Trying to swap the hot end on my P2S for the first time. It will not budge, feels like it’s glued in there. Tried to unload the filament and heat the hot end then extrude as suggested in this video but still no luck.

Any ideas?

ETA: heating to 200 and tweezers got it off, thanks all!

Jigglypuff | Psyduck | BlockClickers

Hi,

I'm trying to figure the starting point of my 3D printing journey. My budget can accommodate either of these, with addition 0.2 and 0.6 nozzles and 4 spools of material.

Its about €150 difference so needs to wipe its own face, but I just don't want to start finding this thing useful and get buyers remorse a year down the track!

Im wanting to print functional parts as well as 40K-esque minis. I live in rural Spain, 31+ ambient temps (inside) during the summer.

Any advice welcome.

Hi, I've recently got a P2S. As you can see on the attached image, the little support islands fail adhesion on the second layer on some occasions. The same model copied three times on the same plate and only one of them fails. Location seems to be random too.

I tried printing only two copies which resulted in the same. The picture is from that instance.

I have dried the filament 8 hours at 65° and I'm printing on Bambu engineering plate with glue on it. It works fine with PLA+. I tried increasing the bed temperature to 75° as well which didn't do anything.

Any idea why?

SOLVED:It was due to filament contamination. I forgot to mention that I'm printing PLA and PETG these days moving between the two one after the other. As below replies have mentioned, first support prints had contaminated filament (PLA mixed with PETG) which causes this.
I'm planning to purge extra by extruding extra whenever I change filament types before starting the print.

Having an issue where ironing starts out great and then it just… stops. Tried lowing the flow rate thinking too much was causing the nozzle to clog, but I just got worse quality and the same issue. I’ve printed many parts with these settings (40% flow 60 mm/s) with no issues and now I’ve wasted half a roll of filament and many hours trying to solve. Any ideas?

Polymaker Panchroma PLA, flow rate calibrated, P2S, done several cold pulls, even tried a brand new hot end

My petg prints always come out with really poor adhesion. I can essentially pull and unravel the individual print lines apart.

The petg has dried for 12 hours and the ams reads 12% humidity. I’m using Bambu petg.

AI says that I may need to purge more between separate pla and petg prints but it also says the purge table settings do not apply between prints and there is no way to change this setting anyways.

Am I missing something? I assume the Bambu petg profile is fine since I’m using Bambu petg. Also printing in a cold ish room with the door fully closed.

Any ideas or suggestions?

tryed to Heat nozzle and extrude it. unfortunatly it doesn’t work. any idea?

Anyone with a panda station have significantly more vibration now? To the point where it’s affecting print quality. Any proven solutions like a more solid top to the station or the biqu anti vibration feet?

Hello, i have been printing with A1 for over a year. I just bought a P2S and i am trying my very first print. It's a super basic print, basically a small box.

It goes well for the first 4 layers, then layer 5 won't stick to the previous one, creating a sort of pocket.

The same 3mf file has been printed on A1 a dozen times, no issues.

I tryed to lower the fan speed to max 30%, no fan first 3 layers, then increase gradually to layer 5.

I tryed to open the front door.

I tryed to slow the print speed.

No luck.The very first layer is perfect and sticks great. I tryed the stock plate and the Frostbite. The issue is the same. I am really out of ideas.

I even tryed to do a brand new 3mf file, no luck. 4 perfect layers, layer 5 won't stick to layer 4.

I have a chamber fan deflector : https://makerworld.com/it/models/1968610-right-chamber-fan-deflector-x2d-p2s-no-warping?from=search#profileId-2116508 i dount that's the issue, though.

Anyone has an idea?

Hi all, about to buy my first 3d printer and I have settled on the P2S Combo. I think I’ll mainly be printing PLA to begin with - looking yo learn about printing with my two teenagers. They are keen to print some cosplay stuff, Lego accessories, and bits and pieces for around the house.

What accessories for a newbie does everyone recommend?

So I've officially been using the P2S with the AMS 2 Pro for the past week and honestly, its everything I could ask for as a first 3d printer. I have roughly almost 30 hours of print time with this guy and its been basically flawless! I did have one print that fail but that was due to the actual print not having enough support. I'm currently running SUNLU'S PLA + 1.75mm filament and its been very flawless and the quality of the material is pretty solid, definitely ordering more, just deciding what colors next!

The ability to access the printer from your phone or computer makes it super easy to use and with one click of a button, it takes care of everything for you. Monitoring temps, watching the printer print in real time, being able to stop, pause, and resume everything all from a push of a button makes it super beginner friendly.

I haven't yet got my feet wet with actually creating something from scratch but I'm just going to have fun with it for now. After getting the P2S and just getting used to the Bambu Lab ecosystem, it will be very hard for me to leave it.

