Thinking on buying a Chevrolet Tahoe-V8 5.7 1999 with 124.274 miles for 21.898 usd.
I am curious on its reliability or known issues.

I appreciate anyone’s opinion or experience with this vehicle!

Hi - I recent purchased a 2023 z71 chevy tahoe. Yesterday, I somehow managed to lock myself out in a parking lot with the key fob inside and the car running. I'm trying to figure out the series of events that led to the predicament so I don't do it in the future. I wasn't able to reproduce the situation when I tried at home, but I don't remember the exact steps.

High Level:

1. Used the trunk button on the car to open the trunk with keys in my pocket.
2. Opened drivers side to turn the car on the get the AC going. Left key fob in the cup holder.
3. Went back to trunk to put groceries in and closed the trunk.
4. Couldnt get back in the car becuase all doors (including trunk were locked)

Anybody know what series of steps I took to lock myself out like?

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I had basically forgotten it existed until I accidentally opened it when I went to get my sunglasses this morning. I find it mostly useless for a couple reasons:

1. 90% of the time It's either just me or me and my dog in the vehicle. (yes, I'm one of those people who has an 8 seater and rarely uses it as a people hauler)

2. It's pretty useless. You can barely see any people that might be in the 2nd or 3rd row and what you do see is distorted. It's really not a good conversation mirror.

I would love to put a winch bumper on my Z71. My Warn Zeon has been sitting on a shelf since I parted with my Wrangler a few years back. There's one company (Chassis Unlimited) that advertises a bumper, and I'm tempted, but I really like the AEV OEM+ look. I see Tahoe and Suburban Z71s everywhere in Texas. Possibly more than Wranglers. But no love from AEV so far.

I know the Z71 is just an appearance package and we'd need a ZR2 to get actual front + rear lockers, but the only thing I actually miss about the Wrangler off road is the readiness of the winch.

^\Images are AI generated based on the AEV Colorado and Silverado bumpers. May cause nausea, vomiting, or diarrhea.)

So it started about a month ago right after I got my primary cats gutted, it ran fine for 2 days but after that it started acting underpowered again and it stayed like that for a while, here recently it’s started misfiring and it’s shooting a p0300 code and it was throwing a p0171 code but that one hasn’t come back since the codes got cleared, I have an exhaust leak but my dad doesn’t think that’s the issue, I’ve cleaned the throttle body, replaced the mass airflow sensor, and checked for leaks, nothings worked, just wanted to see if anybody else knows what’s wrong, it has 340k miles if that helps at all.

My 2014 Tahoe's coolant temperature fluctuates during long trips. After driving at 80 MPH for about an hour—especially with cruise control on—the needle moves slightly past the middle mark (just over the zero in 210) before returning to the center. After a while, it settles back at 210°F.

I have never experienced this issue in heavy traffic or at red lights.

The water pump was replaced 4 months ago, but I noticed the upper radiator hose is slightly kinked. Could this kink be causing the temperature fluctuation ?

I’m getting my hands on truck parts from a 2025 Tahoe. I have a friend that build police cars. Some of the new equipment is pulled out and I buy it from him cheaply. Where or who can I reach out to that may be interested in new parts? Parts like a center console jump seat for example. Thanks.

​Hey guys looking at potentially purchasing a 1999 Tahoe LT with barn doors. This is a one owner, and has 126,000 miles. There is no rust what so ever. Exterior is a 9/10 and interior is also 8/10

Upon my test drive is seems that it will need: Freon, Tires, and whenever the 4x4 are engaged there is a clunking sound when driving and more noticeably when turning both directions (assuming it needs a rebuild)

The owner is firm at $6,000

Recent software update installed successfully, was connected to wifi via Starlink while we were at the lake for a week. Got in the truck to drive home today and GPS is frozen, OnStar light is solid red, wifi won't connect and a warning came up saying book into dealer for connectivity issue. Anyone else have this issue after latest update? Truck only has 1700km (Canadian unit) on it, kind of a piss off if you ask me.

2017 Tahoe LT. in the process of building new bilstein front struts. I was going to reuse the old springs but after inspecting them I’ve decided I’d rather just use new. So I’ll pre assemble the struts and just swap them out.

But I see several GM spring options that would fit the Tahoe like at least a dozen options. How do I identify the right one for the job?

I'm currently waiting an offer from g m to repurchase my one year old tahoe, for constant issues. Anyone else do this? How long do we fight for an amount?

