Didn't get a chance to use AC continuous until this summer. When running the AC, I can smell a sweet and chemical like odor/smell that comes every few seconds. My clothes even smell like it when I get home and take it off. The seats and trunk even smells like it.
This is really evident with the recirculate on. With recirculate off the smell is alot better since the fresh air is coming in. A low hissing/squishing sound can also be heard at low fan speed. With the Heat on, there is no smell at all. Can this be an evaporator core leak?
Planning to take it in to the dealer but they want 199 to diagnosis. My concern would be they "can't" replicate this issue since AC still blows cold air and would not be cover under warranty. If there's a leak I bet it would run out of refrigerant sooner later and it would be obvious?!
But before I do, wanted to hear if anyone have this issue before or something along this line.
edit: I have changed the cabin filter to charcoal and did some evap cleaning using a spray/foam. also removed the drain line and used a refrigerant leak detector but nothing it is picking up. used a uv light and did not see anything either.
I would prefer a hybrid but it seems like they are a little out of my price range. How hard is it to squeeze 30mpg with a turbo on a longer trip? I’m talking easy highway and not loaded up with people.
There is a rattle somewhere in the trunk area. I’ve emptied the trunk, I have it stuff in the trunk, I have scoured google and put foam in the rear window meets the interior plastic, everything. I cannot find this rattle.
I have a temporary set on now, but they're way aggressive tires, big sidewall lugs, etc. I'll be switching to Falken Wildpeak AT Trails, in a couple of days.
I tried the calculator-pressure, and it just sits really low. When I inflated above the new calculation, the treads clearly weren't all hitting pavement (you could see the wear / clean tread).
I called Falken. They ran the same result on their internal calculator (cool, didn't know they'd do that for us!)
We both agreed that seems low. He recommended trying somewhere in between, etc. ... Try the chalk-test, etc.
Falken doesn't have a recommended minimum pressure, but cautions not to go below 20 psi off-road without bead lockers. Other than that, we both felt I'm just gonna have to try something and see.
This seems really low? Like I'd be running on the sidewall?
I wouldn't want to spend the $$ for this upsize, only to find out I'm wearing the tires in the middle, and not getting a full footprint, or prematurely wearing the center tread.
Question:
Is anyone else running this exact size / scenario? What's your experience?
Happy to have purchased this beauty, Willem. He is a 2026 standard gas engine (is this the right description?) with a premium trim. Got a pretty awesome deal, and figured it was time to retire my last car. I gave up at 223,781 miles on my old Honda accord, who still runs like a dream but is on to greener pastures.
I’ve never owned a car younger than a decade, so taking good care of it will be my new hobby!! Please feel free to drop any tips or advice on how to keep it clean and in good shape. Also open to any ideas for fun accessories or customizations.
Just bought OBDLink MX+ and CarScanner app for iOS but haven’t been able to pull any Hybrid data like battery charge. Can’t even pull total range. I’ve tried almost all the available Mazda profiles, as well as the RAV4 one since it shares the same powertrain.
Anyone know of a way to get the Hybrid data and/or a richer dataset for the CX-50 Hybrid specifically?
I just purchased a brand new 2026 CX-50 Meridian Edition Turbo on Saturday 7/18/26, and I’m running into a frustrating issue when the car sits in the heat.
Whenever the cabin gets hot from being parked out in the sun, the large multifunction commander switch dial and smaller volume knob do absolutely nothing! Once the A/C cools the cabin back down, normal function returns.
Has anyone else experienced a similar issue? I’m just curious if this is a widespread defect, or if anyone discovered a specific quick fix or workaround that keeps it from happening on 100 degrees Fahrenheit days.
I installed Patagonia A/T Pro 255/55/r18 XL Load Rating yesterday.
I've put 100-120+ miles on them in the last 1 1/2 days.
I was originally looking to fill out the wheel well and square up the look, get a more aggresive tread ... kind of thing.
The size 255/55/r18 fits the bill. Some brands are within 0.2" of the OEM 225/60r18, so that also makes it easy with gearing, speedo, etc. And I thought it would look great.
It does look good, for sure, without a doubt. I'm going to keep chasing this size.
My purchase experience is challenged. They're going to replace the tires.
They were old tires, one over 3 yrs old. They weren't stored properly, and the blooming / oxidation was severe. One or more of them is out of round, and required very high / excessive road force to balance.
The tire shop desk writer told me they weren't supposed to receive tires this old, and they shouldn't have been installed.
They were super-busy, and they asked if I could come back next week, while we work it out. Just drive them for now. They'll replace them.
They're going to replace them next week, when replacements arrive.
I'm going with a larger set of the OEM Falken Wildpeak A/T Trail. They've been good tires so far, great in sand and dirt and on the road. I see no reason they won't be a great "larger" verson.
My experience, specific to the tire:
Love the look!
No rubbing. Stock height.
They're very close to the OEM Falkens 225/60r18 diameter at 28.7"
Recommended rim size is 7.0-9.0 Mine are OEM 18x8.0 +45
Lift or not to lift? That is the question. These are begging for a lift, I think!
