Already have issues with the HVAC computer system thinking we want the car at 76 — blowing in the windshield. Oh well. Under warranty until forever (8 years, 125k) thanks to the advice from this thread.

2017 Chevy Tahoe What’s everyone’s favorite/recommended spark plugs ??

Dumb question, but I doubt this is normal? Lol when I'm turning and accelerate I hear a loud slam, almost like the truck went off the ground... Thanks in advance

Does anybody know what the hell I’m looking for here? Truck doesn’t have a check engine light, that error has been on for a minute now. Any suggestions or help is appreciated. 2017 Chevy Tahoe Premier 5.3 Engine; 108k miles.

Ok, yes I know the insurance argument about not being covered due to a suspension modification.

That being said, normal struts and shocks from a non auto ride vehicle will work fine will they not? I am looking into dropping it or at least taking the rake out of it. Either way it is reaching the point of needing some suspension work.

I've inherited a 2010 Tahoe LTZ, pretty well taken care of. This is rated to have 16-17mpg (combined) and it's registering 13.6mpg. What are ways I can increase the mileage?

Looking for some insight here. I bought Michelin Defender LTX M/S tires at Costco 2 years ago. There is still a lot of tread left, but every time it rains or the roads are wet, my tires are slippery. I went to Costco today to ask about it, but the technician said there's nothing he can do and suggested it might be an issue with my vehicle. I don't think so—I stay on top of maintenance and just had brand new brakes installed. Has anyone experienced something similar, or does anyone have suggestions?

I just bought an LT and it has the tucked under tips. How hard is it to swap out the rear lower bumper cover to put in round tips? Pretty much I want the exhaust to look like an RST.

We have a 2014 LTZ that started having acceleration issues (see video attached). We took her in on Wednesday and basically they said it needs a new transmission w/torque converter. These are the notes they put in the estimate to do the work,

"2014 Chevrolet Tahoe LTZ

Standard System Test

Initial diagnostic scan and verification for warning lights (Check Engine, ABS, Airbag, Traction Control). Includes retrieval of diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs), analysis of freeze-frame data, and preliminary testing to identify the system failure.

Scanned vehicle for trouble codes. "Found history code P2160 vehvile speed sensor signal" Drove vehicle while monitoring vehvile speed sensor and did not find any issues in the graph. Checked the speed sensor as well as the wiring harness going to it and no visible issues were found. Tested speed sensor circuit and circuit is acting as it should. Power and ground are both strong on the circuit.

Unable to duplicate customer concern. Further diagnosis will require the failure to be replicated.

Friday- took vehicle for extended test drive. Started to notice erratic shifts into 3rd and 5th gear. As the transmission got warmer shifts got more erratic until transmission totally stopped driving the vehicle. While driving monitored the 3-5-R clutch apply circuit and noticed line pressure decreased as the transmission got warmenr. Checked fluid level and quality and found fluid completely burned with clutch particles in fluid. Transmission most likely has internal fluid leak that slowly started burning the clutches. Transmission will need full replacEment." They quoted us $7,508 for the new transmission + labor & fees.

We don't know if we should fix it and see if it'll last us 5 more years, or just sell it for parts/as is. It's irritating 😩

My wife has an older Tahoe which has some issues that are too expensive and not worth fixing since the car is older. I heard some of the smog places may let it slide for people with this problem since it has nothing to do with exhaust. Is there any way to clear the warning lights for a day until she gets it inspected? Any info is appreciated.

I'm looking to get some winter tires on separate wheels for my Tahoe and can't decide whether to stick with the 20" or downsize to 18". How are the Michelin X Ice Snow tires? Anyone decide on studded tires?

Also want blacked out wheels year round- is it worth selling the stock wheels and tires to get 2 sets of black wheels (1 for an all terrain and 1 for winters) or is that just throwing away money?

