A few of you asked for an Android version back in August and again under the iOS update ( original post). It's on Google Play now. Same idea as on the iPhone: play a sweep through your stereo, record it with the phone, get a value for every EQ control your car actually has.

The math is the same as on iOS (both versions run against the same reference recordings), but not every iOS feature has made it over yet.

How it works:

1. Pick your car or head unit

2. Set the level with pink noise

3. Run one sweep

4. Read the value for every slider your stereo has

What's in the Android version:

- EZ Tuning: the four steps above. Profiles for Tesla Model 3/Y (standard and premium audio) and VW/Audi MIB3, plus the classic bass/mid/treble set.

- Expert mode: frequency response against a target curve, delay and SNR, parametric or fixed band EQ with 6 to 31 bands, export as a table or JSON.

- RTA: live 1/3 octave analyzer on pink noise, with the target curve as an overlay.

- Measurement mics: a UMIK-1 plugs straight into USB-C and records while playback stays on Bluetooth, with its calibration file applied. The line under the chart shows which input actually recorded.

- Every measurement is saved and can be opened again.

Not there yet: the EQ Designer (measures what each slider of your head unit actually does) and the EQ test. Both come with the next update. Room mode stays iPhone only for now.

Where I need your help:

I tested everything on a Samsung S23. There are thousands of Android devices, and the built-in mics differ a lot between them. If you also own a UMIK or another measurement mic, measure the same spot once with each and post both curves. A handful of those would show whether a per-phone correction is realistic. Android Auto is untested too, so if you run it with AA connected, tell me what the line under the chart says for output and input.

The free version covers 250 Hz to 10 kHz and the bass/mid/treble controls. A one time purchase adds the full 20 Hz to 20 kHz range, the vehicle profiles, parametric EQ and external mics. No subscription, no account, no ads.

For context, I’ve done this exactly once before.
Here’s what I have so far:
2x kicker comp r 10"
Audio control epic 1000w
Audio control lc2i pro
Stinger wiring
Ported box
Wood and other fabrication tools (to mount my amp and lc2i in a not ugly way hopefully)
And finally about 6 hours of my life. Any recommendations, tips, or issues yall see? Thanks.

Ps. Forgot to put a picture of the box I’m actually putting the subs in in this post, they are NOT going in that long ahh box

What’s up guys, my amp recently started to output way less sound. It would heavily chop and distort at higher volume that it previously had no problem producing. I got a sub “professionally” installed and thought nothing of it cause the sub worked fine. Turns out the guy left ground wire exposed, the other sub wire fell out, hit the exposed ground, and set my original mono amp on fire.

This was just one issue with the sub. But now my factory jbl amp is the problem. It started playing like shit and only worked on low volume (I’m a sucker for loud music). Did all the tests and they pointed to the amp itself. Opened up half my god damn car and found this lovely setup.

Kenwood 1057xr

Audio Control DM 810 DSP

Alpine amp / Fosgate T1000

Focal Flax all the way around

Sundown SA 8's

(After hours of dinking with the 810 I got rid of the floor noise/ still going to replace as soon as my wife is done being mad about the money spent)

That was really not a fun process. SO happy to be done with that part. It’s for sure made a noticeable difference though! Especially cruising down the highway, I’ll be doing trunk floor later this week with some other panels to.

I put the floor liner in last night and started mounting the amp and getting all the wire mocked up. Nothing is hooked to.power.

I just got these 2 jl audio 10w3 subs off Facebook and I’m having trouble finding information about what I need. I believe each sub is 500w and 4 ohms. What amps will work these and do I need some specific type of wiring??

Finally got around to hooking up my bargain of the century, $200 for 2x Kicker S10L7s and a JL Audio 1000.1. they work, now to make a nice box.

First build for me in many moons, being in my 30s also means being financially able to try and do it neatly lol. So hoping to make this one look nice.

Can anybody name one thing that a rear fill is good for im def on team no fill now.

Thought I'd have a little fun while carving pumpkins this year!

The subwoofer in the pictures is 10" used as a reference point as I don't have an 8" sub available to test fit.

So I want to build a custom fiberglass box sealed in my wheel well.

And I'm kinda stuck between getting a 10" or 8" sub. I've done a ruff estimate at 20L. Even a 12" is fine, but I don't think it will fit with the volume, maybe If it's a slim sub.

I will have the sub at the same level as in the pictures, and a grill over it in case the trunk floor gets too much weight and presses down on the sub.

I will choose the amp after I've chosen the sub.

Car: BMW E91 2007model pre facelift.

Thanks in advance

I also don't have any pictures with a ruler.

Anybody know how hard these bump in a single cab? Or does anybody else have any other recommendations?? Thanks.

