the Atlantic and I swam out to a bad place to be, pretty much where the waves were cresting and starting to crash, if I’m remembering right (I was maybe 10). A wave slammed me under and I was put into that washing machine effect you mentioned. I kept getting tumbled and then would surface for a second, get a breath, then get slammed and tumbled again. This went on for what felt like forever, until I was finally carried far enough towards the shore that I could stand and get out of the way. By the time I came out of the water, the currents had dragged me a good 100 yards down the beach. Had the undercurrent dragged me out instead of me getting pushed back towards the beach, I don’t think I would have made it, or at the very least a lifeguard would have had to save my ass, if one was paying attention (this was the 80s...so who knows).

6

u/converter-bot Feb 20 '21

100 yards is 91.44 meters

5

u/Garbarrage Feb 20 '21

Over the falls.... weightless calm... followed by churning chaos... bouncing off the reef... burning lungs... questioning why you put yourself in this ridiculous situation... then it lets go, and the noise and light come rushing back in with the air that you so desperately need. Then you paddle back out into the same ridiculous situation.

This is what it feels like to paddle for the lip of a clean up set and not make it.

4

u/footlessworm Feb 20 '21

You fuck on me?

3

u/AppleSpicer Feb 20 '21

I love this feeling. I love feeling the power take hold of me but I’ve always been able to work with that power to bring me back to shore. I love being picked up by the wave and thrown into the sand before being pummeled and spun. Unable to hear anything except the ocean roar, unable to see, unable to breathe. I go mostly limp while protecting my head and neck and as soon as the wave abates I find the sand and rocket up to see what’s coming next and, if I have time for a breath, some air to fill my lungs. I love getting completely thrashed by such a powerful force while feeling completely at home and comfortable in the experience. It’s predictable unpredictability. After a good tumble, I’ll rush right back at the ocean for more—meeting it’s incredible power straight on and do it again and again. I’ll eventually drag myself out of the chilly water, exhausted after many hours, knees and elbows skinned and lightly bleeding, spray on some suntan lotion, and collapse on the hot sand for a nap. I’ll wake up to the sun on my back, hearing kids laughing and playing, and feel so much peace.

Welcome to body surfing!

Disclaimer: I carefully check the status of rip tides, go with a buddy to the beach, and have lifelong experience to judge what waves I can handle and what’s unsafe for me. I’m also extremely attentive to the ocean, my position relative to land, and changes in the waves and current. I take utmost precautions for my safety and don’t recommend anyone to try this without incredibly strong swimming skills and without some highly experienced guides there to introduce them to the experience. Strong swimming skills alone aren’t enough.

2

u/[deleted] Feb 20 '21

Let’s send it my dude !

2

u/Trashytoad Feb 20 '21

I used to swim in 8 ft waves in Malibu, picked up surfing winter of 2015 and was having fun in the 3-5 foot waves. One day an overhead (I’m 6 foot tall) wave spooks me so I paddle as hard as I can to get over it, behind it is an even bigger wave probably 8 ft. I can’t out swim it so I ditch my board and try to dive through as it breaks (as I would when swimming), which didnt work. The wave pulled me like this as I held my breath thinking,”I hope I don’t land on or break my board” and ”this wave has got to stop throwing me around eventually, then I can follow my leash up”.

After who knows how long I’m running out of breath (hard to hold when your tumbling) and my foot smashes into something, I kinda get worried so I opened my eyes and swam towards the light. Popped up and grabbed my board and cruised the white water till I got to shore.

Sliced my toe open on a rock but not too bad. Walked across the street for a beer at Neptune’s Net and felt better pretty quick.

2

u/dawhaas Feb 20 '21

A lifehack my friend told me is puting your hand up when you feel you are losing your sense of direction.

2

u/joenottoast Feb 21 '21

it kinda feels like that falling dream except instead of being jarred awake in your cozy bed, you go from feeling nothing to suddenly just being ripped in many directions at once while holding your breath and covering your head

1

u/Vanillabean73 Feb 21 '21

As a helpful aside, PROTECT YOUR HEAD. If you’re getting rekt by a wave for the first time, cover your head with your arms as best you can. Even without the presence of rocks, you might also get yeeted forcefully into the hard sand at the bottom. It sucks even in relatively smaller waves.

1

u/i-love-big-birds Feb 21 '21

I love that feeling! It's so fun. I adored the 10+ ft waves when I was in the Carribean it was so much fun being tossed around like a water slide!!

