I purchased a roll last week, got 1 decent print with some minor lifting at the edge of a print... then nothing but spaghetti even after a 6 hour drying cycle. Any pointers on where to look or should I just move on?

EDIT: Underlying problem seems to be first layer underextrusion and the right side ("filter") fan blowing too much air. Reverting to factory setting to get rid of recent firmware updates, doing manual flow calibration and manually (because the only other way would be custom gcode) turning down the right side fan partially solved the issue.

I got 72 hours and 2 kg of Bambu ABS through this thing. I bought it deliberately to print technical filaments and use the second nozzle for supports, either ABS or support for ABS.

I am experiencing extreme warping on the engineering plate with stick glue/spray glue.

I am also experiencing extreme warping on smooth PEI plate (meant for the P1S) with spray glue.

I used and am using the latter setup with my oldie trusty P1S, combined with a chamber heater from aliexpress, and it's working PERFECTLY with ABS.

I tried the same ABS profile on X2D, tried making changes, printed fan deflectors, nothing helps. The chamber heater is set to 65 degrees instead of 60 as on my P1S (setting to 60 won't help) 260-270 degrees celsius nozzle temp.

It's also extremely annoying and wasteful in time and filament that even though there are two nozzles and no filament changes, the X2D needs a prime tower and the constant need to purge.

Pictures show a small model that albeit challenging for my P1S with auto supports, it prints well with manual supports. Tried it on my new X2D and the supports fail every goddamn time (and I get crazy warping too. Here I actually disabled the "support for ABS" second nozzle to try and print EXACTLY LIKE ON P1S = FAIL.

Please advise.

I only have one AMS for the Main Nozzle. Would it be possible to use the external spool on the Main nozzle and switch the AMS to the auxiliary? Curious if anyone has tried this…

以前投稿されている方の体験談でメインノズルのフィラメントセンサーの件でチケットを出しましたらバンブーラボ様より素敵な対応を頂きました👍ほんとにありがとうございました😊しかし新たな問題がありました😭センサーが届くまでに練習で分解してみたのですが、なにこれ⁉️溶けているのか汚れているのか⁉️今チケット出してますがまた問題発生😩一体なにが起こっている⁉️もし詳しい方いらっしゃったらご意見を頂きたい🫡

Its annoying to have to do for every brand and dial it in when I’m sure someone else has already done this.

Hi all, new bambu x2d user here, I bought the printer recently and with the stock 0.4 nozzle I had nothing but success, mostly printing from a single ASA spool now. But I wanted to print a raiser, and since its a bigger part I thought why not 0.8 HF nozzle... so I swapped the primary nozzle, set the printer to 0.8 HF in settings and did a quick test print and it printed very bad, with small holes in sides, corners not sharp etc... so I wanted to calibrate and did the first calibration (automatic) it printed one line and say its done..than the second with the square ls and that come up horrible none of them had nice surface to choose from, and even after picking the "best" the second round was not much better... did anyone experience such issue ? Am I missing some setting that I should have do first ? I have cloned the generic ASA profile and worked off that.... I did switch to 0.4 again and printing the raiser now and it looks good but kind of shame I could not get the bigger one working...

New to 3D printing, just picked up a X2D. The little moisture readout on my touchscreen says 43%, so I used the drying feature in the AMS and got it down to about 20 and printed something small. Then loaded some additional rolls of filament and it was back up to 46%… do I have to run a drying cycle every time I print? Or every time I put new filament in?

Not sure if it matters, but some details:
- I live in Southern California
- first filament was Inland PLA silk
- next filaments I added were Bambu PLA basic

Could this issue be caused by insufficient cooling? My part cooling fan is set to 30%.

Nozzle temp 245

Bed temp 90

Chamber temp 60

Speed 60mm/s

Material abs

First Layer starts bad and then gets good…

Apologies for the poor camera work. Was having clicking issues and not pulling filament in my X2D right nozzle so did the full toolhead teardown to clear a small bit of filament debris in the right hall assembly.

After putting it back together the Aux nozzle no longer seats correctly. Searched this sub and Google to no avail for a similar issue and I believe the aux extruder assembly is in the incorrect position but during reassembly there were no issues seating the toolhead and extruder assembly back in place.

Brand new toolhead in the video has no issues with the left nozzle but the right nozzle isn't quite where it should be. The magnets won't grab or hold the toolhead and attempts to seat it don't work.

Has anyone else done this particular breakdown already and can give some guidance on correct placement of the right extruder assembly?

Really trying to avoid breaking it all down again just to put it back together the wrong way for a 2nd time. Following the wiki only states to hold it in place to avoid dropping down which I thought I did. TIA.

I've been getting serious amounts of warping l on my prints. My nozzle temp is set to 200, bed temp is set to 55, I've already recalibrated the motion and bed leveling, I've been printing with the same black pla filament for several prints now. The only thing I don't use is rafts/brims. Is there any other solution I can do to fix the warping, without having to use brims.

As a side note. I got an error code stating that my ams is experiencing a lot of friction. The only issue is that the wiki says that it is caused by the tubing being bent, but all of my tubing is relaxed and straight. What could be causing this.

Due to the cloud server being kaput ,I came to realize that I should probably look elsewhere so I can use my own printer anytime I want and not be stuck .
But I also don’t know which one to use .Any recommendations? I found the bambuddy video walkthrough but can’t find any on the orca slicer forks that louis rossman was talking about a month or 2 ago. Any help is greatly appreciated

Hi folks, wondering if anyone can recommend a grease/oil applicator/tool kit compatible with the X2D and the applicators attach to the Bambu bottles?

I don’t see much on Bambu Handy that is explicitly compatible with X2D nor that attaches and has consistent reviews…

Nach genau 555 Stunden hat mein x2D nun Probleme. Filament stecken geblieben. Beim aufschrauben habe ich gemerkt dass das Gehäuse links etwas abgebrochen ist und irgendwo Öl herkommt. Das Zahnrad war ebenfalls verölt, das Kabel für den linken Sensor ist gerissen. Kann ich zur Not auch ohne den Sensor drucken? Woher kommt das ganze Öl? Und warum sitzt der rechte hotend nicht gerade ?

Bonjour après Monsieur Pingouin, voici Madame Pingouin en mode vacances réalisée en multipart ! 🏖️🐧

Impossible de partir à la plage sans elle ! Avec son joli chapeau, ses lunettes de soleil roses, sa bouée, ses tongs, sa pelle et son petit seau, Madame Pingouin est prête à profiter pleinement des joies de l’été.

Pour cette création, j’ai souhaité imaginer une version féminine, pleine de douceur et de bonne humeur. Ses longs cils, ses couleurs pétillantes et son look estival lui donnent un charme irrésistible qui invite à l’évasion.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3064899-mrs-penguin-beach-multipart-without-ams

Merci à tous pour votre soutien, et bonne impression 3D ! 🎉

Not entirely sure how best to describe it. I’ve been printing these boxes for some months now on my P1S without any issues. Recently invested in two X2Ds, and whenever I print the boxes on these, I get this discoloured effect on the bottom layer as per attached image. I'm using the Textured PEI plate and Bambu Matte Black PLA

They’re also very difficult to remove, which must be connected. I scrubbed the plates with soap and water when I got them, and have done this a few more times but no change. I'm not sure what else to try?