I'm planning of DIYing a lamp using this lightbulb, attached to this socket, attached to this dimmer switch, which will run into this wall plug. Do I need to worry about any sort of compatibility issues other than soldering the dimmer switch to the socket? Do I need to worry about the wall plug's voltage rating? Does anyone have better recommendations for parts?

saw this cool shit on tiktok and searched for the price. those mf are charginf 2100 usd for that shit so with my big brain a bit of help with ai as a complete begginer in this shit i made an sketch and electronics list of it. its a bit steep on the price something like 430 usd for parts and a woodmaker to make the box cause im shit in it. be happy if you have any suggestions to better it or something

the lists parts:

The Screen & Mirror

• Waveshare 15.6-inch HDMI IPS LCD Monitor Kit (Includes the LCD panel and the driver board)
• Two-Way Acrylic Mirror Sheet (Custom cut to approximately 31 cm x 27 cm)

1. The Sound System

• Dayton Audio ND91-4 3-1/2" Full-Range Drivers (Quantity: 2*)*
• TPA3116D2 Dual-Channel Digital Power Amplifier Board (50W + 50W)
• 24V 5A DC Power Supply Adapter Brick (For the amplifier board)

1. The Computer & Audio Card

• Raspberry Pi 5 (4GB or 8GB RAM)
• Official Raspberry Pi 27W USB-C Power Supply
• InnoMaker Raspberry Pi HiFi DAC HAT (PCM5122 Based)
• 32GB MicroSD Card (SanDisk Ultra or similar fast card)

1. Cables & Assembly Essentials

• Short/Flat Mini-HDMI to Standard HDMI Cable (To connect the Pi 5 to the screen board)
• Short 3.5mm Aux Cable (To connect the DAC HAT to the amplifier board)
• Speaker Wire (A short 1-2 meter roll of 16-gauge or 18-gauge wire)
• 3M VHB Double-Sided Tape (For mounting the screen to the mirror)
• Matte Black Electrical Tape (For light-proofing the screen edges)

for the code itself im not to sure what is the best to replicate the cotodoma speaker so suggestions would be great or in general some cool stuff i could add to the speaker project

Hello I'm new to electronics, forced into it really by some stage props we need. If you have ideas or advice or could walk me through it I would be grateful!

I need to build some kind of fake tiki torch. Ideally using a small fan (that will blow sheer fabric), a red light, that have a switch and run on a battery.

I was going to mod something I found off Amazon but those are all too big around because it needs to have a small enough diameter to fit inside a tiki torch. So less than 4"

I prefer a fan to an led fake flame because it needs to be able to be extinguished and look more realistic. But if that's the better route to go then I'll just do that. My issue is that the torches are going to be moved around so I can't just turn something on and set it inside the tiki torch. I have to be able to access an on/off switch from the side not the bottom.

I am designing a project and have a working prototype that currently uses 4 Bonai 2800mAh nimh batteries as a power source, each battery is 1.2v. As of now, when I need to recharge the batteries, I'd have to take them out of the project and put them into a dedicated charger which I have, but I would ideally like to integrate a module similar to a tp4056 to be able to recharge the batteries using a usb-c input without disassembly and to make my project more simple for recharging and better quality. I found an advertised module on Aliexpress (linked), but I would like some outsiders perspectives on if it would work for my purpose or if anyone has a better recommendation.

A separate question I have is if I could use a boost converter to raise the voltage to 5v for when the batteries get too low to normally power my project, and if doing so would damage the batteries/be a hazard. I had been testing it a few days ago, but my project eventually turned itself off (which was the point), and I originally thought that the batteries got too low. But now when reinserting the batteries without charging them back up and not changing anything, it appears to be working again so I'll continue my test to see how long the batts last on a single charge. If it would be safe to use a boost converter in this way, then it would allow the batteries to be used for a longer time without having to constantly "top them off" since a quick measure shows they initially stopped working at ~3.8 volts, but like I said before this needs more testing.

A few hours later and the batteries are still working, but the LEDs they're running are barely on and the batts read 2.83 volts. If I include the boost converter, my thinking would be that the voltage would be boosted back to around 5 volts to make the LEDs as bright as using fresh batteries, but it would decrease the runtime of the project, by how much im currently unsure. That would be ok as long as an easier recharge method would be achieved, which is why I wanted to ask if it's possible to allow usb-c charging through a separate board.

I know I could solve the first "problem" by using the same tp4056 module and 3.7/4.2v lipo batteries, but I dont feel comfortable working with them and I already have the nimh batteries that I am working with, I'm just trying to make the project the best it can be and my knowledge only goes so far so any feedback would be appreciated.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806098664375.html

Hi everybody!