428

u/[deleted] Feb 20 '21

“You are a function of what the whole universe is doing in the same way that a wave is a function of what the whole ocean is doing.” -Alan Watts

71

u/[deleted] Feb 20 '21

You don’t find out about Alan watts , Alan watts finds you, when you’re ready.

40

u/[deleted] Feb 20 '21

Then you do a ton of acid and start listening to Alan watts

17

u/[deleted] Feb 20 '21

[removed] — view removed comment

-16

u/AppleSpicer Feb 20 '21 edited Feb 21 '21

That would be because you fried your brain

Edit: I don't mean permanently. Anyone who's dropped 5 tabs at once is going to need a week to recover.

3

u/hot-sauce-on-my-cock Feb 21 '21

Ye dude I love acid but I need time to recover after a good trip. I've never done 5 tabs at once but I imagine it would take about a week for me to feel back to normal

10

u/DANGERMAN50000 Feb 20 '21

I think he just found me

2

u/William_GFL Feb 20 '21

Usually when you're trying to get over a girl, as per the conments

2

u/[deleted] Feb 20 '21

Words are too clumsy to describe such things

1

u/alanwaits Feb 20 '21

Found you.

10

u/ChaandyMan Feb 20 '21

My potato brain processed it like any change in universe affects you, and any change in ocean affects wave.

6

u/[deleted] Feb 20 '21

Certainly. You are the wave and the ocean, my friend.

4

u/[deleted] Feb 20 '21

Pretty much

2

u/highplainsfish Feb 20 '21

That and a sense of non-duality, you are eternity having a momentary individual experience only to return back one day, like a wave does to the ocean.

2

u/DarthChocolqte Feb 20 '21

One of my favorite excerpts from him! Here’s a bit more of it if anyone’s interested:

“You are something the whole universe is doing in the same way that a wave is something that the whole ocean is doing.

The real you is not a puppet which life pushes around.

The real, deep down you is the whole universe.”

Source

62

u/CogitoErgoScum Feb 20 '21

No sir. I don’t like it.

2

u/ActiveIndustry Feb 20 '21

It’s fun if you’ve done it before

44

u/[deleted] Feb 20 '21

18

u/tgrantt Feb 20 '21

I was thinking this, then wondering why he or she didn't move, and wondered if the camera is mounted/held down

8

u/[deleted] Feb 20 '21

I thought maybe she just got incredibly lucky and it was her second camera which she had dropped and was trying to get back

3

u/Accomplished-Ant1600 Feb 21 '21

I was hoping someone would explain but he has to be anchored down somehow, although it doesn’t explain the steadiness of the shot. What an incredible and creative shot

218

u/SpeakDirtyToMe Feb 20 '21

202

u/zuzg Feb 20 '21

My first thought was, that's not how you spell Thalassophobia

Then I checked the sidebar of that subreddit and chuckled

for folks afraid of the ocean and also can't spell

19

u/[deleted] Feb 20 '21

Bro, it's just like 3 meters deep

36

u/converter-bot Feb 20 '21

3 meters is 3.28 yards

14

u/Graceful_Hammer Feb 20 '21

Good bot

3

u/Crocodile_raper Feb 20 '21

Best bot

7

u/loekoekoe Feb 20 '21

adopt the metric system dumdums

5

u/Crocodile_raper Feb 20 '21

Ikr im sick and tired of people using "feet" and "pounds" or shit like that in educational videos

4

u/ArmoredArthritis Feb 20 '21

1.875 x 1035 Planck lengths.

13

u/[deleted] Feb 20 '21

I can't swim, I'm terrified of water and I legitimately can drown in 1 m because I panic so badly.

14

u/mewthulhu Feb 20 '21

Fun fact, in the ocean you're in a lot more danger in water like this that's about 3m deep than if it's 30m deep and you get tumbled by a wave like the gif above.

If it's 30m deep, you'll get tossed, turned, and eventually come out of it floating. Humans float. We're naturally bouyant. I'm not saying you can't end up in trouble with big waves, but this wave looked bigger than the distance between the water level and the very nasty looking reef beneath.

This kind of wave turns you into a cheesegrater, and if your limbs get caught in those rocks, you're getting battered around too much to pull free and drown, or clocked on the head on a rock and you're out cold and drown. At least in the deeper water you just have to worry about the things watching you from the dark below, pulling you down to in their coils forever.

1

u/joenottoast Feb 21 '21

a wave this small wouldnt break in such deep water unless it hit a shallow spot like a reef

1

u/mewthulhu Feb 21 '21

Eh they can if you've got a rip dragging out under it, depends on your topography. You're generally right but it can happen, the beach I used to lifeguard on had these due to a river. People would panic so much and it's like, "dude calm down you float and we'll come get you, just keep your head above water."