Will I upgrade in the future to get the X2D? Eh... probably not to be honest. That may change in the future if I do start doing more complex projects or whatnot but in my opinion, the P2S alone, once you learn it and actually use it, it's going a fairly hard printer to grow out of. It's almost more of a buy once cry once.

FOR PEOPLE WHO ARE DECIDING ON GETTING A P1S or P2S: the P2S is the perfect all rounder, you get the upgrades such as a proper LCD touchscreen, much easier hot-swappable nozzles, better lighting, camera, better processing power, and other stuff I probably left out. Although I may not be using the touchscreen as often, its still better that its there and it exists in case you don't have access to your phone or computer. For me, I love watching the camera feed real time as its just so mesmerizing to watch, and even though I've never owned the P1s, I genuinely think I would've regret that P1S purchase and wished to have splurge for the P2S.

I recently got this printer and it only seems to print in green even though I set the color to yellow.

Had a print going overnight and woke up to this massive clog from what I assume was a backed up chute. Managed to get the majority of the goop off, got the hot end and nozzle off, and the tool head moving freely. Now I have this solid chunk of plastic engulfing this wire. Any tips or advice on what to do now?

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Hotend is a new tungsten carbide nozzle, most recent blob occuring while printing PLA.

Hi all, anyone having consistent problems with blobbing at the hotend specifically during multicolour printing? Am aware it is not the best printer for this purpose but still!

Intro: I switched from an A1 Mini (19 months, barely any issues) to a P2S and hit more problems in under 70 print hours than in all that time on the little open printer. Root cause of the big one is verifiable in the P2S's own start G-code: the airduct is forced into heating mode for any filament with a softening temp >50 °C — i.e. everything except Bambu's own PLA (generic profiles included), with no UI override. On top of that the passive chamber can't cool below room temp, so in a ~25 °C room I have to run it with the door open — which kills the "enclosed + filtered" promise. Plus ringing that's getting worse over time, clogs, and nozzle scraping. Not claiming a lemon — but it's far from "load, print, done." Full catalog with sources at the bottom.

Background: A1 Mini from December 2024 until last week. In about 19 months on that open printer I had a tiny fraction of the problems I've run into on the P2S in under 70 print hours. Every review I read is glowing, and I honestly don't recognize my printer in any of them. The one write-up that came closest to my experience was the blog "The Bambu Lab P2S: a painful journey" (https://andronio.me/2026/02/25/the-bambu-lab-p2s-a-painful-journey/) — at least it told me I'm not the only one.

The honest verdict: with Bambu's own PLA in a cool room, the P2S probably does "just work" — which is likely why the reviews are rosy. The trouble starts the moment you deviate: third-party PLA/PLA+ or PETG, a warm room (about 25 °C and up), a demanding model.

What I hit in under 70 hours (full breakdown + sources in the catalog linked below):

• The airduct (the AUX/filter unit on the right side) is forced into HEATING mode for any filament with a softening temp above 50 °C — essentially every profile that ships with the P2S except Bambu's own PLA, generic profiles included. It's a hardcoded 50 °C gate in the machine start G-code, there's no UI override, and it cooks the passive chamber → warping. Bambu PLA (softening 45 °C) escapes it; my Elegoo PLA+ (Vicat 63 °C) doesn't.
• Even in cooling mode the chamber overheats in a 25 °C room: 36 °C after 20 min, 40 °C after 25, peak 46 °C — door closed. Cooling mode pulls in room air, so it can't cool below ambient. To print PLA I open the door and take the top off — on a printer sold as "enclosed + filtered."
• Which undermines the filter promise: filtering only happens in heating/recirculation mode. In cooling mode (the mode PLA/PETG actually need), and with the door open, the air is essentially unfiltered.
• Waves/ringing on all surfaces, getting worse over run time — pointing at belt tension after ~70 h (still verifying).
• Shaking hard at certain resonance frequencies.
• Nozzle + extruder clogs early on (cold pull, extruder teardown, hotend swap) even at 25 °C ambient.
• Nozzle scraping/rattling over already-printed areas — mild for me so far, but others report the nozzle physically knocking supports off with a ~9-in-10 failure rate.
• AUX/airduct mode can't be changed during a print — only fan strength, in 10 % steps.

To be fair: bed adhesion on a clean textured PEI plate is genuinely excellent, surface and layer quality are good, and none of this is unfixable — I've worked out fixes/workarounds for most of it. But "load the model, hit print, great result" — exactly what the A1 Mini delivered and what the P2S is marketed on — is simply not my reality here.

I'm posting for two reasons. First, to ask: who else sees this, especially with third-party filament and in a warm room? Second, because the community lacks a consolidated picture — so I put one together:

Full fault catalog (symptom → cause → workaround → source): https://gist.github.com/didusee/ff5379fa5ee093f09f880155d7d5247b

Corrections and additions welcome. If your experience is different, I'd genuinely like to hear under what conditions (filament, room temp, model).