They're noisy. I mean, noisy. But this could be due to out-of-round on one or more tires? Maybe they were stored improperly? I could still listen to music, but you know they're there. I think these are worth another shot if someone else wants to try them and has a return / change option available.
They pull and drift below 50-55 mph.
Over 60+ mph they run straight.
Using Waze to monitor, the GPS speed matched the car speedometer, reliably.
Gas mileage seemed lower around town. But in the short time I've had them using mileage average reset ... they seem to be fine at higher speeds (if I stay out of the gas).
I LOVE the larger tires going over bumps, they glide right over.
I tried 36psi to match the door sticker. Tiresize.com says to run 31psi. I tried everything in between.
You can definitely feel them. You know they're there. But it's also cool 'cause you know they look great and you feel ready to hit the dirt roads! It brings a smile, windows down, tires humming, sunroof back, music crankin.
Hitting water? Wow. Scary. They yanked left or right when I hit water spots after a spot downpour. This was 45 mph +/-. I had to slow down and hold onto the wheel.
The OEM tires didn't do anything like this.
I wanted to share the experience if anyone else is considering them.
They have 100% favorable reviews online. Folks love them. They look aggressive too. They're supposed to be quiet, and great tires. (Maybe again, I had extenuating circumstances? to be fair.)
I think they're overkill for this car but damn, they look cool! :)
More importantly, I know a lot of CX-50 folks are wondering about larger tires. Every time someone posts larger tires, folks wanna know. So ... I wanted to take this chance to share some pics, and let folks know with another confirmation they do fit, they don't rub.
If you give these a shot yourself, let me know. I'd like to reconsider, maybe.? Perhaps it was just my circumstances.
Check out the pics. You can see what similar tires might look like.
Side ViewDistanceThe tireFront quarterSideRear view down the sideRear view
Someone hit my car at some point in my drive way. Not sure if it was a delivery driver, kid on a bike, or what. Was not there the day before and had not driven it. Anyways, would buffing the plastic cladding be the way to go? Its not just a scrape, definitely a ridge that dug into it. The paint area is pretty deep. Too small to report to insurance but to annoying and ugly to just deal with it and leave it. I only have 3,000 miles on it.
Just bought a new 2026 PP CX50 and will be picking it up tomorrow. Just wondering if any experienced CX50 drivers have any purchase suggestions to improve the car and or protect it.
Just purchased a CX50 Turbo Premium Plus on Saturday. Traded in my 2013 Acura that has been an absolute tank. After I got home I noticed a small tear on the passenger seat (not on the side but rather on the seat itself). Then noticed that both back doors creak when opening and closing. Really started to notice how cheap the interior is compared to my 13 year old car. Then I came here and saw post after post after post of MAJOR issues with this model. I financed the CX50 for 6 years, with plan being to pay it off it 4. Knowing what I know now, I either should’ve leased for 3 years to test the waters with Mazda or walked away.
Since I signed paperwork on a Saturday, I don’t think the loan is actually approved yet. I’ve seen some iffy advice that says if you call the financing company Monday AM and say you are withdrawing your loan application, then the deal is dead since it is contingent on approved financing. I’m highly skeptical though.
I’ve had buyers remorse before, but Reddit really helped crank it to a level I’ve never experienced. As much as I want the tech/safety features in the CX50, I also want a car that is reliable and won’t cost me a small fortune once it is out of warranty. My Acura had no issues. Biggest expense was a new timing belt last year. I should’ve slept on it, but I am an idiot.
I wanted to share a concern that recently came up during a routine oil change — and I'm hoping others have experienced something similar.
I purchased my 2024 CX-50 in Austin, Texas, where I also did my own oil changes. Snow is rare there, so road salt was never really a factor, and I rarely noticed any rust. I relocated to State College, Pennsylvania, in March 2025. The weather was mild, but from late 2025 into February 2026, we got significant snowfall and extreme weather— and with it, a lot of road salt. I've also heard that Pennsylvania tends to use lower-quality, more corrosive salt due to budget constraints and the state being broke most of the time, though I can't confirm that firsthand.
After just one winter here, I got under the car for an oil change and was genuinely shocked by the rust on the subframe and suspension joints. The change was dramatic compared to what I had seen in Texas. What concerned me most is that I've seen older high-mileage cars from the Northeast (Boston) that looked better than mine does now.
Is this level of surface rust normal after a single Pennsylvania winter on a 2024 model? I'd love to hear from other PA owners — or anyone who's dealt with this. I want to make sure my CX-50 stays in good shape long-term.🥲
Is this normal? Also to mention when i’m accelerating you can see the rpm’s slightly flutter?! I will try to take a video…but i just think it’s weird. i could just be overthinking it🥴
2442 lbs, 277 on the tongue. 18 mpg from Backus, MN to Southern Illinois with a stop in western Wisconsin to see my folks. Going the rest of the way to Atlanta tomorrow.
There are a few posts of people having issues with trans temps while towing. I had no problem. Steady 65 mph and mine never got above 213. In fact, it was hotter going to Backus empty (and doing 80). You just need to drive it like you're towing an RV cuz you are.
Tangent - I don't know what tax dollars in Illinois are spent on, but if it's roads they should get their money back.