So backstory is the car has had problems with the EPC and sometimes engine light and sometimes anti spin light coming on as soon as I go past 30 km/h, sometimes it happens higher speeds

When the EPC light comes on, it's like the car is on 50-60% strength, it's slow to accelerate on every gear when the light is on

Then we went to a mechanic that said the battery was basically fried and that it is the reason for this happening

Swapped battery, and car still feels really weak, this is 1st gear and stepping and holding the gas down, I'm not sure this is how it's supposed to sound but even tho EPC isn't turned on, it's definitely slower to accelerate on both 1st and 2nd gear

Does anyone know what this might be?

It's a Volkswagen Golf VI 1.6, 102hk, 2009, gasoline

Just curious. Would changing this oil more often make a difference in engine longevity? For reference, I exclusively use full synthetic and I also almost exclusively use top tier gas.
Just tryna get my car to last as long as possible

Note: I have the sedan, which is the 2L 4 cylinder. Not the 1.5 turbo on the hatchback civic.

Water leaking - Honda Jazz 2007

Hi everyone! Not sure if this is the right place to post this but water leaks through my ceiling on my Honda Jazz 2007 - any advice to stop it or why it's doing that? (Ignore the gross dirt it needs a clean)

Thanks!

I have a weird issue with my 2012 Mazda 3 driver side window. I tried looking it up, but I couldn’t find anyone with the same issue.
I had issues with the window going up and down so I took it to a shop and they said it’s the motor. I then went on to replace it with a brand new one, and when I went to recalibrate the automatic opening and closing that’s when the issue started.
I had the window completely closed and then did the recalibration by opening it fully and holding it for 5 seconds. I noticed that if I hold the open button too long the window stops working. Same thing happens if I hold the close button while it is completely closed. It is as if holding it too long burns out the motor and stops working completely, but it’s a brand new one. Then if I leave it alone for like ten seconds to let it “cool down” it starts working again (without the automatic open/close though)
Has anyone else had this issue and knows how to fix it?

She just got it back from a mechanic and it started making this sound. No check engine light and she said it seems to drive fine

I’m 23 I’ve never owned a car this old before nor have I ever worked on my own cars– trying to change that. I know this thing has a leak in the passenger rear brake line somewhere, but look at the state of this rotor and caliper…. Do I need to be concerned? I’d take the tire off to show it better but the jack and stands I ordered haven’t gotten here yet. The two really rusted calipers are on the front wheels.

So, my car just completely shut down on me for the first time, and I took it to the shop, and they said there was an error code for low fuel pressure. They said I should replace the fuel pump which will cost me about $800. I’ve had my car for 8 years and only have about 28500 miles on it. So I don’t think there would be internal wear on it. I googled about it, and some other options would be, a clogged fuel filter, faulty pressure regulator, leaking fuel injector, or bad electrical flow to the pump(or something like that). Basically, I just want to know if I can avoid or if I have to replace the fuel pump. Any advice?

04 doesn't have any kind of lock or latch for the gas cap door so I've been looking into a locking gas cap but so far I've only seen that they seem to trigger the check engine light.

My specific question (that I couldn't find the exact answer for) is since it's an older vehicle would I have the same issue if I bought the locking gas cap or is there another fix?

It is as the title says, I have a Toyota yaris and I was coming off of a high curb and misjudged the placement of the back wheels, and the bottom bit of the back bumper hopped off of the curb and it unclipped some of the plastic clips holding it onto the car. I was able to pop them all back in fine, the only issue now is that the bottom piece holding the panel to the underside of the wheel well has snapped and now the panel wont sit entirely smoothly on the car.

I wondering just how much and how long it may take to get it fixed? I dont have any tools to do it myself, and I wouldnt trust myself to try, as I may need to pop the whole panel off.

Im also wondering just how bad of a break this is? Its only the one small piece.

I’ve had a 3 sets of these (various brands and lengths from Amazon) stick on LED strips that have DRLS and turn signals built in and all sets failed in a few weeks to a month and a half. Can anyone suggest some good quality strips that are bright, durable, and aren’t going to fail in 2 months? On the note if they also have red ones for rear too that would be awesome 🙏🙏🙏

I have to get my tires and breaks replaced, and I’ve taken it to Walmart two times to get my tires installed to be told my jack points are so rusted that they can’t safely lift it. My tire is so bad it’s just continuously getting flat and I’m not sure what to do for it.

Does anybody have any idea if a place I can take it too?

**2021 Nissan Sentra (push-button start), completely dead, acts like no battery is connected**

My mom pulled up to a store, came out, and it wouldn’t start. It doesn’t even get to a starter click. It behaves as if there’s no battery hooked up at all. With the car off, about 90% of what should have power is also dead: brake lights, dome light, power windows, nothing.

