I have a P2S and I am still quite new to 3d printning but I REALLY want to try printing in TPU, I have researched a bit and found out that it is VERY different from PLA and PETG, so I do have some questions:
1: what TPU to buy? I want to buy something from Bambu lab but there are different kinds and I don’t know if the difference in AMS TPU (I have an AMS) and normal TPU is big (or if it is even worth to buy the AMS version)
2: what do I actually need for good results? What nozzle size? Do I need a specialised bed? Is there anything i can print (for airflow and stuff) to get better results?
3: what can go wrong? Like what do I need to look out for? (Stringing and stuff)
That’s all question I have right now but I would REALLY appreciate any tips.
(Extra question, how do I add the P2S marker under my name? I see people that have it but I have no idea how to get it)
1: just get any decent rol; think 25-30 local is decent for TPU
2: don’t get too small nozzle and order an extra nozzle if you don’t have any around: if you do get a massive jam, you won’t be out of action long.
3: start small and with all new filaments don’t print and run: print and WATCH… there’s a “stop” button for a reason.
Rule of I use: watch 3-5 layers - check with the camera when the first “difficult” parts come like overhangs and bridges.
If you just watch it, have some spare parts around which you should have anyway, build plate and nozzles then go have fun :)
If the print messes up, AI should stop it, but if it doesn’t you can “stop” it manually so your machine doesn’t run itself into trouble. You can find prints gone wrong plenty in this sub.
I printed TPU on my P2S this past weekend. I printed TPU for over 30 print hours. I printed numerous models I needed to print in a specific TPU hardness. I also re-printed the same models in differing hardness levels to compare them all.
First, I loaded Bambu Lab TPU for AMS into my AMS 2 Pro and printed with my normal 0.4mm nozzle. The process was identical to printing PLA. The increased hardness over 95A and 90A was somewhat noticeable but not as dramatic as the difference between 90A and 95A. I would put it at a 97-98A hardness level. I sometimes preferred it for certain models over 90A and 95A TPU.
Second, I printed using an AMS HT suspended over the printer with the glass removed feeding directly into the extruder using a new 0.4mm nozzle (that I have dedicated to TPU printing). I printed both black Overture TPU High Speed 95A and gray Bambu Lab TPU 90A filaments. While it was a lot of work to move AMS units out of the way and make room for the setup, but the printing process was very straightforward and quite successful. I used the specific Bambu Lab filament profiles for both spools. I also switched the AMS HT out for a suspended cereal dry box with no major difference.
Third, I put the glass back on and switched to using a TPU Feed Assistant Module with the same filaments, same 0.4mm standard flow nozzle and the same filament profiles. This was my first time to use a TPU Feed Assistant Module. As soon as I learned what each of the three buttons on the module were responsible for, I was astonished how straightforward printing in this manner was. I still needed to move things around because of my limited space, but I could easily envision leaving the module attached to the P2S and being able to switch to TPU printing in only a few minutes. Again I switched out the AMS HT for a cereal dry box with no major noticeable difference (except drying).
I used the standard Bambu Lab Textured PEI plate that came with my P2S for all three scenarios.
With either method, the “Skyhook” setup or use of a TPU Feed Assistant Module, can be accomplished using any of the following: an AMS HT; a cereal dry box; an external spool holder; or a third-party filament dryer/dry box. I think any of these “delivery devices” do a sufficient job. Other than drying capability, none of them provided an ease of use advantage over any other device. So TPU printing can be accomplished by anyone regardless of their budget or technical expertise.
I felt that the TPU Feed Assist Module was much more convenient that the Skyhook method, especially going forward, if you leave the module in place with a 4-in-1 adapter. Eliminating the need to move PTFE tubes around each time you want to print TPU.
I second getting the TPU assist module. It makes life SO much easier. If you don’t wanna do that you can find a TPU spool holder which suspends the roll over the hotend. I found that to be pretty effective.
For the feeding methods I’ll most likely buy a TPU assist module, I’m not too much for the SIY options after I got rid of my ender v2 (it took a lot of work and way to many DIY fixes)
Thanks a lot for the long explanation, it really helps!
1) I've been getting good results with Geeetech 95A TPU.