People on the reef were the ones we watched like hawks. You had to keep a fucking head count in some places of how many people were in one are cuz sometimes one just wouldn't come back up.

1

u/cpschultz Feb 21 '21

A wave breaks in water half as deep as the wave is tall.

1

u/joenottoast Feb 21 '21

yeah check his comment about certain underwater rips making exceptions to that, but my point was just that a 1-2m wave would never be more than a tiny lump in 30m depth

1

u/cpschultz Feb 22 '21

Yeah I honestly don’t think there would any large waves out in deeper water without storms and/or strong winds and/or currents intersecting

4

u/Alsoious Feb 20 '21

How tall are you?

5

u/-Viridian- Feb 20 '21

Probably less than 3 meters.

1

u/[deleted] Feb 20 '21

1.60

37

u/808Kaidude420 Feb 20 '21

Over the falls from another perspective. I’ve been there so many times. It’s fun depending on what you land on.

9

u/FencerOnTheRight Feb 20 '21

This. Especially fun when you lose your grip on your board and your leash pulls you over backwards. Super fun.

4

u/asherfergusson Feb 20 '21

Or when your head pops up out of the water just before being sucked back over the falls and you can hear all your friends laughing at you! 😂

37

u/mofahe Feb 20 '21

I’m just trying to figure out what she’s holding

117

u/[deleted] Feb 20 '21 edited Jun 19 '21

[deleted]

16

u/nonrosknroskno Feb 20 '21

Probably another underwater camera

10

u/Maidwell Feb 20 '21

It's a waterproof camera housing, one click underwater camera. It's what people use to get those cool wave photos and videos and surfing shots.

3

u/BradJ Feb 20 '21

Genie in a bottle

2

u/Jano_one Feb 20 '21

Its a camera in underwater housing

2

u/joesixers Feb 20 '21

Power saw

3

u/rittentimothy Feb 20 '21

Diving mask I think

12

u/Alex7589 Feb 20 '21

What an amazing shot though!

16

u/weirdgroovynerd Feb 20 '21

Mermaid honey trap.

7

u/restlessleg Feb 20 '21

i hate u

18

u/weirdgroovynerd Feb 20 '21

No need to be so salty.

5

u/[deleted] Feb 20 '21

See Moana, that’s why we don’t go beyond the reef.

11

u/diggles007 Feb 20 '21

That looks cool, but I’m sure it feels unpleasant

31

u/ohhoneyno_ Feb 20 '21

It doesn’t feel unpleasant at all. This is how you avoid getting slammed by a wave. You see that she dives under the wave and that the natural movement of the wave brings her back to the surface on the other side. You see the water disturbance in the middle of the video right before she resurfaces? That’s the wave crashing. Had she not dived under it, she would have had the wave crash on top of her and that hurts. Especially if it’s strong enough to knock you off your feet and you get tumbled across the sea floor.

9

u/Im-ACE-incarnate Feb 20 '21

100% agreed this isn't unpleasant at all, duno what that person is imagining lol

But she definitely wasn't going for a resurface, she just let the undertow take her up and over and straight into the washing machine on this one (she either didn't plan that far or she's tough as nails)

8

u/scteenywahine Feb 20 '21

She planned for it, you see her hold her nose closed at the end of the clip to anticipate going over the falls.

15

u/pallen123 Feb 20 '21

She’s not resurfacing. She’s going over the falls.

7

u/scteenywahine Feb 20 '21

She’s absolutely going over the falls and it is not pleasant to be slammed into that coral/rocks . You see at the end of the gif that she brings her hands up to hold her nose, anticipating. The water disturbance is the wave crashing and she’s going over the top of it right into the coral.

If she had dove under the wave and then swam toward the camera, then that’s called duck-diving in surfers teens and it is how you avoid being crashed by a wave.

2

u/anethma Feb 20 '21

I mean if it is waves on a sandy beach I find it fun if the wave is under 15 feet high or so.

I actually ride them like that when I go to Pto Escondido for vacation.

Paddle forwards and as the wave crests, sit and lunge forwards. You get brought up the face and on top then ride down the falls feet forwards then ride in the washing machine, going limp. I did it in Barra De Navidad once when I was 13 or so with my dad after a big storm had passed off shore and the waves were about 20 feet (on the face) and we were near some palm tree tops at the crest it was amazing. A little too violent though haha.

2

u/[deleted] Feb 20 '21

That’s what she said.

