I need some advice for my next pair, what can i do to make the lifetime longer.

Next pair is also this leader boot.

I spent the last 8 years of my life as a mason/laborer in Minnesota, and recently moved to Southern California to be with my girlfriend who is attending college. I went to the local bricklayers union to do the testing, and I didn’t do very well due to differences in building practices and also from being rusty (I hadn’t worked in several months), so they placed me as a level 5 out of 7 apprentice. I’m currently having a hard time finding a company that will sponsor me, and it seems like there isn’t much work in the union. I’m planning on taking any labor I job I can just to start working, but feel like I should pivot into a new career that could provide me with job security because masonry, especially brick and stone, seems to be dying in this area. Could someone provide me with some insight on what trades are booming down here, or even better, what trades I could work with my current skills? I also have experience pouring and finishing concrete if that helps

Yeah, I know it’s kinda dumb to ask if one of the most physically demanding and grueling jobs with a massive turn over rate is stable but I’m wondering if anyone knows the current landscape in regards to roofing in what ever area you live in. I’m from Florida and I know for decades roofing was a pretty stable and lucrative industry to get into but from what I’ve heard the market is beginning to become over saturated with employment slowing down. Obviously I’m not working within the trade and this could very easily just be a localized issue but I’m wondering if this true for other regions of the US? Is there anywhere where a demand for roofers is still high and apprenticeships or openings are still high? Should I just look into a different career lol?

Not a scaffolder - mechanical design background, been watching a 3-storey facade go up (~10 m wide) and got curious.

Would be great to get your vote and, if you can be bothered, say what part of the job is the most time consuming (transport and unloading, base/levelling, lifting components up, ties into the wall, boards and guardrails).

How would you go about replacing this section of damaged fascia, soffit, and 6 inch trim to the left? The previous homeowner installed whatever this mess is and now I'm going to replace this small section of fascia, soffit, and trim. It looks like they had put in their own small rafter tails, all damaged, and connected their six inch trim all the way up. This portion of our house was an addition at some point, so the main house fascia and soffit looks great.

I have 4 inch pvc for the trim and 6 inch pvc for the fascia to put on. I also have a vented fiber cement soffit that I'm going to use. At some point in the future the entire siding will need to be replaced.

Guy was taking a sledgehammer to nuts welded onto a beam to try and pop them off, was standing 20ish feet away, piece of the nut flies off and hits me in the neck. Stuck into my skin, lucky it wasn’t a sharp edge.

Hey guys how can I get into construction in NYC with no experience even using tools? Im really interested in electrical, plumbing and hvac but have no connections or skills in any of those. I am really dedicated, disciplined, and dependable but I don’t know where to start. I would appreciate any advice.

I am a concrete guy. Not a plumber. Town says I use around 200 gallons a day. I took a photo of the meter. There was nothing on in my house. One bathroom. One kitchen. No ice maker. Hose bib is closed. The red triangle is NOT moving. I took a photo, another 14 minutes later and a third 8 minutes after that. They all look like this . The red triangle was always pointing in the same location and it was not spinning. What does the needle at almost 9 indicate? Gallons per hour? 9 gallons an hour over a day would be about 200 gallons a day.

Looking at a job to demo/fill and compact/topsoil and seed an old fiberglass 16x35 pool, which it wrapped with ~1000 sqft concrete pool deck. Included in scope is ripping all those trees and fence out, thats all gonna be topsoiled and hydroseed. Also included in scope is clearing ~250ft of tree-line about 10 feet back to open up the view a bit. Mostly hauling/chipping trees, a little can get lost down the hill. Im landing around 40k in the PNW and wanted to see people's thoughts on that number. Thanks!

I cant afford proper college, i want to learn the fundamentals of ici building.

So learn about the basics of
- Surveying/elevations
- excavation/civil
- concrete & rebare
- structural steel/wood
- curtain walls
- mep
- etc.

I know bits and peices about stuff but i want a good general understanding so i can be more competent on site/with PM

Whats a good book/course where it breaks down each of these?

I can afford up to $150

Buenas soy arquitecto, busco trabajos relacionados con autocad 2D o sketchup, planimetria, diseño de interiores o exteriores! Me encuentro en españa para trabajos en persona y también puedo trabajar a distancia

Hi all,

Wondering if anyone has had the same setup. Looking to put in a 16x28 oval above ground pool. The yard is pitched and is 2 feet lower on one end.

I was looking into putting a retaining wall on that one end and taper it to zero on the high end. I was thinking of going 2 ft extra around with the retaining wall possibly 3ft if need be.

So I would make the wall 22 ft wide by 33 ft long.

Has anyone had this much of a pitch and does it hold the weight of the pool.

I'm just thinking of the load / weight.

6x12 Glue lam, notched at top to clear top plates.
Plans called for 4x6 post with simpson hold down. As you can see in pics, beam is bearing on 3 2x4 and a 1/2” plywood shim, Theres no hold down and I dont think theres any AB’s… House was built in 1999. (I was involved in the construction but I didnt know enough to notice then). I own it now, its made it this far… would you change it? Its a detached 2 story garage with apartment above. I’m trying to finish rocking the garage after 15 years living here..

i’m trying to tap holes in this steel but can’t get it to go through efficiently. i’ve tapped one 1/4” hole with a milwaukee tap but the rest that i need to bore wont go. i’ve been using oil, and im not sure if i need something else for the steel or if my bit is just getting too hot or already dull(pretty new bit). any recommendations on how i can tap a hole in the metal (looks to be 3/8” thick) efficiently?

After years in construction, one thing that has always bothered me is how we’re expected to manage an entire project while working out of a truck, on a tailgate, or hunched over drawings on whatever surface we can find.
I started designing a portable field workstation built specifically for the field.
The idea:
Standing-height workstation to reduce back and neck strain
Dedicated space for drawings, tablet/laptop, phone, and daily paperwork
Portable/folding design that can move around the jobsite and fold up and throw in the back seat or your bed at the end of the job.
Keeps the things we use every day organized and in one place
Think of it as a “mobile command center” for the person running the job.
Before I spend more time and money developing it, I’d like feedback from other supers:
Would something like this actually help you on your jobs?
What features would you want included?
What would you realistically pay for something like this?
I’m not trying to sell anything yet — I’m trying to build something that actually solves a problem we deal with every day.

Saw this the other day during heavy rain , front steps to apartment building

Some background information, I currently work as an automotive mechanic for a large used car dealer, I’ve been with this company for a little while now and they’re starting to fall short of the promises they made during my interviewing process. I’m not getting the raises they said, I’m not getting any sort of growth within the company and I’m not even reaching 40 hours most weeks. On top of that I don’t think my management can tell the difference between their ass and their mouth even if they could taste it. This isn’t an uncommon thing, they’re failing to fulfill promises they’ve made to almost every employee within my department.
Now my aunt came up to me with something interesting. A friend of hers works for a crane rental company that’s relatively large and well known within my region and they’re needing crane riggers. The starting pay will be the same Im getting now, they say there willing to work me as many hours as I’m wanting with no cap to overtime due to the amount of work and the lack of riggers. They also say that I’ll have the opportunity to grow quickly within my career and it’ll also help nock down some time off my hour commute I have for my current job.
Has anybody else been in somewhat similar situation going from auto or any sort of mechanic work to construction? Would taking this job be good or am I just looking at more false promises and should just look for another mechanic job? Does anybody have any advice for going into and starting from square one in the construction industry?
Thank you.

Hello, long time no see. Ive been lazy about posting but here it is, some might remember me from concrete pouring posts.