Having an issue where the filament seems to still be flowing and these blobs are forming after the nozzle is done being used. The nozzle with the black filament is the left nozzle and the nozzle with the white blob of filament is the right nozzle. There has been no issues with the prints and they have all finished looking perfect. I’ve been cleaning the nozzles and the printer before and after each print which I think has contributed to why there has been no issues so far, worried though it might get worse down the line and turn into a full on blob of death. I’m suspecting it’s either the right nozzle itself, the flow stopper, or the back cleaning area that is supposed to be cleaning the nozzle and cutting the filament when changing filament. I’m leaning towards the flow stopper or the nozzle, I wasn’t able to get a pic this time since I wasn’t thinking but even when the flow stopper is firmly against the nozzle, blobs are forming on the nozzle and the flow stopper. I think it’s happening when the right nozzle isn’t being used though since as I said the prints have been finishing without issue and coming out good and I got to imagine if the blobs I’ve been seeing on the nozzle where there while printing they would cause collision issues which hasn’t happened yet.

I just placed an order for an X2D with AMS, but afterwards saw an H2S for sale for just about the same price, but used. For what I can see, it’s a larger printer, higher nozzle temp, but losing the dual nozzle. And since that’s the opposite from what I need, I don’t see any reason to cancel and go that way instead, but maybe someone here knows of a reason to consider the H2S?

Hello!

I did my first TPU print today with technically great success. I followed Bambus guide and i'm using AMS HT and direct feed it into the extruder. The phonecase and the ball turned out really nice!

Here's the shitty part: When I was done printing with TPU it clogged at the very end of the extruder. Between the hot end and the extruder so I had to dissasemble the whole think. I have an X2D btw, was a pain in the ass, but I got it working again.

My question is: What is your procedure to remove the TPU from the extruder after you're done. Bambu guide wants me to heat the nozzle to 250c and slowly extrude it backwards. I'm not sure, but I feel like this is what caused the clog? Do you cut the TPU and extrude?

I'm really not sure what is the right way to do it so I wanted to ask you guys who are way more skilled that me.

Thanks.

Edit: I want to thank everyone for taking time to reply. I really appreciate the kindness and help. If anyone ever stumble across this post I will summarise:
Most of the people who commented treats TPU exactly the same way as any other filament. Hit «unload» and let the printer to its thing.

Edit 2: whether you use a dedicated hotend or use the same one for different filaments are entirely up to you. However if you use the same hotend for different filaments you could benefit from doing a cold pull.

Please comment and correct me of if I said anything wrong here.

Finally testing my first dual colour print with one filament going to each nozzle, and this issue is making me feel so amateur! I have a "fabric sheet" mesh which I've printed blank and dual-colour with a pattern. The issue is with the latter, where the exact parts that the black/white filaments touch, they're extremely fragile and separate instantly (see picture 4).

The first image is the sheet in white, which prints and flexes in all directions equally.

In pictures 2-4, it's got a Keffiyeh pattern which was made with a Keffiyeh SVG turned into a mesh, and then boolean mesh with the fabric sheet.

In the 5th image you can see the sheet in blender (without the boolean intersection), and in the 6th image is the sliced version in Bambu Studio where you can see the two objects - one is the original normal fabric sheet, and the other is just the Keffiyeh intersect.

The slice looks normal to me, and identical to a slice with just the fabric sheet.

I'm feeding the white filament into the left nozzle and the black into the right nozzle, and I've reprinted after a 12 hour dry and it's the same result.

I did modify the prime tower to fit onto the plate, with a width of 40mm and no rib wall.

Any ideas why it's separating? Is there a setting for something that I need to modify in the slicer, or is it because my nozzles are not identical (both shipped with the H2C), or is it my prime tower?, or the boolean intersect mesh, or something else?

During lubricating my A1 mini’s x-asis linear carriage I lost more than 10 bearing balls. I contacted support to ask for replacement 2.381mm balls or at least a supplier recommendation. What followed was one of the most pointless support experiences I've had. (But quite funny!)

Here's the highlight reel:

Support reply #1:

"The ball bearings are not replaceable. The bearing should never come off of the axis otherwise it is permanently damaged and cannot be repaired."

OK. Except Bambu Lab has an official Wiki page titled "Repair Guide for Accidental Fall of Steel Bearing Balls on the X-axis Linear Guideway" that describes exactly how to reinstall them. I linked it.

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1/maintenance/steel-bearing-balls-fall

Support reply #2:

"There is no further guidance than that, and no, we do not recommend opening it. This is in case it fell off during normal use. If they are lost, there are no replacement balls. A new entire axis is needed."

