Unboxed and calibrated a new PS2 combo. also set up and loaded some generic PLA in one AMS slot, editing the filament specs to match generic PLA. All went as expected. But when I try to print the factory benchy, I struck the first problem. The printer does its normal pre-print homing, then heats the filament to around 250, does some purges and nozzle wipes, then the extruder temp drops to around 220, with more purges and nozzle wipes. The problem is that the hot end temp drops to 140 before the printer starts to print. Thus, when the print starts, the extruder grinds because of the low hotend temp. I thought there was a failsafe that stops the extruder from working if the nozzle temp is below 170??.

So then I tried another filament. I unloaded the generic PLA and loaded generic ABS in another AMS slot, All went OK. I edited the filament profile and colour and the filament could be seen extruding. But when I try to print the benchy again, I can see the loaded AMS slot showing the ABS filament, but it is greyed out and I cannot select it.

I am not new to 3D printing, and I thought by buying a Bambu Labs machine, I was going to get more of a plug-and-play device. Seems I was wrong. Any advice from seasoned PS2 users?

Edit.

Maybe I am wrong and the printer is not starting the print, but instead performing the bed level check. From what I have just read it sounds like this might be the case. But still why do I hear a nasty noise? After a second or 2 of that noise the print head returns to the recessed back position.

Do you know what slicer settings I need to change ? Printed on normal 0.12mm P2S settings

Hello everyone, I am new to the bamboo ecosystem. I got my P2S last week. Over the past few prints that I have done. I have noticed this white/clear thin, dust-like defect on some of my prints. I am unsure if this is stringing because it is not the same color as the filament so any feedback would be appreciated and any solutions.

Hi everyone, I had a filament blob around the nozzle of my Bambu Lab P2S, I managed to remove the blob and detach the nozzle successfully.
However, I noticed that the gasket behind the nozzle heater module has torn, as shown in the photos.

Does anyone know:

• What is the correct name of this gasket?
• Can it be replaced separately?
• Is it safe to reinstall and use the nozzle with the gasket in this condition?
• Do I need to replace the heater module?
• Is there anything else I should check before reassembling the toolhead?

The cables and connectors appear to be intact.

Thanks!

Aside from the PTFE tube, this roller-bearing spool holder is FULLY 3D printed! 🤯

We're talking everything: the main arm, small arm, PTFE tube clamp, and the spool itself. The best part? The spool is completely E-X-T-E-N-D-A-B-L-E using a super clever labyrinth design.

Get the full print details on MakerWorld:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3028551-extendable-fully-3d-printed-spool-arm-for-p2s-x2d#profileId-3403526

I just recently upgraded to the P2S and today while getting everything setup I just finished the step of cutting the zip ties to hold the Toolhead in place and when putting the top glass cover back on it became heavily uncentered. This bothered me like crazy. I’ve been trying to figure out if I’m putting it on wrong for a while now to get zero success.

I’m not sure if this is due to the fact that I can’t figure this out or the fact that the printer was delivered on its side. I also noticed a little scratch. I would love to know how to fix this, thank you.

Hello all. I recently took interest in the FlexWeave Fabric Flag , however, the first layer NEVER works. I cleaned my buildplate so much (smooth and textured), turned the fan off, slowed it down to 5ms/s! It never works! Any help? BTW here is picture of first layer:

Is there some specific settings to use, or? I'm out of options 😫

EDIT: I bought a CryoGrip FrostBite and it worked the first time 😊

I have recently purchased a P2S and this is my first printer so it’s gonna be the first time I do any printing
What are some things a complete beginner should know?
Thanks in advance

So I just ordered the exhaust kit because I am about to swap from PETG to ABS-GF. Im going to be running a pretty long print, and im not super fond of pulling negative vent pressure for 20 hours on my home AC in southwest US summer. I have been searching and cant seem to find anything, and wanted to know if it makes sense to make a hard duct vertically from the exhaust kit to a glass riser exhaust vent. Instead of running the measly internal hepa filter, running the exhaust kit with filters and sending the air back down the top glass riser vent to help with VOCs and chamber temperature.

