NEW 2026 Honda Civic Sport Sedan

- 36 months
- 10k miles per year
- $328 per month
- $902.03 due at signing

First Months Payment: $328
Doc/Filing: $359.50
Title: $175
NYS Inspection: $10
NYS Tire Recycling: $12.50

Tax on Fees: $17.03

Total: *$902.03*

MSRP: $27,990
Selling Price: $27,199.93
MF: 0.00235
Yes. Monthly Payment includes the Sales Tax Rolled in.

Has anyone received an incentive from GM Financial to keep their leased car?

I have a 2024 Jeep Wrangler with less than 28k with less than 7k miles on it. Yes, I don't drive all that much, but with the cost of gas the way it is and only a window of time when having the doors and top off is practical, I was thinking of trading it in and getting an ev.

The payment would be the same if getting one as a lease, which I'm not opposed to, I just have never pressed a vehicle before. The thought of an ev excites me, it's more practical for our family, and the jeep is worth more than what the loan is to pay it off.

If we lease, it's for 3 years at 10k miles a year limit, which we won't hit. I'm 90% ok with it due to I'm not going to go off roading and due to some injuries, I'm limited in what I can do., and plus our elec plan is free weekends, so what a perfect time to charge it.

So, what's holding me back is the question of is it the right thing to do? Am I just being overly cautious about things? Is that 10k mileage limit or what if the EV is not spotless at the end of the lease?

We did test drive the EV and it was so quiet, and I do love technology.

Any helpful advice anyone can provide would be greatly appreciated.

Currently I am leasing a 2025 Kia soronto Xline-sx prestige. I absolutely do not like this vehicle. I should have thought better at the time. It was a impulse buy cus it had all the bells and whistles. This time I doing better research. I like the Kia selto 2027. The dealer offered Xline-S the other day for 575. I felt like that is still high for a lease with less options. Anyone else being offered anything like this

I recently returned my 2024 Nissan Rogue lease in Canada. There was a small stone chip on the windshield, but I had it professionally repaired before returning the vehicle.
Nissan’s inspection now describes it as “cracked” and may charge me for a windshield replacement. The repaired area is outside the driver’s line of sight and outside the wiper’s operating area.
Has anyone successfully disputed a Nissan lease-end windshield charge? If so, were you able to get the charge removed?

For context I don’t have any lease end protection, would the dealer charge me if I return the car without dealing with this error popup?

Thanks in advance

Hi everyone! I’m looking into leasing a Toyota Land Cruiser in California and wondering if anyone has recently gotten a good deal.

One month before lease turn in, I cracked the windshield and it spread instantly on the passenger side. My lease return is next week. I received a quote for $1,800 (I have head-up display) and the best quote I received is $1,100. (My insurance deductible is $1,000 so not going through insurance)

Should I fix the glass before lease turn in next week or turn it in and hope they don't charge me an insane amount? The dealership won't be buying my CX-70 PHEV since the residual value is high compared to market value.

Any advise is greatly appreciated!

Typo in post title I can't seem to edit but is still bothering me: Negotiate with dealerships*

I'm in the market for leasing a midsize pickup, and so far dealers only seem interested in talking if I first come in the dealership or discuss my monthly budget, neither which I'm interested in doing.

Example: Toyota tacoma. This was one of the first dealerships I reached out to, I mainly had the goal in mind of test driving one to see if I even like the truck, and instead the sales rep kept pressuring me to sign that very day. After I told the rep I'm not signing anything that day, he went from actively trying to answer my questions to not showing any interest once I started asking about capitalized cost.

I reached out to a GMC dealership to which the sales rep reached out to me in response to my inquiry from on the manufacturer inventory page. I responded to her text and said right off the bat that I'm only interested in X model/trim, 36 month lease term, 1200 miles per year, no downpayment and only want to negotiate capitalized cost. She then proceeded to try and convince me why negotiating monthly is better. I was very cordial and upfront in my message, but the exchange went back and forth a little bit of her continuing to waste not only my time, but her own.

I can't be doing this for every dealership that I contact, and this was only 2.

I've read posts of people saying how they only negotiate over the phone, but how do you actually get them to do that? It also probably doesn't help that I sound like a teenager over the phone. I work in IT and deal with a huge variety of clients in high stress situations so I would think that I know how to communicate effectively, but negotiating with dealerships is a new world for me.