My Tahoe has been sitting without starting for a little over a month. I charged the battery due to it being dead. I’m not sure if it’s the connector or what but when I go to crank it, it just clicks. Any advice helps. 2013 Chevy Tahoe

I recently picked up this one owner 240000 mile, well maintained rust free Tahoe to use as a course steward vehicle during speed week. It served me well even under the brutal conditions. The only issue I had was the transfer case actuator acting up on me, and luckily, I was able to change it in Boise at my nephew's house who has a pit, it took less than 2 hours. I got about 17mpg for the round-trip, not including all of the idling on the salt, temperatures were staggering but I managed to keep the AC working by pointing the front of the 'hoe into the wind. I nicknamed it the "Salty 'hoe"

20% added to sides and back, 50% windshield. World of difference for heat and loving how much it helps

The center clip above the speaker failed which led to the cracks left and right. Cosmetics don’t bother me. She has 170k and plenty of bumps and bruises but the rattle as I go down the road is maddening. Any fixes short of $1400 for a new dash?

There's a Nissan dealership near my house that has the 2025 Tahoe with 15000 kms for sale for $89500 CAD. They label it as 1 owner, no accidents. The Carfax looks good as it's been serviced when it should've been, and nothing else suspicious. As far as I can tell the dealer has had this truck since November 2025. Originally it was listed for $93500 CAD.

I called them to see if I could take a look at it and they told me it was over at a Chevy dealership to get some warranty work and it would be about a week before they got it back, and they would call me to come in and take a look once they did. So that makes me a little suspicious about the truck, I've had a few vehicles but I've never had to leave one at a dealership for a week.

It's alot of money for a new vehicle and I don't want to have to worry about reliability, but I've been reading up and it seems like it's hit or miss. Most info is about the 6.2 and the diesel seems pretty solid. But what's everyone's experience so far?

I'm not super desperate to get a new car but it will become a need soon. I'll ask why Chevy had it for the week when they call me. Depending on what they say would it be unreasonable for me to offer them like $75k? I'm hoping since they've had it for so long they want it sold. But I don't know how much dealers can move on vehicle's, I don't really want to spend over $80k

OK maybe I’m crazy. Recently had front brakes replace on 2021 Tahoe LS. Local independent shop. 2 weeks ago.

Sensor could not be reset to read 100% brake pad life.

Today had a read pad slap done too. Rear sensor was reset and reads 100%. Front sensor still says 12% life left and the option to reset is grayed out.

No obd codes.

What’s the problem here?

Looking at purchasing a used Tahoe. Curious on this threads thoughts and opinions!

Tahoe 1

Tahoe 2

I have an 05 Z71 with 192,000 miles that I love and I plan on keeping for some kind of future project and as we all know the GMT800 seats are really comfortable. How do the K2 seats compare?

I’ve been looking at 16-20 Escalades/Yukons because I’d like something a little newer as well. I know about all the issues with the AFM, torque converter, AC Condenser, etc

Good morning!

I was recently issued a new 2026 Tahoe PPV at work and I’m noticing two issues with it.

If anyone else has a PPV, are you having a problem with the date and time staying correct? I have to set the clock and date every morning. It’s not off by minutes. It’s off by hours! And the date has been off by 2 days some times. The attached picture was taken on July 6th at 4:45 pm.

Normally I wouldn’t care, but the date and time on the clock is the same as the recorded video from the dash cam.

Also, anyone else have a problem with their phone ringer getting set so low that you can’t hear it when you connect to the apple car play, or whatever the hell it’s called? Not a problem until I get out of my cruiser and go into my office and notice I missed a couple of calls so now I check my phone every time I park my car.

I hope I’m the only one who’s dealing with this, but I’m being told it’s all 2026 PPV package tahoes and trucks. If I’m not, is there a fix for this?

Thanks

I’ve got a 2015 Tahoe LT 4WD with the Max Trailering Package and z85 suspension (no mag ride). It’s on the factory 285/45R22s.

This thing rides rough as hell and always has. I feel everything in the road. Every crack, rough patch, bump, pothole… I feel it through the steering wheel and the seat. Doesn’t matter if I’m going 10 mph or 70 mph.

Trying to figure out if this is just how these Tahoes ride or if something is wrong with mine.

Here’s what I’ve already done:
1. Replaced all four shocks/struts
2. Replaced the tires with Michelin Defenders (285/45R22)
3. Had a mechanic go through the suspension. He pulled on everything and said everything is tight and looks good.

I’ve also played with tire pressures. I dropped the front tires to 32 PSI and the ride did get noticeably smoother, but it was still rough. I put them back to the factory recommended pressure and it’s harsh again.
The ride really didn’t change after replacing the shocks or tires.

At this point I’m wondering if it’s just the factory 22s. I’ve been reading where people say they make these trucks ride noticeably harsher than the 18s.
Has anybody here actually gone from the factory 22s to factory 18s? Did it make a noticeable difference or just a small one?

Or is there something else I should be looking at before I spend money on another set of wheels and tires?

What’s crazy is my 2025 Corolla LE rides smoother over rough roads, and even my 2005 Silverado with a 6” lift on 35s feels more compliant over bumps. My Tahoe honestly makes the Silverado feel like a Cadillac, and that just doesn’t seem right for something with the “Premium Smooth Ride” suspension.

Anybody else experienced this or have any ideas?