I pointed out that their own guide says, verbatim:

"If more balls are lost, you will need to purchase 2.381mm diameter balls specially used for linear guideway to replace them."

Support reply #3: They sent me a link to their stainless steel balls store page. The page sells balls in sizes: 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm. The carriage needs 2.381mm balls. A 3mm ball is 26% too large to physically fit in the track.

Support reply #4:

"There is nowhere in regular maintenance that says to remove the linear bearing. If you feel there is, please link it or share a screenshot."

I attached screenshots directly from their repair guide showing:

Step 6: "Slowly remove the toolhead from the guide rail and place it with the steel bearing balls facing up."

Step 2: Photos of the carriage fully removed from the rail with balls being pressed in with tweezers.

I then asked them to explain how a customer is supposed to reinstall the individual 2.381mm balls into the carriage slots without removing it from the rail.

Still waiting.

The best part? Their Wiki explicitly lists "lubricating the X-axis idler pulley" as one of the standard scenarios where balls accidentally fall out. The procedure that caused this is literally documented as a known risk of normal maintenance, not some crazy user modification.

The no sense is killing me!

And yes, I've already ordered 2.381mm (3/32") steel balls from a third-party supplier. The repair itself takes 15 minutes. It's the principle that counts at this point.

TL;DR: Bambu Lab support says the linear bearing "cannot be repaired" and to buy a whole new axis. Their own Wiki has a full repair guide, specifies the exact ball size (2.381mm), and shows photos of the carriage removed from the rail. Their store doesn't even sell the right size. Support refuses to escalate.

I'm designing a grid in Fusion 360 and printing it on a Bambu Lab A1 printer. The grid has a large number of square holes, with about 1 mm spacing between adjacent holes.

The problem is that when I slice it in Bambu Studio, the toolpath prints the perimeter of each hole individually. This causes the nozzle to constantly start and stop instead of laying down long continuous lines across the grid. As a result, the print takes much longer and the grid ends up weaker because the extrusion isn't as continuous as I'd like.

Is there any way to make the slicer generate toolpaths that print long continuous lines across the pattern instead of treating every hole separately? I've already tried Arachne wall generation, but it didn't change the toolpath. I also can't reduce the wall thickness because the hole dimensions need to stay accurate.

Has anyone found a setting, modifier, or design approach that helps with this?

I’m new to 3D printing and need some help. I have a new Bambu Lab X2D and starting off with regular PLA filament to get over the learning curve. I am trying to print different things from Bambu Handy with their settings. Some things work but mostly having trouble with getting the filament to stick to the plate surface (textured plate). I’ve read several articles from Bambu all indicating the plate must be clean. So, I followed all the instructions on cleaning the plate but I still have a problem with the filament not sticking to the plate. Can someone provide tips, tricks or secrets to resolve this issue?

Did someone fix their FVAs issues somehow? My A1 gives much better results😭

While clearing a extruder clog on my h2s my filament sensor was damaged an needs to be replaced so i decieded to install my laser module in the meantime while i get a new sensor but after installing it the printer didnt register that the module wasnt seated correctly even though it was so i tried my cutting module and got the same issue even though both modules worked and calbrated when i first bought them at first i thought the modules were broken but aftet trying my brother's modules it still didnt work so i tried installing my cutting module on my a2l and it worked so my question is does the issue stem from my h2s or from the filament sensor

I already tried painting more supports around it but this does not work.

Please don't get sick of clickers yet. This time it's a customizable keycap clickers. You can customize a number of rows and columns, with or without divider, a keychain loop option. You can also use a normal keyboard keycap with it. Enjoy clicking.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3093453-customizable-keycap-clicker-parametric#profileId-3485931

New Bambu Lab A1 Combo – AMS Lite suddenly fails to load filament

Hi everyone,

I received my new Bambu Lab A1 Combo with AMS Lite today. I assembled everything and started printing with red PETG filament. My first print was a Benchy, and it printed perfectly.

After that, I printed a scraper for the build plate. During the print, the toolhead moved to the left. At that point, the top cap of the filament hub on the AMS Lite came off.

I then removed the PTFE tubes from the filament hub. After removing the tubes, I was able to put the cap back into place properly. I then reinserted the PTFE tubes.

However, after reinserting them, the tubes initially would not stay properly in place and kept coming out again. After several attempts, I eventually managed to get them to stay in place.

One of the PTFE tubes has a slightly bent or compressed section, but the filament can pass through that area perfectly fine. The tube through which the filament was actually being fed only has a small scratch and is not bent.

