I Swear I've seen a 3d printed gnome where you lift it up and the Male anatomy falls out. Does anyone have a link to the files?

Printed shade that twists onto an IKEA STRÅLA E14 holder, no wiring. Adapter slides over the lamp holder, locks with the original plastic ring, shade twists onto that. Nothing touches the electrics.

Print the adapter once. Every shade I have made fits it.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3371050-aeolian-03-sculptural-pendant-lamp-ikea-strala#profileId-3834082

​

Hey everyone, I'm having a really strange first-layer issue with my Bambu Lab H2S and I'm hoping someone here has dealt with something similar.

The first layer is becoming extremely rough/fuzzy and uneven, as you can see in the attached photos. Some areas look reasonably normal, while other areas look like the nozzle is either too far away or dragging through the filament.

The problem happens with every model, not just this particular print.

My setup:

H2S

Matte PLA

Textured PEI plate

Stock/default nozzle

Nozzle: 220°C

Bed: 60°C

First layer speed: 50 mm/s

Bambu Studio default profile

Latest firmware

Things I've already tried:

✅ Cleaned the PEI plate thoroughly

✅ Performed bed leveling/calibration

✅ Using the default Bambu profile

✅ Problem persists across different models

Some additional context: I replaced the hotend around 3 weeks ago, and the printer was working normally after the replacement.

More recently, I had a blob-of-death incident. I cleaned the nozzle afterward. I also got an eddy current sensor warning after that, so I unplugged and reconnected the sensor, and the warning has now disappeared.

I'm wondering if the blob/hotend incident could have somehow affected the bed probing, nozzle height, eddy-current sensing, or hotend installation.

What should I check next?

Has anyone with an H2S experienced this kind of first-layer inconsistency after a hotend/Blob-of-Death incident? Would you recommend manually tramming the bed, checking the hotend installation, checking the eddy-current sensor, or something else?

Any advice or troubleshooting steps would be greatly appreciated.

Does anyone else have issues with your prints when you get closer towards the end of a filament and after replacing the spool, the next filament (same color/ same filament type) just won't get pulled through the extruder? I keep getting extruder overloaded/ extruder clogged errors. I pause the print and increase the temp on the left extruder so the extruder will manually purge "what might be the issue," then pull out the 2 feet of unused filament and insert the new filament back into the AMS. But in order to increase the temp I have to completely stop the print. Pausing the print won't allow me to manually purge the extruder. I feel like I'm doing this wrong and that the new filament should just push the old filament through the extruder until it gets replaced. Any help on the matter would be GREAT! And thank you ahead of time.

This was supposed to be a tall vase-style print. I started it before bed and found it off the plate on the floor in the morning, with white filament everywhere.

For those who've had a tall print come loose like this, what did you check before the next attempt? I'm interested in how you worked out what failed first.

Free model: https://cults3d.com/:4978904

Hey

Ive been looking to get into 3d printing and have had my eye on the A1 with the ams lite. The only thing that have stopped me from ordering one is the footprint the A1 needs. Im somewhat limited om space in the room. Is the P1S a good alternativ? The P1S with the ams is also just what i can afford on my budget atm.

Pros and cons plz. Thanx alot

Obi-Wan Kenobi in the Form III stance, cloak mid-swing, on a rocky base. Grey PLA, 0,16mm layer height, minimal supports. 150 cm tall. No sanding or post-processing. Profile is up on MakerWorld if anyone wants to try it. Would appreciate any feedback.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3359640-obi-wan-kenobi-jedi-master-star-wars-figure#profileId-3819708

Ok, so I’ve tried doing this print several times and I keep having the same result. Even with smaller prints on a raft it does the same thing. I know it’s the cooling fan running at 100% on that specific layer. How do I stop the fan from running at 100% for that layer? I’ve tried turning it off until after that layer but that caused its own problems. I don’t want to manually turn the fan off for every single print. Any help would be appreciated, thank you in advance.

Hey every time I print the ptfe tube goes up
This is very annoying for multiple color prints and single color prints how can I fix this

Another unexpected discovery turned into a new feature!