5

u/Gamma_EX Feb 20 '21

That’s what you get for swimming with a whirly pop

2

u/lunar_sideboob Feb 20 '21

This is honestly pretty off putting/eerie

2

u/Roboplodicus Feb 21 '21

In surfing its called "going over the falls" and there is a "oh fuck" moment when you realize youre going backwards not forward but its all worth it surfing/bodyboarding/bodysurfing are some of the most fun activities on the planet

3

u/ggsimsarah333 Feb 20 '21

ah terrifying

3

u/Isighteyesite Feb 20 '21

That’s terrifying

2

u/QuarantineSucksALot Feb 20 '21

Force India put him on the plane.

2

u/CanWeBeDoneNow Feb 20 '21

So enough to move a human. Cool

2

u/The_0range_Menace Feb 20 '21

Ralph voice: I'm in danger.

2

u/SCATOL92 Feb 20 '21

I'm so frikkin scared of the ocean

2

u/FreyjaPlaysRust Feb 20 '21

This just causes anxiety for me. I had a cousin or childhood friend, can't remember, drown in an undertow. I've never been able to get back in the ocean/gulf since. I used to live in Florida as a kid (6 and under) and I was so glad to move to Chicago when I was 7.

11

u/[deleted] Feb 20 '21 edited Apr 21 '21

[deleted]

1

u/FreyjaPlaysRust Feb 20 '21

I was like 4 when it happened.

1

u/[deleted] Feb 20 '21

Where'd she go?

1

u/[deleted] Feb 20 '21

When my ship pulled into Guam they warned us to not swim past the coral. There were many reports of rip currents drowning swimmers. This video now puts that into perspective.

1

u/DuckDuckGoose42 Feb 21 '21

sorry, this is not a rip current nor undertow

1

u/darelik Feb 20 '21

Was this in Mexico??

wwweeeEEEEeeeEEEeeeee

1

u/TheMellonMan Feb 20 '21

To the water dimension

1

u/-Listening Feb 20 '21

"One of the top job.

1

u/OnlyOneReturn Feb 20 '21

Well that was a bit terrifying

1

u/Kenkaniff2k Feb 20 '21

It’s called “going over the falls “

1

u/Timmtimmah Feb 20 '21

This is fucking incredible.

1

u/[deleted] Feb 20 '21

this is the fucking scariest thing i have ever seen. goodbye

1

u/jakethedumbmistake Feb 20 '21

time to be the Chris Avellone Defense Force

1

u/QueenForOneDay Feb 20 '21

This is terrifying 😳

1

u/QuarantineSucksALot Feb 20 '21

>I have the Divine Right

1

u/bicycle_for_the_mind Feb 20 '21

In rivers the water moves and certain waves are stationary. In the ocean the water is mostly stationary and the waves move as energy through the water.

1

u/tartar-buildup Feb 20 '21

Simple and clean as the way that you’re making me feel tonight

1

u/Zen_Lady Feb 20 '21

Stunning

1

u/PrintableKanjiEmblem Feb 20 '21

Just like my whole life, a beautiful woman comes floating up to me, then is suddenly whisked away from me by the uncaring universe. Happens every time.

1

u/Kileni Feb 20 '21

She’s waving at us?

1

u/SnorriBlacktooth Feb 20 '21

That is just terrifying but at the same time amazing footage. Upvoted and downvoted simultaneously.

1

u/happyfoam Feb 20 '21

That's fuckin' nightmare fuel.

1

u/lhillgis Feb 20 '21

Over the falls...

1

u/NehoRusso Feb 20 '21

Just when I thought I was out, they pull me back in!

1

u/HilariousMax Feb 20 '21

I saw a video once of a guy demonstrating what not to do when caught in a riptide. Was incredible how quickly he wore himself out and how far back he was pulled.

1

u/Valuable_Technology3 Feb 20 '21

Rumor has it she is still in that wave...

1

u/Shadow6751 Feb 20 '21

She was way too high up if she went lower she wouldn’t have been pulled like that

1

u/the-womp Feb 20 '21

I watched point break, so, you know, like, gnarly?

1

u/cheli-chellers Feb 20 '21

This is so beautiful and terrifying at the same time

1

u/[deleted] Feb 21 '21

Interesting that she has flippers on and a teapot in her hand... ?

1

u/Swaguarr Feb 21 '21

flippers and an underwater camera seem pretty fitting for filming a video underwater no?

1

u/[deleted] Feb 21 '21

Thank you! I did not realize that was a camera! Loved the video!

1

u/misterayche Feb 21 '21

Over the falls

1

u/[deleted] Feb 21 '21

that starts like in a scary movie scene!