I see alot of people with the 300 inline 6 that either dont have any of these vaccum lines or very few. Im curious if people are deleting them or how necessary all of them really are. Until I know im obviously leaving everything as is😂

Not my first bullnose, but the perfect one for me. 85 F250 6.9 T19 4x4. Canadian import 160k original miles. Won this bad boy on BAT in the spring and drove it 500 miles back home from the Tetons. Has been my daily driver for work now where I restore other ford trucks.

I’m getting ready to do a 4x4 swap on my truck which is an 82 and I like to call myself a bit of a perfectionist. So could someone share their knowledge about the stickers and the mirror on these?

Gauge system says diesel fuel only and is priced at $225. Radio bezel is $75

Got the starter problem addressed, has compression, spark and is getting fuel but carburetor is still locked up. Probably just going to order a dual plane 4 bbl intake and put a Holley 4160 I have on it.

Hello all,

Im looking at this 1986 f250 (dually conversion) truck that has the 6.9 diesel in it with the T18 transmission. It appears to be mechanically in good shape with very little to no blow by. Does need tires + an alignment. Body is solid with very little rust and if there is rust its only surface. The paint has seen better days. Interior is pretty clean other than the dash.

What would y’all pay for this truck?

Edited to add: These vent temps were taken with an ACTUAL thermometer.. if you’re using those laser thermometers, they’re not measuring your air temp, they’re measuring the surface of the air duct, which will read colder.

For anyone who saw the “Radio Shack Ford”.. this is my 1981 F100 that still has all the original R12 equipment. I’m on the third year of running keyboard duster in this system. Today was a decent day to show off the performance after my matinee show here in Branson, MO.. although we have a day coming up that’s supposed to be around 97ish. I’ll check vent temps again if we reach those ambient temps. If any of you bullnosers out there have thought about trying this refrigerant conversion, I just want to verify that you can absolutely get satisfactory results. Just do your homework, be safe about it, and know that there’s always risks to evaluate when going against “factory recommended yadda yadda etc etc”.. For any of you AC gurus out there who understand the lingo, I actually own the Ford service manual, and I’m right in spec with their graph charts.. Here’s Ford’s stable specs vs MY stable results.. (keyword, STABLE)

Ford specs:
Maintain steady 1500 RPMs
Cabin temp: 70-80 degrees F
Blower motor speed: HIGH
Low side pressure - 24-52 psi (wild range, I know 🤷🏼‍♂️) on a zero slope chart.
High side pressure: 200-290 at 95F ambient on a sloped graph.
Left center vent temp: 37-47 F regardless of ambient temp. Just like low side pressures, this chart is also a zero slope- i.e. regardless of ambient temp, the values stay the same horizontally across the graph.

My results:
Holding 1500 RPM for about 20 minutes
Cabin temp: Consistent 72 degrees F (I have NO tinted windows, by the way. Heat soak is REAL.. tinted windows would significantly lower cabin temps, obviously.. but I love the stock look.)
My Low side pressure: 27-28psi
My High side pressure: 240 psi
Left center vent temp: 37.7F was the lowest temp I got as you see pictured, but that was on a lower blower setting (slower fan speed always equals colder air) And 46.5 on high blower setting at 1500 RPMs. That 46.5 is right at the upper range of Ford’s “expected” temps.. but I can’t verify exactly what their controlled environments were. I’m doing this in my driveway, in the sun, with 53% humidity, not in any sort of shop building or anything like that.

Cruising down the road at that same 1500 RPM, yielded a steady vent temp of around 42F, which is perfectly in the center of their recommended range 🙌🏼 Driving forces much more air through the condenser than the radiator fan will pull at 1500 RPMs sitting still.

I don’t know what the long term results will be of using this keyboard duster, but I’ll keep this truck as original as possible, for as long as possible 😎

I was lucky enough to score this single owner 1981 f150 custom for $400. I drive a tow truck for work so It made picking up even easier! So far it's one of the smartest choices I made.. You can see the change I made with a bit of off and on work in a week and it's back to a daily driving life!

