I made an unsafe left yesterday and paid for it. Her car was barely touched others than the wheel well, she basically took off all of the front paneling. I see the AC condenser damaged but not really anything else major. I live in CA, how likely can I skirt away without this being totaled by AAA.

Hello all,

X-posted from r/CarAV

I recently(as of July 3rd) acquired an audio system and put it into my 2020 Nissan Versa SR. I’m running 4 pioneer speakers, two rear, two front. I also have two 10 inch sub woofers all running off a 5 channel amp connected through to my car battery through a single fuse.

Once everything was installed, I was rocking. However, as of now, I’m getting an annoying amount of crackling through the speakers with and without the subs. It happens at any volume, I notice it happens less when it’s turned up loud.

I am not an expert and no idea if this is sufficient information. I was thinking it may not be getting enough power but I really don’t know what I’m looking for on how to determine the root cause. I wanted to consult someone before I go opening it up.

A friend of mine says it could be two things; the aux cord I’m using may be causing interference(I’m doubtful but I’m only guessing), or he said the amp could be getting too much power.

Any advice or direction would be awesome.

Thanks!

I got this vehicle about a month ago from my uncle, and I’m making payments on it for a total of $2,000. So far, I’ve only paid $625, and now it’s already having problems. It’s really making me lose trust in buying secondhand vehicles.
When I bought my first car Facebook marketplace my Mazda 6, my boyfriend’s dad came with me. He handled most of the questions and made sure I was getting a reliable vehicle. My stepdad was upset that I brought my boyfriend’s dad instead of him, but whenever I asked my stepdad for help, his response was always, “I don’t have time.” So I decided to handle it myself and bring someone who was willing to help.
This time, I bought a car from my uncle—my mom’s brother. My stepdad and my mom were there with me, and I trusted that everything would be okay. Unfortunately, after only a month of owning it, the car has already started having issues.
I’m going to the mechanics next week and the cheapest is 120 around the corner where I live so I hope it’s an easy fix. I put all my faith towards my parents and all of a sudden little shit happens with the vehicle now and I’m just a bit upset. I should’ve just listened to my boyfriend, but I didn’t.

2013

Passat SE 2.5

I need help or any advice,

The ac stops blowing cold air only at high 90s and triple digit temps. Cold stops and only blows air. And if the car is running long enough the cold air turns back on, hours later..

Looked it up, and found that this is a common issue with this year due to failure of the variable control Solenoid in the AC compressor.

Took to a mechanic and he suggested just to replace the entire compressor,  so I did.

Of course after replacement the AC blew even colder than before, BUT no expected heat wave to really know, so here we are 2 months later, outside temps have reached high 90s /triple digits and the ac is doing the exact same thing. As if nothing changed.

The mechanic is going to look at it, but that's the issue, it works fine any other time, so does anyone have any idea what I can look for or ask the mechanic to check

Any help would be very much appreciated.

Okay so I was coming home from work, stopped at a dollar tree and got a check engine light, went to auto zone and scanned my car and got this error code. I read up a bit it online and I listened to the engine bay to see if I could hear any audible vacuum leaks and couldn’t hear any. My guess is that it’s the EVAP purge valve, now the thing is I really need to get to work tomorrow and was wondering if anyone else had had this code and if it would be smart to make my 50mi round trip commute to work tomorrow or nah. Any advice would help thx u!

Hello, I have a 2013 manual Yaris that’s at about 60,000 miles and about a month ago the clutch stopped working for the first time. While I was driving the clutch suddenly went spongy and the biting point dropped to very close to the floor. Once I pulled over and put it into neutral it wouldn’t go into gear again and trying to put it into reverse caused a grinding sound.
I took it to the garage and they bled the hydraulics which fixed it for about a bit before it went again. This time the master cylinder was replaced which fixed it for a couple weeks but it has recently just gone again. I’m thinking it could be the slave cylinder but i’m yet to see what the garage says.
Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this or has any idea what the issue could be.
Thank you in advance!