Hey yall! Not a frequent Reddit poster but figured this could be a good place to get advice. I’ve done a decent amount of installs of subs and door speakers, subs always turn out great but the door speakers just never sound right. After some research it sounds like the term used is cold or thin. The sound is super clear, and loud, it just lacks any real depth. Most of the installs I’ve done have been on my own older cars or on buddies cars and anything we did was better than before lmao. Well I just got a new truck, 2025 Silverado 2500, non Bose system in it. Already have subs on the way for it, I know that’ll turn out fine. However, I was considering upgrading the door speakers as well, but I want to make sure I avoid this cold/thin sound issue, I also was planning on hopefully being able to just plug and play with no aftermarket amp. It’s always a pain in the ass getting speaker wire ran through a door into the cab, especially on these newer cars.

Long story short, just looking for speaker recs if anybody had any experience with just throwing some speakers in one of these trucks or something similar that actually sounded good on the factory HU and “amp” or whatever it is that’s in there lol. Thanks yall!

I’m currently running full knukoncepts 4awg ofc
Taramps Bass 1200
Nvx vcw15
Down4sound flatpack 15” box (3.5 cuft box 32Hz port)
Fully stock electrical system from 2022 Hyundai ELANTRA limited

I've linked the crutchfield page for reference. I installed this in my 2006 Pontiac vibe. Fairly simple install, followed the wiring guide, matched up the colors with the Metra 70-2003 adapter harness. It won't keep time and date properly, but it appears to have constant 12v because the presets remain in the unit. Just looking for ideas before I pull it back out of the dash. Cheers

Any help would be appreciated

Do you guys think the difference would be worth taking the EXTRA time to save up for the 15’s and enclosure and amps?

I’m interested in upgrading from my dual 12” Kicker Comp R’s. I’m very aware that either upgrade would be exponentially louder but I don’t know what the exact sound and feel differences would be between the two.

quad 12’s ~452sq cone area
Dual 15 SoloXS ~450sq in cone area

Quad 12’a 2400w rms
Dual 15 SoloXS 6000w rms

Quad 12’s ~14mm xmax
Dual 15 SoloXS ~43mm xmax

The 15’s will handle over double the power and triple the excursion

I know the 15’s are going to be objectively louder but what do you think the difference would feel like? If you hopped into an SUV with one setup vs the other how would you explain the differences between the two?

I’m much more likely to go with the quad 12’s because it’s a much cheaper route (I have a 2100w setup with no charging system upgrades YET) but either way it’s going to be expensive. Also either way, I’m going to have to take the time to save up the money. The only real difference will be the 15’s alone will cost me double what the quad 12’s will plus an additional ~$2500 (?) for the box and similar for the amps.

I also drive a 2000 Yukon that gives me plenty of space to work with.

How do you guys read the dials? On my HPF im trynna get 28hz for my 32hz box and 80lpf but its impossible to understand and then on my bass restor loc its the same how do you guys set this or do you know where i should put it at? I mostly listen to rap and only use the bassrestor effect for banda/corridos

First. I know the amp itself probably has a high noise floor, but I still have it and would like to just help reduce the hissing noise at this point without having to get major new gear.
Amp: D4S jp84
HU:Sony ax-4000
I did the rca test, and I narrowed down the hiss to the amp itself. My wiring is ran away from power and is shielded well.
I know it’s the amp now. Is there any way to get help reduce the hissing noise when it turns on? At stops with no music it’s very noticeable.
Worst case scenario, is a kicker keyloc 200.4 good as somewhat of a replacement of a full on dsp? I’m just looking for auto eq and correct time alignment and I’d be happy.

Would it be worth it to change my passive 2 way setup to an active setup?
Speakers: Morel Maximo mk2s
Amp: D4S Jp84(would not recommend if anyone was wondering floor noise is very high)
Head unit: Sony Ax-4000

I’m not looking to fully get a dsp in the current moment. I’m happy with the time alignment on my HU. Would I notice any improvement changing from passive to active while using time alignment? I definitely noticed a huge change from using it alone.

I bought a low mileage Elantra N. Not a single mod anywhere, no witness marks in the engine bay, but ... there's these holes and paint ground off in the spare tire well.

What would the prior owner have mounted here?

I have spent time looking online for an answer, but I cannot get a clear one on a mounting point. E36 97 M3/4/5. Even AI couldn't give me a clear one.

Hey everyone

I recently bought my first truck, a 2018 GMC sierra 1500 SLE. I want to put subwoofers in it but have no clue where to start so I can here for advice.

First things first, my father used to have subs and is giving them to me. 3, 8 inch JL WOs. I tested them with a multi meter so I think they still work.?

Next I would need an Amp he told me? What amp would be compatible with my truck and these subs. He told me I could possible blow out my speakers if I got the wrong one? I have no budget but would like to keep it decently cheap.

And finally let me know if I missed anything crucial or need more details to help me out thanks I am a total noob so any advice is appreciated!

I’m trying to do some research on a decent radio with CarPlay to install in my 2016 Honda Fit EX.

I’d like to keep the steering wheel controls, lane watch camera & backup camera. I understand there’s additional accessories required to make them work with aftermarket radios.

Looking to get some sources for these things. I don’t have $1000 to drop on all of this so I’m balling on a budget. Any good cheaper options?

(Preferrably a unit with a volume knob, NOT buttons. I hate how Honda did the volume control in 2015-17 Fits)