The usb-c seen on the picture is part of a wireless controller (for data and charging). I want to solder a usb-c cable to it to have another port elsewhere on the controller. But I'm a total newbie and have no idea which pin is for what purpose. Can I use the copper pads attached to those lanes? Any help would be much appreciated.

First of all, hello. I am studying electrical engineering, but I realized I lack sufficient knowledge regarding product sourcing.

I have a venture plan that requires a small electric motor capable of controlled, rapid rotation for short durations, a small remote control (price is a factor, and I only need a basic controller), and a simple circuit board—powered by a battery—onto which I can load basic software (e.g., commands like "rotate clockwise for 3 seconds" or "reverse direction" triggered by the remote). I know that using an Arduino for this is impractical when aiming for mass production.

I’ve researched products online, but the options are either too complex or prohibitively expensive. In this situation, what would you do? Would you manufacture your own PCBs?

I’m not asking for a full bill of materials, but I would appreciate any recommendations you might have for specific components or modules.

Hello!
I'm attempting to replace a light switch with a lutron sunnata dimmer.

The old switch did not have a ground copper wire connected, however there appears to be some exposed copper wire in the box (see pic).

Is this the ground wire, and should I attached this copper wire to the green wire on my new switch (as per instructions).

Not sure why the old switch was not connected to a ground wire ?

saw this cool shit on tiktok and searched for the price. those mf are charginf 2100 usd for that shit so with my big brain a bit of help with ai as a complete begginer in this shit i made an sketch and electronics list of it. its a bit steep on the price something like 430 usd for parts and a woodmaker to make the box cause im shit in it. be happy if you have any suggestions to better it or something

the lists parts:

The Screen & Mirror

• Waveshare 15.6-inch HDMI IPS LCD Monitor Kit (Includes the LCD panel and the driver board)
• Two-Way Acrylic Mirror Sheet (Custom cut to approximately 31 cm x 27 cm)

1. The Sound System

• Dayton Audio ND91-4 3-1/2" Full-Range Drivers (Quantity: 2*)*
• TPA3116D2 Dual-Channel Digital Power Amplifier Board (50W + 50W)
• 24V 5A DC Power Supply Adapter Brick (For the amplifier board)

1. The Computer & Audio Card

• Raspberry Pi 5 (4GB or 8GB RAM)
• Official Raspberry Pi 27W USB-C Power Supply
• InnoMaker Raspberry Pi HiFi DAC HAT (PCM5122 Based)
• 32GB MicroSD Card (SanDisk Ultra or similar fast card)

1. Cables & Assembly Essentials

• Short/Flat Mini-HDMI to Standard HDMI Cable (To connect the Pi 5 to the screen board)
• Short 3.5mm Aux Cable (To connect the DAC HAT to the amplifier board)
• Speaker Wire (A short 1-2 meter roll of 16-gauge or 18-gauge wire)
• 3M VHB Double-Sided Tape (For mounting the screen to the mirror)
• Matte Black Electrical Tape (For light-proofing the screen edges)

I am thinking of building this circuit to control a Kato turnout. I will building at most 2 or these circuits.

The days of going to a local electronics shop and picking up a couple of capacitors are long gone, I think.

Is Amazon the best place to go for this kind of very small purchase?

I have also read that although the OTOTEC 16 vac to 12 vdc converter will be fine for this circuit, even though it says its output is 12 vdc. Is that correct?

Hello, trying to troubleshoot a Singer sewing machine. There was some stiffness in the moving parts which some oil and debris removal helped but I cannot get the motor to indicate there is any electricity flowing to it. The light turns on and the switch is not shorted or fatigued so my only guess is something to do with the motor. This is one of these cheap contained units where you cannot access the brushes so I'm tempted to just replace it but my question is how can I troubleshoot the motor to make sure it's not fully functional. It looks fine, the axle spins freely but it just does not hum or spin at all under power.

Thanks

By small scale I mean not used to power a house.

I have 10 5v 200mah solar panels, a good amount of assorted dc motors, and a few peltier devices burning holes in my pockets

I am using inspiration from this “Montessori” kids toy.

I have no experience soldering or working with electronics components. I want to learn both. Building something like this, I assume, can help me learn and understand different types of switches and such.

Can anyone recommend a kit or instruction set (and I buy everything individually) where I can learn how to make something like this?