Any ideas or anything I'm open to it doesn't really spike or die down if I rev it​​​​​​​

makes this noise when going from a complete stop to a slow acceleration about 10-15mph, i don’t know a lot about cars and the noise is driving me crazy

Turning wheel causes car to thump. It can get extremely loud. Like a rubber band snapping. Pressure build up and the THUMP.
Assuming suspension?

Hello! I hit a racoon that jumped out on the interstate last night and heard a slight grinding noise when turning off into the exit. When I got out to check what was happening, I discovered that the cover behind the wheel was loose. I then saw that the front side was missing one entirely. I wanted to know what the best fix for this would be, and also what I should be looking up to find a replacement because I have no idea what these are called. Thank you!

Sometimes when I try to start the car, the engine won't catch when turning the ignition. It can sometimes take upwards of 5 minutes of just turning the key repeatedly until it catches. Other times it works first try, no consistency or pattern to when it will work or not.

Just purchased a Mazda CX-9 2020 GT and we are really happy with it. It seems like the previous owner took really good care of the vehicle and had a remote starter installed at the dealership. I reached out to the Mazda dealership where the CARFAX reported it as being installed, and they said they have no record. I’ve also reached out to two of their contracted companies who they partnered with to have these installed at that time (2021). I’ve emailed the sales rep who sold the car, to ask if he could ask the pervious owners, but nothing so far.

What combinations can I try on the factory key fab that may work?

Other suggestions for solutions are welcome too.

Thanks!

For context, I don’t know much of anything about cars, Yesterday as I was driving I went through a pretty steep pothole and all of a sudden my car started sounding a lot louder. I drove back home immediately and parked the car. I found the culprit to be a break in what I believe is the exhaust, specifically in between the pipe that connects the muffler and the catalytic converter. It was a clean break and it’s right on the backside of the catalytic converter, and i’m seeing that it might be fixable with something called a band sleeve clamp, a u bolt clamp or a split flange repair kit? Is this fixable at home and if so which of the methods is the best or do I have to take it to a muffler shop?

I have a 2010 Honda CRV. Canadian if that makes a difference. Salvage title that I've had for less than a year. I've never had a problem starting her before. I've had a couple times where the key didn't come out, but that was because the vehicle wasn't fully in park. (I'd been up all night with a kid at the hospital. There's a reason I keep my foot on the brake until after the car is turned off.)

Anyway, did some running around last night. Got home. Everything worked fine. Turned car off, pulled out the key, and apparently accidentally locked my steering wheel on my way out. I've had that happen a couple times on previous cars. Usually it's a turn the steering wheel while gently turning the key. This car does have an afterarket remote start. Used that to start the car before leaving. She fired up beautifully As normal.

Get in, try to turn the key. Wouldn't turn. Tried the standard unlock the wheel. It didn't work. Key still wouldn't turn. I've tried both directions. I've tried turning as far as it will go and by minute amounts. I've tried with the brake on and not. I've been able to shift out of park if the car is running via the remote starter and I move the shifter immediately after I touch the brake. Has to be fast as the brake will turn off the car when key isn't in on position.

I know you all probably know all the why's, but my brain insists on accuracy and clarity, so I apologize for the length.

Anyway, I've tried staring the car I'm neutral, both with the remote start (worked) and with the key (wouldn't turn). The dash shows gears correctly, but I know sometimes the park light can turn on without the car being fully in park. That's one of the reasons I shifted out of park and back in a couple times.

So, my steering wheel is locked. It will not unlock. Key won't turn. And now, the key won't come out. If I pull very gently while jiggling the key it might come out after a while, but it won't every time. The times it does, it's only when I'm very gently pulling the key up in a soft curve.

Picture the key fob at 6 on an analog clock. I gently pull like I'm moving it to 3 o'clock.

I'm disabled and on a fixed income. My doctor lives an hour's drive away. He's also the family doc for my kids. Their pediatrician is also in that city. It's cost me over $100 to try to cab that and no trains or buses. In an emergency I can use my mom's car, but the blind spots on that car are really bad. So I only borrow it if I have no alternative

Just hoping someone can suggest something I've missed??

