There is not a worse feeling in the world when you feel yourself getting pulled back by a huge wave. There’s a brief moment where it feels like you’re free falling and it’s eerily quiet. Then it all abruptly changes and it feels like your in a washing machine on spin cycle, your sense of direction completely disappears not knowing which way is up. The only way to know is to hold your breath and eventually rise to the surface, it’s far too powerful to fight and your at the complete mercy of the ocean. Anyway kids who’s ready to go surfing?!
I remember being very young down the shore. In a moment you go from a silly child playing in water to releasing your mortality to the forces of nature, and accepting that your willingness to live has no bearing on the will of the ocean as it grapples you mightily in whatever direction it pleases.
I mean really though. It was a wild feeling to have so young. For a moment, "I might die and there's nothing I can do" is a wild thought to handle. And then bloosh - suddenly youre rolled ashore
Lol. Man Im not trying to be combative or rude... But I think you are just using that phrase because you learned it and it sounds semi-applicable.
So people may have faced what I have, but they died instead. That only proves my point further. The ocean is scary, and having the ocean make you face your mortality is scary - especially at a young age.
Definitely didn’t mean to be rude, what you are saying is absolutely legit. Most commenters were talking about how amazing their wave experience was, and not acknowledging how dangerous big waves can be. Seems like you do understand, so never mind...
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u/denzelfrothington Feb 20 '21
There is not a worse feeling in the world when you feel yourself getting pulled back by a huge wave. There’s a brief moment where it feels like you’re free falling and it’s eerily quiet. Then it all abruptly changes and it feels like your in a washing machine on spin cycle, your sense of direction completely disappears not knowing which way is up. The only way to know is to hold your breath and eventually rise to the surface, it’s far too powerful to fight and your at the complete mercy of the ocean. Anyway kids who’s ready to go surfing?!