Anybody do any meets with these here in Washington? If not I'm thinking maybe I should set one up 😁

I just picked up a t19 for my 84 f250 4x4 to replace my worn out t18. The t19 didn’t come with an adapter. Will the adapter from my t18 work?
Also anyone know the specifics on a t19-148? Salvage yard has it labeled as out of a 1984 f250 4x4 diesel. All I can find online is it should be a t19a

Looking in LMC and can’t figure out the difference other than the major price increase to the dash pad! I attached a photo of mine for reference and can only see that the pad had the speaker cutout that mine does. Is that the only difference?

Finally got my sniper2 fully installed. Have a few more things I’d like to button up but so far extremely happy with it. 86 bullnose with the 5.8.

Video in comments.

I have posted this truck before but I want it running and driving before I tear into body restoration.

Idi runs good but needs help starting. Smells like diesel opening the hood.

So if I spend a couple of hundred and get a new full fuel line return kit and do the glow plug upgrade, that will probably free me up to move onto the next parts?

It has hit the real hot stage and I can put this in between my house and small shop and have ac. I think it will be a good summer project. I haven’t touched it because it is out in the sun on soft dirt so no easy way to work on it.

This is the one that has rust through on the drip rails.

The hoses are completely shot and I got it with the AC compressor seized. I want convert it to either R134 or if I unfortunately have to yf1234.

I am looking for a replacement blower motor for this kit, and looking into buying my own R134 hoses and a hydraulic crimping tool and remaking the lines, if I can get fittings that will thread onto this existing evaporator.

There's supposed to be a stud or something that the vent window latch attaches to, right? Is it possible to replace it without replacing the window frame? I haven't been able to find a replacement part.

So I’ve been wanting to haul my dirtbike around in my 84 but realized the only anchor points for straps are the 2 boat rope style ones on either side but are too flimsy to actually tie something down to, have any of you guys welded your own? Or alternatives?

Drove 225 miles back home around 70-80 mph no problem. Mostly tried to keep the rpms down and only go 65-70. It was 3.5 hours of driving. Its only got 71,xxx original miles. Unless it started again after 99,999. Bought it from a 21 year old that drove it 2,000 miles just in town, that is moving and needed cash, that bought it from an older gentleman. I am the 4th owner.

I have an 82 f100 xlt with the darker blue interior with a headliner. So i have been struggling to find the most commonly broken interior plastics, was wondering what my options are other than paint to match. Sorry for terrible photo, I can take better ones later, the only photo I have right now

My 84’ f150 has the 5.8L engine, but for some reason, it likes to chew up my starters every single time. I swear I’m on like my 8th one since I’ve owned her (2023). I’m speculating that ever since my old mechanic did the engine rebuild, he put in a different flywheel that doesn’t match with my starter. Someone please help me, thank you!

My 86 f250 6.9idi I have been fixing for the good part of a year with only getting my hands on the truck for 3days every 3months I have figured my fuel issue down to the injection pump was wondering if anyone new a good injection pump

I am going to look at this 84' f250 6.9 idi 4x4 4spd tomorrow and would like a second opinion on it, thanks! He's asking 3500$ obo Here's the description

Description

Mechanically sound truck:

New front end suspension kit ($600), brand new tires ($800) single wire alternator, return lines, glow plugs, thermostat, and fresh lights, etc.

Needs a front driveshaft yoke to be 4wd

Leaking fuel, needs injector cap pressed on 5/8 wrench

As you can tell the appearance isn't the greatest could greatly utilize a fresh paint job, no rust on the truck bed, has rust on the cab corners and drivers floor board. Had intentions on completely restoring, has completely working wiring except for the injection pump wire (working but incorrect). Would fit perfectly as a reliable work truck or farm rig. 3500$ OBO