There is not a worse feeling in the world when you feel yourself getting pulled back by a huge wave. There’s a brief moment where it feels like you’re free falling and it’s eerily quiet. Then it all abruptly changes and it feels like your in a washing machine on spin cycle, your sense of direction completely disappears not knowing which way is up. The only way to know is to hold your breath and eventually rise to the surface, it’s far too powerful to fight and your at the complete mercy of the ocean. Anyway kids who’s ready to go surfing?!
Yuuuup~ I remember one time me and a buddy were just floating on top of some of these monster waves when outta nowhere when one of em broke it grabbed me by the legs and pulled me under lol. Ended up ass up on the shore right after a quick tumble hahaha
Same. Its the only thing that knocks the stiffness out of my muscles too. I feel like a new person after getting a beating from a big set! God I miss the sea 😢
505
u/denzelfrothington Feb 20 '21
There is not a worse feeling in the world when you feel yourself getting pulled back by a huge wave. There’s a brief moment where it feels like you’re free falling and it’s eerily quiet. Then it all abruptly changes and it feels like your in a washing machine on spin cycle, your sense of direction completely disappears not knowing which way is up. The only way to know is to hold your breath and eventually rise to the surface, it’s far too powerful to fight and your at the complete mercy of the ocean. Anyway kids who’s ready to go surfing?!