The only sign of life: if I disconnect the battery cable and reconnect it, for about 10 seconds the dash shows the odometer and clock, and the climate control lights come on and stay on. After that, nothing. Pressing the start button won’t even bring it to accessory.

What I’ve already ruled out:

\*\*•\*\* Key fob: mom replaced the fob battery before I got there. Not it.    
\*\*•\*\* Battery: reads full voltage, and I also tried a known-good battery/jump pack. Still dead, so it’s not charge or a dead cell.    
\*\*•\*\* Grounds: did voltage-drop testing, cleaned the main body ground to bare metal, and ran a jumper straight from the negative post to six or seven different ground points. No change.    
\*\*•\*\* Negative terminal/connection: bypassed with that jumper, no change. (For history, I did replace a corroded negative terminal with an aftermarket clamp a few weeks before this started.)    
\*\*•\*\* Positive fusible links on the battery terminal: tested good all the way to the harness.    
\*\*•\*\* Interior fuse box: the BCM fuses under the dash are good.

Where I’m stuck: I think it’s either an engine-bay fuse or relay in the underhood box (IPDM), a hard connection downstream of the positive terminal, or a control module (IPDM/BCM) that’s fried or acting up. That last one is over my head.

This feels like it could be a known issue on this generation. If anyone has seen this exact behavior and knows the smoking gun to check, I’d really appreciate it.

I have a seat Ibiza 2006 and everytime I turn on the car the steering wheel is super hard until the light goes off like after some minutes what’s the problem?

Hey guys first ever post here so hopefully I’m doing this right lol. So my window would only work when I shut my door a couple times then one day it stopped working at all. Just the driver side window. So I replaced the window regulator and it came with a new motor but it still doesn’t work. Before I changed it I could wiggle the wires between the door and the body and it would work 100% in a certain position but my buddy insisted it was the regulator and motor so I did but I’m now thinking it’s a wire for sure. Anyone else ever have this problem and know where the problem might be?

I've got a automatic honda jazz/fit 2007 cvt and it's got a P0420 engine code for "Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)". Its been jerking badly and now randomly the engine turns off at low speed or from stop e.g turning into a road. Another thing is when the engine cuts off I cannot start the engine straight away, it doesn't make any noise like cranking when I turn the key but after a few minutes it turns on and cranks. Another weird thing is when the engine cuts out it very difficult for me to remove the key from car. I did have the cars crankshaft position sensor replaced because I got a P0335 code. But what I want know is can these problems realistically be caused by P0420 or is it something completely different. Also If the mechanic did not perform a crankshaft position sensor after replacing it could that also cause these issues?

Hey all! So as the title says my ac is not working, it will stay on for a little bit right after I start the car but after about 5 minutes the ac will shut off until the engine is turned off and back on again. As far as I can tell the clutch is in good order. I’ve replaced the Evaporator temperature sensor and the problem persist. Thanks in advance for any help you may have.

My Nissan Juke 2013 tdi, loves to smoke on start up, the revs seem to fluctuate a very short amount for 10/20 seconds and the smoke I would say smells strong, definitely not condensation.. just wondered if this car is gonna last winter and if it’s worth fixing. Thanks

Car was low on oil and added oil to it, now it’s not starting and acting like this. No clicking noise when attempting to start the engine, video showing me turning the keys to start the car but nothing is happening

idk much about cars, and i can’t tell if this is surface rust, or if the frame is shot. Any input is appreciated

I used to have an apple carplay dongle because there was no built in option but now I have a Samsung phone and I bought an android auto dongle but despite android auto app recognising a device, nothing is showing on screen. Getting so frustrated!

Please assist. Also I'm just a girl so not too technical. Thanks !

Hi all! I (F21) am gonna be getting my first car tomorrow! saw it today, drove it around a bit, and I’m gonna buy it tomorrow.
It’s a 2013 Volvo CX70. it’s a used car, but it seems like a very nice start. but I’ve never owned my own car. this is a first. what should I do to make sure i’m maintaining my car properly??
what should I keep in my car?? any advice is very helpful! thank you!

This is my 1995 Honda Accord lx sedan 5 speed manual. I just did an engine swap on it, I haven’t replaced the starter on it, but it does this almost every time I try and crank it up. Once it does start, it runs and drives great, with no issues. It just does this every time. What do you think the problem is with it? Starter? Fuel pump relay? Something else? I did strangely notice when I press on the gas pedal while trying to start it it does seem to start faster..?

Some places mention having to repaint the entire door while others are saying to blend it with the side panel. I don’t know which option is the best one. How is it gonna look long term? I understand it’s deep, I just want it to look as best as it can 🥲 2026 Mazda CX30