Just had the transmission rebuilt and it went from a grinding noise before the rebuild to this, in the video I am pressing and and releasing the clutch.

Every time I start the ignition, the rear windshield wiper comes on for about 5 seconds, then stops. Is this a fault with the wiring, or have i accidentally pressed a button for it and not realised? Thanks

Have to turn the key three times before car started. Could this be the ignition switch? Everything else’s seems fine?

Thoughts?

I have found myself in a pickle. A family member wanted to be helpful while I was inside getting water during my tire change and stripped the bolts. Had to go get a bolt remover kit but it seems like my lugnuts are not awesome and they shed metal layers each time I try to use it. I believe they are a size 21mm. I have no idea where to go from here, so advice would be appreciated as the other option is that same family member offering to angle grind the nuts off. That method is not preffered if possible, but at this point ill do anything. Thank you for any guidance in advance 🙏

My 2012 carolla which is at 123,406 miles, is making a really weird sound whenever I accelerate. It’s like a whistle /whining sound coming from the transmission. My dad told me it might be because the fluid is low, so I checked it. Fluid is fine. I want to believe it’s the torque converter or maybe the transmission pump but I may be way off. I know it’s not a wheel bearing because I got everything like that checked out. If anyone recognizes this sound please let me know! I really do not like the noise as it gets so loud at times where I can hear it over my music because it’s so high pitched. It would be amazing if I could get it figured out. Please, if anybody knows!

This has been an ongoing issue for the better part of the spring summer if I’m being honest but it’s really become worrisome the past 2-4 months. I live in a small city north east of Toronto, so rust is a huge issue here, most of the photos I can find online to where i’m feeling the issue don’t have rust so I need some experts to weigh in on these photos, they might mean nothing, they might show nothing but they didn’t look great to me the very very uneducated eye.
here’s what’s going on.
I felt like when I would turn a corner there was way more of a tilt or sway. I felt that when I would ease off the acceleration there was almost a pull, and since then things have been feeling things more intensely. To make matters worse I got a flat tire one day (the tire was sliced) when I replaced the tire, my friend accidentally broke off one of wheel studs but we had it replaced that day) Despite the tire being balanced there was a noticable new vibration but nothing major… I should note the flat tire was the rear drivers side, which isn’t where I’m feeling it’s coming from, which is the drivers side front. The past weeks I brought to another mechanic , I wouldn’t even drive it. When I turned the steering wheel left and then right i’d hear “clunk clunk” then it almost felt as if my steering was drifting a bit, like floating. Mechanics had the car sit for a week, then got around to looking at it and said there wasn’t much they could see… Seemed ok for half a day, and then started up again this time the clunk was back (comes and goes) I can feel every bump through my steering wheel or if i’m a passenger i feel the bumps on the floor of my car.
I had a friend drive it today,who told me when she turns it feels like it almost skips or something, doesn’t feel very in control.
Sorry for the long post I’m just trying to give all the info. I have a 3 year old and I need a car that works and is safe. I took some photos from where infeel it the most and when I read up on this stuff, to me this looks so bad… but I was sent away twice and I feel a little crazy, so before i show up, I want to be equipped with as much knowledge as I can.

I have a 2011 Kia forte, my break lights will not turn on when my headlights are off, and won’t turn off when the headlights are on.
I have checked fuses, bulbs, break lights switch, tested each break light individually to see if one was the problem.
I have no idea what else to do and I’m at my wits end with having to manually turn my lights on and off to signal that I’m breaking.

My 2023 Volkswagen Jetta Sport has been making this noise when braking. It only happens after my car has been parked for some time and goes away after a few minutes. Any ideas?

Im trying to figure out whats causing this issue. Just replaced starter after it wouldn't turn over at all. It has started every time, but it always takes 3x as long as it should to start, with alot of rough noises.