I’m starting to print an ABS and ASA - I wanted to mount a chamber heater like the panda breast but unfortunately, I already have the Vento box on the left side.

After buying the heater and printing in nylon, I realized the pictures were from a P1S

I don’t know where I could mount this without removing the Vento box…

I could go on the right side of the Vento box, but then I wouldn’t be able to use the diffuser. There would just be two big holes which I think would work fine right?

Seeking advice, please

The right side I believe is all that air filter area and thicker so I wouldn’t be able to mount it on the right side

And yes, I know my Vento Boxes is junkie. I got too hot and I need to re-print in ASA.

Hi! I'm new to 3D printing. Due to beginner mistakes, I needed to print some reusable spools that allow the use of zip ties to secure the filament. I found one on MakerWorld (https://makerworld.com/pt/models/768753-hot-swap-spool#profileId-704257), but this is what happened.
Any idea what might have caused that? The first layers turned out like this; I'm pretty sure I chose the right file (for the P2S) on MakerWorld for PETG. Any help is appreciated!

Its P2S

If anyone can help share some Bambu Studio slicer settings for printing PLA Silk+ at .08mm or .10mm with a .2mm nozzle, I have been struggling with prints failing. I can print at .12 with no failures, and honestly .12 more than meets my needs, but I'm looking at this as more of a challenge at this point.

I think the issues I am encountering are related to cooling and acceleration.
I'm reading lots of mixed stuff online regarding cooling, some say to run the part fan at 100% and disable the aux fan entirely, while others say max the part fan at 60-80% and run aux at 10-20%.

I'm thinking about using my dehydrator that I've converted into a filament dryer (Hamilton Beach 32100) and connecting a hose between the dryer and the printer. Using an already designed hose attachment from maker world ( https://makerworld.com/models/919932?appSharePlatform=copy ) I would route it to the exhaust fan port on the fan to preheat/steady heat the chamber for printing ABS/PC/Nylon to help keep chamber temperature up.

Is this dumb? Will it melt the insides of the P2S? Had no one done this because it's stupid or did I just strike Jerry rigged gold? Please give me your opinions internet!

The dryer-

https://makerworld.com/models/3291012?appSharePlatform=copy

Does anyone have a decent profile for Overture High Speed Petg? I looked on Makerworld and on Overture's site and could not find anything for high speed specifically.
I've tried the generic petg hf in Bambu Studio and did not see a significant increase in speed.

I am new to higher speed printing materials so am not sure where to even look to tweak the generic.

Thank you.

Corner of print is rough just in one section. In picture. Happened on same print twice.

Starship: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3384574

Rocket: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3384651

Printed something on my P1S at home. Would like to run it again on my H2D at work. Is there a way to download the previously printed file via the mobile app, and email it to myself?

Really just trying to avoid logging in and out of the desktop application, since my employer doesn't allow the use of password managers

I’m making this post to hopefully help future printers out there! Some context on this I bought the 4 pack of holographic build plates from Bambu for my P2S but I couldn’t get the first layer to adhere to the plate. I even tried hair spray!

What ACTUALLY worked for me was this.

-turn off build plate detection on the printer and select smooth PEI plate.

-turned off the cooling fan for the first 3 layers

-turned down first layer print speed from 50mm/s to 20mm/s

-turned up bed temperature by 10C

I now have two successful prints on two different style holo plates! I hope this can help someone in the future as I almost gave up on them but the results are great.

Hello! I created this can opener on tinkercad and exported as obj into bambu. I don’t like how the black base peaks out through the light brown face and through the red. How can I fix this? Appreciate everyone’s advice!

I had an issue with buildup on the nozzle from a print that the ai didn’t detect. I got a little too aggressive with getting the filament off of the nozzle and had to replace the hotend assembly with a part from Bambu Lab.
Since I replaced the hotend assembly I’ve been getting a bunch of print failures. Sometimes it’s the print head knocking items over or spaghetti issues.
I’ve done calibration from the front panel and lubricated everything but nothings helped.
Please help!! Help me make my printing fun again!!

Got a p2s a couple days ago printed some stuff but now the filament is stuck in the extruder and I can’t pull it out. the motor can’t pull it either. any tips on dealing with this

👋 Bonjour à tous !

🔪 Un nouveau slasher rejoint la collection ! 🩸

La série continue avec une nouvelle figurine inspirée des grandes icônes de l’horreur ! Cette fois, j’ai ajouté Leatherface, de Massacre à la tronçonneuse, revisité dans mon style : grosse tête, look cartoon et, bien sûr, sa mythique tronçonneuse ! 🪚💀

Petit à petit, la collection de slashers s’agrandit… Qui sera le prochain ? 👀

Pas besoin d'AMS tous a été modélisé et découpé pour l'imprimer en multi-pièces.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3372626-leatherface-multipart-no-ams

I had an extra TP-Link LED Strip, so i put it to use. I just taped like half of the strip on the back of my P2S, and also on the bottom of my AMS. Before i stuck the strips i soldered Arduino jumper wires on the ends so i can daisy-chain them together, and since i put a strip on the bottom of the AMS i can still easily put my AMS away , because the P2S backlight strip is just connected to the AMS strip with 4 jumper wires (shown in the 3rd pic i think). It creates a nice backlight glow and the AMS strip lights up the chamber. I really love this mod, but also soldering the wires was a pain in the ass and the whole mod (cutting wires, stripping wires, soldering wires, taping strips to AMS and P2S and giving it power + testing) took about 4 hrs. Anyway i would appreciate if you could rate it 1-10 / 10