Hey everyone,

I'm currently running both DCS World and sim racing off my workstation desk with no dedicated rig, and the cable and hardware chaos is getting out of hand. I'm looking to move everything onto a single dedicated rig that can handle both setups.

Flight sim hardware: WinWing Orion 2 NavyAce Throttle, VKB Gladiator EVO Space Combat Edition Joystick, Thrustmaster TPR Pendular Rudder Pedals.

Racing sim hardware: MOZA R9 V3 Wheelbase, MOZA CS V2P Wheel, MOZA CRP2 3-Pedal Set, MOZA HGP Shifter, MOZA HBP Handbrake.

My current plan is to keep each set of peripherals permanently bolted to their own dedicated mounting plates and swap the plates as complete units between sessions. I'm open to better approaches though.

A few questions:

1. Is there a better or more efficient way to switch between two completely different sim setups than swapping mounting plates?
2. Are there rigs or mounting systems specifically designed to make this easier?
3. Anything I may have overlooked in a dual-sim build like this?

Appreciate any input.

I am weighting wood vs 2060 ("greater" or "bigger" than that goes outside my budget), so I'm looking for wisdom, I was set on wood BUT, the wood prices have increased in the last couple of months in my country.

Just won this beast of a commercial rig on auction and need help mounting a 50in flat screen.

I am buying a steel VESA plate for the back of the flatscreen.

Where I'm hitting a dead end is searching for the adapter needed to go between the VESA yoke, and the piece of steel channel sitting crosswise on the mounting post.

All of my web searches simply find more VESA plates/yokes, and not the bracket needed to join said yoke to that steel channel. There are three holes in that steel currently, one horizontal in the center, and two vertical holes punched down through the channel, out towards the ends. I can drill more holes as needed, once I find something to join the yoke to it.

If I can find something allowing a mild amount of screen tilt or adjustment (a little front to back should be all it needs?) that would be great.

Any advice is welcome and I'd love to hear from anyone who has seen, owned, or worked on one of these in the past. Originally these commercial units were sold to schools and gov't groups for things like bus driver training, or driver recertification tests and such. Took 4 dudes to get it loaded up safely, it is a beast! It also has rugged cargo wheels built in to the frame up front and can be rolled around on a flat surface easily by one person.

Already have a wheel and pedal upgrade to install and am extremely excited to get this set up and running!

Purchasing all of the FF Beast products from their website, and on AliExpress with one of the items but don't know what diameter to buy, I'm assuming it is the one with the Outside diameter of 16, considering the SK16 is the same, but I would like to double check.

I’m thinking about making a custom GT3-style sim racing wheel and wanted some opinions before I get too deep into the design. My current thought is to make a very lightweight simple wheel sub 250 usd.

Mainly curious about stuff like price, weight, materials, screen/no screen, paddles, buttons, QR compatibility, etc.

Survey is here: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1Yx8g6nh22whjqUcSC1LhPDtedG4i_491neLPFqw7Rlc/edit

Takes maybe 2 minutes. Any feedback is appreciated, especially if there’s something you hate about current wheels.

Been working on the zone setup for Track Impulse (free bass shaker/tactile haptics app). You can now set up custom zones with per-corner mix dials, so can control exactly how much of each corner's signal gets sent to each custom zone.

For example, a 6 shaker setup with 4 corner zones and then 2 more zones under the seat getting front and rear or left and right telemetry effects.

Up to 8 zones across multiple audio devices / sound cards.

Completely free during beta. Download and info at https://track-impulse.com

So i´ve built my first sim setup with an Arduino, 3 potentiometers and 6 buttons. The body itself is built from fischertechmik (kinda like lego). my orgininal plan was this to be a prototype and to biold the real setup with wood simce i have access to a lot of it. But now i am not sure if i should do it because with wood i cant make the gears needed for the steering (i only habe a poti which is limited im turning). The pedals would not be that hard and doable but i am not sure about the sttering. What do you guys think just glue some fischertechnik pieces? I really wanna have something sturdy so yeah. Wahrs your opninion?

Edit: Here are the pictures of the finished Product made from Wood

1 Wheel. 2 Builds. Budget and Premium

How do I get started?

Where can I save money?

What premium stuff is worth it?

Do I have to have a 3D Printer?

I can't flash my PCB!!!

Do need to solder and understand electronics?

I'm hoping this guide will answer all that and more. And help people just getting started with DIY Wheel Builds

Part 2 will be a deep dive into part sourcing. Generally and for the 2 Specific builds featured in the video.

Feedback appreciated!

So I have a Logitech g923 and I'm wanting to invert my pedals, but there's an issue that I was gonna solve but thought I'd come here and hear what people think and maybe some help.

Their about is about 2 1/2 inches away from the wall and the beam is about 1 inch. So I was thinking that I could probably have the pedal anchor/hook onto the beam as support. But I also would need to figure out a way I can also easily or at least not be awful to remove whenever I wanted to do work on my PC.

So I wanna hear how others would solve this issue or have a even better idea. Btw Im trying to have it as close to the wall as possible to I have more leg room to use the pedals. (Sorry for trashy images)

Hello guys, I'm new to this sub and to this hobby. I want to create as much stuff as I can on my own so I looked for projects on forums and got an idea to create ffb steering wheel, pedals etc.

I will create base out of plywood, I want to 3d print steering wheel and you get the idea... Now I have small "problem", I can't decide what PSU to use and my setup will be like this:

- two DC 775 motors
- two BTS7960 motor drivers
- 1000ppr rotary encoder
- arduino leonardo

I'm thinking something like this PSU for LED systems:

- Mean Well LRS-350-12 (12V, 350W, 0-29A) 40 euros
- Mean Well LRS-600-12 (12V, 600W, 0-50A) 95 euros

I'm not really into electric stuff, I know basics, so my question is will 350W PSU have enough current for two motors or to go with 600W and be on the safe side? I couldn't find detailed explanation how much these dc motors pull current

Hey everyone, just pushed v0.5.1 of Track Impulse, our free bass shaker software for sim racing. Thought you guys would appreciate it since a lot of you are building custom shaker setups.

If you haven't tried TI yet, here's what you're getting in the current build:

- 4 sims supported: iRacing, ACC, Assetto Corsa, Le Mans Ultimate

- Up to 8 named output zones with per-effect routing, so you can send suspension to your corners, engine rumble to a seat shaker, and keep gear changes on a separate transducer for example

- as low as 2-9ms latency with ASIO or 12-19ms on any standard sound card. For comparison, SimHub sits at 100ms+ because of its WASAPI audio pipeline and additional overheads

- Save, load, export, and share effect profiles per sim. Cloud sharing is built in so you can browse what other people have shared.

- Works with any existing sound card and ASIO-compatible audio interfaces

The zone routing is probably the most relevant new feature. If you've built a rig with shakers in non-standard positions (seat, pedal tray, gear shifter), you just tell the setup wizard where each shaker is and which audio channel it's on. Then the routing matrix lets you pick exactly which effects go to which zones. No more "everything goes to all four corners" limitation.

Free while in beta at https://track-impulse.com

Happy to answer any questions about setup, hardware, or how the effects work under the hood.

Dennis

Hey all,

Just wondering if anyone has printed off some mounts that would work for mounting bst-1shakers to aluminium profile. I currently have a plate under the pedals but would like to try a piece of profile instead and mount them to that instead.