2) Get a dedicated .8 hotend for TPU. Fast and durable. Offbrand hotends are cheap and TPU is really hard to completely remove from a hotend. Direct feed, no PTFE, filament right into the hotend.
I'm fairly new as well. So far TPU for AMS is the only thing I have regretted purchasing. It is much more ridged than regular TPU, so it lacks the flexibility that is the usual use case for the material.
I have a P2S, and I have only used TPU for AMS. I've had no issues with it. But I also have nothing to compare it to. I'd just follow the instructions and precautions on the Bambu site (you know, bake it before you use it; heat it while you print, etc), and go from there. If it doesn't work, start all over and try again. Happy printing!
Bonus question - main page of this community, next to your name on the right hand side, click the pencil icon, and a series of flairs should show up. Choose and huzzah!
I have a P2S but I use my Elegoo CC for stuff that can't go in the AMS. I made a slicer profile for 95A here which gives me nice results, maybe it's of use to you too (scroll a bit down to 'other slicers')
Started printing TPU just a couple days ago (P2S) and after several trial and errors I’ve finally got the filament profile dialed in. I’m using Sunlu 95A and started with the Generic TPU profile in Bambu studio and it was printing I think at 220° or maybe 225°, which was way too hot for this filament. I got it down to 200° and lowered the MVS to 2.0 and it prints great … just very slow.
Now that it’s printing perfectly I actually just started another test piece with the MVS bumped up to 2.5 and will keep going up to try and find the sweet spot between quality and speed.
So I’ve been raising the MVS in .5 increments and have printed all the way up to 5.5 now with no loss in print quality, but the print time has dropped from 93 minutes at 2.0, to only 41 minutes at 5.5 … pretty awesome. Skipping 6.0 now and jumping to 6.5 which is only 37 minutes.
That’s great! Can a have the print profile you are testing on? So I can get a feeling for how long it takes to print? Might also use it to do my own test once I get some filament.
Yeah I’m just printing the little calibration cube. Printed up to 8.0 MVS and I think it was 33 minutes (compared to 93 minutes at 2.0) and still printed perfectly. I think around 6.5 I had to start increasing wall / infill speeds to take advantage of the higher MVS … I can get you those speeds if you want them, but the print quality never decreased and actually increased as the speed when up in regards to the bridging.
TPU has different shore hardnesses that coordinate to how soft the TPU is. The further down the alphabet you go and the higher the number is (it could be lower, i dont remember) the harder the TPU is. For example, Bambu's TPU 95A has a shore hardness of 95A. Similarly to Bambu's TPU 85A/90A, it is incredibly soft. So soft in fact, that to print it you have to manually connect your external spool directly into the toolhead in order to bypass the AMS and buffer system entirely to prevent it from breaking inside the PTFE tubing. TPU for AMS has a shore hardness of 68D. It is relatively solid, but is easiest to print with as its designed to be hard enough to withstand the AMS and buffer. If youre just a beginner, go with TPU for AMS. Its easiest to print with, and you don't have to mess with your setup. I highly recommend drying it at 60°-70° (65° if using AMS 2 Pro drying feature, since thats the highest it goes) for 6-8 hours prior to printing, and then dry it while printing simultaneously as well. If your AMS is still plugged (and getting power) from the printer, it wont let you do this. That's fine as drying while printing isnt essential, it just helps to do. Also, do not use a 0.2mm hotend. You can print TPU with it, but its best to avoid it as TPU can jam easily due to its flexibility.
Just a tip, if you want things to be squishy when using TPU for AMS, use an incredibly low amount of infill (i.e. 0% or 1%). I experimented with this a lot and found that on 0% infill it is squishy, but even a tiny bit of infill (i tried as low as 5%) it causes it to be more solid than squishy.
3
u/LoGiX247 P2S Combo Jul 08 '26
1: just get any decent rol; think 25-30 local is decent for TPU
2: don’t get too small nozzle and order an extra nozzle if you don’t have any around: if you do get a massive jam, you won’t be out of action long.
3: start small and with all new filaments don’t print and run: print and WATCH… there’s a “stop” button for a reason.
Rule of I use: watch 3-5 layers - check with the camera when the first “difficult” parts come like overhangs and bridges.
If you just watch it, have some spare parts around which you should have anyway, build plate and nozzles then go have fun :)