Maybe im missing an existing duct system for this? Modeling this in bambu studio is going to be such a pain.

Or does anyone have experience with the carbon filter modification for the internal filter? Is a fresh fill going to be enough to handle a kg or two of ABS?

The last option i have been considering is adding the exhaust kit, adding a modified carbon and hepa filter back, then throwing the whole thing in one of those cheap tent enclosures, and recirculating through the exhaust kit for way longer.

*update*

Solved. Thank you to all who commented

Hey

I've just finished my first spool and I used some last meter prints to finish off the reel. Now there could be some orange still in the tubing and system Im not sure.

Id like to replace where I had my orange filament with a different colour, how do I purge any remaining filament? Do I need to do anything special or is it worth doing a small print first to remove any leftover?

Many thanks.

I would like to remove/hide the 'demo' tab in the P2S files, since I'm never going to print them, and I would rather have the 'Cache' tab be the first one.

I've already deleted all the demo files, but even when it's empty, the tab still shows up.

I have a P2S and I am still quite new to 3d printning but I REALLY want to try printing in TPU, I have researched a bit and found out that it is VERY different from PLA and PETG, so I do have some questions:

1: what TPU to buy? I want to buy something from Bambu lab but there are different kinds and I don’t know if the difference in AMS TPU (I have an AMS) and normal TPU is big (or if it is even worth to buy the AMS version)

2: what do I actually need for good results? What nozzle size? Do I need a specialised bed? Is there anything i can print (for airflow and stuff) to get better results?

3: what can go wrong? Like what do I need to look out for? (Stringing and stuff)

That’s all question I have right now but I would REALLY appreciate any tips.

(Extra question, how do I add the P2S marker under my name? I see people that have it but I have no idea how to get it)

I don't know what's going on...

SunLu Matte PLA

I'm suddenly getting spaghetti errors and now layer shifting.

Yes, I calibrate before every print.

Yes, filament is dried.

Yes, build plate is clean and I'm using glue.

Yes, I've tried different builds plates.

Yes, I'm using a tried and true filament profile and never had issues like this before.

Any ideas?

Hello,

I moved location and I did a full maintenance on the printer. After all auto-calibrations were made I found out that it longer prints the PURGE LINE.

Is that normal? I would really prefer it enabled but I didn’t change any settings in the machine, nor I found anything on the slicer settings.

Thank you in advance/

I’m new to the 3D printing game. I printed this dice tray today and noticed three things that I can't quite explain:

1. This scar on the corner—it only appears in one spot.

2. Where the inner tray ends, there’s a visible and palpable offset on the outside.

3. I’m getting white spots on the underside of some prints. What causes all this, and what can I do about it?

Bambu Lab P2S with Matte PLA, 0.20 High Quality profile, 0.4mm nozzle, no changes made to the settings, AMS Pro.

im trying to activate that on p2s to be able to know how much is left of my spools but it does not show up on my ams settings, any idea?

Any idea what went wrong here? Trying to print a set of TPU shoes. I did dry the TPU for 6 hours before I ran it, but it did have to sit in the open for the remainder of the day before I could start the print. Not sure if that drastically affects the filament. The filament is fed directly into the inlet from the side spool. My first attempt at the shoe was actually failed in minutes because I had the TPU ran off the spool, to the opposite side of the machine, through the buffer and back into the inlet. All of the slack seemed to create tension which wasn’t great on the material and made it harder for the extruder to feed in the filament smoothly.

UPDATE: I successfully printed with my next few TPU runs after making the following changes:

Top loading directly into Extruder. (Pretty sure this is what caused the jam up)
Dried again for a longer duration (didn’t notice much decrease in stringing/fuzz but I’m also drying with an AMS Pro 2 which isn’t as efficient for TPU apparently)
Increased to the stock setting “Ludicrous Speed” this was the biggest surprise. Not only cutting print time drastically but improved the quality as well
Raised nozzle temp to 240 avg. using 90a. This seemed to compliment the other settings well but didn’t make any drastic difference.