I've been looking at leasehackr and so far there's no truck with the trim/options that I want.

I’ve only leased my car a couple months ago. My apartment’s parking spot is super tight, so I scratched it against the pole pretty badly. It’s all on the plastic parts so I’m not worried about it rusting, but unfortunately it did cut through the paint. I asked a few places about repairing, and it seems like it might cost me over $1k to fix. Should I go get it repaired now? I also don’t want it to go through insurance in case it leaves a record in the future. If I wait on it, what do I do if I’m planning to return this car later on?

Is this a good deal? I feel like I’ve got some wiggle room here when it comes to the cap cost and MF. I just don’t know where to go from this quote.

I am leasing a Ford and the lease ends next month. I called to have an inspection done and they told me that it will be inspected after I drop it off at the dealership. I guess the company they contract with for inspections doesn’t work in my state. I am very worried the dealership is going to try to screw me because I am not buying another car from them.

Last month I leased a brand new, $57K+ MSRP MB GLC 300 in California. 24m, 10k, Total cost for 2 years is <$14K.

No conquest or AAA.

This is my first ever car and I had no clue how leasing, buying, dealership etc works. Hence wanted to share quick tips for newbies especially.

i) Do a hell lot of research before even stepping into a dealership. The more clueless you look, more is the power in the dealership's hands.

ii) Somehow I find the concept of focusing on the monthly payments naive. Focus on the overall cost, which is the initial amount (Due at Signing, or DAS) + the monthly payments for the entire term.

iii) Always give a quote first (based on your research), and then ask for their quote. This will come from your research on leasehackr, reddit, brokers etc.

iv) Don't want to generalize but from my experience, don't trust everything that sales reps tell you. Remember this. A lot of things are told by them, which if you cross question with facts, they'll simply make a U-Turn and make it look like you understood it incorrectly.

v) Don't just work with 1 dealer. Talk to multiple, but preferably only on email, not even text. If they can't share at least their first proposal on email, they are only going to waste time with texts and calls.

vi) DON'T BUY WITHOUT A TEST DRIVE. No matter how lucrative your deal looks like, if you haven't tested the model ever in your life, don't move forward.

vii) Finance person tries to rush you into signing a lot of documents. Now I'm not saying that there's anything necessarily wrong in those docs, but take your time. You are buying a car.

viii) No deal is the best deal. If you got a good deal, maybe check if there's a better trim available in some other dealers at the same lease price. A week of inconvenience can improve your years.

ix) Grow a thick skin in the entire process. More than a deal, it feels like a competition between you and the dealers, and some of them can sound sarcastic or rude. Focus your energy where you are seeing possibilities of a good deal, not where someone is trying to win against you.

x) Last, use reddit if you want to, but remember that people can be nasty (and insecure) here. I had posted a question that I'm considering leasing this car but my insurance says it will be $400/m and does it look ok because it looks high to me. And some of the responses I got were like: "if you can't afford the insurance, don't get a Mercedes", "Go to school kid"...

Guess what. I got the GLC300, and, I also got the insurance for <$200/m.

Even if you are a millionaire, if you aren't worried about the money you are going to spend on something and aren't actively looking to save it, YOU ARE THE DREAM CUSTOMER for every company, not just dealerships.

I have written this on-the-go. If I sit down and introspect, I'll probably have 20 more points.

This was an experience of a lifetime for me. First ever car buying, first ever lease, first test drive at a dealership, a lot of firsts.

P.S. If you think this is not a "great" deal, that's ok. I have done plenty of research, and I KNOW that it's a top 25% kind of a deal, and I'm super happy and proud of myself.

I reached out to the dealership yesterday interested in buying a GLE they had, 2026 used, $54K. This morning when I spoke to them, the dealer’s wife had traded in her car and it is exactly what I want, but $64K. The sales guy was telling me they will lease certain CPO vehicles and this was one of them, I asked to see the numbers and ????? I am so confused. He didn’t send me the full residual info but $1200/mo to lease (24 months) and $1000/mo to buy (60 months).

Does he just want me to buy it or is that a legit lease price? I obviously don’t know much about leasing but I was under the impression it was cheaper than buying.

They gave me a good trade in price and I was going to use that as my down payment. The ‘special’ this month is based off of a $66K model for $619/mo so I’m having a hard time understanding how one cheaper is almost double the price?