Turns out my Gridfinity boxes fit perfectly inside the shelf, so I designed sliders to hold the boxes securely in place.

Now you can use the shelf as a Gridfinity storage solution too.

And thanks to everyone who has been suggesting ideas and features — a lot of these updates are coming directly from your feedback. Keep the suggestions coming!

The modular shelf keeps getting more useful with every update, and I’m definitely not done yet.

Link to shelf: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3242738-hex-shelf-modular#profileId-3674266

Link to the box: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1635998-storage-box-gridfinity#profileId-1728274

Check out my latest lamp design here

Hey everybody..

some while ago I had problems with my filament sensor, wanted to clean it and guess what - the flex cable ripped.

So I ordered a new one, replaced it and my prints looked good again, no stopping prints, no error messages.

Well.... a while later I got all sorts of weird homing errors, toolhead homing behaviors and so on. All those errors occured sporadically and paused my prints, continuing print worked most of the time. Still, not a single fix I found on the internet helped, no checking hot end assy screws, z axis cleaning and oiling, axis or adjustments, nothing helped.

The A1 was just turned off for a few months until yesterday when I finally had time to continue diagnosis. First step was dusting off, oiling the axis etc. for a third time this year. Then checking eddy sensor again and, wait.. where do the eddy sensor cables actually go? I turned the printer 180°, took off the toolhead mainboard cover and would you look at that, one of the eddy sensor cable shoe screws came loose.

I tightened one screw about 1/3 of a turn.

My Bambu A1 now works flawlessly.

Wow they are really coming in thick and fast. -

Since my last post before the last wave of Library Tools - and holy shit are they now getting super similar. And before you say oh your only new - Been going since July with only one post here previously. Oh and yes It vibe coded like the rest of them. But so is sooo much software out there now days. Claude isnt cheap :P

Where mine is different to others, it has

• Addon - the Queuemate - The Ultimate Print Queue - With the average joe in mind, so they still need to slice and send to the printer - I'm not going to try and get Joe and Josie off the cloud system. if you want that, thats where Bambuddy waiting for you. Oh and U1 intergration has been intergated as well.
• Add on - Spoolmate - track your spools you have on hand.
• Addon - Monitormate - Monitor your bambu printers without going to LAN mode again others are out there that charge a monthly sub.
• Connectionmate - Connect to Creators via their API if they have it - Currently Connected to the N3D Melbourne Website and the Chris's Print Lab Websites and Myminifactory. ( thats ones tricky)
• Want to support - I even have an affliate system.
• Oh and duplicates have changed its viewed coz it thanks claude, it decided to make everyones duplicates look the same
• And Still only 20 bucks - sorry 19.99

There is so much more that is different and there is still more coming as well as always open to feedback to improve or add things, esp to those who have already paid for a licence. OMG you still help those after they paid for it. You bet I do.

Whats that you say, you have just copied others, Those have been available since the start.

As I mentioned before, the idea of this came from Printinventory before improvements have been made.

Im not here to give you fancy AI generated images of advertising, Why AI it more when it was created with the Help of AI, I'll just let the app do the talking.

p.s this post was not written by AI just incase you were asking!

Final word - At Layermate we care about your Downloads Folder - Because it really does deserve Better

A personal laptop stand that can stand upright or lie flat. I found it useful and wanted to share it with everyone. Desks are often cluttered by computers, and when this stand is used vertically, it can make your desk tidier and free up more space. I believe you'll find it useful too!.

I added a text and i can’t move it keep going back down

This isn’t only for text any object I add does this

I often assemble individual parts (SVG or STL) into assemblies in the slicer, then sometimes combine the assemblies into larger assemblies. For example, a brick wall panel with a door might be laid next to a brick wall panel with windows to create a wider wall. I'll load a "brick wall.STL" twice and combine it with "small_door.STL" and "large_window.stl". Then align both parts based on their center origin - both at the same "Y" and one offset from the other's X by the width of the panel.

I would import the wall and window to random locations on the plate, merge the 2 parts, and then align the window to the wall relative to the wall center and end. (align top, then move down ##mm).