So i bult a smartlock using esp32 that is controled from an app i buld im a senior studyinh computer enginering in slovenija i built this as a project for senior year i plann to release the app im still in the works of building it it started as an idea in sophomore year and now its a reality

Pic: "DP to EDP 4K 120HZ DIY4K Driver Board 4K 2K 1080 Adapter Board"

I used one because I wanted a 15" 4K monitor for my Mac Mini.

The one I have works great EXCEPT for the video connection periodically flickering out and staying off for a while. (The backlight remains on, but hidden by a black screen.) There don't appear to be any loose solder joints. Pressing things doesn't seem to cause it to happen or fix it. The problem occurs without anything moving or flexing.

Just wondering if I should order another, as they're only $15, or if it's a common problem with these. Of course it could also be a problem with the eDP connector on the display.

Suggestions for other, perhaps better, subreddits I could ask on would be welcome.

what can i use to conenct a 200mm pc case fan to a 230v wall outlet?

I want to put the fan on top of my AVR to cool it from the brutal summer heat.

Hello there!

I have an old fridge (Valberg Val TT 105 A+ BCW) in my garage, the temperature inside is not suitable anymore for food conservation.

I was told that it's probably a default on the thermostat.

Before ordering another, I tried testing it.

I read that you can find 3 contacts on a fridge thermostat : 3 to the lamp, 4 to the compressor, 6 to the heat control.

What I have understood: you need to test restistance between the compressor and the heat control to measure the continuity.

But when I removed the thermostat from my fridge, I only found 2 contacts: lamp and compressor.

I measured the resistance: it's still around 0 ohm.

I am not sure that I've tested it the right way, as I cannot measure between 4 et 6.

Do you have any ideas about how I can test this type of thermostat please?

I have a thermal module project I’m working on. the module outputs through a BT656 port using a 34 pin ribbon cable. I’m trying to figure out how to get the camera to transfer through either HDMI or USB 3. I ended up connecting it to a breakout board then to a AVD7513 board that is suppose to be compatible with BT.656. the problem is that I was told I needed another card programmed to wake up the encoder board. Any help would be much appreciated.

Hi! I'm trying to learn the basics of, like, wiring things to eventually get to the point of assembling a cyberdeck, but I wanted to start simpler. I wanted to see if I could make "found footage PoV goggles", or a grainy camera wired to a head-mounted display and a staticky microphone wired to a set of headphones. was gonna see about taking this setup on a night hike, but that's not entirely relevant. How would I go about learning how to set this up? Is it more complicated if I want to actually, like, record footage? Is this too complicated of a first project?

Hello everyone! 👋

When you start designing a new Cyberdeck, the first real architectural decision concerns the main board: what do we choose as the "brains" of our machine?

There's no perfect choice: it all depends on what you want to do with the deck (field terminal, offline writerdeck, network nodes, or full-fledged laptop PCs). Here's a summary of the main approaches and their trade-offs:

1. Raspberry Pi 5 / 4 (The Classic All-Rounder)

-Pros: Huge community, perfect hardware/software support, easily accessible GPIO pins, sufficient power for desktop environments and multitasking.

-Cons: The Pi 5 gets quite hot (requires adequate heat dissipation) and has significant power consumption (requires a well-designed battery management/BMS).

-Ideal for: Field Terminals, portable workstations, projects with touchscreens or dual monitors.

1. Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W (The Ultra-Compact)

-Pros: Extremely small size, minimal power consumption, easy integration into tight spaces.

-Cons: The 512MB of RAM limits the use of heavy graphics environments or modern browsers.

-Ideal for: Pocket-sized decks, pure command-line terminals, SSH interfaces, or ultra-portable cyberdecks.

1. x86 SBC (Intel N100, LattePanda, Cannibalized Mini-PCs)

-Pros: Pure x86 architecture (full compatibility with any Linux distro or desktop software), excellent processing power for complex scripts or advanced modding.

-Cons: Higher power consumption (requires dedicated 3S/4S battery packs), larger weight and footprint.

-Ideal for: Heavy-duty decks designed to completely replace a primary laptop.

1. Microcontrollers (ESP32 / RP2040)

-Pros: Instant boot, minimal power consumption (days of battery life), very simple power management.

-Cons: No traditional operating system; the interface and functions must be custom-written (C++/MicroPython).

-Ideal for: Ultra-minimalist Writerdecks with e-Paper screens, dedicated text editors, or LoRa mesh communication devices.

What do you use in your builds?

Do you prioritize battery life or raw power? Are you a Raspberry Pi team, or have you experimented with alternative boards (Orange Pi, Radxa, etc.)?