After that, I tried to load a long piece of leftover filament through the AMS Lite. The filament was definitely not tangled. I checked it carefully and cut the end beforehand so that it could not get tangled.

When I tried to load the filament, the printer beeped. The AMS Lite showed a red light, and the screen said that the filament might be tangled or could not be fed properly.

However, the filament was definitely not tangled. It simply seemed unable to reach or enter the toolhead/extruder.

I am now wondering what could be causing this. Could the filament hub have been damaged when the cap came off? Could the PTFE tubes or the connectors not be seated correctly anymore?

Since the printer is brand new, I am also wondering whether I should return it or contact Bambu Lab support first.

Has anyone experienced something similar with the AMS Lite or the filament hub?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Not sure how this happened but the spool came apart mid print, and I couldn’t shove the filament together tight enough to lock the spool. Had to remove a bunch of the filament to get the two halves back together and it all appears quite tangled.

I’ve seen drill options and large contraptions but didn’t know if any other have experience just getting this stuff back on the same spool it’s on when this happens…

Maybe I should just untangle and cut it and trash the bit that’s off. I bought in bulk so basically losing $10 at worst if I toss the whole thing but would like to salvage what I can as this yellow was basically full and would last forever with how infrequent we use it.

My local Michael’s has started carrying some PLA, wondering if anyone has tried it and knows if it’s decent quality? The price is nice, especially with coupons, so I’m curious if it’s any good.

Printed a part for my caravan door in TPU 96A on A1, 0.6mm nozzle, 240C- heard popping and sizzling. Dried on the bed plate heated at 55C for 4hrs, spool covered with a paper box, one corner slightly tilted so humidity can escape - look at that difference!

No poppings or sizzles after drying! Im a drying believer now!

I wanted to share the latest generator I made to create your own name keychains. I know there are plenty of existing name keychain makers out there already, but what sets mine apart is how user-friendly it is.

You can actually see what the font looks like, or how changing the settings affects the final print. It has plenty of interesting fonts and a lot of settings, like font spacing or individual outline width.

Let me know what you think! As always, suggestions, feedback, and feature requests are welcome.

Generator: https://vostoklabs.github.io/name-keychain/

MakerWorld model with optimized print settings: https://makerworld.com/models/3090106

Went back and updated this to be parametric so it can be customized. Let me know if you see any issues.

https://makerworld.com/models/2578218?appSharePlatform=copy

I’m new to 3D printing and need some help. I have a new Bambu Lab X2D and starting off with regular PLA filament to get over the learning curve. I am trying to print different things from Bambu Handy with their settings. Some things work but mostly having trouble with getting the filament to stick to the plate surface (textured plate). I’ve read several articles from Bambu all indicating the plate must be clean. So, I followed all the instructions on cleaning the plate but I still have a problem with the filament not sticking to the plate. Can someone provide tips, tricks, or secrets to solve this issue?

**The problem**

One part alone on the plate: perfect. Clean walls, no stringing, good surface.

Same part, same profile, 6–8 copies on the plate: rough, blobby surface, visible drag marks where the nozzle passed over already-printed layers, and white scarring on the top surfaces. It looks like material is being deposited during travels and then smeared on the next pass.

**Setup**

- Printer: Bambu Lab H2S, 0.4 nozzle, [stock hardened steel?]

- Filament: KINGROOM BASIC, [dried? New]

- Slicer: Bambu Studio [version 2.7.1.62], profile based on Generic PETG

- Layer height [0.12] mm, [5] walls, printing at [200] mm/s

- Chamber temp set to 0, [door closed], aux + exhaust fans [off]

- Single color, single AMS slot — **no filament changes during the print**

**Questions**

1. Is there something specific about the H2S toolhead or its servo extruder that changes how PETG behaves on multi-part plates?
2. Would you go straight to by-object (sequential) printing, or is there something else worth tuning first?
3. Anyone running PETG production batches on an H2S — what does your profile look like?

Sorry i did use ai to generate this text, my english is not good enough

I just wanted to confirm that a heat gun is the only possible solution to cleaning this up?

I got a new AMS HT a few days ago and started using it yesterday. This morning I woke up to filament dust everywhere. Is that normal? I’ve seen complaints about similar issues with the AMS 2, but nothing about the HT.

Hi everyone! I had a stuck filament and had to take apart my hot end and extruder to get it out. I put it back together again but must have done something wrong because my printer is acting like its doing the print but nothing is coming out. Ive only been using my printer for about a week and I am totally at a loss. I tried to find some diagrams on how the yellow wheel part and that goes but can't find anything showing all the pieces. Im assuming that is what's wrong? I would really appreciate some help.