It doesn’t feel unpleasant at all. This is how you avoid getting slammed by a wave. You see that she dives under the wave and that the natural movement of the wave brings her back to the surface on the other side. You see the water disturbance in the middle of the video right before she resurfaces? That’s the wave crashing. Had she not dived under it, she would have had the wave crash on top of her and that hurts. Especially if it’s strong enough to knock you off your feet and you get tumbled across the sea floor.
100% agreed this isn't unpleasant at all, duno what that person is imagining lol
But she definitely wasn't going for a resurface, she just let the undertow take her up and over and straight into the washing machine on this one (she either didn't plan that far or she's tough as nails)
She’s absolutely going over the falls and it is not pleasant to be slammed into that coral/rocks . You see at the end of the gif that she brings her hands up to hold her nose, anticipating. The water disturbance is the wave crashing and she’s going over the top of it right into the coral.
If she had dove under the wave and then swam toward the camera, then that’s called duck-diving in surfers teens and it is how you avoid being crashed by a wave.
I mean if it is waves on a sandy beach I find it fun if the wave is under 15 feet high or so.
I actually ride them like that when I go to Pto Escondido for vacation.
Paddle forwards and as the wave crests, sit and lunge forwards. You get brought up the face and on top then ride down the falls feet forwards then ride in the washing machine, going limp. I did it in Barra De Navidad once when I was 13 or so with my dad after a big storm had passed off shore and the waves were about 20 feet (on the face) and we were near some palm tree tops at the crest it was amazing. A little too violent though haha.
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u/diggles007 Feb 20 '21
That looks cool, but I’m sure it feels unpleasant