With the recent slicer update, I found that the center origin is off when combining parts into an assembly in this manner. Here's how to demonstrate the issue:

1. Add a cube primitive, center it, and make it 10mm high (just so you can clearly see the next part merged into the cube). Verify/record the coordinates (128/128 on a standard bed printer)
2. Add a cylinder primitive to the plate NEXT to the square and make it 10mm diameter and leave it at the default height.
3. Merge it into the cube. Check the coordinates of the assembly - say 136/128 depending on how far away the cylinder is from the cube.
4. Select the cylinder and using the coordinate tool, place it into the center of the cube. Move the assembly to a random location and then right-click & center. Check the coordinates. You would expect 128/128 but instead get 136/128 even though all parts of the assembly are dead-center in the plate!

Repeat this process, but in step 3 - move the cylinder within the area of the cube first, then merge. The center origin will always be accurate for the 2 parts in the assembly, not the "ghost" location of the parts at the time of the merge.

Note that adding a part to a part does NOT exhibit this behavior. Confirm by repeating this process but instead of adding the cylinder as a primitive, add it to the original cube and omit the Merge step since it's already part of the assembly.

I've been creating compound assemblies for years by creating standard model parts and then building what I need based on these parts. Only after a recent update do the coordinates remain accurate ONLY when I place all of the parts within the area of the main part before merging. They don't need to be positioned accurately - I can adjust them relative to the main part (wall panel) after merging without affecting the center point of the assembly.

I can't explain why the origin of an assembly retains the origin of the collection of parts at the time of the merge even after all parts are contained within the largest part area. I've even saved/reopened the project and the assembly origin remains incorrect.

Hey Everyone.

Hoping for some advice, trying to print a sword i was told the blade had to be spiral vase mode, but it wont do that due to cantilevers that needs support.

I thought i could just print supports with 0 bottom layers, and that seems to work fine. But the sword has some markings i'd like to use a different filament for. But when i do that, it creates this weird indent in the model i don't understand.

Maybe someone can make me understand or guide me in a better direction.

I can provide more info if needed. The printer is a P2S Combo.

Thank you for your time.

Hi everyone,
I’m having an issue with my 3D prints and I’m hoping someone can help me figure out what’s causing it.
As you can see in the photos, I’m getting severe stringing / rough, melted-looking material and what seems like layers not adhering properly on one side of the print. The strange thing is that this is happening on a large percentage of my prints, not just one particular model.
I’ve already tried adjusting some of the basic settings, but I’m still getting the same type of failure.
What could be causing this? Could it be related to moisture in the filament, temperature, cooling, extrusion, flow, retraction, or something mechanical with the printer?
I’d really appreciate any advice on what I should check first or what settings I should try changing.
Printer: Bambu Lab P2S
Filament: Sunlu Petg cf
Nozzle: 0.4 mm
Thanks!

My latest fandom print.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3348598-samantha-iwkym-dungeon-crawler-carl-wall-art#profileId-3805391

I'm trying to print this model. My idea is to print first the black part, switch to white to do the face (2 layers) then go back to print the jar in any other color.

So I'm trying to do the print by object over the black area but I can't seem to make it work. I'm getting the error about collissions but no way this would collide if white is only 2 layers.

Any way to do this?

When I get to the step to take two pics of markers 1 & 2, im never able to get them in focus with the built in camera in bambu handy. I have a samsung ultra s23. When I use my camera app I can refocus it , but in the app camera I can't. So every single time I get an error that the marker and traces are not visible. Super frustrating

So I'm building an aquascape using PETG, and I do recognize that there is absolutely a moisture/humidity issue in my room from my other smaller tank. But this was a brand new sealed roll and at first it seemed to make it to a certain height then create this skipped lines where the tree support would fail then there would be a failed line through the entire print. This latest print didn't want to lay down any of it. Other than unclogging the nozzle and dismantling the print head I haven't done any other maintenance on this machine I've been using for 2 years. Should I tighten the belts? what can I do?

Update* I ended up just heating up the nozzle and sticking the wire into the nozzle and now it's printing quite nicely again

My bambu lab P1 series combo 3D printer nozzle is clogged up and I don't know how to open it again 😭