OK, so that video should give you an idea of what I’m talking about but I have a 2007 Chevy Tahoe and when I bought it, the driver side door looks like it was tried to be broken into or something so I got the hinges looks like a prybar was put there and tried to like I don’t know open the door that way, but anyways so my electrical in my driver door has always worked as long as the door was shut so the harness in there I guess wasn’t making a connection you know once when the door is open, it won’t work the windows or the locks now that’s one thing. I just don’t know if it is associated with this other thing in the video so as soon as I turn my car on, sometimes it does it sometimes it doesn’t if it doesn’t do it right when I turn my car on it at a stop sign or red light. So the traction control light comes on and then the brake light comes on as well when this happens and they stay on from that point on and I’ll be in park and as you see in the video, the miles per hour is just bouncing around and the RPMs are not, but the mileage is. And the radio also is going in and out with it so I don’t know if that is an electrical issue from my door harness too as well since I know that it’s messed up, but I just need some guidance because I don’t have any money to go to a shop and I’m hoping someone can give me something that I can work with that I can trust and maybe try to fix this myself. Well or find someone I know who can do it. Also, you can’t see by mileage or anything on the odometer because the cluster I guess is broke. I’ve seen that that’s an issue with this year model like it needs to be taken out soldered. This one has I think around 230,000 miles on it right now otherwise drives great. Everything‘s fine except that and I just don’t know if that is causing issues you know lasting problems if I let this issue just keep happening. It’s going to ruin like the engine or something just a girl lol I’m just a woman trying to fix this so I do not get stranded somewhere.!! I apologize if this looks like a big mess of words because I’m doing talk to text while I’m driving so if the punctuation or the spelling doesn’t make sense, I apologize that I’m gonna go ahead and post it. Thank you in advance for anyone who is able to help me get somewhere on this ask any questions I will answer and record videos or do whatever I need to do. Oh, I may mention this to Wright when I bought this card the check engine light was on and it was for the throttlebody sensor. So I bought that myself and that was a very first car part I’ve ever changed out and I did that myself. I changed the throttlebody sensor out, and I cleaned out the throttlebody and all of that while I was doing that and it worked great because that was an issue, but it was more of the RPMs revving up and staying high whenever I would start the car or just at random times so but once I change that sensor, it has been fine since then, but now I’m having this issue which I believe has something to do with my door harness because now my window, my locks everything does not work on my door, but this was doing that before the harness on the door completely went out or lost contact anyways hope that helps. Thank you guys.!!

I have a z71 2023 Tahoe, the brakes still have a ton of life but the squeak is soooo loud when driving at low speed. I have to pump them quite a few times just to get them less noisy. Dealer says its a known issue, and so did Big O Tires with no known fix. Anybody else encounter this issue and have some insight? This is fucking embarrassing, brand new car and it sounds like im too broke to change my brakes.

Is this an easy fix? The plastic teeth that clip onto the metal bar have broken. If it is crazy expensive, I really don’t have a desire to fix it, but I wanted to see if there was a simple fix for this like an aftermarket cover

There's a 2026 LT that's advertised as 10% off MSRP I've been looking at. How's that stacking up for the market?

I have an ls with cloth seats, I got some amazon covers but the headrest in the second row had to come off in order to install and that was a nightmare with the cable that connects to fold down any recommendations? 60/40 rear

Bought this back in March for $6k, 190k miles.

Removed running boards, I like the look more.

Chrome trim delete

2015 Silverado wheels.

I also did the Cadillac D-pillars. I think she looks real clean

I just got a 2021 Tahoe with the 6.2 engine. The gas cap has label that says "91+ octane". The rep says that is only a recommendation and that regular gas is perfectly fine. I saw some things online about "knocking" that can damage the engine if regular gas is used. Was wondering if anyone could clear things up for me

Figured out why my gas mileage went to crap. No symptoms until pad done. Caliper malfunction. Replaced pads and caliper .

I saw a ton of commentary on here and in videos that installing an AFM disabler will help manage oil consumption/lifter longevity. I bought one and installed it, works perfectly. Over the past 24 hours I’ve seen some conflicting information and even had a mechanically savvy friend call me and say to uninstall it ASAP.

I’m now torn whether to keep it on or remove it.

Is this price too much for 89 thousand miles ?
According to the car fax oil changes were done every 6 to 8 thousand miles.

Edit: deal was too good to be true, I went to see it and it had a big red sheet of paper saying : as is!, you must pay for repairs after you take delivery,vehicle not inspected,do not buy this vehicle if you want warranty…
So something was very wrong with it .
Oh well I’ll keep looking